Build Advice I need help building a PC for my dad ?

[Samer_2]

Hi

I am building a PC for my dad who primarily wants it for Microsoft Flight Simulator, and I am kind of rushing because I need to get everything before I flight back for the summer. I have never built one before and am worried I royally f'd something up.

Is there anything wrong with this build? Any no-brainer small improvements or fatal incompatibilities?

Parts:
Case : Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L Micro ATX - 40$
MB : Gigabyte B550M - 90$
GPU : ASRock RX 6600 Challenger - $220
CPU : Ryzen 5 5600 - $111
RAM : T-Force 2x8GB 3600mhz CL18 - $30
SSD : Crucial P3 1TB M.2 - $64
PSU : Thermaltake Smart 600W 80Plus Certified - $45


its approximately 600$ with shipping, I was also considering these 2 prebuilts for $859 which is considerably more... and I'm not sure would beneficial for a casual gamer but I thought were great value especially for MSFS (maybe?):
MSI Codex R2
HZG Gaming Desktop Computer
with the obvious difference to me between the two was 16 DDR5 vs 32 DDR4.

I would really appreciate some clarity on this as I am going crazy researching every little thing. Thank you!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ditch that Smart 600w unit unless you want this to be a toaster that burns everything you put inside it. Or simply causes no end of grief and problems. Not kidding, it's garbage. This is the least expensive power supply I would even consider allowing to live in that build with those components right now in light of very poor availability due to trade concerns and tariffs, as well as many companies simply not making product available right now due to the tenuous nature of things. Every PSU I can see from all vendors on PC Partpicker that is less expensive than this is at best very questionable and at worst a literal time bomb. It's not an exaggeration.

And, while it's a bit more than that smart series model, it's an extremely excellent power supply.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: ADATA XPG Core Reactor II 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $79.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-05-31 00:15 EDT-0400

Also, that Masterbox Q300L is a very poor choice in terms of highly restricted airflow. Just like the Q500L, it's bigger brother.

How much can you ACTUALLY afford to throw at this, assuming an attempt to come in under that as much as possible?

Where are you located, as in, what country?

Is there a specific online or local retailer that you HAVE to use, or is ordering from multiple sources ok? Usually, it's going to be Amazon or Newegg and will generally have free shipping.

 

[Samer_2]

Ditch that Smart 600w unit unless you want this to be a toaster that burns everything you put inside it. Or simply causes no end of grief and problems. Not kidding, it's garbage. This is the least expensive power supply I would even consider allowing to live in that build with those components right now in light of very poor availability due to trade concerns and tariffs, as well as many companies simply not making product available right now due to the tenuous nature of things. Every PSU I can see from all vendors on PC Partpicker that is less expensive than this is at best very questionable and at worst a literal time bomb. It's not an exaggeration.

And, while it's a bit more than that smart series model, it's an extremely excellent power supply.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: ADATA XPG Core Reactor II 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $79.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-05-31 00:15 EDT-0400

Also, that Masterbox Q300L is a very poor choice in terms of highly restricted airflow. Just like the Q500L, it's bigger brother.

How much can you ACTUALLY afford to throw at this, assuming an attempt to come in under that as much as possible?

Where are you located, as in, what country?

Is there a specific online or local retailer that you HAVE to use, or is ordering from multiple sources ok? Usually, it's going to be Amazon or Newegg and will generally have free shipping.

Honestly it was originally closer to $550 ish but it went a bit over which is fine. Realistically now that I think about it that’s probably my budget, especially if it’s sufficient for MSFS mediumish settings stable 30fps+ because my dad isn’t really a hardcore gamer.

In terms of the case which one would be a better option for a similar price?

For the PSU is an 80$ one really required is there one perhaps that’s a middle choice. I’m surprised by your description of them being time bombs given that the reviews were excellent but I assume people review it immediately after use not in the long run. Perhaps spending a little more on the PSU is wise then.

I am currently in the States and I honestly do prefer if we stuck to Newegg, or anything other than amazon really, unless the Amazon pick is significantly better, for personal reasons.

Thank you so much I really appreciate your help!

 

[Darkbreeze]

What reviews? On Amazon? Newegg? Pffffffffffffft. Those aren't reviews. Those are knee jerk feedbacks from people who wouldn't know a power supply from a shoe fly. The only professional review of this that I am aware of was on JonnyGuru.com and it could not pass testing even at it's spec rated loads. Not to mention, I and others have been helping people out of bad situations with these Smart series units ever since Thermaltake ditched the TR2 units and replaced them with these. Trust me, they are one of the worst models out there still being sold by a well known brand.

Here's just one example and heck, it's even from a while back.

Question - Will a Thermaltake Smart 500 Watt 80 Plus handle my build?

Build specs. CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 4.1 Ghz 1.4v CPU Cooler: Corsair Hyper 212 evo (2 fans LED) GPU: Amd Radeon RX Vega 56 Ram: DDR4 8GB 3066 Motherboard: Msi X370 SLI Plus Storage: wd black 1tb 7.2k Rpm and HP S700 250GB ssd 3 Thernaltake Riing 120mm fans So could a Thermaltake Smart 500watt 80...

forums.tomshardware.com

There are literally HUNDREDS more except with actual problems due to having purchased one. If you buy one, you WILL have grief, I promise. Especially with a discreet graphics card installed. With a system that has nothing more than integrated graphics, you MIGHT get by with one for a while, but even then don't expect it to last more than two or three years if it's being used very much.

Spend the money on the Core Reactor II. The PSU is THE MOST IMPORTANT component in the system, bar none. No other component in the system matters without a reliable, at least decent quality power supply that can sustain the required capacity because no component in the system can work without it. And, a poor quality or failing power supply can look like any other component failing because without ample, clean power, it can't work right. This is the #1 component in your build you do not want to skimp on.

The problem with not going with Amazon is that you end up paying about 20-30% more overall going with all parts from Newegg or another retailer. Occasionally some parts are cheaper using Newegg, or if a specific part is required, is often available through Newegg if it isn't through Amazon, and is close enough to the price it would have been on Amazon to simply say, eh, heck with it, but overall, I generally see anywhere from a 60-200 dollar savings going with Amazon if they have the part because it's simply less expensive. Trust me, I fracking hate them too sometimes. Often in fact. But I'm not going to bite my own nose off just to spite my face.

 

[Samer_2]

What reviews? On Amazon? Newegg? Pffffffffffffft. Those aren't reviews. Those are knee jerk feedbacks from people who wouldn't know a power supply from a shoe fly. The only professional review of this that I am aware of was on JonnyGuru.com and it could not pass testing even at it's spec rated loads. Not to mention, I and others have been helping people out of bad situations with these Smart series units ever since Thermaltake ditched the TR2 units and replaced them with these. Trust me, they are one of the worst models out there still being sold by a well known brand.

Here's just one example and heck, it's even from a while back.

Question - Will a Thermaltake Smart 500 Watt 80 Plus handle my build?

Build specs. CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 4.1 Ghz 1.4v CPU Cooler: Corsair Hyper 212 evo (2 fans LED) GPU: Amd Radeon RX Vega 56 Ram: DDR4 8GB 3066 Motherboard: Msi X370 SLI Plus Storage: wd black 1tb 7.2k Rpm and HP S700 250GB ssd 3 Thernaltake Riing 120mm fans So could a Thermaltake Smart 500watt 80...

forums.tomshardware.com

There are literally HUNDREDS more except with actual problems due to having purchased one. If you buy one, you WILL have grief, I promise. Especially with a discreet graphics card installed. With a system that has nothing more than integrated graphics, you MIGHT get by with one for a while, but even then don't expect it to last more than two or three years if it's being used very much.

Spend the money on the Core Reactor II. The PSU is THE MOST IMPORTANT component in the system, bar none. No other component in the system matters without a reliable, at least decent quality power supply that can sustain the required capacity because no component in the system can work without it. And, a poor quality or failing power supply can look like any other component failing because without ample, clean power, it can't work right. This is the #1 component in your build you do not want to skimp on.

The problem with not going with Amazon is that you end up paying about 20-30% more overall going with all parts from Newegg or another retailer. Occasionally some parts are cheaper using Newegg, or if a specific part is required, is often available through Newegg if it isn't through Amazon, and is close enough to the price it would have been on Amazon to simply say, eh, heck with it, but overall, I generally see anywhere from a 60-200 dollar savings going with Amazon if they have the part because it's simply less expensive. Trust me, I fracking hate them too sometimes. Often in fact. But I'm not going to bite my own nose off just to spite my face.

I see. I'll definitely consider getting that PSU then, but I'd prefer one for a similar price in Newegg or eBay. Is there a website with information on PSUs at all? Similar thing with my PC case. It's interesting cause both of those were in the https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks/best-pc-builds-gaming.

Also for the Amazon vs Newegg, I found that the parts on Newegg were relatively cheaper for the most part. Especially the GPU and CPU.

 

[dark_globe]

for the price of those prebuild systems you can have something better :
(16gb of ram is also not quite enough for this game)

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($134.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: ID-COOLING FROZN A620 PRO SE 58 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 D DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: TEAMGROUP T-FORCE G50 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($57.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ONIX LUMI OC Arc B580 12 GB Video Card ($309.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Montech AIR 903 BASE ATX Mid Tower Case ($65.00 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Montech CENTURY II 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $869.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-05-31 07:50 EDT-0400

 

[Samer_2]

For context I am building a PC with Ryzen 5 5600 and RX 6600, 16x2 DD4.

Wth is actually the difference between all of these mother boards? That's not even the end of them there are 520s and A instead of B at the start and DSH at the end... There's just a lot of them and I am lost on which one would be the best considering the price difference between them being 10-20$

Thank you!

 

[Math Geek]

Potential features is the difference. Low end cuts options while high end has more.

Does not mean every board has every feature, but they have a larger choice to implement the higher you go up the stack.

https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/chipsets/am4.html

 

[Samer_2]

I am currently building a PC with an RX6600 and a Ryzen 5 5600, with 32 gb ddr4 for context.

Is there any significant difference between the two ssds? considering the Predator is $11 more.

Thank you!

 

[Samer_2]

For context I am building a PC with an RX6600 and Ryzen 5 5600, 32gb DDR4.

I heard the RX 9060 XT is coming out on the 5th. Would it be worth it to wait for it and pay the $70? Keep in mind that I also probably need the card before the 12th of June because I am travelling for summer and gifting the PC.

Thank you!

 

[ohio_buckeye]

Let’s ask this. Is there a Microcenter in the area you are in? If so they have great combo deals and probably better availability on gpus. The 9060xt should be a LOT faster than the 6600. I think one comparison shows it being 41% faster possibly. Just make sure to get the 16gb version if you go that route.

 

[Misgar]

I’m surprised by your description of them being time bombs

If you need more convincing, read this post about Thermaltake Smart PSUs.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/sl0ht7/why_is_thermaltake_smart_80_white_disliked/

The reason why Smart PSUs got a bad reputation is because they used a very old design known as "double-forward with group technology".

If you load the +12V rail in a group-regulated PSU with a powerful GPU, the +5V and +3.3V rails can drift outside their limits (±5% for 5V and ±4% for 3.3V). Excessively low (or high) voltage on the 5V or 3.3V rails is bad news for your motherboard and other components.

Group regulated PSUs do not provide stable voltage on all three rails when one rail is heavily loaded.

In addition there's doubt if Smart PSUs include all the necessary under/over voltage/current/temperature protection limits. If you cheap out on protection and the PSU catches fire, it could destroy the whole PC.

To quote from the above link:

"I’ve used the 80+ whites before and they’re so widely disliked because they’re just plain unreliable at best and dangerous to hardware at worst. Out of around 30 that I’ve used 5 failed only taking the psu with it, 7 failed taking additional hardware with it, and 2 failed taking external hardware with them. They were spread over the course of around 4 years but a failure is a failure."

given that the reviews were excellent

A full review involves connecting thousands of dollars worth of digital programmable loads to the PSU and checking it over a wide range of output powers. The reviewer sometimes does a partial strip down of the PSU, unsoldering capacitors and MOSFETs, to check circuit design and component quality. You don't see this level of testing in simple reviews, which merely describe the PSU's outward appearance, then quote from the manufacturer's product page verbatim. Not a real test.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042-12.html

I'll definitely consider getting that PSU then, but I'd prefer one for a similar price in Newegg or eBay.

If you're considering a $45 PSUs, you're taking a risk. Not quite as bad as a $25 fire bomb, but not brilliant either. A cheap PSU might work for years in a basic PC without a separate GPU, but it's similar to buying cheap remolds for a sports car. Not worth the risk.

Really cheap PSUs come with a 3 year warranty or maybe just 1 year. The manufacturer simply isn't prepared to guarantee it any longer.

Better PSUs have a 5-year warranty. Next, there's 7-years, 10-years and finally 12-years.

Which PSU do you think has a better design and good quality components, a 3-year waranty or a 10-year warranty PSU? Quality and safety cost money.

I appreciate you may be working with a limited budget, but would you mind if your whole investment went up in smoke due to a cheap PSU failure?

If your father will be running Microsoft Flight Simulator 2025, you should read this:-

https://www.positioniseverything.net/best-computer-for-microsoft-flight-simulator-2025/#Buying_Guide

Microsoft have increased hardware requirements considerably with the 2025 release.

CPU Requirements​

The processor is the brain of your flight simulator experience. For smooth flying, look for:

• High clock speeds (4.0 GHz or higher)
• Multiple cores (at least 6 cores recommended)
• Newer generations (for better performance)

​

Graphics Card Considerations​

The graphics card will make your virtual skies look amazing. Here’s what to look for:

Spec	Minimum	Recommended
VRAM	8 GB	12+ GB
Generation	Current-1	Current
Performance Level	Mid-range	High-end

RAM and Storage​

Flight Simulator 2025 is hungry for memory. We suggest:

• 32 GB RAM at minimum for smoother gameplay
• SSD storage is a must-have (not optional!)
• At least 150 GB free space for the base game

Some people recommend 64GB RAM or even 96GB RAM for Flight Simulator which is getting "silly". You can get by with 32GB, or 16GB if you're desperate.

https://www.tomshardware.com/video-...ance-oddly-the-game-install-size-is-only-30gb

https://forums.flightsimulator.com/t/is-it-worth-using-96gb-of-ram-instead-of-64gb/704261

Good luck with the build.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Potential features is the difference. Low end cuts options while high end has more.

Does not mean every board has every feature, but they have a larger choice to implement the higher you go up the stack.

https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/chipsets/am4.html

Also, the component quality, such as VRMs and their individual components, baseboard thickness, trace quality, conformal and protective coatings quality and a laundry list of other quality and feature variations, all determine why one board costs more than another. They are definitely not all the same quality even within the same chipset family and low cost boards are low cost for a reason. Mid tiered boards are generally what I recommend as they generally have good quality but DO lack features found on higher end boards whereas low end board are, low end. That doesn't mean you can't get a decent board for a reasonable price. It requires a little research and some experience. As you know.

 

[Math Geek]

Also, the component quality, such as VRMs and their individual components, baseboard thickness, trace quality, conformal and protective coatings quality and a laundry list of other quality and feature variations, all determine why one board costs more than another. They are definitely not all the same quality even within the same chipset family and low cost boards are low cost for a reason. Mid tiered boards are generally what I recommend as they generally have good quality but DO lack features found on higher end boards whereas low end board are, low end. That doesn't mean you can't get a decent board for a reasonable price. It requires a little research and some experience. As you know.

Thanks for finishing my post. Was on my phone and only had time for a quick reply.

Figured the follow up questions would get the rest out from the group.

But you are definitely 100% correct here. So much to consider it's always overwhelming if your not experienced in the is and outs.

At least a 5600 is low power enough that the vrms and power delivery are not top end required

 

[Darkbreeze]

Keep in mind, this also includes a very good single stack Thermalright cooler that will keep your father from going absolutely nutty from the stock AMD cooling ramping up and down all the time. I've built MANY Ryzen systems by now and have two of my own, and I'm not exaggerating when I say you CAN get by with one of the stock Ryzen coolers, but you do NOT want to HAVE to if you don't. They are enough to keep it from melting down (so to speak) but the constant up and down and full speed operation will just take away any enjoyment you might have had.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($116.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($17.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B550M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($105.94 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($44.88 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASRock Challenger D Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.95 @ Newegg Sellers)
Power Supply: ADATA XPG Core Reactor II 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $693.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-05-31 13:11 EDT-0400

 

[Teknoman2]

What reviews? On Amazon? Newegg? Pffffffffffffft. Those aren't reviews. Those are knee jerk feedbacks from people who wouldn't know a power supply from a shoe fly.

Lol, i fell victim to those reviews about a game controller. Everyone said how good it is and well, built quality is indeed good but on ergonomics its the worst thing i've ever held in my hands.
Every time you fail to verify an Amazon review you gamble with your money.

 

[Math Geek]

For context I am building a PC with an RX6600 and Ryzen 5 5600, 32gb DDR4.

I heard the RX 9060 XT is coming out on the 5th. Would it be worth it to wait for it and pay the $70? Keep in mind that I also probably need the card before the 12th of June because I am travelling for summer and gifting the PC.

Thank you!

this would be a big gamble. all new releases have sold out in 2 minutes at 2x MSRP and take months to come back in stock at still inflated prices.

so yah it's likely a much better card but unless you're willing to pay double or even triple the price to get one ASAP, then you're cut off date means you'll be better off buying what you can now at a near msrp if you can find it.

 

[Darkbreeze]

this would be a big gamble. all new releases have sold out in 2 minutes at 2x MSRP and take months to come back in stock at still inflated prices.

so yah it's likely a much better card but unless you're willing to pay double or even triple the price to get one ASAP, then you're cut off date means you'll be better off buying what you can now at a near msrp if you can find it.

I was talking PSU.

 

[Samer_2]

Hi I am building a PC for my dad who wants to play Microsoft Flight Simulator. Would this be a good build?

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Qd2GRV

Would it be worth it to invest an extra $20 on an A tier PSU like the Core Reactor?

Also, I am gonna be flying back with this thing on quite a long international flight. Any tips to not completely break everything? Should I try to fit it all into my carry on?

Thank you!

 

[Lutfij]

Please stick to one thread unless you want spaghetti brains.

 

[Samer_2]

Please stick to one thread unless you want spaghetti brains.

My bad. I did not know that’s how you’re supposed to do it here. Will do that from now on!

 

[Samer_2]

Keep in mind, this also includes a very good single stack Thermalright cooler that will keep your father from going absolutely nutty from the stock AMD cooling ramping up and down all the time. I've built MANY Ryzen systems by now and have two of my own, and I'm not exaggerating when I say you CAN get by with one of the stock Ryzen coolers, but you do NOT want to HAVE to if you don't. They are enough to keep it from melting down (so to speak) but the constant up and down and full speed operation will just take away any enjoyment you might have had.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($116.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($17.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B550M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($105.94 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($44.88 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ASRock Challenger D Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.95 @ Newegg Sellers)
Power Supply: ADATA XPG Core Reactor II 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $693.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-05-31 13:11 EDT-0400

I will likely need it to be micro ATX just for ease of transportation on the flight. I should’ve mentioned that in my original post.

Although I am surprised you didn’t use an m.2? I thought those were the goto option these days. Also, is there something wrong with the motherboard I used in my updated build (B550M-K)? Then for the PSU I heard that with a build like mine you can get away with a C tier PSU like the MSI MAG. Though my dad is a heavy smoker, not sure if that affects the PSU and may cause a C tier to not hold up very well.

 

[Samer_2]

Also what’s this talk about dual rank vs single rank ram? I heard getting 4x8 is apparently a wiser choice?

 

[Teknoman2]

4x8 is better if the motherboard supports quad channel memory. Otherwise there is little to no benefit compared to 2x16. Motherboards that support quad channel are the most expensive models.

 

[geofelt]

Here are the requirements for flight simulator:
https://fseimg.imgix.net/2024/09/mi...pc-specs-Large.jpeg?auto=compress,format&q=90

Looking at the recommended specs, it would seem that 16 processing threads are recommended. The R5-5600 falls short with 12.
32gb of ram is recommended, your 16gb falls short.
Ram is not so expensive.
Take the psu comments from above to heart. A quality psu will have a 7 year warranty or better.
A failed psu takes out not only the PSU, but possibly the motherboard and other parts.
A graphics card upgrade is the most common upgrade. To that end, buy a stronger psu up front.
It will only use the power demanded of it.
The listing of requirements is a bit old.
Modern parts are better and cheaper.
R7-5700X might be appropriate, or the i5-13400 listed in the pre builts.
But, pre-builts are not designed to be upgraded, In particular, the PSU will be cheap and of minimal quality.

As to graphics cards, I no longer have a good appreciation of the merits of different cards.
You might go to Tom's GPU hierarchy charts for a decent comparison.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html