Question Cooler Master ARGB ecosystem

[_D3vThoR]

I wanted to give other 5 more years to my case, a Cooler Master MasterCase H500, as I still like it and I don't want to waste money and purchasing a new case since this one is still very functional. But since it has a slot for 2 big fans in front (200mm) I still want to keep this setup and so the only viable options for having ARGB fans are the Cooler Master SickleFlow ARGB 200mm. Considering every brand have its own ARGB technology and also the way they reproduce colors (the red for CM is not the exact same as the red as Corsair for example), I wanted to keep everything within the same brand and create a sort of ecosystem with everything Cooler Master.

First of all, my MoBo isn't ARGB compatible, I have an MSI Mortar Titanium micro-atx, and has only jrgb connectors, in this case I need something that makes all the ARGB fans working and configured within my OS.

I was thinking about getting these pieces:

2x Cooler Master SickleFlow ARGB 102.8 CFM 200 mm Fan - For the front panel of the case
1x Cooler Master MasterFan MF Halo 47.2 CFM 120 mm - For the rear of the case
1x Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240 Illusion Liquid - As AIO for my upcoming Ryzen 9 5900x CPU

Question 1: Are these pieces good? I really like the aesthetics of the Halo fans, so I decided this combination.
Question 2: How can I make the ARGB working and configurable within my OS without having any external controller (such as a remote controller or something similar)?
Question 3: If the Q2 is achievable, can I use a software like OpenRGB instead of the proprietary Cooler Master software, being notoriously terrible?
Question 4: Do you suggest connecting the Fans (not the ARGB connector) directly into the MoBo connectors, and keeping them separately, or instead connecting even them to the same controller?

 

[Paperdoc]

Q1: I cannot make a useful comment.

Q2: You MUST have an ARGB Controller to power and control the ARGB lights in the fan frames. Since the mobo has none, you must use a separate third-party one. If you want to stay in the "Cooler Master Environment", their better unit is the Addressable RGB LED Controller. This needs power input from a PSU SATA power output and a cable connected to a mobo USB2 header. You do NOT need to connect to this Controller any cable from a mobo JRGB header. On ONE side it has four sockets for ARGB connectors from your fan and pump lights. Then you must use their free software utility MasterPlus+. With that you use screen and keyboard to configure the lighting display. That uses the USB cable to communicate with the Controller.

Q3. Trying to use a different third-party software tool with this Controller is risky. You are better with the MasterPlus+ software. HOWEVER, there are other makers of third-party separate ARGB controllers with their own software. You CAN use such because the connectors and electrical details of the lights in those fans are "Standard ARGB" so any "Standard" controller will do the job. I do find that there are not many makers of Controllers like that available, though. Razer comes to mind.

An ARGB Controller will NOT have a fan MOTOR hub system, There are some devices that include both a fan motor hub and an ARGB lighting hub in one box, but many are not "Standard" and useful only with their maker's proprietary fans. You do not need that. Get a Controller for the ARGB lights alone. Note that the LIGHTING cable from the AIO system should go to this controller, too. Then work on how to connect each fan's motor somewhere. For the CASE Ventilation Fans your mobo has three SYS_FAN headers, and you can use those for your three fans. But note one detail. In BIOS Setup for that mobo these fan headers are set by default to the older DC Mode. Change that for each header to PWM Mode for your fans. Otherwise set all three the same ensuring they are using the general System temperature sensor on the mobo, and not the CPU temp.

For the AIO system you will have TWO connections to make for motors - one for the Pump, and another for the Rad Fans. Ideally BOTH of these should be connected to the CPU_FAN header so their actions are controlled by the temperture sensor inside the CPU chip. The AIO system manual shows them connected to different mobo headers and you do not have that. So here's how. Get a simple Splitter like this (example)

https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Splitter-Sleeved-Extension/dp/B07FNL8YCZ/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=3P1PTYMP7GBR6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.KAgiCJfcF_3LSdySoPQylP72TtjDcMloUjkrpYjwu5qLiA0KQBGAu_GS7jQK9yCHnIDui4z4UpbY3oGiCBChdGbNOqUDr7rISn7PXjciUfnjCafU_IuKQiy7KMgKL5-9gylsTf7CJ70zQ3APV14vCoA9Gk7_T_RfZ3c8wXtBKAwPMLrSHQ-aOdjNr5JG0H2EsDa4-3CoAeR2VJFexdbAP9UnAGvSjB9qqLatFLiaA3k.0dPPw9J8Plc2xNVzdXCnDI2v2KM7AhQvsJ9PvNqPum4&dib_tag=se&keywords=4-pin+splitter+pwm&qid=1744045937&sprefix=4-pin+splitter+,aps,120&sr=8-17-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&th=1

Note that a Splitter is simple with only two types of connections. It has ONE cable with a female connector to go to your CPU_FAN header. Then it has outputs (three on this model) for plugging in fan motors. Do NOT get a fan HUB, which can look very similar but has an extra third type of connection cable that goes to a PSU power output. ALSO note that among the Spliter's outputs only ONE of them has all four puins in it, and the others are missing Pin #3. This is the way they SHOULD be made, so ignore user complaints about that. A mobo header can deal with the speed signal sent back to it via Pin #3 of only ONE fan. So the Splitter does that for only one output, and ignores the speeds of other fans by NOT making contact with them by the missing Pin #3. In use, you MUST plug the PUMP connector into the only output with all pins, because the CPU_FAN header will monitor that speed signal for possible failure. It is important that failure monitor watches the PUMP, and not the rad fans. Plug the two Rad Fans into the other outputs. You will never "see" those fan speeds anywhere, so from time to time YOU shuld just look and verify that those fans are still working.

Next, make SURE that you make this change in BIOS Setup for the CPU_FAN header. You will find an option fo the header signal MODE, with choices of DC or Voltage, PWM, and AUTO. Set to PWM, not DC or AUTO. When done this way, the PUMP will always receive a full 12 VDC power supply so it runs full speed as designed. The Rad FAns will receive and use the PWM signal to control their speeds, making them the ONLY device that varies to control CPU internal temperture.

 

[_D3vThoR]

Thank you so much @Paperdoc for your detailed answer, I really appreciate the time you took to write it down.
Before to consider any doubt sorted, I want to ask you confirmation about the ARGB controller you mentioned: is this one, correct? - https://www.coolermaster.com/en-global/products/argb-led-controller/

If that is the one you are talking about, so the proprietary one, I want to know how can I connect all the ARGB fans plus the pump of the AIO, because if I am doing the right math, I'll have a total of 5 fans (including the 2 of the AIO) and also the pump ARGB, which means I will have 6 ARGB connections to be covered. I don't think that controller can support 6 ARGB input, but if you can double check and confirm that would be great.

On contrary, if that controller cannot have 6 ARGB input, should I use a splitter like this one: https://www.coolermaster.com/en-global/products/argb-1-to-5-splitter-cable/. Even tho, I am not entirely sure about it.

And lastly, when we are talking about the fan connection of the AIO, please confirm if I did understand the connection you have mentioned by using the splitter you have linked:

- On the 4 pin header I will connect the pump
- On the two 3 pin headers I will connect both the fans of the AIO
- All of them, with the splitter linked by you, they will be connected to the header of the MoBo dedicated to the CPU_Fan

Is that correct, right? Sorry if I am asking these questions but is just to be sure I am doing the right thing and not wasting money but also not risking any integrity of the hardware.

 

[Paperdoc]

You got that ALL correct. Yes, you can use that 5-output ARGB Splitter to connect three fans' lighting cables to one Controller ARGB output port. Then the other three can go to individual Controller ports. I am not positive that one Controller output port can supply all the power for five fans' lights, so I'm being cautious here. But I am sure the Controller can power all six lighting units via several output ports. It gets all its power for those lights from the SATA power input direct from the PSU.

And yes, for the AIO MOTOR cables, the one from the PUMP should go to the Splitter output arm with all 4 pins (so the pump speed can be fed via Pin #3 to the header), and the two rad fans to the other outputs that are missing Pin #3 in each. The input arm of the Splitter goes to the CPU_FAN header, and that header must be set to use PWM Mode.

 

[_D3vThoR]

Amazing, thanks a lot! The only thing is to understand how to connect the 5 way splitter to the ARGB controller, because the controller has only female inputs, and the splitter has a female output as well. I guess in the box of the controller or maybe on the box of the fans there will be a male-to-male adapter for the ARGB cable, or some sort of it. Not sure they will sell it individually, don't they?

 

[Paperdoc]

Right again. If you look closely at the Manual sheet for that Controller, Section 3 shows drawings of all the INCLUDED cables and adapters and how to make connections. Among those are four male-to-male 3-pin ARGB adapters (Key B) that "convert" the Controller's female ARGB ports to males so you can then connect normal standard male cables from your fans.

There are several cables you will NOT use. They are designed for functions you cannot use or do not want to. By Key Letters in the drawing, these are:
C: Goes to a mobo ARGB header to take its signals to the Controller to send out. You do NOT have such a mobo header, hence need for this Controller.
F: Goes to a plain RGB mobo (4-pin) header to take its signals to the Controller. This would allow mobo control of LESS complex lighting displays by "translation" of those signals.
G: output to a plain RGB lighting unit (you do not have one)
H: Goes to Reset pins of the the mobo Front Panel header. This is part of re-purposing that case button for manual control (see Key I below). You will not use this.
I: Goes to your case Reset button so you can use that to MANUALLY change the lighting displays. You will use the MasterPlus+ software instead.
J: Goes to the mobo CPU_FAN header and CPU cooler system solely to allow this Controller to show you that cooler system's speed via MasterPlus+ software. You do not need the minor feature - that speed is available elsewhere.
K: A temperture sensor you do not need.

You DO need to connect the E cable to a mobo USB2 port for commmunioication betwwwen this Controller and the MasterPlus+ software. Then you use a SATA power output connector on wires from the PSU into the SATA socket on one end of the Controller, and the fan lighting cables (ubcluding the ARGB Splitter) into the four ARGB outputs using the adapters.

 

[_D3vThoR]

Thank you again @Paperdoc, you have been extremely helpful and very informative. I'll proceed and purchasing all the hardware linked above. Cheers!