Question My PC loses signal after a few seconds of gaming, then it won’t even POST ?

[Prime7410]

I’ve been having this issue and tried a lot of things, any help would be really apreciated.
English isn’t my first language so sorry for any misspelled words.

PC Specs
PSU: Aresgame AVG650
Mobo: ECS H410H6-M2
CPU: i3-10100
GPU: GTX 1660 SUPER HP OEM
RAM: 2 sticks
4 GB ADATA 2666
8 GB DEXTOR
————
My problem started recently, I changed my display from an old HP monitor to a old LCD LG TV, connected it through HDMI, and tried to play Star Wars: Jedi Survivor
I played for like 10 minutes before the no signal message appeared.
I rebooted the pc, and then it won’t even post

Tried to clean RAM sticks, took out gpu and cleaned it, reset the CMOS battery, even ussed DDU to reinstall clean drivers

After a few hours the pc will work again, but when trying to play a game, this will happen again.
If anyone knows how to figure if a component is faulty, or is a configuration issue, I’d be really grateful.
PS: I tested the psu with OCCT checking for stabilty issues, it worked perfectly fine.

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

PSU: Aresgame AVG650
How old is your PSU? If you remove the discrete GPU from your build, is your platform able to POST?

RAM: 2 sticks
4 GB ADATA 2666
8 GB DEXTOR
Try and work with one stick of ram.

What OS are you working with?

What sort of temps do you see when the black screen issue crops up? Speaking of the issue cropping up, which driver version are you installing for your GPU?

 

[beyondlogic]

I’ve been having this issue and tried a lot of things, any help would be really aprecciated
English isn’t my first language, sorry for any misspelled words
My PC:
PSU: Aresgame AVG650
Mobo: ECS H410H6-M2
CPU: i3-10100
GPU: GTX 1660 SUPER HP OEM
RAM: 2 sticks
4 GB ADATA 2666
8 GB DEXTOR
————
My problem started recently, I changed my display from an old HP monitor to a old LCD LG TV, connected it through HDMI, and tried to play Star Wars: Jedi Survivor
I played for like 10 minutes before the no signal message appeared.
I rebooted the pc, and then it won’t even post
Tried to clean RAM sticks, took out gpu and cleaned it, reset the CMOS battery, even ussed DDU to reinstall clean drivers
After a few hours the pc will work again, but when trying to play, this will happen again
If anyone knows how to figure if a component is faulty, or is a configuration issue, I’d be really grateful.
PD: I tested the psu with OCCT checking for stabilty issues, it worked perfectly fine

Replace dodgy PSU.

That PSU is not a 650w unit it only provides 588w on the 12v rail which is sketchy as hell.

Just because occt works doesn't make it reliable.

 

[williamjeremiah]

I’ve been having this issue and tried a lot of things, any help would be really aprecciated
English isn’t my first language, sorry for any misspelled words
My PC:
PSU: Aresgame AVG650
Mobo: ECS H410H6-M2
CPU: i3-10100
GPU: GTX 1660 SUPER HP OEM
RAM: 2 sticks
4 GB ADATA 2666
8 GB DEXTOR
————
My problem started recently, I changed my display from an old HP monitor to a old LCD LG TV, connected it through HDMI, and tried to play Star Wars: Jedi Survivor
I played for like 10 minutes before the no signal message appeared.
I rebooted the pc, and then it won’t even post
Tried to clean RAM sticks, took out gpu and cleaned it, reset the CMOS battery, even ussed DDU to reinstall clean drivers
After a few hours the pc will work again, but when trying to play, this will happen again
If anyone knows how to figure if a component is faulty, or is a configuration issue, I’d be really grateful.
PD: I tested the psu with OCCT checking for stabilty issues, it worked perfectly fine

Obtain a more reliable PSU, to address the signal loss issue & a matched set (2 DIMMs/sticks) of DDR4 memory would increase performance by allowing dual channel.

 

[Prime7410]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

PSU: Aresgame AVG650
How old is your PSU? If you remove the discrete GPU from your build, is your platform able to POST?

RAM: 2 sticks
4 GB ADATA 2666
8 GB DEXTOR
Try and work with one stick of ram.

What OS are you working with?

What sort of temps do you see when the black screen issue crops up? Speaking of the issue cropping up, which driver version are you installing for your GPU?

PSU is around 2 years old
Will try to boot the pc with the conditions that you suggested
I use Windows 11
Not really sure about temps, will try to test them
Driver version is 572.83

 

[Prime7410]

Replace dodgy PSU.

That PSU is not a 650w unit it only provides 588w on the 12v rail which is sketchy as hell.

Just because occt works doesn't make it reliable.

Any advice on what psu to buy?
I'm a broke college student, so buying a very expensive psu is off the table for me, plus, I live in south america, so pc parts are more expensive around here.
I was thinking of a Corsair cx 650 - 750
Is it future proof if I intend to get a 10th or 11th gen I5-i7
Or if I upgrade my gpu to a rtx 3060?

 

[Prime7410]

Obtain a more reliable PSU, to address the signal loss issue & a matched set (2 DIMMs/sticks) of DDR4 memory would increase performance by allowing dual channel.

Any suggestion on the psu I should get?

 

[Misgar]

I was thinking of a Corsair cx 650 - 750

The CX650 PSU gets a good write up here:-
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-cx650-power-supply-review

Your CPU has a nominal 65W rating and the recommended PSU for a GTX1660 is at least 300W, so the CX650 will be more than adequate and should be more stable than the AresGame. A low quality PSU can cause problems, even when run well within its limits.

RAM: 2 sticks
4 GB ADATA 2666
8 GB DEXTOR

As others have said, running mismatched DIMMs of two different sizes is not a good idea. If you can manage with only 8GB, remove the 4GB DIMM. A pair of identical 8GB DIMMs (16GB total) would be a better idea. Do not just go out and buy another random 8GB DIMM. They need to be matched for better stability.

Before you invest in a new PSU, download MemTest86 and install on a USB flash drive, then boot the PC from USB and run a complete pass of MemTest to check RAM.
https://www.memtest86.com/

Test each DIMM on its own, then test both DIMMs together. Any errors in MemTest and you need to replace the bad DIMM(s).

If you're overclocking the RAM with XMP, switch off XMP and see if the system is more stable. You need to run MemTest again if you enable/disable XMP. The stock JEDEC speed for DDR4 is usually 2133 or 2400MT/s.

I also recommend running DISM and SFC on your OS drive. There might be corrupted files in Windows.
https://teamsbackground.net/how-to-use-sfc-and-dism-to-repair-windows-11-system-files/