[SOLVED] Corsair CX750m for RTX 2080 Super?

Jlg823

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I've know a few people using this power supply, so the question for me is not whether it works or should I do it, it's about the 6+2 PCIE connector. The RTX 2080 Super of course has two 8 pins. Now, should I use the ONE wire which splits into TWO 6+2 Pins for the GPU or should I plug in another wire and only use one 6+2 Pin on each wire? I've seen some stuff around about not wanting to use a split cable and all but I'm curious how big of a deal this is etc.
 
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The old green label CXm's were pretty bad actually. I wouldn't be surprised if that is why your 1080 died. The new grey labels are the decent ones. Either get a 2070 super, and a proper, quality, power supply, or get the 2080s, and be without a PC, until you get said quality power supply.
I'd recommend, at the very least, the RM750 over the CX, much more reliable and better efficiency (gold vs bronze), for a similar price. My RM came with multiple PCIe connectors, each with two 8-pin endings.

After a bit of research, it looks like the main difference between using the split and using 2 separate cables is heat generation. It's not likely that you'll have any noticeable performance drops. However, because the PSU comes with more than one of these cables, you can try just one cable first, and add another if it really needs it. This will add some clutter and possibly effect airflow though, which could have a greater impact on performance depending on how the cables are managed.
 
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Jlg823

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Concur with others - a CX is generally a budget PSU, even at the higher wattages. Going with a TX, RM, HX, or AX Corsair, you can probably easily get away with a 650W, unless going with one of Intel's high-end CPUs.
I'd recommend, at the very least, the RM750 over the CX, much more reliable and better efficiency (gold vs bronze), for a similar price. My RM came with multiple PCIe connectors, each with two 8-pin endings.

After a bit of research, it looks like the main difference between using the split and using 2 separate cables is heat generation. It's not likely that you'll have any noticeable performance drops. However, because the PSU comes with more than one of these cables, you can try just one cable first, and add another if it really needs it. This will add some clutter and possibly effect airflow though, which could have a greater impact on performance depending on how the cables are managed.
I wouldnt pair a 2080 Super with a budget tier PSU.
6+2 cables are fine. Most power supplies have them, vs just a 8 pin pci-e. Is that an orange label, or grey label?

Reasoning behind me mainly trying to keep the same CX750m (green label) that I've had for a long time is because I do not having the extra funds to buy a new power supply if I buy a new GPU. Spending almost $100 for a new PSU isn't really an option atm. To just semi-explain my situation, my current GPU went RIP and no longer works at all. I've tried pretty much everything within reason to fix it. It was a GTX1080 and if I were to get a RTX 2080 Super, I wouldn't be able to afford a new PSU due to my current financial situation. Thank you all for the replies and I'll see what I can do. Though I've gotta ask, would it still be okay to use the CX750m assuming I do NOT plan on overclocking until I get a new PSU.
 

King_V

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Reasoning behind me mainly trying to keep the same CX750m (green label) that I've had for a long time is because I do not having the extra funds to buy a new power supply if I buy a new GPU. Spending almost $100 for a new PSU isn't really an option atm. To just semi-explain my situation, my current GPU went RIP and no longer works at all. I've tried pretty much everything within reason to fix it. It was a GTX1080 and if I were to get a RTX 2080 Super, I wouldn't be able to afford a new PSU due to my current financial situation. Thank you all for the replies and I'll see what I can do. Though I've gotta ask, would it still be okay to use the CX750m assuming I do NOT plan on overclocking until I get a new PSU.

What CPU do you have?


Two things to note:
1 - From the first link in my sig:
The orange and black label VS models and the green and black label CX models should be avoided. Completely. Currently we just cannot justify using one of these units. The track record is terrible and if you have one, especially if it is more than a year old, it is probably either already failing or if you are having problems, is likely the reason why.
So, I'm surprised it's lasted thus far.

But, also
2 - It is wrong to say you do not have the budget for the PSU. You do NOT have the budget for the 2080 Super UNTIL you can afford a high-quality PSU. You do not want to gamble your expensive graphics card (not to mention CPU and motherboard) on a low-quality power supply. Get the PSU FIRST! No exceptions!
 

logainofhades

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The old green label CXm's were pretty bad actually. I wouldn't be surprised if that is why your 1080 died. The new grey labels are the decent ones. Either get a 2070 super, and a proper, quality, power supply, or get the 2080s, and be without a PC, until you get said quality power supply.
 
Solution
The old green label CXm's were pretty bad actually. I wouldn't be surprised if that is why your 1080 died. The new grey labels are the decent ones. Either get a 2070 super, and a proper, quality, power supply, or get the 2080s, and be without a PC, until you get said quality power supply.

I agree with you. But I thought the green CXs were dumpster fire but the green CXm's were decent budget PSU's. I also remember that the green CXm quality depended on what wattage you got.

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/03/02/corsair-cx750m-750w-power-supply/
 

Jlg823

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What CPU do you have?


Two things to note:
1 - From the first link in my sig:

So, I'm surprised it's lasted thus far.

But, also
2 - It is wrong to say you do not have the budget for the PSU. You do NOT have the budget for the 2080 Super UNTIL you can afford a high-quality PSU. You do not want to gamble your expensive graphics card (not to mention CPU and motherboard) on a low-quality power supply. Get the PSU FIRST! No exceptions!
i7-7700k is the CPU I have, so what PSU would you recommend in this situation? I see a lot of good things about Seasonic and with a RTX 2080 Super + my i7, would it be better to get a 650w or 750w? For hypothetical specs:
i7-7700k
Asus Z270 TUF Mark 2
16GB DDR4 2400mhz RAM
MSI TRIO RTX 2080 Super
 

Phaaze88

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It is wrong to say you do not have the budget for the PSU. You do NOT have the budget for the 2080 Super UNTIL you can afford a high-quality PSU. You do not want to gamble your expensive graphics card (not to mention CPU and motherboard) on a low-quality power supply. Get the PSU FIRST! No exceptions!
If I earned a quarter for every time someone neglected the psu over an upgrade, I'd be damn rich right now...

i7-7700k is the CPU I have, so what PSU would you recommend in this situation? I see a lot of good things about Seasonic and with a RTX 2080 Super + my i7, would it be better to get a 650w or 750w? For hypothetical specs:
i7-7700k
Asus Z270 TUF Mark 2
16GB DDR4 2400mhz RAM
MSI TRIO RTX 2080 Super
RM650X or Focus Plus Gold 650 is fine for that system, with the exception that you don't change to something like a 9900K later and overclock it, then you MIGHT need a 750w.
 
The old green label CXm's were pretty bad actually. I wouldn't be surprised if that is why your 1080 died. The new grey labels are the decent ones. Either get a 2070 super, and a proper, quality, power supply, or get the 2080s, and be without a PC, until you get said quality power supply.

Man.... You guys really need to research before responding. ;-)

The 750W only had one version. It was the CX650M and lower that had differences between green label and gray.

It's always been based off of the CWT PUQ-B.
 
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I agree with you. But I thought the green CXs were dumpster fire but the green CXm's were decent budget PSU's. I also remember that the green CXm quality depended on what wattage you got.

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/03/02/corsair-cx750m-750w-power-supply/

Actually, the CX is better than the CX-M because the CX is newer and uses a newer platform.

And you're right, the CX-M is good/bad based on wattage.

Cheat sheet: http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16610-Corsair-CX-and-CX-M-quot-cheat-sheet-quot
 

King_V

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Actually, the CX is better than the CX-M because the CX is newer and uses a newer platform.

And you're right, the CX-M is good/bad based on wattage.

Cheat sheet: http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16610-Corsair-CX-and-CX-M-quot-cheat-sheet-quot

Wait, so, the older green CX750M was decent? Or am I misunderstanding/misreading? From the cheat sheet, I'm seeing the lower temperature rating, and lesser warranty than the newer gray CX750M.

(also, adding the cheat sheet to my sig...)
 
Wait, so, the older green CX750M was decent? Or am I misunderstanding/misreading? From the cheat sheet, I'm seeing the lower temperature rating, and lesser warranty than the newer gray CX750M.

(also, adding the cheat sheet to my sig...)
The green CX 750 M is based on the newer PUQ-B platform, unlike the other green CX Ms. It's a decent PSU that I'd say would safely run a 2080 S. It's not the best, though. The grey CX 750 M is a bit better than the green.
 
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Wait, so, the older green CX750M was decent? Or am I misunderstanding/misreading? From the cheat sheet, I'm seeing the lower temperature rating, and lesser warranty than the newer gray CX750M.

(also, adding the cheat sheet to my sig...)

I actually need to confirm that temperature rating. I believe that the CX750M might have always been 40C rated.

Here's the back story: CX-M was only up to 650W. Then sales said they needed a 750W and 850W. Those were created by leveraging PUQ-B. Very shortly after that, Corsair went through a CX-M refresh for the lower wattages as well as a rebranding (new sails logo, get rid of the colors, etc.).

AFAIK: There's no difference between any of the CX750M and CX850M PSUs. There's only ever been one PRD and I have no record of a BOM change other than swapping out the MOSFETs for Infineon in 2017.
 
Corsair, you need to work on your naming conventions!!!

Nope. They'll always recycle model series names because they want to leverage the high quantity of product reviews at sites like Amazon, Newegg, etc.

New product name means fresh start on the end user reviews. So if you have a product that has zero reviews on launch day, sales are going to be really slow for a very long time.
 

OllympianGamer

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If you have the extra power cable available dont daisy chain them. I tested 2 vs 1 cable with a vega 56 and there was a slight decrease in its max boost clock, the theory being increase in heat increases resistance in the cable. I'm not sure if it's the same with nvidia as you cant increase the power to the card by 50% (AMD lol).
 

Ij6969

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I've know a few people using this power supply, so the question for me is not whether it works or should I do it, it's about the 6+2 PCIE connector. The RTX 2080 Super of course has two 8 pins. Now, should I use the ONE wire which splits into TWO 6+2 Pins for the GPU or should I plug in another wire and only use one 6+2 Pin on each wire? I've seen some stuff around about not wanting to use a split cable and all but I'm curious how big of a deal this is etc.
[/QUOT
you should be completely fine with that 750w I have my rtx 2080ti on an Sfx 450w unit for my mini itx build