Question Do Power Chord Specs Matter?

[grady115]

I need a replacement power chord for my PC. I have a Thermalright Toughpower GF A3 1050w PSU. I have written to Thermalright requesting a new chord, but they have not replied. I have search Amazon and Newegg but there are so many options. Do the specs matter when buying a new chord? I mean amps and volts of the chord? AWG, etc. Any suggestions where and what I can buy?

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Thermlaright don't make PSU's...you meant Thermaltake and I hope you've sent an email to Thermaltake and not Thermalright.

All you need to do is buy the same set of cables that are meant for your exact PSU, instead of buying cables that seem to have the right connectors since not all PSU's have the same pinout. 17~18AWG is the gauge of wire in case you want to fabricate your own cables and have the right connectors in hand.

 

[DSzymborski]

I need a replacement power chord for my PC. I have a Thermalright Toughpower GF A3 1050w PSU. I have written to Thermalright requesting a new chord, but they have not replied. I have search Amazon and Newegg but there are so many options. Do the specs matter when buying a new chord? I mean amps and volts of the chord? AWG, etc. Any suggestions where and what I can buy?

*Which* power cord? There are like a dozen cables that connect to this PSU, all of which transfer power from one location to another.

 

[grady115]

Yes, I meant Themaltake.

And I am talking about the AC power chord that plugs into the wall. I thought that would have been clear when I said "POWER" chord. All the other (CABLES) are not power chords, they are cables. I've never heard it called a PCIe chord? Or a SATA chord? You?

 

[punkncat]

See if you can locate something with a gauge at 18 or lower, according to length, to go from the wall to the power supply. This absolutely does matter. It is a direct correlation between power hungry computers and such as using power tools on a long cord. You cannot run a circular saw on the same thin gauge wire that Christmas lights would be fine on.

In my own case I not only upgraded the outlet that my main battery backup is plugged into, but due to the layout constraints I selected large gauge wire plug strips and/or extension cords. I also upgraded the breaker for that one outlet. My home has a basement/crawl and quite opportune that the AC unit had to be replaced, and a new circuit ran where the old one was left in place and able to be repurposed.

 

[grady115]

See if you can locate something with a gauge at 18 or lower, according to length, to go from the wall to the power supply. This absolutely does matter. It is a direct correlation between power hungry computers and such as using power tools on a long cord. You cannot run a circular saw on the same thin gauge wire that Christmas lights would be fine on.

In my own case I not only upgraded the outlet that my main battery backup is plugged into, but due to the layout constraints I selected large gauge wire plug strips and/or extension cords. I also upgraded the breaker for that one outlet. My home has a basement/crawl and quite opportune that the AC unit had to be replaced, and a new circuit ran where the old one was left in place and able to be repurposed.

Thank you,

Most of the ones I have found on Amazon are 18 gauge, however they have amps and volts associated with them. Does that matter based on the PSU I am using? Would you know what amps and volts I should be looking for, for a 1050 watt PSU?

 

[grady115]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Thermlaright don't make PSU's...you meant Thermaltake and I hope you've sent an email to Thermaltake and not Thermalright.

All you need to do is buy the same set of cables that are meant for your exact PSU, instead of buying cables that seem to have the right connectors since not all PSU's have the same pinout. 17~18AWG is the gauge of wire in case you want to fabricate your own cables and have the right connectors in hand.

Yes, lol, I meant Thermaltake. Been making that goof for years. I was referring to the AC power chord that plugs into the wall. Not the cables that connect to the mobo.

 

[punkncat]

Thank you,

Most of the ones I have found on Amazon are 18 gauge, however they have amps and volts associated with them. Does that matter based on the PSU I am using? Would you know what amps and volts I should be looking for, for a 1050 watt PSU?

Most homes in the US are going to be "120VAC15A" wall outlets. The 15A aspect is directly related to the breaker installed on most standard wall outlets and in relation to the gauges of Romex wire being run to them. Some will be 20A but that is often in relation to an expected large appliance installed for that breaker.

The label on the side of your power supply should spell out exactly what it is running and help with the decision towards an appropriate size.

 

[wwenze1]

The amps matter of course. I've seen IEC cables rated for as low as 3A up to the usual 13A in my British standard country.

Check the connector for any marking of current and voltage rating - both the AC side and the IEC side

Dig up your old boxes and find the biggest amp you can (15A for USA's NEMA 5-15) and you can safely use any device that uses that connector.

The volts rating kind of matter but not really but ultimately does. The voltage rating of the connector is decided by the standard and design and the country's electrical code so if you buy a AC power cable in a country that uses 125V NEMA (again using USA as example) you won't find any cable rated for 250V. And since you won't find shops selling power cables for other countrys' AC standards either this becomes a non-issue.

 

[DSzymborski]

Yes, I meant Themaltake.

And I am talking about the AC power chord that plugs into the wall. I thought that would have been clear when I said "POWER" chord. All the other (CABLES) are not power chords, they are cables. I've never heard it called a PCIe chord? Or a SATA chord? You?

If you're going to angrily argue word definitions in response to a question I asked you in order to get missing information for the purpose of helping you...

This is a chord:

Best of luck to you.

 

[faalin]

Amazon

6 foot 14 AWG Thats about as big of gauge wire as your going to get without changing plug ends for a 20 amp cord.

 

[grady115]

*Which* power cord? There are like a dozen cables that connect to this PSU, all of which transfer power from one location to another.

You started it with your patronizing reply.

 

[Misgar]

The connector on the back of most ATX power supplies sold in the UK is an EN 60320 -1 IEC C14 Class I Cold Condition connector, rated at 10A 250V. The mating connector on the flying lead/cord/cable/et al, is an IEC C13 with the same rating.
https://standards.globalspec.com/std/14478346/en-iec-60320-1

Interestingly, for USA and Canada, the UL/CSA rating for C13 and C14 connectors increases to 15A 250V. Where they get this extra 50% current rating from I don't know. Perhaps one set of standards is more relaxed, due to operating at 120V most of the time.

Thus in the UK, the cross sectional area of the conductors needs to be rated at 10A maximum, but I guess in the States and Canada, it might have to be 15A.

In case you're wondering, a Hot Condition C15/C16 plug/socket combination is the type of connector used in appliances that get hot, e.g. some electric kettles. Note the cut out to prevent idiots plugging a Cold Connector into a hot appliance and "melting" the connector. People who call computer leads "kettle" leads don't know what they're talking about (end of rant).

And finally, you can argue semantics as to what to call the bendy stuff between the two connectors, depending on what country you live in.