Question PC randomly shuts off while gaming, but RGB stays on ?

Jul 7, 2024
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In the past couple of weeks while gaming, my computer has suddenly powered off with no warning. When this occurs, strangely, the PC's internal RGB remains on, while everything else powers off. My fans stop spinning, monitors stop receiving signals, and power button doesn’t do anything until I physically restart my power supply with the switch on the back.

Again, there is no warning for such occurring, the PC just simply powers off and there seems to be no rhyme or reason. I’ve had it occur several hours into a gaming session and only a couple minutes. I have scrolled through my Windows event viewer and found nothing relevant, but then again, I’m not the most experienced with Event Viewer so I could have missed something.

I originally thought this was simply an issue caused by Overwatch 2 (which was the only game that caused this to occur) but recently the issue has been occuring while playing Baldur's Gate 3 too.

I have monitored by temperatures and cooling is adequate (only my GPU's VRAM came anywhere close to 80 C, with everything else stabilizing around 60 C).

My working theory is that my power supply is dying on me, but I’m hoping for alternative theories since Segotep is gonna charge me $20 to ship a replacement.

It should be noted that this only started occurring recently. My PC ran fine for several months prior to this and all of the parts are 14 months old at the most (my GPU, PSU, and game SSD are less than a year old).

Any help would be appreciated. Linked is a parts list. If it’s relevant, I do overclock my GPU, but I had been doing this for months with no issues as previously mentioned and even then I haven’t being doing it “correctly” (I haven’t been undervolting as well as tweaking my frequencies as needed with RDNA 3 cards). I can provide any information if needed.

So far I've tried:
- Reseating my RAM
- Updating my BIOS
- Updating my GPU drivers
- Going to another PC help forum that banned me for not replying within 2 days.

I'm having AMD log my games now, so next time my PC crashes I should have some more info.

Edit: The AMD log does not persist through a crash so I cannot provide one, sorry 🙁

Thank you!
 
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Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Updating my GPU drivers
Please elaborate on how you did this.

Try and source(borrow, not buy) a reliably built higher wattage PSU and see if the issue is alleviated. If so, you can use that as info when initiating an RMA with Segotep/your seller.
 
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Updating my GPU drivers
Please elaborate on how you did this.

Try and source(borrow, not buy) a reliably built higher wattage PSU and see if the issue is alleviated. If so, you can use that as info when initiating an RMA with Segotep/your seller.

I just used the AMD software to update my drivers. I doubt I can get my hands on another PSU. Is mine not good? I thought B-Tier was perfectly acceptable 850W...
 
does the pc just power off or does the pc restart ?. are you using windows 11 ?
The PC powers off. The internal RGB remains on and I cannot reboot the PC until I physically switch my PSU off (or unplug by power chord) as my power button doesn't work.

I'm on Windows 10.

This crash happened again not 5 minutes ago while playing BG3.
 
The PC powers off. The internal RGB remains on and I cannot reboot the PC until I physically switch my PSU off (or unplug by power chord) as my power button doesn't work.

I'm on Windows 10.

This crash happened again not 5 minutes ago while playing BG3.

that def seems like a power supply issue if the rgb is still on ( spoiler it shouldnt be remaining on what rgb are you using. or is it just the fans ?
 
that def seems like a power supply issue if the rgb is still on ( spoiler it shouldnt be remaining on what rgb are you using. or is it just the fans ?

I'll have to see if I can get another crash since I'm not sure, but from what I can remember sometimes the fan RGB remains on and other times it turns off. The RAM RGB always remains on.
 
that def seems like a power supply issue if the rgb is still on ( spoiler it shouldnt be remaining on what rgb are you using. or is it just the fans ?

Follow up question,

Is my specific PSU bad? Another "pro" on a separate forum said it was "cheap" and said "B-Tier" was not good. I thought A,B, and even C-tier PSU were fine???
 
Is mine not good? I thought B-Tier was perfectly acceptable 850W...
PSU's, like all electronic devices, can come DoA or faulty out of the box due to a mishap on an assembly line. You're also assuming that a PSU won't be subjected to wear and tear.

I suggested the PSU since you're assuming it's the PSU and you don't seem like you want to fork out $20 over a round trip. I can understand that but then again, if you go through all this and the problem hasn't been resolved, wouldn't you have been better off not spending the $20 to begin with? You're also looking at $20, what about the time and effort(resources) spent towards this troubleshooting process...?

Contact a friend or neighbor and see if they have one, which is why I said borrow, not buy.

You use DDU to remove all GPU drivers(Intel, Nvidia and AMD) from your platform in Safe Mode, then manually reinstall with the latest GPU drivers in an elevated command.

Going to another PC help forum that banned me for not replying within 2 days.
This is odd, what site would have a 2 day ban for you not responding to your own thread?
 
In the past couple weeks, while gaming, my computer has suddenly powered off with no warning. When this occurs, strangely, the PC's internal RGB remains on, while everything else powers off. My fans stop spinning, monitors stop receiving signals, and power button doesn’t do anything until I physically restart my power supply with the switch on the back.

Again, there is no warning for such occurring, the PC just simply powers off and there seems to be no rhyme or reason. I’ve had it occur several hours into a gaming session and only a couple minutes. I have scrolled through my Windows event viewer and found nothing relevant, but then again, I’m not the most experienced with Event Viewer so I could have missed something.

I originally thought this was simply an issue caused by Overwatch 2 (which was the only game that caused this to occur) but recently the issue has been occuring while playing Baldur's Gate 3 too.

I have monitored by temperatures and cooling is adequate (only my GPU's VRAM came anywhere close to 80 C, with everything else stabilizing around 60 C).

My working theory is that my power supply is dying on me, but I’m hoping for alternative theories since Segotep is gonna charge me $20 to ship a replacement.

It should be noted that this only started occurring recently. My PC ran fine for several months prior to this and all of the parts are 14 months old at the most (my GPU, PSU, and game SSD are less than a year old).

Any help would be appreciated. Linked is a parts list. If it’s relevant, I do overclock my GPU, but I had been doing this for months with no issues as previously mentioned and even then I haven’t being doing it “correctly” (I haven’t been undervolting as well as tweaking my frequencies as needed with RDNA 3 cards). I can provide any information if needed.

So far I've tried:
- Reseating my RAM
- Updating my BIOS
- Updating my GPU drivers
- Going to another PC help forum that banned me for not replying within 2 days.

I'm having AMD log my games now, so next time my PC crashes I should have some more info.

Edit: The AMD log does not persist through a crash so I cannot provide one, sorry 🙁

Thank you!

Just some thoughts here...

You might try to get some readings of actual power usage, as peaks in power draw could possibly be crashing the system (this is commonly known as 'transient surge'). The PSU's rated wattage meets the GPU's requirements, but it may not be delivering what it's supposed to.

You should also probably check the fine print in your motherboard manual to be sure nothing is cutting your x16 slot to x8, or less (some share bandwidth with certain M.2 slots or SATA ports, and cut x16 speed when they are in use). Also, not sure if this necessarily applies to the RX 7800 XT, but from my understanding, some AMD GPUs absolutely HATE PCIe3.0 speeds as well. You may want to check your motherboard BIOS settings. Some allow individual PCIe slot speed to be limited to 3.0 vs 4.0, which might be a factor if set to 3.0.

While I know this is not a Ryzen build, one thing that I've seen to be of particular issue with Ryzen, is that they are VERY fussy about RAM. I found out the hard way (across three builds) that following the board manufacturer's QVL (Qualified Vendor List -- aka memory and SSD compatibility list) is a very good idea with Ryzen if you want guaranteed stability. An Intel build could very well be subject to such restrictions.

That said, the first clue here might be that the QVL for your motherboard does not, in fact, list any 3600 DIMMs as compatible, by any manufacturer. The slowest DIMMs listed as compatible are 4000, the slowest TeamGroup kit listed is 4800. I'd say there's a good chance that your problem lies therein. The DIMMs may simply not be fast enough to be stable on this board, and if that's the case, quite frankly, I'm surprised it runs at all.

To give you an idea, I've had three systems do the following with DIMMs the board did not like (none of which were on the board manufactuer's QVL)... Swapping the DIMMs to manufacturer QVL-approved kits solved these problems on all three and they all run perfectly. None of these kits produced errors in memtest86 or any other testing, either.

BIOS showed them at different speeds.

Shutting down mid-game with the fans wide open, sometimes with RGB, sometimes without.

Refusal to wake from sleep.

No-video POST every 8-10 cold boot cycles (memory training issue).

Constant hour-glass cursor in Windows.

Hope this helps.
 
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Is mine not good? I thought B-Tier was perfectly acceptable 850W...
PSU's, like all electronic devices, can come DoA or faulty out of the box due to a mishap on an assembly line. You're also assuming that a PSU won't be subjected to wear and tear.

I suggested the PSU since you're assuming it's the PSU and you don't seem like you want to fork out $20 over a round trip. I can understand that but then again, if you go through all this and the problem hasn't been resolved, wouldn't you have been better off not spending the $20 to begin with? You're also looking at $20, what about the time and effort(resources) spent towards this troubleshooting process...?

Contact a friend or neighbor and see if they have one, which is why I said borrow, not buy.

You use DDU to remove all GPU drivers(Intel, Nvidia and AMD) from your platform in Safe Mode, then manually reinstall with the latest GPU drivers in an elevated command.

Going to another PC help forum that banned me for not replying within 2 days.
This is odd, what site would have a 2 day ban for you not responding to your own thread?

Fair point. I'm sadly the only PC nerd amongst my friend group (that's local at least). I'll see what I can do.

I'll run DDU and reinstall my drivers.

TLDR: I honestly forget the forum. I was gone for 2 days after I made the post to celebrate the 4th and when I got back I had an email saying I had received 2 replies; one asking for more into (and calling me cheap for buying a B-Tier PSU) and one saying the thread was closed because I didn't reply. When I tried to log into the site it constantly booted me back to the Google home page. I would tell you the site, but I deleted the email because looking at it every time I went into my gmail made me angry.

Ran DDU. It's currently 3 AM so I'm not exactly in the mood to game. I'll update you tomorrow on if there are any more crashes. Thank you.
 
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Just some thoughts here...

You might try to get some readings of actual power usage, as peaks in power draw could possibly be crashing the system (this is commonly known as 'transient surge'). The PSU's rated wattage meets the GPU's requirements, but it may not be delivering what it's supposed to.

You should also probably check the fine print in your motherboard manual to be sure nothing is cutting your x16 slot to x8, or less (some share bandwidth with certain M.2 slots or SATA ports, and cut x16 speed when they are in use). Also, not sure if this necessarily applies to the RX 7800 XT, but from my understanding, some AMD GPUs absolutely HATE PCIe3.0 speeds as well. You may want to check your motherboard BIOS settings. Some allow individual PCIe slot speed to be limited to 3.0 vs 4.0, which might be a factor if set to 3.0.

While I know this is not a Ryzen build, one thing that I've seen to be of particular issue with Ryzen, is that they are VERY fussy about RAM. I found out the hard way (across three builds) that following the board manufacturer's QVL (Qualified Vendor List -- aka memory and SSD compatibility list) is a very good idea with Ryzen if you want guaranteed stability. An Intel build could very well be subject to such restrictions.

That said, the first clue here might be that the QVL for your motherboard does not, in fact, list any 3600 DIMMs as compatible, by any manufacturer. The slowest DIMMs listed as compatible are 4000, the slowest TeamGroup kit listed is 4800. I'd say there's a good chance that your problem lies therein. The DIMMs may simply not be fast enough to be stable on this board, and if that's the case, quite frankly, I'm surprised it runs at all.

To give you an idea, I've had three systems do the following with DIMMs the board did not like (none of which were on the board manufactuer's QVL)... Swapping the DIMMs to manufacturer QVL-approved kits solved these problems on all three and they all run perfectly. None of these kits produced errors in memtest86 or any other testing, either.

BIOS showed them at different speeds.

Shutting down mid-game with the fans wide open, sometimes with RGB, sometimes without.

Refusal to wake from sleep.

No-video POST every 8-10 cold boot cycles (memory training issue).

Constant hour-glass cursor in Windows.

Hope this helps.
A lot of big words I don't understand lol.

Dumb question, would a surge protector prevent transient surge? I have my PC plugged into one, this one to be exact.

You should also probably check the fine print in your motherboard manual to be sure nothing is cutting your x16 slot to x8, or less (some share bandwidth with certain M.2 slots or SATA ports, and cut x16 speed when they are in use). Also, not sure if this necessarily applies to the RX 7800 XT, but from my understanding, some AMD GPUs absolutely HATE PCIe3.0 speeds as well. You may want to check your motherboard BIOS settings. Some allow individual PCIe slot speed to be limited to 3.0 vs 4.0, which might be a factor if set to 3.0.

Lost on this lol. I went through my manual and I don't see anything you're talking about but I could be wrong. I'll check the BIOS again to make sure nothing is up with my PCIE slots. The one I have my GPU plugged into is a 5.0 btw.

My memory is on the supported list, based on the link you added you were looking at the DDR5 version of the motherboard, I have the DDR4. My games SSD was on the supported list, my boot SSD had a greater capacity version on the supported listed, and a misc SSD I have for extra storage was not on the list.

Just a reminder, my PC was running fine for several months, this issue only started occurring in recent weeks (sorry if that came out sounding sassy or anything).

Anything to add with this in mind?
 
A lot of big words I don't understand lol.

Dumb question, would a surge protector prevent transient surge? I have my PC plugged into one, this one to be exact.

You should also probably check the fine print in your motherboard manual to be sure nothing is cutting your x16 slot to x8, or less (some share bandwidth with certain M.2 slots or SATA ports, and cut x16 speed when they are in use). Also, not sure if this necessarily applies to the RX 7800 XT, but from my understanding, some AMD GPUs absolutely HATE PCIe3.0 speeds as well. You may want to check your motherboard BIOS settings. Some allow individual PCIe slot speed to be limited to 3.0 vs 4.0, which might be a factor if set to 3.0.

Lost on this lol. I went through my manual and I don't see anything you're talking about but I could be wrong. I'll check the BIOS again to make sure nothing is up with my PCIE slots. The one I have my GPU plugged into is a 5.0 btw.

My memory is on the supported list, based on the link you added you were looking at the DDR5 version of the motherboard, I have the DDR4. My games SSD was on the supported list, my boot SSD had a greater capacity version on the supported listed, and a misc SSD I have for extra storage was not on the list.

Just a reminder, my PC was running fine for several months, this issue only started occurring in recent weeks (sorry if that came out sounding sassy or anything).

Anything to add with this in mind?

Strangely, mine ran fine for a while before it started acting up too.

Not a dumb question for someone who isn't experienced -- in fact, my old man told me the only dumb question is one you never ask, because you'll never know the answer.

But no, a surge protector strip has nothing to do with consistent power from your PSU to your other components. Transient surges are basically momentary spikes in CPU / GPU power demand, resulting in a PSU overload in some cases, which will cause the PSU to shut down to protect itself, just like tripping a circuit breaker, and will causing the system to crash from power loss.

This can occur even if your PSU meets the required power rating -- basically, if your PSU is 'adequate', it could still overload from transient surges. This is why I chose an 80+ certified 850W for my 5900X / RTX3060ti rig. But even if you exceed the requirements, there's always the possibility that your PSU simply isn't delivering the wattage it is rated for.

Interesting that there are two versions of this board. Is there a link for the one you have?

As for the PCIe slot limitations, in plain English, you should read the manual sections pertaining to the PCIe x16 slot (the longest of them, and if there are multiples of the longest length, the closest to the CPU), the M.2 slots, and the SATA ports.

There will be footnotes indicating if any specific configurations will cut speeds, disable SATA ports, etc., and there is no particular standard to this -- it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and board model to board model. There may well be something choking your PCIex16 from 5.0 to 4.0 or even 3.0, or from x16 to x8 speeds.

As an example, here is such an excerpt from the manual for my Gigabyte B550 Aorus Master.

Hope this helps make more sense of what I'm saying.
 
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Hello. Just checking in here. You happen to have the exact same issue I am having. I was just about to create my own post before I saw yours.

My issue is identical. PC shuts down, fans turn off, but some internal RGB remains on, indicating there is still some power flowing. PC cannot be shut off / restarted except by turning it off at the wall. PC is four years old and only started experiencing these issues this year.

Just to highlight a few things I've tried - I've run memtest multiple times. No issues discovered.
I've attempted to trigger a crash via CPU and GPU load tests. This has never worked.
I have checked the system journal (I primarily run Linux) for any offending errors. Found nothing.
I even brought a cheap graphics card and replaced my existing one temporarily. Crash still occurred.
I've reinstalled drivers in both Windows and Linux (dual boot). Issue still occurs across both OS's, even though both are on entirely separate storage devices.

At this point I've ruled out the graphics card, the RAM, the storage drives, drivers and operating systems as being a potential cause. The fact that CPU load tests never seemed to trigger a crash makes the CPU look innocent (although I can't be 100% certain). The two most suspicious looking suspects remaining are the motherboard and, like you said, the power supply. Both are a few years old, so wear and tear is a factor.

My motherboard is the ASUS TUF Gaming B550M Micro-ATX board.
My PSU is the SilverStone Strider ST65GS.

Do you know what motherboard and PSU you're using? If we have one in common, that might provide a clue as to the culprit.
 
Follow up question,

Is my specific PSU bad? Another "pro" on a separate forum said it was "cheap" and said "B-Tier" was not good. I thought A,B, and even C-tier PSU were fine???

To be honest I have rarely segotep PSUs can be a mix bag there made by several different psu manufacturers segotep is just a brand.

I've personally used seasonic focus line or there core gold line of psu are fine as well.

When looking at reviews I always look at who is making the PSU common ones

Channel well technology
Seasonic
Great wall
Fsp

All make decent PSUs great wall and fsp have made some garbage ones though.

Always stick to single rail psus

Also you didn't sau what type of RGB it was strip or fans as that's important as there are several RGB that use 5v Vs 12v etc plugging it in wrong can cause damage to the board etc
 
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Strangely, mine ran fine for a while before it started acting up too.

Not a dumb question for someone who isn't experienced -- in fact, my old man told me the only dumb question is one you never ask, because you'll never know the answer.

But no, a surge protector strip has nothing to do with consistent power from your PSU to your other components. Transient surges are basically momentary spikes in CPU / GPU power demand, resulting in a PSU overload in some cases, which will cause the PSU to shut down to protect itself, just like tripping a circuit breaker, and will causing the system to crash from power loss.

This can occur even if your PSU meets the required power rating -- basically, if your PSU is 'adequate', it could still overload from transient surges. This is why I chose an 80+ certified 850W for my 5900X / RTX3060ti rig. But even if you exceed the requirements, there's always the possibility that your PSU simply isn't delivering the wattage it is rated for.

Interesting that there are two versions of this board. Is there a link for the one you have?

As for the PCIe slot limitations, in plain English, you should read the manual sections pertaining to the PCIe x16 slot (the longest of them, and if there are multiples of the longest length, the closest to the CPU), the M.2 slots, and the SATA ports.

There will be footnotes indicating if any specific configurations will cut speeds, disable SATA ports, etc., and there is no particular standard to this -- it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and board model to board model. There may well be something choking your PCIex16 from 5.0 to 4.0 or even 3.0, or from x16 to x8 speeds.

As an example, here is such an excerpt from the manual for my Gigabyte B550 Aorus Master.

Hope this helps make more sense of what I'm saying.


Curious... mines 850W 80 Plus Gold and still might be acting up.

Here's a link to my board. Mines specifically rev 1.3

I checked the manual like you said and see nothing that suggests any bandwidth sharing.

That does help, thank you!!!

I finished playing about an hour of Overwatch 2 following Lutfij's suggestion of using DDU to reinstalling my drivers and so far so good. Then again I was running stock without overclocking. I'll do some more testing now...
 
To be honest I have rarely segotep PSUs can be a mix bag there made by several different psu manufacturers segotep is just a brand.

I've personally used seasonic focus line or there core gold line of psu are fine as well.

When looking at reviews I always look at who is making the PSU common ones

Channel well technology
Seasonic
Great wall
Fsp

All make decent PSUs great wall and fsp have made some garbage ones though.

Always stick to single rail psus

Also you didn't sau what type of RGB it was strip or fans as that's important as there are several RGB that use 5v Vs 12v etc plugging it in wrong can cause damage to the board etc

Apologies. It's ARGB in the fans, RAM, mobo, CPU cooler, and GPU.

Like I said in the reply above so far so good but I need to do some more testing, especially with overclocking. I paid for the whole GPU and PSU, I wanna use the whole GPU and PSU dammit!
 
Hello. Just checking in here. You happen to have the exact same issue I am having. I was just about to create my own post before I saw yours.

My issue is identical. PC shuts down, fans turn off, but some internal RGB remains on, indicating there is still some power flowing. PC cannot be shut off / restarted except by turning it off at the wall. PC is four years old and only started experiencing these issues this year.

Just to highlight a few things I've tried - I've run memtest multiple times. No issues discovered.
I've attempted to trigger a crash via CPU and GPU load tests. This has never worked.
I have checked the system journal (I primarily run Linux) for any offending errors. Found nothing.
I even brought a cheap graphics card and replaced my existing one temporarily. Crash still occurred.
I've reinstalled drivers in both Windows and Linux (dual boot). Issue still occurs across both OS's, even though both are on entirely separate storage devices.

At this point I've ruled out the graphics card, the RAM, the storage drives, drivers and operating systems as being a potential cause. The fact that CPU load tests never seemed to trigger a crash makes the CPU look innocent (although I can't be 100% certain). The two most suspicious looking suspects remaining are the motherboard and, like you said, the power supply. Both are a few years old, so wear and tear is a factor.

My motherboard is the ASUS TUF Gaming B550M Micro-ATX board.
My PSU is the SilverStone Strider ST65GS.

Do you know what motherboard and PSU you're using? If we have one in common, that might provide a clue as to the culprit.

I do. Here's a parts list.

Motherboard is a Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite AX DDR4 Rev 1.3 (ATX)
PSU is a Segotep GM850
 
Curious... mines 850W 80 Plus Gold and still might be acting up.

Here's a link to my board. Mines specifically rev 1.3

I checked the manual like you said and see nothing that suggests any bandwidth sharing.

That does help, thank you!!!

I finished playing about an hour of Overwatch 2 following Lutfij's suggestion of using DDU to reinstalling my drivers and so far so good. Then again I was running stock without overclocking. I'll do some more testing now...
Overclocking generally increases power draw, so if both the GPU and CPU are overclocked, this could be getting into transient surge territory if the demand and supply are close enough. For example, my system draws 175W idling. In high gaming loads, it can draw as much as 280W.

Wow. They didn't really tell you much in that so-called 'manual', did they? Just throw it together and go into BIOS setup... Kinda reminds me of Pee-Wee Herman yelling, "LA-LA-LA! Connect the dots!"

I would see if you can get your hands on a power supply tester.

Alternately, if you happen to live near the Orlando, FL area, check out Greg Salazar, he does this thing on YT called 'Fix or Flop', and he has the necessary tools to figure out these things if your issue persists.
 
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Overclocking generally increases power draw, so if both the GPU and CPU are overclocked, this could be getting into transient surge territory if the demand and supply are close enough. For example, my system draws 175W idling. In high gaming loads, it can draw as much as 280W.

Wow. They didn't really tell you much in that so-called 'manual', did they? Just throw it together and go into BIOS setup... Kinda reminds me of Pee-Wee Herman yelling, "LA-LA-LA! Connect the dots!"

I would see if you can get your hands on a power supply tester.

Alternately, if you happen to live near the Orlando, FL area, check out Greg Salazar, he does this thing on YT called 'Fix or Flop', and he has the necessary tools to figure out these things if your issue persists.

Maybe... still weird that this is only occurring now since I've been overclocking my GPU since I got it. I don't touch my CPU since I'm never CPU throttled.

I'll see if I can get a PSU tester.

I'm in New England so visiting Salazar is a no go.

I did some more gaming without overclocking and no crash yet. Gonna overclock again and see what happens. If I'm fine after a couple days then i'll say problem solved.
 
Been gaming for a bit now and there hasn't been a crash. I think a hard wipe and reinstall of my GPU drivers fixed the issue! THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!!!

That does seem to be a common fix, but don't rule out the other suggestions if you have any further issues. Glad your issue seems to be resolved though. I know how frustrating it is.

It may be good enough, but it could still be defective and the only way to eliminate it is to try a known good one.
Or get a known good tester to see the actual output.