Guidance on Liq.Cooling HD6990 (XFX)

commissar_mo

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I'm interested in liquid cooling an HD6990 (from XFX, allowing for a warranty-valid water block install, or so I've been led to believe).

I currently have a Core i7 (975EE at 4GHz) waterblock with X58 motherboard waterblock (Koolance) running on a Koolance ERM3K2U (the big rackmount Al rad one).

I've heard that this GPU has an inefficient stock air cooler, which also vents back into the case, which I'm not a terrible fan of.

I also run my machine 24/7 which may or may not matter, but in terms of noise/heat buildup, has led me to consider liquid for this GPU.

I was wondering if anyone had any liquid setup that they'd like to share that worked to cool this card or a similar one?

I'm considering just giving it its own loop, since I've been told the Koolance ERM unit I have isn't really tasked to take on my CPU, SB AND a GPU (despite its advertised capabilities), and that I would be better off running 2 distinct liquid setups.

 

commissar_mo

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Well, yes, that's a waterblock for the 6990, though I would probably use an EK one as I believe they keep the card single slot...

Nonetheless, I was interested in any actual combination of radiators, pumps, or just pre-built systems people have this card on...
 
Well, yes, that's a waterblock for the 6990, though I would probably use an EK one as I believe they keep the card single slot...
All the waterblocks will be single slot (your PCIe bracket will still be two slots), so it doesn't matter which brand you turn to. I would stay away from EK's nickel blocks - it's just a pain to worry about and there's no confidence from EK. Their copper blocks are quite good though.

Nonetheless, I was interested in any actual combination of radiators, pumps, or just pre-built systems people have this card on...
If you haven't read the sticky (top of the WC forum), give it a read through. You'll be able to calculate what you need.
 
Wouldn't I be able to cut part of the bracket (I haven't actually received/seen the card yet) to get something like this?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131438

I mean, there's no reason to cut off the bracket - your block will take up less space than the stock cooler.

Ok I'll calculate everything viz. requirements, but I was also wondering if it would be 'wise' to just serial loop my GPU with the already extant CPU/SB loop?
You're fine running them in serial - if you have the right rad space your temps won't change much. Most of us here are running multi-GPU/CPU setups with multiple rads in a serial loop. Your flow rates start to break down once you split into parallel.
 

commissar_mo

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Well, I was hoping to get the card to single slot bracket so I could use the PCI slot below it?

and

Ok that sounds good, serial seems easier to integrate than a whole new LCS.

Thanks.
 

rubix_1011

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How would you cut the bracket? And what do you intend to do with the card once you are done using it and possibly want to sell?

You can always contact AMD or whoever your card manufacturer/reseller is and ask if they have any single slot PCI brackets for that card when using an installed waterblock for single slot installations.
 

^True - running on 12 hours of sleep over the last 3-4 days and it didn't come to mind ;)

You might also be able to modify other single slot brackets - I know EVGA sells single slots for it's Hydrocopper cards. You'll have to kind of make up where the screws would go, but it could work.
 

commissar_mo

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Hmm, I'm probably not imagining what the dual slot bracket looks like, but I had thought once I took the cooler off, I could just cut the grill-part of the bracket off and be left with something like the NewEgg Linked card.

And I wouldn't be at all worried about selling it or anything.
 

commissar_mo

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Basically, I have a sound card, 2 RAID controller cards, the GPU, and wanted to add a NIC as well, so I'll probably do this to free up that extra slot.
 

cirdecus

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I've found that the best cooling solution is to either have 2 rads in your loop or created a separate loop.

I had a setup that used a triple rad for a SLI combo of cards that generated a great deal of heat and worked very well while the CPU was being cooled with a dual rad. It was one loop that went like this:

reservoir -> pump -> CPU -> MB -> 240rad -> GPU1 -> GPU2 -> 360rad.

It performed extremely well when couple with 1/2 diameter tubing and a high performance swiftech pump (the industrial one). If you have a less powerful pump, i'd suggest using two loops if you have the case space for it. The key is getting large tubing and a super-fast flow.

Proper maintenance is key also. I saw my temps rise about 15C over the course of a year. After replacing the tubing and liquid, they dropped back where they started, so make sure to keep this thing maintained.

Hope this helps! If you need specific parts, let me know
 

rubix_1011

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Single loop will out-perform a dual loop if you compare exact same components used for single vs. dual. For instance, a CPU only loop with a single radiator and a loop cooling SLI cards with a large radiator will be outperformed if you were to combine all components into a single loop.
 

commissar_mo

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Dramatic change on just changing the tubing! I'm guessing there was "plaque" buildup from coagulated coolant? (ala ateriosclerosis...)

I already use 1/2'' diameter tubing so that's a plus - I haven't seen people using larger tubing - I'm assuming the pumps would have to be much larger...

This is the pump inside the ERM Koolance unit:
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=858

I've heard it never runs at 24v for some reason... so I'm to use the 12V specs of 17.6L/Min flow.

Thanks for your really specific advice!

(and yes I have dual gigabit eth, but I need more!)
 

rubix_1011

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Tubing size greater than 3/8"ID really isn't going to make a large impact on either flow or temps, so the change was likely due to some other factor.

The D5 pump you are speaking of above that runs at 24v (or 18v) are the 'Strong' versions of those pumps. Most D5 pumps are of the 12v variety unless you specifically purchased the 18v or 24v versions. These also will have a higher heat-dump into the loop (which would be an additional 15-30 watts over a normal D5).