Question Is my motherboard zapped? ASUS B85M-G

codrintechno123

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Oct 2, 2017
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Hello. Recently I've been trying to reuse some of my old parts to make a system for my young sister.
I have an LGA1150 Asus B85M-G motherboard paired with an I3-4160 and 4x2 GB of ram.
My issue is, whenever I'd go ahead and push the start button the CPU fan would spin for 1 second and then stop. If I'd try to start up the system again the fan would not spin anymore.
The CPU is good, it's been my daily driver loads of years ago, Ram is good (tried swapping it around but no success), PSU is supposedly good since it was also my daily driver before I upgraded. (Thermaltake 500W 80+ PSU).
I cleaned the back of the CPU and reinstalled, cleaned the gold parts of the RAM, took out the CMOS battery for a while and reinstalled it, but nothing.
The only thing that could be faulty in my opinion is the motherboard.
I'm thinking the back of the motherboard could have gotten zapped by a standoff that had a missing screw. The system does not start on an open bench.
If there is really no quick fix, could this be fixed by a professional shop?
 
A stand-off with a missing screw does not cause a problem. BUT having a stand-off under the mobo where there is NO matching mounting hole in the mobo itself IS a problem that can short out a trace on the mobo back side. While that might cause permanent damage to the mobo, it might simply be that your system has such a flaw and there is no permanent damage. You just need to re-locate that stand-off to a correct location. There must NEVER be a stand-off under the mobo where there is NO matching mobo mounting hole.
 
A stand-off with a missing screw does not cause a problem. BUT having a stand-off under the mobo where there is NO matching mounting hole in the mobo itself IS a problem that can short out a trace on the mobo back side. While that might cause permanent damage to the mobo, it might simply be that your system has such a flaw and there is no permanent damage. You just need to re-locate that stand-off to a correct location. There must NEVER be a stand-off under the mobo where there is NO matching mobo mounting hole.
I will mention that this is NOT my main system. When trying to boot up the system it has only the essential things for it to boot. No GPU, No other fans, not even a mouse and keyboard plugged in.
It is always tested on the box of the motherboard, so not even in a case anymore. Only psu cables being used are the 4pin and the 24pin.
 
I will mention that this is NOT my main system. When trying to boot up the system it has only the essential things for it to boot. No GPU, No other fans, not even a mouse and keyboard plugged in.
It is always tested on the box of the motherboard, so not even in a case anymore. Only psu cables being used are the 4pin and the 24pin.
Try removing the CPU inspect the LGA closely for any pins that may not be aligned or bent correct Pins if possible reseat the CPU carefully and see if that's the issue or just helps?
 
OK, with that info about your testing in a bare-bones "breadboard" mode, I note that your description may indicate that the CPU cooling fan is NOT sending a speed signal back to the CPU_FAN header. The NORMAL operation of that header includes monitoring of that speed signal to ensure that the CPU cooler fan IS working. On many mobos if there is NO speed signal there the system will shut everything down quickly to avoid high-temperature damage to the CPU, without even waiting for the CPU's internal temperature to go high. After such a shut-down it may simply refuse so start up at all until there IS a speed signal almost instantly.

So, first item: is the CPU cooling fan plugged into the CPU_FAN header? If there is no cooing fan, OR if it is plugged into the wrong header, that will trigger this type of protective action.

Next, look at that fan's wires at the connector. Does it have three (or 4) wires? Particularly, check the wire to Hole #3 of the connector - does it seem well connected?

Next, IF the real CPU cooler is plugged into the CPU_FAN header, it may not be making good contact with Pin #3 of the header to return the speed signal. Try this simple trick. Unplug and re-connect that connector several times. Finish by plugging in, and try to start. This action MAY scrub oxidation off the contacts and solve the problem.

Last item if it's still not working. Try this TEMPORARY set-up as a test. Plug the real CPU cooler into another mobo fan header so it gets power and can run. Now plug a different fan that you are sure works into the CPU_FAN header. Try to boot up. IF this works, then the "other" fan has successfully sent a speed signal to the CPU_FAN header and it has been happy to keep going. But that also would indicate that, even though the real CPU cooler fan runs, apparently it cannot send a valid speed signal to its host header and that would trigger that protective action. In that case you may need a new fan.