[SOLVED] Ryzen 5 5600X running way too hot with Fractal Design Lumen S36 RGB

TheGhostik

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Dec 31, 2016
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Hello,

I recently started to notice that my PC was way louder after boot, I checked the temps and they were around 60°C , I used to have around 26-30°C when I installed the AIO (9 months ago in winter).

So I bought Thermal Grizzly kryonaut and some compressed air, applied new thermal paste instead of the stock pre-applied one and cleaned the whole PC , temps went to 40°C on idle and between 70-80°C in gaming which was fine.

4 days later, I am having the same issue, I reached 95°C ingame while it reported only 30% CPU usage, and back at 60°C + on desktop
7cgfJ84.png

For the record, it is around 5-6°C more in my room today. But it's still way too high, currently hitting around 70°C while writing this and doing nothing else.
Nj1HcvM.png




Did the AIO pump die again? I mean I had MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R which died after 6 months, so I bought something from a more reputable brand or so I thought...

Honestly, if that's the case, I will just buy Noctua NH-D15 and give up on this AIO nonsense.

As for GPU, it rarely goes over 70°C, most of the time runs fanless.

For the Fan setup I have 3 stock case fans in the front(intake), one Noctua NOCTUA NF-F12 PWM in the back(exhaust) and then mounted the radiator with 3 fans on top as an exhaust.


PC specs:
Graphics card:
EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 FTW3 ULTRA
Processor:
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
RAM:
HyperX Fury RGB 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3600 CL17
Motherboard:
GIGABYTE X570 AORUS ELITE
Power supply:
Fractal Design Ion+ 860W Platinum
Case:
Phanteks Eclipse P500A Tempered Glass - D-RGB Black
CPU Cooler:
Fractal Design Lumen S36 RGB

After 10 minutes in CS:GO
vu3BoUB.png

SHE9WvH.png


Any help would be much appreciated!
 
Solution
Did the AIO pump die again? I mean I had MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R which died after 6 months, so I bought something from a more reputable brand or so I thought...
When it comes to AIO/CLCs, a good chunk of brands do not make their own; another company makes them, or the brand designs them and another company makes them.
Corsair's was using Asetek, but they later switched over to Cool It.
Arctic's are an in-house design - so are Cooler Master's.
Msi's MAG & MPG are made by Apaltek(Apalcool). Their MEGs are Asetek though.

Fractal Design's Lumen series is done by Apaltek as well. Their older Celsius and Celsius+ are Asetek.


Remove the radiator from the roof and try manually holding it - maybe have someone else help you with...

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
have you ever tried mounting AIO on front and having the 3 fans as exhaust in roof?
might reduce temps if CPU is getting fresh air.

I don't know if it help now, depends on if AIO is okay or not.

having AIO above the 3070 in games means it sucks all the heat from GPU into AIO and that is main source of your heat in games... not so much at boot though.

While radiators are slow to heat up, they also keep the heat longer afterwards
 

TheGhostik

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Dec 31, 2016
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have you ever tried mounting AIO on front and having the 3 fans as exhaust in roof?
might reduce temps if CPU is getting fresh air.

I don't know if it help now, depends on if AIO is okay or not.

having AIO above the 3070 in games means it sucks all the heat from GPU into AIO and that is main source of your heat in games... not so much at boot though.

While radiators are slow to heat up, they also keep the heat longer afterwards

I might give it a try, but it will take a lot of effort and time to make it work... since the front fans are 3x140mm and AIO is 3x120mm and I am using the drive bay for HDDs under it. So there would be a lot of clearance issues, I would have to mod it so that the 3x140mm fans fit in the front right behind the mesh panel and mount the radiator behind it, I have seen someone do that, pretty sad that it does not come like that from the factory.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
I would have to mod it so that the 3x140mm fans fit in the front right behind the mesh panel and mount the radiator behind it,
im confused. The AIO fans are 120,mm, why are you talking about the 3 x 140mm?

looking at case, you can put 3 x 120mm in front with support for a 360mm radiator, and 2 x 140mm in roof, and 1x 140mm in rear. You could use the 120mm noctua where it is instead, you have enough airflow.

https://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P500A-DRGB.html
 

TheGhostik

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Dec 31, 2016
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im confused. The AIO fans are 120,mm, why are you talking about the 3 x 140mm?

looking at case, you can put 3 x 120mm in front with support for a 360mm radiator, and 2 x 140mm in roof, and 1x 140mm in rear. You could use the 120mm noctua where it is instead, you have enough airflow.

https://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P500A-DRGB.html

Yeah, that was an option too. Thanks for the tip, but I still feel like the temps should not be 30°C over ambient when idle.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
No, it shouldn't that high if you haven't played any games today for instance. if thats just idle.

it can't be cooler than ambient, it should be a little warmer as it has no way to make it colder than the air that blows through it.

It could just be the AIO. How do you control fan speed? I don't see any software for it? must be controlled by bios - Might be you need to adjust fan settings in bios.

I can't tell if pump sounds wrong as I can't hear mine at all over exhaust fans.

I might see if others have any ideas.
 

Phaaze88

Titan
Ambassador
Did the AIO pump die again? I mean I had MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R which died after 6 months, so I bought something from a more reputable brand or so I thought...
When it comes to AIO/CLCs, a good chunk of brands do not make their own; another company makes them, or the brand designs them and another company makes them.
Corsair's was using Asetek, but they later switched over to Cool It.
Arctic's are an in-house design - so are Cooler Master's.
Msi's MAG & MPG are made by Apaltek(Apalcool). Their MEGs are Asetek though.

Fractal Design's Lumen series is done by Apaltek as well. Their older Celsius and Celsius+ are Asetek.


Remove the radiator from the roof and try manually holding it - maybe have someone else help you with this - upright while you run the cpu through a benchmark.
Because of the different locations of pumps, there are ideal and less ideal ways to install each:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeGRvpSfwrg&list=WL&index=13


IF high core temperatures are still observed while the radiator is held upright, then the Lumen has likely fallen victim to Apaltek's track record of dirty coolant.
At that point, you'd be best off replacing it with a different cooler instead of having it replaced for another Lumen through warranty.
 
Solution

TheGhostik

Honorable
Dec 31, 2016
27
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10,530
When it comes to AIO/CLCs, a good chunk of brands do not make their own; another company makes them, or the brand designs them and another company makes them.
Corsair's was using Asetek, but they later switched over to Cool It.
Arctic's are an in-house design - so are Cooler Master's.
Msi's MAG & MPG are made by Apaltek(Apalcool). Their MEGs are Asetek though.

Fractal Design's Lumen series is done by Apaltek as well. Their older Celsius and Celsius+ are Asetek.


Remove the radiator from the roof and try manually holding it - maybe have someone else help you with this - upright while you run the cpu through a benchmark.
Because of the different locations of pumps, there are ideal and less ideal ways to install each:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeGRvpSfwrg&list=WL&index=13


IF high core temperatures are still observed while the radiator is held upright, then the Lumen has likely fallen victim to Apaltek's track record of dirty coolant.
At that point, you'd be best off replacing it with a different cooler instead of having it replaced for another Lumen through warranty.

Interesting, I will definitely try that, after watching the video it sounds like I killed my second AIO pump just by mounting it on top since they both had the pump inside rad. What's funny is that the official manual for both of the products recommends that position, that's why I thought it would not be an issue.
fYq3H86.png
Dh0FyWD.png
 

Phaaze88

Titan
Ambassador
Interesting, I will definitely try that, after watching the video it sounds like I killed my second AIO pump just by mounting it on top since they both had the pump inside rad. What's funny is that the official manual for both of the products recommends that position, that's why I thought it would not be an issue.
/images
Wow. It's like they copy-pasted it from older manuals... because, minus the offset pump in the picture, the manuals for Celsius S36 and Celsius+ S28 that I have display the same pictures.
 

TheGhostik

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Wow. It's like they copy-pasted it from older manuals... because, minus the offset pump in the picture, the manuals for Celsius S36 and Celsius+ S28 that I have display the same pictures.
So I did try moving the rad upright with the pump being on the bottom so that I don't have to unplug everything, (just did the cable management for the RGB/FAN nightmare 5 days ago so I had to remove all that...) surprisingly the pump noise went away, no more rattling noise or whatever that was. On the other hand, the temps went up like crazy, in BIOS it stayed pretty much the same, on startup, they spiked to 96°C and then cooled down to 80°C and stayed there on idle - 0-5% CPU usage, now with the pump back at the top I am having 55-60°C with a browser open
 

Phaaze88

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Ambassador
So I did try moving the rad upright with the pump being on the bottom so that I don't have to unplug everything, (just did the cable management for the RGB/FAN nightmare 5 days ago so I had to remove all that...) surprisingly the pump noise went away, no more rattling noise or whatever that was. On the other hand, the temps went up like crazy, in BIOS it stayed pretty much the same, on startup, they spiked to 96°C and then cooled down to 80°C and stayed there on idle - 0-5% CPU usage, now with the pump back at the top I am having 55-60°C with a browser open
Air moved and got stuck in the cpu head while you did that. Elevate the radiator higher than the cpu head, and you should be able to bleed the air out of the cpu head; air rises to the highest point of the loop, but sometimes it does need help.
 

TheGhostik

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Sounds like a problem with the AIO to me, 95C is way too hot for a 5600X and a 360mm AIO. Mounting an AIO in the roof is perfectly acceptable from a thermal perspective. If you've only just got the AIO I would return it and get a Corsair instead.

I have it for 9 months, I might get lucky and get my money back if I go for RMA since they do not have it in stock on the site where I bought it.
 

JeffreyP55

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Mar 3, 2015
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Interesting, I will definitely try that, after watching the video it sounds like I killed my second AIO pump just by mounting it on top since they both had the pump inside rad. What's funny is that the official manual for both of the products recommends that position, that's why I thought it would not be an issue. I am also a firm believer of a full towers. Your millage may very.
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Not the pump. It is the radiator and should not effect the AIO function. I mount my 360 on top with never an issue. I believe mounting it this way improves air management. I have no data to prove if this is true. I am also a firm believer in full tower cases. Your millage may vary.
 
Last edited:

Phaaze88

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Ambassador
Not the pump.
Thanks(?) in part to Asetek's nonsense, other companies have, and are pursuing alternate pump designs. We don't have cpu pump head only options anymore - there's pump in radiator and in-line pumps(check be quiet's Pure Loop) now.
Fractal's Lumen has its pump in the radiator(that little black cube).
Over time, the air volume increases, so a top mounted pump in rad unit will get exposed to more air and possibly run dry. Top mount is therefore less ideal for these if one wants it to last.
 
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TheGhostik

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Well, no change the temps seem to be the same no matter what orientation I put the AIO in, I will most likely send it to RMA once I find the stock cooler that I hopefully still have somewhere. I better make sure to not send out the mounting kit for the AM4 that comes with the motherboard like last time :D

Not sure if I will go for a new AIO or go back to a reliable air cooler, but I will most definitely not buy another pump in radiator combo AIO I am pretty much done with those after 2 of them failed so quickly and I don't feel like it is a user error if they put the orientation in their own manual and even present the AIO mounted like that in all pictures.
 

TheGhostik

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Update:

The pump most likely completely died, I tried to change the position and at one point the pump stopped making noise and the rad was cold but the CPU was around 80+ C in BIOS, so yeah I packed it up, contacted support and swapped it for stock cooler, immediately better temps and noise levels. What an irony.

It amazes me every time that the tiny stock cooler manages to do so well, prime95 for 15 minutes max temp 83C, in games it was more like 70-72 in the short test I did, the only downside is that my case is a lot darker without all the RGB fans on top :D

Thank you all for the suggestions!