Question New Hyte Revolt 3 ITX build - crashes randomly after boot w/ black screen and fans blasting?

Mar 27, 2023
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This is my second PC build here, which is an ITX build using the new Hyte Revolt 3 case with included power supply. Unlike my last ATX build back in 2014, I am encountering numerous issues with this one. Most of which I have been able to overcome with a little bit of ingenuity and a lot of research (thank you tomshardware.com (y)) but am stumped on the latest major one which causes my system to crash at random loads and default to a black screen with AIO fans blasting at full power. At this point, I am forced to do a hard shutdown using the PSU switch and wait for about 10-20 mins before the device will turn back on and reboot.

List of gear w / notes:

  • CASE -Hyte Revolt 3 with included power supply:
    • I find this case to be very innovative in how it is set up to accomodate large radiators, multiple drives, and large GPUs. Albeit, it is a crammed case and a little tough to work with. But you have to love that it is super-servicable with the pop-out panels and radiator door!
  • MoBo: ASROCK Z690 Phantom ITX:
    • This is actually my third board I started with an ASUS RogStrix which would not make it past POST. Second board was the same as my current one (Z690 Phantom), This one ran initially, but I then started to have issues with the 5 beep code. After that, the unit would not post and I was advised by ASROCK to RMA the board since they could not diagnose. On my third iteration here, and am able to actually post, bootup, and game for long hours when it is not crashing intermittently. I will note the presence of the red light near the RAM has been constant. Outside of these things, system functions normally when not crashing
    • I will also say that I am glad that I saved my internal chirper / speaker from my last build to give me the beep codes on this one. This mobo did not come with that, and I would probably be lost without it.
  • CPU: -Intel Core I5 12400
    • After much troubleshooting, my initial thought was that this processor may be the cause of my issues. However I have tested this quite a bit under load, including with Cinebench, and it seems to perform quite well. The AIO cooler I am using seems to keep temps for the CPU under 40c. So my instincts tell me that the process is not the issue
  • GPU - Intel Arc A750, 8gb:
    • So I decided to try out the new Intel card. Overall, I am impressed. Except that this thing seems to run super hot, and I do rely on the Arc Control Center software to keep the temps under 80c. Otherwise this thing seems to heat my whole case up quite quickly even when playing Valheim. I do have an extra fan on the way that I am planning to use as exhaust near where the GPU sits. Aside from the heat issues, this is a beefy card at a reasonable price (I got if off Newegg for about $250).
    • One issue I had with the card had to do with the audio being routed from HDMI to my TV and then to my amp via RCA cable. There seemed to be some significant buzzing or ground hum introduced. I got around this by using the optical out on the Mobo instead for a much cleaner sound!
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance 5200 DDR5(2x 16gb)
    • At one point I thought the RAM might be the culprit here due to the persistent red light on the Mobo and from research here. I have done the RAM swap-dance a few times now with no consistent results. In other words, I either crash randomly or will get hours of performance independent of which stick is in which slot. So I knind of want to rule out the RAM here.
  • SSDs:
    • I am running 4 SSDs, including two new M.2 drives
      • ADATA Legend 840 (512gb) runs my OS, which is Windows 11
      • PNY XLR8 CS3040 1tb runs all my programs, including Steam geams
      • Old Kingston and Samsung drives are striped as one, and basically handle data storage.
    • No real issues here. The M.2 drives tend to run a little hot between 50-60c, but I don't see any performance issues here
  • Cooling - Deepcool LS520 AIO
    • I absolutely love this all-in-one cooler, and how it integrates into the Hyte Revolt 3 case. The two fans are daisy chained and attached to the radiator, which is attached to a cool door you can open to get to the guts of the machine quickly! I currently have it running as an intake to bring in cool air to the environment. As stated above, this keeps my CPU at a nice, frosty 35-38c on average. The ARGB effects are a nice plus as well
    • Only real complaint here is the hoses kind of have to be crammed into the case, even when coiled. You have to be careful that they don't get caught in the fan blades.
  • PSU - (ibuypower??) 700W, SFX 80 PLUS GOLD
    • This is where things get interesting. There are little to no real reviews or info to be found on this PSU, which comes with the Hyte Revolt 3 case as a bundle deal. I am suspicious that this might be a faulty PSU, and in doing some research here and across the interwebs this theory does seem to hold water. But without pulling the supply and trying to testing with a multimeter, the is no way to know for sure to the best of my knowledge. I really don't want to start sticking paper clips in things either, lol! At this point, I am ready to swap it out with a Corsair SF750
Aside from a faulty PSU, my only other guess is that there is some sort of thermal shutoff on the mobo which might be freaking out due to the high temps that the Arc A750 puts out. However, the shutdowns happen randomly enough that I am unsure.

I have updated drivers at this point, ran SFC, swapped RAM, tinkered with BIOS settings and tested using defaults, etc, etc. I am not overclocking anything at this point, and have RAM running at 4800, which is the default.

I am leaning towards a faulty PSU, but I I could be wrong.

Thoughts? Am I missing something here?
 

NaClKnight

Prominent
Dec 7, 2022
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I use this exact case in an AMD build (see my signature) so i know that case and PSU well.

You could use OCCT or HWInfo to log your temps/wattage/frequencies and then try to recreate the problem.

Given that you had 3 MBs in this build alone, did you confirm that this iteration worked before you installed it into your case?

Also this is obligatory but have you updated your BIOS/chipset drivers?

I would also recommend using OCCT to stress the PSU by loading the GPU and CPU simultaneously to see if you can trigger the failure. Having to wait that long after a failure before the PSU will cooperate again does not sound right. When I've tripped PSUs in the past they've usually started right back up after toggling their I/O power switch
 
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Mar 27, 2023
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I use this exact case in an AMD build (see my signature) so i know that case and PSU well.

You could use OCCT or HWInfo to log your temps/wattage/frequencies and then try to recreate the problem.

Given that you had 3 MBs in this build alone, did you confirm that this iteration worked before you installed it into your case?

Also this is obligatory but have you updated your BIOS/chipset drivers?

I would also recommend using OCCT to stress the PSU by loading the GPU and CPU simultaneously to see if you can trigger the failure. Having to wait that long after a failure before the PSU will cooperate again does not sound right. When I've tripped PSUs in the past they've usually started right back up after toggling their I/O power switch
Thank you for the reply. I have double-checked that BIOS version is up-to-date (11.01 as of 3/7/23). i do run CPUID HWMONITOR pretty regularly. With the cooling setup, I get pretty good temps for PC and Mobo that don't really go above 50c even when under load. That goes for almost all components except for the M.2 drive which run between 50-60c and the damn GPU which can get up to 90 if I don't set parameters via Arc Control.

At this point, the device will not even power on, so further testing is not possible. I pre-emptively ordered a Corsair SF750 which should arrive tomorrow. Fingers crossed here that this is the issue, but I am almost convinced that it is . Everything else seems to be in working order, except perhaps that the red light has been constant on the Mobo even when things were running ok. I can't really explain that.

To answer your other Q about the Mobos; I was able to run, post, and game off the 2nd Mobo which was the ASROCK Z690. At some point it started giving me 5 beep codes and stopped running. I am wondering if the pins in the LGA 1700 socket got bent somehow. I am not a fan of these new Intel sockets, as there is too much margin of error here with pins getting bent, destroyed, etc.
 
Mar 27, 2023
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to have a look what the problem could be:
run userbenchmark.com and post the http link of your result, e.g. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/28977730
Thank you! I did run the benchmark test but was unable to bookmark the link before the system crashed on me, for the final time. What I can remember, is that the benchmark data indicated that my components were Good to Very Good, with some running somewhat below expected benchmarks. Data on the SSD / M.2 drives was inconclusive for some reason.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
  • PSU - (ibuypower??) 700W, SFX 80 PLUS GOLD
    • This is where things get interesting. There are little to no real reviews or info to be found on this PSU, which comes with the Hyte Revolt 3 case as a bundle deal. I am suspicious that this might be a faulty PSU, and in doing some research here and across the interwebs this theory does seem to hold water. But without pulling the supply and trying to testing with a multimeter, the is no way to know for sure to the best of my knowledge. I really don't want to start sticking paper clips in things either, lol! At this point, I am ready to swap it out with a Corsair SF750

I am leaning towards a faulty PSU, but I I could be wrong.

Thoughts? Am I missing something here?

I’d be willing to bet that it’s the PSU in this case. If you can’t find any information on it, and it was the built-in one, then it’s most likely junk. iBUYPOWER is notorious for cutting corners on its’ PSUs. I’d look at replacing with something like the SF750 ASAP.
 
Mar 27, 2023
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I’d be willing to bet that it’s the PSU in this case. If you can’t find any information on it, and it was the built-in one, then it’s most likely junk. iBUYPOWER is notorious for cutting corners on its’ PSUs. I’d look at replacing with something like the SF750 ASAP.
I hope so! I just don't get what could go wrong with it though, pushing at 700W with "Plus Gold" efficiency. I wish I was an EE and could diagnose that better..

Anywho, new PSU is in house now and I will put it in today. Fingers crossed!
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
I hope so! I just don't get what could go wrong with it though, pushing at 700W with "Plus Gold" efficiency. I wish I was an EE and could diagnose that better..

Anywho, new PSU is in house now and I will put it in today. Fingers crossed!

It's more about build quality than efficiency. You can have a platinum rated PSU but if it's a poor build with low quality capacitors, it will still be prone to failure.. As I said before, iBUYPOWER is notorious in PC forums for cutting corners with their their cheap and low quality, no name power supplies, among other components. And there's a lot of that out there, but of all the system builders and OEMs, we see more problems with iBUYPOWER / Cyberpower than almost any other brand. This might be the first I've seen something like this with Hyte, though it is not surprising. A good rule of thumb is that if you can't find any information on it in a Google search then I wouldn't trust it.
 
Mar 27, 2023
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UPDATE: I swapped in the new PSU and motherboard remained inaccessible. I took it to a pro for a second assessment, and they feel that the problem was with the Mobo all along. They tested all other components outside of the CPU and they were fine. They recommended replacing the Mobo with a "non-ASRock" model, so I replaced with the ASUS RogStrix Z690i.

So far so good! I like that the new board seems robust in terms of its VRMs, heat syncs, and cooling capabilities. Also, the search feature in the onboard BIOS came in very handy! I have had one instance of the machine rebooting and fading to black, but was able to restart and get back into Windows in under 10 mins.

My working theory right now is that the Intel Arc GPU's heat dissapation seems to be the culprit in burning out my mobos somehow. I have noticed chipset temps of around 70-80c even when other components are between 40-50c, including mobo and CPU. My current strategy consists of aggressive cooling by optimizing all fan settings as well as the potential purchase of a backup GPU that is comparable to Arc A750 but with much lower draw and TDP (let me know if anyone has any suggestions here for cards that they like).