Question on Arctic Clean

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ixeT

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Apr 9, 2007
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Recently I removed the stock heat spreader on my RAM and now I'm wondering if its alright to use the Arctic Clean 1 and 2 to clean of the old thermal pad residue? Is it safe to drop a few drops of the cleaner on the RAM chips and the PCB? Thanks.
 
thanks for the info. Do I need to use a damp towel or a dry one? Will wiping too much cause a static build up? :?
 
I removed the stock heat spreader because I want to put the thermalright HR-07 thermal adhesive on it. I'm not sure if the stock heat spreader would've left some residue that needs to be properly cleaned :?
 
It's some good stuff and I used it myself. It's not going to harm when used on ram chips, cpus, gpus and bridge chips, but try not to spill it to the pcb. You can soak the adhesive just enough and let it set for a minute and that should soften the dried thermal compounds to be wipe clean. Repeat if necessary.
 
Either Arctic Clean or some high purity (90%+) rubbing alcohol work good. AC works a little better. IF you are replacing the TIM with something else, you should always use some sort of solvent.

DON'T use water, and don't use kleenex or anything else that leaves lint.
 
ok. thanks for all the replies :lol: by the way, how come its not advised to drop a few drops of arctic clean on the PCB?
 
I always use Acetone first and then 100% Tech Grade Alcohol...1 qt of each comes to about $11 total.

Why buy the same thing in a small amount for so much per oz?

Use coffee filters for lint free wipes (500 for $1 on sale).

I always clean even NEW heatsinks and CPU's with these products befor a install and use a plastic sandwich bag on my finger to use 1/4 of the rice grain sized amount of TIM on the CPU to rub the heatsink.
Even cheap TIM will give you very low temps following this method...high priced TIM is a waste of money I have found as my builds seem to get the same...or more often lower...temp readings vrs following the normal application methods.
 
They aren't exactly the same, as Arctic clean is citrus based. Personally, I would recommend against using acetone, as it is a little bit more powerful of a solvent than just alcohol, and the fumes can be pretty dangerous.
 
I would recommend against using acetone, as it is a little bit more powerful of a solvent than just alcohol
Click to expand...

Yes...thats why I use it.
The Acetone IS the solvent that removes everything and the Tech Grade Alcohol is what removes the Acetone residue.

As for fumes....you always work with proper ventilation when useing chemicals.
 
I've had pretty good luck using just alcohol in most situations. I am sure Acetone works well also, I personally would be leery about it being too strong a solvent though.

As for Arctic Clean being citrus based, thats why there is a stage two that is alcohol based to wipe away the oils. Plus, I think its mostly distilled citric acid with a low amount of oil.
 
It is made with Orange and/or Lemon oil left over from fruit peels durring mass produced juice (fresh/frozen) production.

It is the oil that makes the old TIM no longer able to "stick" to a surface.

Acetone is a SOLVENT that was made to do the same things and it also removes OILS...and is why it is use as a parts cleaner.

Using Acetone to clean BRAND NEW heatsinks and CPU's removes the slight amount of "sticky stuff" that is used to keep the plastic film placed on them to protect them.

If you're afraid to use the stuff then don't.

I have been working on 2-way radios and computers off and on for over 30 years and I know that for heat to transfer the best it can that the parts have to be 100% clean befor you apply any type of TIM....and the TIM needs to be as little as you can apply.

A small package of AS or even "cheep goop" lasts me about 100 builds.
The old style 99 cent packs are good for about 20 builds.

Proper parts cleaning and TIM application give far higher results than just swaping brands of TIM can.

My air cooled Optron builds (950Mhz OC's) run only 2C over room temps on air with only two case fans (proper case airflow and HS).
 
I know all that already, but thanks for the info.

The oil is irrelevant, because there is a second step to remove the oil residue which leaves the surfaces clean.

I merely stated that I prefer using arctic clean or high purity isopropyl alcohol over a stronger SOLVENT like acetone.
 
First off I think you were referring to citric acid. That is a weak acid you can buy at every grocery store. 2ND! as the name states it is a weak acid that has very little in common with an oil. Thank you ZOldDude for making that point very clear. 3RD: just you never EVAR use water, as mr. hergieburbur states; it'll eat up your PCB for sure. Allthemore in addition with soap. Thanks herbie for the input. My next point: use acetone wherevar you can. it'll dissolve not only your arctic silver and burst into flames, NO! It'll also dissolve all your plastic parts.

Scheesch peeps; use some frigging common sense, get a towel, soak it with your finest brandy and then wipe the precious silver off that thingy. Is that so hard to understand?
 
I know all that already, but thanks for the info.

The oil is irrelevant, because there is a second step to remove the oil residue which leaves the surfaces clean.

I merely stated that I prefer using arctic clean or high purity isopropyl alcohol over a stronger SOLVENT like acetone.
Click to expand...

Don't bother arguing with ZOldfart. He will never admit that he's wrong and just ignores anything you say.
 
Hahaha...some of you guys' comments.

First off whatever you use to clean the HS or CPU (or other parts) with...you only apply it to your "lint free applicator".

It is just a drop or two...your not DUNKING the parts into it for love of God and ANY of the products or chemicals listed in this thread are all used in that same mannor.

Whatever you use just use Tech Grade Alcohol as the last step (many times) to remove any residue.

Myself I have used the Acetone/Alcohol method in cleaning electronic parts for near 40 years now without any problems and have built some of the finest custom 2-way radio amps and computer systems for people possible durring that time span.

The care you take in prep given the exact same parts as others does make a differance even if slight.


@ 306maxi...
You must know me as one of the admin on "that" game cheat programmers site eh?
 
We could argue all week about the proper procedures and techniques for cleaning off a chip before applying TIM, and further about the proper application of TIM.

I do wonder what you consider to be tech grade alcohol? There are a lot of different alcohols that are safe to use.
 
I merely stated that I prefer using arctic clean or high purity isopropyl alcohol over a stronger SOLVENT like acetone.
Click to expand...

I can understand your view point however although Acetone is a better remover of TIM than an oil it is not like ACID and will do no harm to the parts even if the MB is cleaned with it in a bath befor parts are populated and it removes OIL(s) which is what Artic Cleaner is based on.

The only reason I use Tech Grade Alcohol is to remove any residue of the Acetone.

Next time you feel a need to remove and reseat your currant CPU HS try my method along with the plastic baggy TIM "film" application and note the drop in temps....even if it is only 2C. lower than your currant methods.

After proper cleaning all the TIM needed is the amount to fill micro fissures not a really so much as a "seen" film after application and as such a 3.5 gram package of AS-5 or simular amount of "goop" is good for up to 100 applications.

For us hardware heads it all adds up.
 
I understand your point of view, and have worked with many people with similar thoughts. I personally never got into the plastic back method of application, instead just using a "rice grain" sized amount. If I was still building PCs for my job, I would probably be more concerned with conserving TIM, but I rarely enough remove my CPU anymore. At least now that I got a great (scythe ninja) HSF.
 
bumping an old thread, is it alright to use Pharmacy grade alcholol (95%) to clean the RAM? not just the chips but also the PCB.

@ZoldDude
I used your method of applying TIM, and glad to say that my P4 idled at 3c lower :lol:
 
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