[SOLVED] New build PSU fails to power on the majority of components

jamesmith29

Prominent
Jan 9, 2018
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Greetings all,
Apologies in advance for the long post and if I have it in the wrong section
SPECS:
PSU: Antec 650wEdge Gold
MOBO: ASRock Z390 Taichi
CPU: Intel Core I7 9700k
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 CPU cooler
RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 2x8gb DDR4
Graphics Card: Galaxtic GTX 2060
Fans: 3 Noctua NF Redux\ 3 Corsair Case Stock Fans
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250gb\ Samsung 860 EVO 500gb

Recently bought new parts to replace my current system. Everything is new EXCEPT the graphics card and PSU.
I’m having an issue when I power the PC.
  • MOBO lights turn on, front IO LED’S and power button works
  • Case fans attempts to turn on/stutters. Some of them eventually do however spins at a low RPM
  • CPU Fan doesn’t spin or power on at all
  • Graphics card doesn’t appear to power on/ fan doesn’t spin at all

I’ve tried:
  • Reseating the RAM, different slots and only 1 stick, no change
  • Double checked, the CPU itself and the motherboard socket/pins. No damage and it’s seated properly.
  • Triple checked all of the power connections and reseated them
  • Powering on without the CPU cooler or SSD’s plugged in, no change
  • Mobo did have a few different error codes, looked them up in the manual, “A7” problem with SATA drives unplug and reset CMOS try again. Followed and no change.
  • The other code was 4C, not in the manual only thing on forums I could find was “4C - OEM post memory initialization codes”

The graphics card and PSU worked perfectly in my old built until I switched it to my new build. Could it be that 650w is not enough power?
I noticed that my mobo has an 8 pin and 4 pin CPU power connector. From my understanding the extra 4 pin slot is for extreme overclocking when needing more power. Unfortunately I don’t have the a separate 4 pin power cable with my PSU to test if giving it extra juice will help.

Anyway I suspect it’s the PSU but if anyone else has other opinions please let me know.
Thanks
 
Solution
The graphics card and PSU worked perfectly in my old built until I switched it to my new build. Could it be that 650w is not enough power?
650W is enough to power a 2080 Ti. Problem is not quantity, it's quality. The EDGE PSUs are OK, not great necessarily. Have you confirmed if it works in your previous rig again? If you've had it a while, the EDGE PSUs aren't necessarily long living PSUs.

Guide that may be worth triple checking over: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...ng-about-post-boot-no-video-problems.1285536/

Powering on without the CPU cooler or SSD’s plugged in, no change
This should never be done, and hopefully no damage has succumbed to the CPU, the CPU heats up in...

PC Tailor

Illustrious
Ambassador
The graphics card and PSU worked perfectly in my old built until I switched it to my new build. Could it be that 650w is not enough power?
650W is enough to power a 2080 Ti. Problem is not quantity, it's quality. The EDGE PSUs are OK, not great necessarily. Have you confirmed if it works in your previous rig again? If you've had it a while, the EDGE PSUs aren't necessarily long living PSUs.

Guide that may be worth triple checking over: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...ng-about-post-boot-no-video-problems.1285536/

Powering on without the CPU cooler or SSD’s plugged in, no change
This should never be done, and hopefully no damage has succumbed to the CPU, the CPU heats up in seconds, and can overheat and fry within seconds. Most CPUs should shut themselves down before damage, but without a CPU cooler, sometimes that failsafe doesn't have time to react.

I noticed that my mobo has an 8 pin and 4 pin CPU power connector. From my understanding the extra 4 pin slot is for extreme overclocking when needing more power. Unfortunately I don’t have the a separate 4 pin power cable with my PSU to test if giving it extra juice will help.
They are, but some boards don't play nice without it populated, so it's always best practice to populate it. and usually only 750W PSUs tend to have this connection.

Have you tried running without GPU at all and running on integrated?
Does literally nothing happen when you press the power button?
 
Solution

jamesmith29

Prominent
Jan 9, 2018
7
1
515
650W is enough to power a 2080 Ti. Problem is not quantity, it's quality. The EDGE PSUs are OK, not great necessarily. Have you confirmed if it works in your previous rig again? If you've had it a while, the EDGE PSUs aren't necessarily long living PSUs.

Guide that may be worth triple checking over: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...ng-about-post-boot-no-video-problems.1285536/


This should never be done, and hopefully no damage has succumbed to the CPU, the CPU heats up in seconds, and can overheat and fry within seconds. Most CPUs should shut themselves down before damage, but without a CPU cooler, sometimes that failsafe doesn't have time to react.


They are, but some boards don't play nice without it populated, so it's always best practice to populate it. and usually only 750W PSUs tend to have this connection.

Have you tried running without GPU at all and running on integrated?
Does literally nothing happen when you press the power button?

In hindsight not having the heatsink or CPU fan on wasn't the smartest idea. Tired and annoyed.

Anyway I tried your advice. Took out the GPU and just used the integrated graphics. By this stage I had also unscrewed and re-screwed the backplate and heatsink. Booted the PC and everything successfully powered on.

All the fans including the CPU etc... Plugged in the graphics card, still powers only, granted I used a different PCI-E slot.

Temps look stable so far.

Iv'e had issues in the past with heatsinks and back mounting plates where I have had to re-screw them multiple times I reckon that in combination with your suggestions was the issue.

Do you recommend later later down the track I upgrade the PSU? For longevity and quality sake. I do have a RX 5700 XT special edition pre-ordered.
 

PC Tailor

Illustrious
Ambassador
In hindsight not having the heatsink or CPU fan on wasn't the smartest idea. Tired and annoyed.

Anyway I tried your advice. Took out the GPU and just used the integrated graphics. By this stage I had also unscrewed and re-screwed the backplate and heatsink. Booted the PC and everything successfully powered on.

All the fans including the CPU etc... Plugged in the graphics card, still powers only, granted I used a different PCI-E slot.

Temps look stable so far.

Iv'e had issues in the past with heatsinks and back mounting plates where I have had to re-screw them multiple times I reckon that in combination with your suggestions was the issue.

Do you recommend later later down the track I upgrade the PSU? For longevity and quality sake. I do have a RX 5700 XT special edition pre-ordered.
Glad to hear everything looks stable!
How long have you had the PSU?

Its good just not great, and a budget line so it may just be worth considering if you've had it a little while, PSUs have a shelf life :)
 

jamesmith29

Prominent
Jan 9, 2018
7
1
515
Glad to hear everything looks stable!
How long have you had the PSU?

Its good just not great, and a budget line so it may just be worth considering if you've had it a little while, PSUs have a shelf life :)

Honestly Iv'e had it for about a year and a half, I have no problem upgrading it to something high end. Got a good PSU tier list too so I'll take my pick. Longevity is the plan so definitely worth it.

Thanks again for your help
 
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