Thermaltake Crome Orb

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
Zenthar

Zenthar

Distinguished
Dec 31, 2007
3,249
0
21,010
I am running a Tbird 1Ghz and I was a bit concerned about the heat issue of the processor (it would easely reach a temperature of 59C when stressed). To resolve my problem, I bought a Thermaltake Chrome Orb ... but now the temperature climax at 62C!!! I would like to know if its because I didn't installed it properly, or simply because the colling device that came with my system was already damn good (it seems it is a generic device ...). I still wonder how Tom's benchmarks were able to get a 43C temperature. Please help me even if it is to tell me that it is "normal" so I can try to re-sell that thing.

Thanks
 
Yes it is normal, yes sell the extra bits

all temperature (CPU/mobo) depends on ambient (room) temperature.

My Duron 650 o/c900 1.85V varies betwee 36c to 67c depending where I take it to, ie in Malaysia 33C ambient or UK placing case on the window opened 16C

did you remove a plastic on thermal compound the HSF before installing it?

Best regards
cx5
 
So the chrome orb simply sucks? I did remove the plasic (there was none 🙁 ). My room temperature is probably closer to 15C than to 20C ... My real concern is that in the SAME conditions, the Thermaltake cooler reaches higher temperature 🙁 And still ... to be able to reach the 43C of temperature how did he do that, case opened with big external fan?

Thanks for answring me.
 
According to Tom the orbs do suck. I kind of figured as much, I am a designer. The ones I've seen 1.)had too much space between the fan blades and the cooling fins, and 2.) have no shroud to separate the bottom of the fan (outlet) from the top of the fan (inlet), therefore recirculating hot air without drawing cooler air from any area away from the heat sink. The tradintional fan designs are far better. Any large traditional heatsink with lots of fins and a big fan should be superior to any orb, because they draw cooler air from an area away from the heatsink, and the frame directs air from the cooler region to the warmer region without recirculating it from the back of the fan to the front. (Same reason that car companies use fan shrouds instead of fan guards, also, the closer the shroud to the blade, the better the fan works by preventing reversion at the edges of the blades). Orb sells people "eye candy", and has no scientific backing behind their design. It just "looks" like it works better. Other people I'm sure will argue eith me on this, claiming they dropped their temps with one, usually after removing the pink stuff and adding Artic Silver or some other superior conductant. But, had they tried using Artic Silver on any other high performance heatsink, I think they would have been suprised to find that other, ugglier designs do work better under the same conditions.
 
I had a chrome orb on a TBird-900 that would run at about 51C with a 100% cpu load and a m/b temperature of 22C-24C.

I now have a CoolerMaster DP5-6H11 and it runs at about 42C (100% load), and is also super quiet.

(Case closed, one 80mm exhaust case fan in the back, both using the thermal stuff that comes on the heatsink)

-JW
 
I was sceptical too, but seeing many sites review of it, it seemed a not so bad compromise between noise and colling effect. If I had seen at least a slight improvement I would have been happy, but the temp. raised about 3C... Anyway, at least I can do a cool paperweight out of it hahaha!
 
You might laugh at me, but I looked at the CoolerMaster DP5-6H11 on their web site and it seems to be EXACTLY what I have on my PC. It might only look like it, mine had an AMD sticker on the fan, not a collermaster one. I added a 3" fan to get cool air in (is it better to get an exhaust fan or one that gets air in?) and I now have a 55C peak temperature instead of 60C. I will soon try to add some silver thermal paste on my CPU to see how it works. Even thow some "exeperiments" turned out to be disapointing, getting this CPU coller in an interesting challenge. Anyone experienced a copper heat-sink and tell me how it worked?
 
They do work better than some cheap coolers because some cheap ones work so poorly, and they have a lot of surface area on the cooling fins. My guess would be that the reason that some people have good luck with them is that some people have an exhaust fan on their power supplies in close proximity above them.
 
It's better to pull the hot air off. When you blow cool in in, it tends to make little air pockets, where the air is trapped by the air pressure of air moving in, and that air just get's hot, and never circulated. By pulling air off the heatsink, you are ensuring that these pockets don't form, and the cool air gets pulled onto the heatsink through it's sides to circulate around it before being hauled off by the fan.
 
I disagree. Fans tend to draw air from the sides and blow air forward. Therefore, unless the shroud forced air to be drawn from the bottom of the heatsink, I think a blowing fan would immerse a larger portion of the heatsink in cooler air.
 
Well, yes.. And I assume there are fans out there without shrouds? I have never seen one. It is however, a fact that pulling air off of the processor will do a better job of cooling it. Disagree with that and you disagree with the laws of physics. So to answer Zenthars question, pulling air off the processor is preferable to blowing onto it. Of course, if your fan doesn't do an effective job of drawing the air off the heatsink, you would flip it around, or get yourself a fan that works.<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by Bandit on 12/25/00 05:37 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
What do I have to do, draw you a diagram! The shroud does not EXTEND down the heatsink, therfore all the cooling air will be inducted at the TOP EDGES of the heatsink, as the fan draws air from the SIDES at the bottom edge of it's shroud, meaning that only a small portion of the fins are being used. Whether or not this is sufficient do to the condutive nature of aluminum depends on design factors, such as the length of the fins. Sufice it to say that an ORB might work better this way if the curvature of the blades and the direction of rotation were to be reversed, because the fan sets low in the heatsink, but traditional coolers are mostly designed without the benefit of an extended shroud (although I have seen some that were on the net). My oversized Intel OEM cooler works great in a blow configuration, but because of the GAP at the sides of the shoud would be very much less efficient in the suck direction. And don't laugh too hard at Intel OEM coolers, Tom had good results with the one he tested, and mine is slightly larger than that one. I bought mine from a dealer who had "upgraded" someone to an orb, in order to replace the midsized cooler my processor came with.
 
Well, I would say that anyone who wonders which way works better should take a temp measurement, reverse the fan, and take another. I am not trying to argue the fan design with you. I am simply saying that pulling air off is better than blowing air on. Use a vaccume cleaner if ya want and do away with the fan altogether. :) If your fan is not good at pulling air off, then let it blow on if it works better for you. But if someone is taking the time to do the research and get a good heatsink, why not get one that effectively pulls air off the heat sink, and hence does a better job than one that simply blows air onto the sink?

The other side of this is that you don't need a fan to pull 500 cubic feet of air off the sink per hour. Ait doesn't transfer heat very effectively anyhow. The surface area and meterial in the heat sink to most of the work. All the fan does is make sure the hot air doesn't stagnate around the heatsink. If you blow it on, you create pressure pockets where the air DOES stagnate.

You fan might not pull it off at the speed and force that it pushes it on, but it doesn't need to. Also, once the fan begins pulling it off, it will be more efficient. Even if it pulls most of it's air from the side, it still pulls a little from the heat sink. Then new air flows in to take it's place, and creates a stream that stays perpetual with the fan.
 
Blowing air away from the HS creates a Low Pressure area below the fan which causes the closest air to travell to that point since the hot air taken away is now above the fan moving away the low pressure takes the air to the sides and around the HS drawing it accross the fins and cooling them. An Exaust fan on the case would then remove the air that is away from the HS (warm air) and the low pressure in the case sucks more in from the room.

When you Blow air towards the HS the fins get cooled and the high pressure area that is created in between the fins and arround the HS pushes out and then the warm air rises around the fan to the low pressure right above it. the warm air is then blown in the HS again and accross the fins and the cooling is not as eficient. A case exaust fan would then pull more cool air then warm out of the case.

Tynne of Baja
 
What works best for me:

- fan on heatsink blowing down onto heatsink
- exhaust fan in the back of the case blowing out

If I flip over the fan on the heatsink so it is sucking from the heatsink the CPU temp goes up at least 5C.

If I reverse the case fan at the back all the air it blows in is just sucked out by the power supply and both the case temp and the cpu temp go up over 15C.

If I move the case fan to the front lower part of the case blowing cool air IN both temps go up about 5C.

If I move the case fan to the front lower part of the case blowing air OUT both temps go up at least 10C.

As for how the air circulates within your case and around your heatsink I think it depends a lot on your individual case, where all those IDE ribbon cables are running, and where the exhaust fan(s) are mounted in your case.

(I have an Enlight 7230 series case)

- JW
 
That sounds about right.

An exhaust fan on the back usually works best, especially with a mid or full tower. The rear fan position is usually high on the case to take advantage of convection (hot air rises) and runs quieter than a front mounted one.

Cases are usually vented on the front at the bottom too, this works best as passive intake. For added flow (and noise) an intake fan can be used here.

Case ventilation is important in "equiped" boxes, the CPU fan won't stand a chance if the box is hot.

Gumby7
 
I think one problem is that socket A mb reviews always seem to under-read the C-orb temp by a wide margin. Usually about 10-12C too low. See my sig for more details.

That being said, C-orbs aren't the greatest heatsink in the world, and probably are only adequate up until 950-1ghz overclocks.


Mike

<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/socketatemps" target="_new">Socket A MBs: Temperature Accuracy and Comparison Issues</A>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom