Question Power supply upgrade Alienware Aurora R4

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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I brought an Evga Geforce Rtx 3050 (8 pin power cord) card as an upgrade since it was not overpriced recently. The issue I have is what power supply, (preferably Evga, but I will take any high wattage, reliable psu that will last for years), I need to buy to upgrade/replace the OEM PSU. The motherboard is a
07JNH0 A02
The power supply from the sticker says
CN-0V9J6H -47985
2AB-1039-A02
DP/N -0V9J6H
The current gpu I am replacing is a Zotac 660 (2 6-pin power cords), and while I have seen 6 pin to 8 pin adaptors, I waited months on a waiting list and do not desire to fry my new GPU.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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1,510
In the initial post I meant to say 6-pin and 8-pin power connectors, those little cables inside the computer case that supply power to graphic cards that require extra power to function.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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I got a picture of the power connections on the Zotac 660 that has an odd look to one of the connections.
Gpu power cable
The one on the left has a two pin cable on (left of the one cable called P14). Is that power cable a 6+2 pin connector cable? If so I would be able to power the RTX 3050 with it with no issues? Or should I still upgrade the power supply unit? I am trying to be comprehensive in finding out what to do from experienced people before proceeding.
Here is a link to the pictures I took of the motherboard sticker and psu
psu, mb picture
I apologize for taking more time on this, but information is important to save time overall.
 
Yes, any modern aftermarket power supply of reasonably decent quality that is 550w or higher is going to have the required connectors. Modern supplies generally come with 6+2 pins, not strictly "6" or "8" pin PCIe/PEG connectors. But you absolutely don't need a 750w power supply if you buy a good model like the RMx series from Corsair. 550w is more than plenty for your configuration so unless you're planning to upgrade soon to a much higher end graphics card, I wouldn't recommend spending the extra money. Just get the 550w and keep the rest of the money in your pocket unless you plan to upgrade sooner than later.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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So, the 550 or 750, whatever I decide to buy, will also have the required pin motherboard cpu, power, whatever connections/cables that the 07JNH0 board requires?
I looked at various power supplies before asking here and seen ATX and EPS cables from 300 to 600 mm.
Am I just seeing varying lengths of the cables being stated, for example the Evga 750 N1 having ATX at 550mm and EPS at 600mm; with for comparsion the Evga SuperNova 750 GM having ATX at 300mm and EPS at 400mm? The above two mentioned are examples of differences I seen, and are part of the reason I am here.
 

Vic 40

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for example the Evga 750 N1 having ATX at 550mm and EPS at 600mm; with for comparsion the Evga SuperNova 750 GM having ATX at 300mm and EPS at 400mm? The above two mentioned are examples of differences I seen, and are part of the reason I am here.
Those two are different form factors, The N1 is a standard ATX form factor, the GM is an SFX power supply which are for small cases that support this form factor and why the cables can be and are shorter.
Some SFX power supplies do come with an ATX bracket so that they would fit into an ATX case, but would just go for a standard ATX power supply in your case.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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Alright, I think enough has been done to close this and proceed with what you have posted in response to my questions. Time to find out if everything will work out.
Thank you for taking time to answer.
 
I would ABSOLUTELY NOT recommend almost anything being currently sold be EVGA except the G2, G3, P2, T2 and in a pinch, the GQ. Everything else is much lower quality platforms than what we have gotten used to seeing from EVGA and they are definitely not even in the same realm when it comes to quality as the RMx I recommended. Probably not even the same realm as any of the Seasonic Focus Plus Gold platform unit out there either, like the Seasonic Focus Plus or Antec High Current Gamer Gold. The N1 and W1 units are especially poor quality and we know this from seeing it over and over again, and so far as I know the GM units are "ok", using Japanese caps, but of course as mentioned aren't the right form factor for your system.

Use the two following links to help you pick out a quality unit, but I'm telling you up front the unit I recommended is the best low cost option available in the US market right now without dropping down to something much lower in quality.


 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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Ok to be clear, I will take your recommendation on power supplys and buy what was said to be a good buy as a replacement.
I had merely mentioned the evga psu models to get clarification on the ATX and EPS parts. You have spent time helping me, disregarding your help would be quite disrespectful and insulting.
I have no intention to toss money away by getting an inferior power supply to power my computer.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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Just a quick followup the Corsair RMx 550 or 750 would also supply power to both the rtx 3050 and an Intel Core i7 3820 cpu without issues, correct? I rather have extra wasted wattage than not enough which is why the 750 model is mentioned and room to potentially upgrade later safely.
 
Yes, without any doubt. Both models. If you plan to do any serious overclocking or get a higher end graphics card within the next five years, get the 750w. Otherwise, the 550w is plenty. Or even feel free to split the difference as there is a 650w model as well. Any of them will be fine.

In fact, pretty much anything listed here would work 100% fine with your system. As a matter of fact, prices have changed, and now the 650w seems to be less expensive than the 550w, but still more expensive than the 550w was when I first posted that link. Prices change rapidly these days.

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/p...0000000,850000000000&sort=price&X=9000,119900
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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Thank you. This has been an educational experience in pc part picking. This will be useful in the future when I build a pc myself from scratch to avoid manufacturer markup.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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What was the wattage on the 0V9J6H power supply if you know what it is? Actually all of the information on that model would be useful as a reference point ( cable connections and types, physical dimensions, and wattage). Asking before this thread can be closed.
 
Last edited:

GoboII

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What was the wattage on the 0V9J6H power supply if you know what it is?
I was not able to find your unit specifically, but this unit is one that is also used in the R4 ALX desktop. If the numbers match yours, though, then this applies to you as well.
There should be a section on the side of the power supply that shows the DC output; where it has +12V followed by a line and a number and A, kind of like this:
unknown.png

The reason I'm focusing on 12V is that it is what both your CPU and GPU draw from, so a PSU's capacity is based on what it can output at 12V. The number with the "A" afterwards is the current; you can multiply the current times the voltage to get how much power that rail can output. So for 12VA (the third line from the top,) it is rated for 18 amps times 12 volts = 216 watts. It has five such rails, each of which are rated for 18 amps, but it also says that the maximum power on 12V is 825 watts. This means that, under a best-case-scenario, the unit is rated for 825 watts. The reason I say best-case scenario is that this would require you to be drawing on all of the 12V rails more or less evenly, which isn't realistic.

I should also point out that there is a lot more to a power supply than just its rated capacity. Electrical characteristics such as ripple suppression, load regulation, and transient response are all important factors as well. This isn't to say that the power supply in your machine is a terrible one, just that power supply design has come a long way in the last ten years, so for a modern card you should get a modern power supply if possible.

Oh, and finally, please, do not buy the EVGA N1.
 
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What was the wattage on the 0V9J6H power supply if you know what it is? Actually all of the information on that model would be useful as a reference point ( cable connections and types, physical dimensions, and wattage). Asking before this thread can be closed.
Actually, it wouldn't. It is in fact basically irrelevant. All that matters, ever, is what the requirements of the system are, AS IT IS CURRENTLY CONFIGURED, and nothing else. The only exception to that is when you are planning to do a significant upgrade to something in the near future in which case you want to plan your PSU purchase to include whatever is going to be needed for that configuration, even if it won't be immediately, it makes sense so that if you do it in a year or two you don't have to buy an entirely different unit.

This is the about the best, most relevant "GPU and system" recommendation you're going to find. And you'll see based on that, even if you had something all the way up to a 3070 ti with a single 8 pin, a 650w unit would be more than sufficient. For a 3050, specific connectors aside, you could get away with a GOOD 450w power supply so long as it was a model with an 8 pin PEG connector.

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm

Any of those 550w to 750w units is fine. MORE than fine. They greatly exceed what is necessary.
 
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KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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I took out the psu and took a picture of the power info sticker, here is the link via Imgur:
Psu sticker info
It is a lot of text so the image is the best way to check it out, and hopefully you can recommend a new power supply that matches the information on the sticker.
I had to take a break during this due to fatigue and just now feel like finishing this off. Also since there is little information on OEM power supply units having the specifications direct from the sticker would be useful to anyone else if they are in the same situation.
 
Any of the power supplies on the list I linked to earlier will almost certainly grossly exceed the quality of that power supply, and will certainly be more likely to ACTUALLY be capable of supplying it's maximum rated capacity than that one could even when it was new, which it hasn't been, for a great many years now. I'm not really sure what else you think is missing in the information you've been given but I'd recommend that you either make a purchase based on the information that has already been offered here, or disregard it entirely and just go buy another exactly like the one you have now, which probably won't be any better than the one you have now, and certainly won't have the connector you need.

An RTX 3050 is a very LOW powered graphics card. You don't need ANYTHING like 850w watts. You don't even NEED 550w to be completely honest. Your system probably pulls something like 400-500w, TOTAL, MAXIMIMUM, under a full CPU and GPU load, with 100% steady state load applied. That is something under normal usage you are never even going to approach, so you are overly concerned about something that for this system, isn't even relevant.

Get a good quality 550w-750w ATX power supply in one of the models that has been recommended here and there is no further discussion needed. It's very simply a non-issue.
 

KeeptheB3st

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Dec 16, 2019
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Alright. I posted the link to the psu infomation sticker as final clarification, since is is an old model, prior to looking at what I will buy to replace it with. This is clarification for my OCD to no longer bother me. I am aware that it is irritating, not just for you but for me, as well.
All angles have been looked at so I proceed now.