Question PC no signal error messages. Tried everything I can think of. please help

[Noah maq21]

HELP!
I have had a ROG strix pre built pc for over 5 years now. In terms of specs it is a FX10CS_GL10CS, intel i5-9400F, GeForce gtx1650 4GB, HDD 1TB, SSD 256GB (M.2 PCIE). A few months ago I upgraded it with another 8GB RAM to add to the 8GB it came with. I’ve had no problems and it was very beneficial. Today, I got a new monitor (MSI G2422C) and I connected it up and everything worked fine through a game of BFV Breakthrough. I then pressed the update and shut down for windows and ever since then the ‘HDMI no signal’ error message come up. I’ve powered on and off multiple times, removed graphics card to check PCIE is fine and it is on both sides no pin damage at all. I also cleared out all the dust but to no avail. I then removed the CMOS battery for 10 mins to try and clear BIOS. Pc turned on and it turned off and then on and off and then on but the result was the same in that the no signal error message came up. HDMI cables and monitors are also fine: I checked with my laptop and it connected. Is my graphics card finally dead? I would appreciate any help or guidance immensely.

 

[Ralston18]

PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition (original to build, new, used, refurbished)?

 

[Noah maq21]

PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition (original to build, new, used, refurbished)?

I’m not sure, it is the original PSU that came with the pre built. The pre built was manufactured in December 2019 so possibly some time around then. Attached is a photo of it. Thank you for your help also.

https://imgur.com/a/DiLTlVa

 

[JayGau]

Do you ever see anything else than a black screen and the no-signal in the process? If you don't see the BIOS prompt it's most likely a hardware issue. In this case you could try to remove all the RAM sticks but one. If it still doesn't work, switch it with another stick (just to make sure the one you left in is not the faulty one). If it still doesn't work after that it's likely not the RAM. Too bad you have a "F" CPU. Would have been easy to test if it's a GPU problem if you had integrated graphics.

If you see something and Windows is trying to load before you get the no signal then it's likely a Windows issue and you could boot in rescue mode and uninstall the latest update or do a system restore.

 

[Noah maq21]

Do you ever see anything else than a black screen and the no-signal in the process? If you don't see the BIOS prompt it's most likely a hardware issue. In this case you could try to remove all the RAM sticks but one. If it still doesn't work, switch it with another stick (just to make sure the one you left in is not the faulty one). If it still doesn't work after that it's likely not the RAM. Too bad you have a "F" CPU. Would have been easy to test if it's a GPU problem if you had integrated graphics.

If you see something and Windows is trying to load before you get the no signal then it's likely a Windows issue and you could boot in rescue mode and uninstall the latest update or do a system restore.

Thank you so much. I’m going to have a go at that now and hopefully it fixes it but I have little hope at this point lol

 

[Ralston18]

A 5 year old PSU is certainly a prime suspect.

May be nearing or even at its' designed in EOL (End of Life). Especially with a history of gaming use etc. I am not familar with the brand and will defer to others who may post about the brand and/or that PSU.

Did you unscrew the PSU and perhaps other components to get the photograph? I see a HDD in the background that seems to be just laying there versus being securely mounted.

= = = =

Things you can do now:

Look in Reliabililty History/Monitor for error codes, warnings, or even informational event that may have been logged just before or at the time of the "no signal" error messages. (There are other tools that can be used - Reliability History/Monitor being end user friendly and provides a graphical format that may reveal patterns.)

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Clean out as much more dust and debris as you can.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers, and case connections are fully and firmly in place.

Inspect for signs of damage: bare conductor showing, melting, pinched or kinked wires, loose or missing screws, cracks, browned or blackened areas, swollen components, corrosion - anything amiss.

Secure the PSU to the case and the drive in a drive bay if possible. Purpose to ensure that they are not moving and wiggling wires etc. loose. Also that they have airflows around them to help keep cool.

Mostly a process of elimination to narrow down the possible culprit.

 

[Noah maq21]

Do you ever see anything else than a black screen and the no-signal in the process? If you don't see the BIOS prompt it's most likely a hardware issue. In this case you could try to remove all the RAM sticks but one. If it still doesn't work, switch it with another stick (just to make sure the one you left in is not the faulty one). If it still doesn't work after that it's likely not the RAM. Too bad you have a "F" CPU. Would have been easy to test if it's a GPU problem if you had integrated graphics.

If you see something and Windows is trying to load before you get the no signal then it's likely a Windows issue and you could boot in rescue mode and uninstall the latest update or do a system restore.

Nope, didn’t work sadly still just went to no signal straight away for both rams. I’ve ordered a dp cable just in case the issue is only with the hdmi port. Either way it’s annoying since then I won’t be able to use dual monitors even if it does work.

 

[Noah maq21]

A 5 year old PSU is certainly a prime suspect.

May be nearing or even at its' designed in EOL (End of Life). Especially with a history of gaming use etc. I am not familar with the brand and will defer to others who may post about the brand and/or that PSU.

Did you unscrew the PSU and perhaps other components to get the photograph? I see a HDD in the background that seems to be just laying there versus being securely mounted.

= = = =

Things you can do now:

Look in Reliabililty History/Monitor for error codes, warnings, or even informational event that may have been logged just before or at the time of the "no signal" error messages. (There are other tools that can be used - Reliability History/Monitor being end user friendly and provides a graphical format that may reveal patterns.)

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Clean out as much more dust and debris as you can.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers, and case connections are fully and firmly in place.

Inspect for signs of damage: bare conductor showing, melting, pinched or kinked wires, loose or missing screws, cracks, browned or blackened areas, swollen components, corrosion - anything amiss.

Secure the PSU to the case and the drive in a drive bay if possible. Purpose to ensure that they are not moving and wiggling wires etc. loose. Also that they have airflows around them to help keep cool.

Mostly a process of elimination to narrow down the possible culprit.

Yes, I unscrewed the PSU from the case to see the label. And yes there is a hdd behind it but it’s mounted on the frame of the case. I’ve checked all the wiring and other than dust there are no irregularities at all. I’m not sure how to get reliability history since it doesn’t go to the monitor?

 

[Ralston18]

Seems to be narrowing down to needing another known working GPU to swap into the system.

That said, remember that PSUs provide three different voltages (3.3, 5, and 12) to various system components.

So the system may appear to be on and "working" even if one voltage has failed or gone out of tolerance.

Do you have another known working PSU that could be swapped in? That is another option with regards to the troublesome PC.

(If you swap PSUs remember to use only the cables that come with the swapped in PSU.)

 

[Noah maq21]

Seems to be narrowing down to needing another known working GPU to swap into the system.

That said, remember that PSUs provide three different voltages (3.3, 5, and 12) to various system components.

So the system may appear to be on and "working" even if one voltage has failed or gone out of tolerance.

Do you have another known working PSU that could be swapped in? That is another option with regards to the troublesome PC.

(If you swap PSUs remember to use only the cables that come with the swapped in PSU.)

No I don’t but if the display port cable doesn’t work which I’d be inclined to guess that it won’t, then I will just have to buy a new PSU since I don’t have another one.