Question FAT Playstation 2 SCPH 30000 PC Build Progress thus far

[reaper89971]

Well i got my Power supply Professionally Moddified and mounted into the case.
The Power supply is a HDPLEX HIFI DC-ATX 500 watt with the Modular ports removed and wires soldered in.
The shielding/heat sink has been removed. I used MG chemicals thermally conductive epoxy to glue some heat sinks onto the surface mount Mosfets
I have 4 24v 35mm fans blowing at it and a 92mm fan blowing beneath it to help keep it cool.
I used at 16 gauge 8 pin connector rated at 600v for the input connector.

I epoxy puttied 2 ATX Switches into the case. It isn't that pretty, well the whole case isn't that pretty but it will work.
i have my stand offs mounted into the case for the motherboard and power supply. The case has been painted Red and Gray

https://imgur.com/a/7JUvlIb

View: https://imgur.com/a/7JUvlIb

This will be a i9 PS2

 

[reaper89971]

Current Concerns and Problems to be solved
I don't know were to mount the Sata hard drive yet.
I don't know were to locate the wifi antenna,
my board uses a m.2 e key for wifi card and does not have a wifi antenna built in, so i have to use a universal antenna

Don't know if everything will be to close together in there, The power supply will be mounted above the the graphics card and ram modules open framed.

I silicone Coated the bottom of the graphic card and that part will be facing up.

I really wish i could silicone coat the power supply to protect my components.

I don't know if i will be able to keep the power supply cool open framed. It usually has a 15 pound heat sink and no fans. I have 5 fans blowing on it with very small heat sinks.

I don't know if the power supply survived being modified yet i have not tested it. I am still waiting on the other end of the input cable.

I took the 2.5 hard drive out of it case and i was gong to either coat it with silicone then glue it in some were or velcro it in some were. I also thought of just wrapping it in electrical tape then velcroing it into the case some were. The drive is less than 2.5 inch when you take it out of its case. It is only a inch or so big.

My motherboard might have to be returned and or replaced because it smells funny, I have not tested it yet. I bought it from NEOBITS and i have never used them before.

Anyway all i s well and i will figure everything out in the future.

 

[beyondlogic]

Current Concerns and Problems to be solved
I don't know were to mount the Sata hard drive yet.
I don't know were to locate the wifi antenna,
my board uses a m.2 e key for wifi card and does not have a wifi antenna built in, so i have to use a universal antenna

Don't know if everything will be to close together in there, The power supply will be mounted above the the graphics card and ram modules open framed.

I silicone Coated the bottom of the graphic card and that part will be facing up.

I really wish i could silicone coat the power supply to protect my components.

I don't know if i will be able to keep the power supply cool open framed. It usually has a 15 pound heat sink and no fans. I have 5 fans blowing on it with very small heat sinks.

I don't know if the power supply survived being modified yet i have not tested it. I am still waiting on the other end of the input cable.

I took the 2.5 hard drive out of it case and i was gong to either coat it with silicone then glue it in some were or velcro it in some were. I also thought of just wrapping it in electrical tape then velcroing it into the case some were. The drive is less than 2.5 inch when you take it out of its case. It is only a inch or so big.

My motherboard might have to be returned and or replaced because it smells funny, I have not tested it yet. I bought it from NEOBITS and i have never used them before.

Anyway all i s well and i will figure everything out in the future.

flex psu would have been safer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-FX500-Flex-ATX-supply-SST-FX500-G/dp/B08HNHP1HJ
why a i9? thats gonna dump alot of heat in there.

see if you get any ideas from builds prior these also used flex

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dXxFv9ePlk

 

[reaper89971]

flex psu would have been safer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-FX500-Flex-ATX-supply-SST-FX500-G/dp/B08HNHP1HJ
why a i9? thats gonna dump alot of heat in there.

see if you get any ideas from builds prior these also used flex

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dXxFv9ePlk

Thank you for your reply
I tried using a flex psu but couldn't get one to fit unless i ran without a graphics card. You may be right a small flex psu might have been safer for this build. But then i would have needed to have chosen different PC Components.

Some Flex PSUs are physically smaller than others once you break them down and take them apart. I don't suggest that anyone do that. But i took a few apart and most wouldn't fit, Above my graphics card. So Flex PSUs will only fit if you run without a graphics card.

The HDPLEX HIFI DC-ATX 500 watt is one of the few psus that will fit in the case comfortably in my opinion. HDPLEX also makes some other small psus as well that might fit. I didn't try them all.

A Weaker Motherboard that runs on a barrel cable of some kind would be much better. Or if you run a Pico power supply that would work much easier as well.

I don't know about PICO Power supplies though they seem to be hit or miss in my experience. Some work well while others don't work well or even at all.

Point being a Power brick of some kind would be easier for a build in a playstation 2.

But i am trying to do more a full size build in there if possible. I don't know if i will have success though.

 

[reaper89971]

Wondering how my PC Build would do against a PS4 or PS5 or the xbox 1x.

I don't think i could beat them in such a small space but hopefully my system will at least stand up to them.

MY FAT PS2 PC Build
CASE: FAT PS2 SCPH 30000
Motherboard: Asrock industrial Mini itx IMB-1220-D
CPU: Intel Core i9 10900 65watt and up to 224watts i think(I might switch it out for a i9 10900T if it runs 2 hot in there)
Ram: 2 Sticks of DDR4 2933mhz 32 Gig so 2x16gb
GPU: PNY Nvidia T1000 8 gig gddr6 50 watt single slot card
Power supply: HDPLEX HIFI DC-ATX 500 watt
Adapter: 1U server pciex16 90 degree
Tried and True Hard drive sata 3: Samsung 870 evo 4tb
Wifi Card: intel ac 9560
Heat Sink: Dynatron K1 Passive Cooler
Fans/Cooling: 2 92mm 67cfm Delta electronic fans, 4 24v 35mm fans

NVME drive: Not sure yet if i want to run one of those but my board supports it. On my board it has 3 m.2 slots but not sure if i can use the wifi card slot and the hard drive slot at the same time they are right on top of one another.

 

[beyondlogic]

Thank you for your reply
I tried using a flex psu but couldn't get one to fit unless i ran without a graphics card. You may be right a small flex psu might have been safer for this build. But then i would have needed to have chosen different PC Components.

Some Flex PSUs are physically smaller than others once you break them down and take them apart. I don't suggest that anyone do that. But i took a few apart and most wouldn't fit, Above my graphics card. So Flex PSUs will only fit if you run without a graphics card.

The HDPLEX HIFI DC-ATX 500 watt is one of the few psus that will fit in the case comfortably in my opinion. HDPLEX also makes some other small psus as well that might fit. I didn't try them all.

A Weaker Motherboard that runs on a barrel cable of some kind would be much better. Or if you run a Pico power supply that would work much easier as well.

I don't know about PICO Power supplies though they seem to be hit or miss in my experience. Some work well while others don't work well or even at all.

Point being a Power brick of some kind would be easier for a build in a playstation 2.

But i am trying to do more a full size build in there if possible. I don't know if i will have success though.

I would aim for a 65w tdp easier to cool

 

[reaper89971]

I would aim for a 65w tdp easier to cool

Thank you for your reply
You got it
My board only supports 65 watts tdp as the max.

Hey would you happen to know of a way to reinforce pc standoffs a little bit. I was thinking of putting some epoxy or glue around them. I already used loctite red 271 to permanently lock the threads. I have some JBWELD WATERWELD epoxy wondering it that stuff would be okay

 

[beyondlogic]

Thank you for your reply
You got it
My board only supports 65 watts tdp as the max.

Hey would you happen to know of a way to reinforce pc standoffs a little bit. I was thinking of putting some epoxy or glue around them. I already used loctite red 271 to permanently lock the threads. I have some JBWELD WATERWELD epoxy wondering it that stuff would be okay

You could put a very thin sheet of aluminium on inside drill holes in aluminum sheet for stand offs.
The plastic might warp with all the heat in the case is why i recomend a small metal sheet lined on inside.



you could put a washer on the bottom and screw them in as you get double sided stand offs brass.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/XLX-Male-F...047978771-B07ZSYDGR6-&hvexpln=74&gad_source=1


so it goes stand off double sided metal sheet plastic bottom washer screw then put a rubber foot on all them to hide them this would allow for venting from the bottom.

or if you go the full plastic stand offs with nylon stand offs. ( not recomended cause of warping possibility.) i would epoxy them in you can also try gorrila glue. or same method as metal stand offs but youll need washers still. the pros non conductive

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sleeves-As...de6b4f3fc7df360e829e88b910519a4e&gad_source=1

realisticly wouldnt bother with a graphics card.

AMD Ryzen 7 8700G is what i would use.​

 

[reaper89971]

You could put a very thin sheet of aluminium on inside drill holes in aluminum sheet for stand offs.
The plastic might warp with all the heat in the case is why i recomend a small metal sheet lined on inside.



you could put a washer on the bottom and screw them in as you get double sided stand offs brass.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/XLX-Male-F...047978771-B07ZSYDGR6-&hvexpln=74&gad_source=1


so it goes stand off double sided metal sheet plastic bottom washer screw then put a rubber foot on all them to hide them this would allow for venting from the bottom.

or if you go the full plastic stand offs with nylon stand offs. ( not recomended cause of warping possibility.) i would epoxy them in you can also try gorrila glue. or same method as metal stand offs but youll need washers still. the pros non conductive

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sleeves-As...de6b4f3fc7df360e829e88b910519a4e&gad_source=1

realisticly wouldnt bother with a graphics card.

AMD Ryzen 7 8700G is what i would use.​

Thank you for your reply
Considering the Possibility of the plastic warping i have just decided to use a Intel Core i9-10900T instead of the i9-10900. It only has a 35 watt tdp so it should run much cooler.

As for the reinforcement i haven't decided what to do yet. I like the aluminum sheet idea but i had to have implemented it earlier into the case. I have already drilled my standoff holes and permanently locked the threads with loctite red 271 glue. So i can't remove my standoffs i would have to lay the aluminum sheet of some kind around the standoffs.

I did some research and found that ABS plastic may warp at 88-89 degree C. The thermal design of the Playstation 2 allows for up to 86 degrees C in the early models and up to only 76C in later models according to the heat sensor parameters of the Emotion Engine.

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps2/Thermal_sensors

So according to that information i will try to remain under the 86 degrees C with my entire system.

Total CFM will be 158 with all fans.

 

[reaper89971]

I have some copper sheet i could use to line the case but don't know what adhesive to use. All adhesives will insulate right?

Would lining the plastic with with copper release the heat better or would it be about the same and not worth doing.

 

[beyondlogic]

I have some copper sheet i could use to line the case but don't know what adhesive to use. All adhesives will insulate right?

Would lining the plastic with with copper release the heat better or would it be about the same and not worth doing.

i would just use some very small bolt nuts in each corner to hold it in place. in each corner. youd still have to cut holes in it if you want fans to provide air if its going on that side.

copper will work fine if you want to mitigate the heat from psu as well you could line under the power supply some thermal pads. to transfer some of its heat to the copper plate. if you want to also make the outside fans smaller.

other thing is the power supply fans I would turn them around so they are actually pulling the hot air out of the case and have the whole back row as just one long track of those fans.

i assume the 2 bottom fans are pulling in air so direction for airflow should go
up and out of the case.

ARCTIC P12 Slim PWM PST​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-P12-SLIM-PWM-Pressure-optimised/dp/B08QDKGCCW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=URKQKM2Q9HAW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0gozasnkhhbiwIL6MYVDQOeR_hS4Xtdu9RI5p1xoqMjqj-d-JA80NK9tIG2Gir_iBCPei414C49k0xASE0OgQvVdC17GhCuOGmY0V4H4DmNgS0DerV4BpOk5rGBxJVGWvM4XX9v_4hi1i05Oiase1NAsfIDysJalw7Mc9eREgvRuco_aYP9DNLMYmO5RIOm2KmYFyxz-BHJO7cn6KVCkg8uV4UsBuMsdCh_3UHoMYGs.uYoKrbkIOUFGLH_jm_djKiIxoLyLGT-WYqAVzWvxJ8k&dib_tag=se&keywords=120mm+slim+fan&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729976977&sprefix=120mm+slim+fan%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

2 coolers i would suggest

Thermalright AXP90-X36​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-AXP90-X36-Profile-TL-9015-Technology/dp/B0BGPCCYQ8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=CSW4X6TQX9WL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c3qPioI1OAyfztdbqGdvleJy8AxXILxhoIBlikCbdG4t44k7Y659AluZIIB2byjPyCXuNB94WN2fBJm8bMTGLZhKBX3wtW_4bif0GUnEzlb_msHi_OKztjnyYJAd8qp9XMuSSXnnLWM0VxnZDsy6UibcOzN9ewY-l4FkfEAgJEHsxurBobLVj0zz2Qfn2GAPZVtk0KDKd54J17m0pfAmtqFK6vqH-VnOqFOTTH2QWbU.hmZYRy7ijbuPOCrEWRSmfZyWPfARPqrKWEexERndeqk&dib_tag=se&keywords=low+profile+thermalright&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729977067&sprefix=low+profile+thermalright%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-4

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-AXP90-X47-TL-9015B-Technology-AM5Intel/dp/B0B4JFFJJH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1ISR5IXHYIM6A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.P4SeNEQCYouLJnEjecCVwGcV5-6WAMCEiWEioCQFfrgnj0l8dTlVLUsWzdfE6syqBtu4w8hBx4cQrMRemTkYgLSXBNT8k3WSQQDTfY6HpgKIuAHBZ6MGFXeyI6yKSxNXCOYR_ZOHTvTIdwBIj7PJv5OpgRd6xvW52TRiOQ7oBE8A8gDw8d1Vc2WjAKvpMi9TaReeGerHkKqGsw2CRuBKBw7oZDpxjxjEfhxni3dpP8E.8kJ2KeahTeZ8wJoVVSHAm03mmWbSKLraldW-1GHi5Mw&dib_tag=se&keywords=thermalright+47&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729982953&sprefix=thermalright+47,aps,84&sr=8-3


other small fan options
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14610430...2NIEwH3nJKhuSYepRxlsaGMzsKl_Cjk0aArC2EALw_wcB


what gpu are you planning

 

[reaper89971]

i would just use some very small bolt nuts in each corner to hold it in place. in each corner. youd still have to cut holes in it if you want fans to provide air if its going on that side.

copper will work fine if you want to mitigate the heat from psu as well you could line under the power supply some thermal pads. to transfer some of its heat to the copper plate. if you want to also make the outside fans smaller.

other thing is the power supply fans I would turn them around so they are actually pulling the hot air out of the case and have the whole back row as just one long track of those fans.

i assume the 2 bottom fans are pulling in air so direction for airflow should go
up and out of the case.

ARCTIC P12 Slim PWM PST​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-P12-SLIM-PWM-Pressure-optimised/dp/B08QDKGCCW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=URKQKM2Q9HAW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0gozasnkhhbiwIL6MYVDQOeR_hS4Xtdu9RI5p1xoqMjqj-d-JA80NK9tIG2Gir_iBCPei414C49k0xASE0OgQvVdC17GhCuOGmY0V4H4DmNgS0DerV4BpOk5rGBxJVGWvM4XX9v_4hi1i05Oiase1NAsfIDysJalw7Mc9eREgvRuco_aYP9DNLMYmO5RIOm2KmYFyxz-BHJO7cn6KVCkg8uV4UsBuMsdCh_3UHoMYGs.uYoKrbkIOUFGLH_jm_djKiIxoLyLGT-WYqAVzWvxJ8k&dib_tag=se&keywords=120mm+slim+fan&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729976977&sprefix=120mm+slim+fan%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

2 coolers i would suggest

Thermalright AXP90-X36​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-AXP90-X36-Profile-TL-9015-Technology/dp/B0BGPCCYQ8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=CSW4X6TQX9WL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c3qPioI1OAyfztdbqGdvleJy8AxXILxhoIBlikCbdG4t44k7Y659AluZIIB2byjPyCXuNB94WN2fBJm8bMTGLZhKBX3wtW_4bif0GUnEzlb_msHi_OKztjnyYJAd8qp9XMuSSXnnLWM0VxnZDsy6UibcOzN9ewY-l4FkfEAgJEHsxurBobLVj0zz2Qfn2GAPZVtk0KDKd54J17m0pfAmtqFK6vqH-VnOqFOTTH2QWbU.hmZYRy7ijbuPOCrEWRSmfZyWPfARPqrKWEexERndeqk&dib_tag=se&keywords=low+profile+thermalright&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729977067&sprefix=low+profile+thermalright%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-4

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-AXP90-X47-TL-9015B-Technology-AM5Intel/dp/B0B4JFFJJH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1ISR5IXHYIM6A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.P4SeNEQCYouLJnEjecCVwGcV5-6WAMCEiWEioCQFfrgnj0l8dTlVLUsWzdfE6syqBtu4w8hBx4cQrMRemTkYgLSXBNT8k3WSQQDTfY6HpgKIuAHBZ6MGFXeyI6yKSxNXCOYR_ZOHTvTIdwBIj7PJv5OpgRd6xvW52TRiOQ7oBE8A8gDw8d1Vc2WjAKvpMi9TaReeGerHkKqGsw2CRuBKBw7oZDpxjxjEfhxni3dpP8E.8kJ2KeahTeZ8wJoVVSHAm03mmWbSKLraldW-1GHi5Mw&dib_tag=se&keywords=thermalright+47&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729982953&sprefix=thermalright+47,aps,84&sr=8-3


other small fan options
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14610430...2NIEwH3nJKhuSYepRxlsaGMzsKl_Cjk0aArC2EALw_wcB


what gpu are you planning

Thanks for your reply
I was going to run a ACER PNY Nvidia T1000 8gb gddr6 single slot GPU

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TFPFLW7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I might flip those fans around to face the opposite direction, The little fans that is. They are 6 cfm each and 24v 35mm fans by ghost time i think the brand its.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182623902047

The larger fans are from delta electronics they are 92mm fans that push 67 cfm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285086990750

You are correct the larger fans are blowing into the case.

I will post more photos soon as i make some more progress

Here is the graphics card adapter that i am using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VV18PQD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Motherboard that i am going to use Asrock IMB-1220-D
https://www.asrockind.com/en-gb/IMB-1220-D

Main reason i chose this board is because the 24 pin connector is on the left witch really helps things out as far as cable management and being able to close the case. Also LGA1200 is smaller than LGA 1700 by a little bit. It is hard to find a motherboard with the power connector on the left side kinda in the middle. In my opinion its the best position for a 24 pin connector in this case if you run or use a board with a 24 pin connector. Most of the newer boards have the pin connector in the front witch won't work in the ps2 case cause then you can't close the case properly unless you relocate the pin connector.

The heat sink for now is the the Dynatron K1 aluminum passive cooler unless it the cpu gets too hot then i will switch to a air cooler.

 

[beyondlogic]

Thanks for your reply
I was going to run a ACER PNY Nvidia T1000 8gb gddr6 single slot GPU

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TFPFLW7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I might flip those fans around to face the opposite direction, The little fans that is. They are 6 cfm each and 24v 35mm fans by ghost time i think the brand its.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182623902047

The larger fans are from delta electronics they are 92mm fans that push 67 cfm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285086990750

You are correct the larger fans are blowing into the case.

I will post more photos soon as i make some more progress

Here is the graphics card adapter that i am using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VV18PQD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Motherboard that i am going to use Asrock IMB-1220-D
https://www.asrockind.com/en-gb/IMB-1220-D

Main reason i chose this board is because the 24 pin connector is on the left witch really helps things out as far as cable management and being able to close the case. Also LGA1200 is smaller than LGA 1700 by a little bit. It is hard to find a motherboard with the power connector on the left side kinda in the middle. In my opinion its the best position for a 24 pin connector in this case if you run or use a board with a 24 pin connector. Most of the newer boards have the pin connector in the front witch won't work in the ps2 case cause then you can't close the case properly unless you relocate the pin connector.

The heat sink for now is the the Dynatron K1 aluminum passive cooler unless it the cpu gets too hot then i will switch to a air cooler.

yeah the heatsink looks to weedy for 35w

Dynatron K199 Intel 1200/115X Blower with PWM function, All-Copper Active Cooler for 1U Server Solution, Support 125 Watts CPU TDP - Server Case

www.servercase.co.uk

other fans.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalrig...5627&sprefix=92mm+fan+slim,aps,83&sr=8-5&th=1


whats the purpose of the system ?

 

[reaper89971]

yeah the heatsink looks to weedy for 35w

Dynatron K199 Intel 1200/115X Blower with PWM function, All-Copper Active Cooler for 1U Server Solution, Support 125 Watts CPU TDP - Server Case

www.servercase.co.uk

other fans.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-TL-9015W-computer-Slimline-2700RPM/dp/B0C4YH9Z8W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=9HIVZ1X1I49T&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.nPgQTewH0TlCGz6IBNqqvt0Wh42WCoSv_yKhHKjpTCUaUe8XIWBPc2VWelM1lO2wky1nb5y_IiNu9LpxzlnOqZWKa2cklKE-YCUFrGIyFSv5p71df_TVfCJfF80MVSs8OQpBBmOwXN9aX3SO1kmZi2lt7RD8ROJz58tH07NixCAEuxgqbHv-zlFp1dOeFKgIVbVJA9ePl15RV8sfRWP6jePXNmNXTT51xobvtfZv9QA.BCyniXRNijCIzNKhvUIsjFOlhy8JrDnHGbz02vpalHM&dib_tag=se&keywords=92mm+fan+slim&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1729995627&sprefix=92mm+fan+slim,aps,83&sr=8-5&th=1


whats the purpose of the system ?

Thanks for your reply
The purpose of the system will be for emulation, and some lite gaming.

The PC will mostly be a table topper that i run web searches mostly on or at least, that is what i do with my current PS2 PC that is much weaker then this system that i want to build.

Will the i9-10900T be enough for PS3 emulation? Not sure if the system will boast enough strength to emulate that system.

I don't like that the PS3 emulator uses 100% of the cpu no matter how strong it is.

I have a MSI Trident 3 12 gen i7-12700F and it runs the PS3 emulator but it still gets used at 100% and gets real hot.

My goal will be to keep the system below 86 degree C even if that mean avoiding doing certain things on it.

 

[beyondlogic]

Thanks for your reply
The purpose of the system will be for emulation, and some lite gaming.

The PC will mostly be a table topper that i run web searches mostly on or at least, that is what i do with my current PS2 PC that is much weaker then this system that i want to build.

Will the i9-10900T be enough for PS3 emulation? Not sure if the system will boast enough strength to emulate that system.

I don't like that the PS3 emulator uses 100% of the cpu no matter how strong it is.

I have a MSI Trident 3 12 gen i7-12700F and it runs the PS3 emulator but it still gets used at 100% and gets real hot.

My goal will be to keep the system below 86 degree C even if that mean avoiding doing certain things on it.

It should boost you can normally set a throttle point on the processor. fun fact the ps4 has a weaker processor then the ps3

but this processor should handle ps3 emulation fine the issue with t processors though is you cant manipulate the clock speed. its kind of why i went with ryzen amd for all my builds even my other future side projects.

the ps3 processor is about what a modern quad core on amds side it be a ryzen proccessor

I would take advantage of copper plate and use thermal pads under anything that makes contact with the plate if you have any spaces after put a few aluminium heatsinks ok it to wick any heat to the aluminium.

i havent got around to a ps2 sleeper yet but i have it shelfed in notes just been waiting for the am5 processors to go down in price.

 

[reaper89971]

Well i have some good news My power supply survived being modified and is in working condition. I really wasn't sure about that thing. I had to bake it in the oven for 2 hours to cure some thermal epoxy to glue some heat sinks on. I only baked at 150 degrees F for 2 hours that was before having the wires soldered in.

So it survived having all the modular ports removed then being baked in an oven then having all the wires soldered in. So that little thing seems pretty tough. But i had to solder in a different input plug in the end. I went with an automotive plug. There larger plugs witch sucks cause they don't look nice in my opinion.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5M6Z52L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


If i had gone with a lower power system i could have maybe gotten away with there barrel connector. I would have had to stay below 330 watts though.

Im using 24v 18.8 amp 451 watts as my input source.

My sleeper will be very obvious but i can live with that.

The hardest part of building a pc in the ps2 in my opinion is Power. Unless you use a pico power supply or use a motherboard that has an input plug on it like a jack like a laptop.

I can't say enough how the 24 pin connector needs to be on the left side of the motherboard otherwise you can't close the case witch rules out alot of motherboards. I guess you could relocate the 24 pin connector but that would be odd looking i think. Then you could use any board out there i guess.

Definitely don't try to use a scph 10000 there way different on the inside then the others. I bought one and that was a mistake. The case is 3 different pieces witch complicates things . I would go scph 39000 or scph 30000.

All is well and everything is wired up correctly so all i am waiting on now is my i9 to come in the mail, the low power one i have a high power one but i don't want to use that one. So i have a i9-10900 that i want to sell. That and my heat sink to come in the mail. Im also looking a digital thermal monitor sensor that i could easily use with my system.

 

[beyondlogic]

Well i have some good news My power supply survived being modified and is in working condition. I really wasn't sure about that thing. I had to bake it in the oven for 2 hours to cure some thermal epoxy to glue some heat sinks on. I only baked at 150 degrees F for 2 hours that was before having the wires soldered in.

So it survived having all the modular ports removed then being baked in an oven then having all the wires soldered in. So that little thing seems pretty tough. But i had to solder in a different input plug in the end. I went with an automotive plug. There larger plugs witch sucks cause they don't look nice in my opinion.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5M6Z52L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


If i had gone with a lower power system i could have maybe gotten away with there barrel connector. I would have had to stay below 330 watts though.

Im using 24v 18.8 amp 451 watts as my input source.

My sleeper will be very obvious but i can live with that.

The hardest part of building a pc in the ps2 in my opinion is Power. Unless you use a pico power supply or use a motherboard that has an input plug on it like a jack like a laptop.

I can't say enough how the 24 pin connector needs to be on the left side of the motherboard otherwise you can't close the case witch rules out alot of motherboards. I guess you could relocate the 24 pin connector but that would be odd looking i think. Then you could use any board out there i guess.

Definitely don't try to use a scph 10000 there way different on the inside then the others. I bought one and that was a mistake. The case is 3 different pieces witch complicates things . I would go scph 39000 or scph 30000.

All is well and everything is wired up correctly so all i am waiting on now is my i9 to come in the mail, the low power one i have a high power one but i don't want to use that one. So i have a i9-10900 that i want to sell. That and my heat sink to come in the mail. Im also looking a digital thermal monitor sensor that i could easily use with my system.

Still say a flex is better modding power supplys

 

[reaper89971]

I am actively looking for a double usb 3.0 cable that are not insulated and would basically be plain wires. I intend on gluing it into the case or epoxy putting it into the case so the front usb will work.

I have looked online and not found any cables that are not insulated or encapsulated in plastic.

Also was looking for a small and mean really small basic cpu thermostat or thermal sensor device. I was hoping to find one that runs off a coin battery or something so it would be really small. Something like that i may have to make myself but i figure i should ask about it.