Archived from groups: alt.sys.pc-clone.dell (
More info?)
Appreciate the integrity - basic technical knowledge - of so
many replies. For example, to meet UL standards, a power
strip must be able to provide 15 amps to any one receptacle OR
provide the total of 15 amps to all the receptacles. If any
receptacle is 'starved' for current, then a fire hazard exists
inside the power strip - it does not get a UL rating. However
another provided this app note from APC:
http://tinyurl.com/ctmng
> Using surge strips with APC's Back-UPS and Smart-UPS products.
> Surge protectors filter the power for surges and offer EMI/RFI
> filtering but do not efficiently distribute the power, meaning
> that some equipment may be deprived of the necessary amperage it
> requires to run properly – causing your attached equipment
> (computer, monitor, etc) to shutdown or reboot.
Are we to believe the EMI/RFI filtering starves some
receptacle with insufficient current? Who writes this stuff?
Well APC is promoted to those who don't have even basic
electrical knowledge which is why some foolishly praise APC
products.
Now for the electrical reasons why a power strip should not
be used on UPS outputs. Those UPSes imply they provided
cleaner power. So lets now do the numbers - what those so
many other posters never provided. This 120V UPS in battery
backup mode outputs two 200 volts square waves with up to a
270 volt spike between those square waves. The UPS
manufacturer calls that a modified sine wave. That distortion
of English so that those who recommend UPSes will 'hope' the
UPS outputs cleaner power.
Meanwhile, in battery backup mode, either the power strip
protector is quickly degraded OR the UPS is damaged. And so
we have the technical reasons why a power strip protector must
not be used on UPS outputs. APC, et al will not admit this in
app noted for the naive because it would demonstrate how
'dirty' UPS power really is.
Also nonsense is the myth that UPS provides effective
transient protection. That UPS only claims protection from a
type of transient that does not typically damage electronics.
What do they forget to mention? That UPS does not even claim
to protect from transients that typically destroy
electronics. Furthermore, effective protection costs about $1
per protected appliance and comes with more responsible names
such as Square D, Leviton, Intermatic, Siemens, Cutler Hammer,
Polyphaser, and GE.
The best power strip is one that costs $3+ at Home Depot,
Lowes, or WalMart and that contains THE most critical
protection device on a power strip - 15 amp circuit breaker.
This breaker not for transistor protection. That 15 amp
breaker is essential to human protection.
Now about AVR - and again some numbers. What is the voltage
range of that AVR? Well, any properly constructed computer
works just fine from 130 VAC down to 90 VAC. That means you
incandescent lamps are at less than 40% intensity and still
the computer must work just fine at 100%. Is your voltage
dropping that low? If so, then your electric motors are at
much greater risk. IOW AVR is more necessary for motorized
appliances. But the UPS cannot power motors. What is the AVR
doing ... once we include the numbers? Nothing if your
incandescent lamps are staying more than 50% bright.
APC and Tripplite are recommended by those without basic
electrical knowledge. A severe symptom of so many previous
posts. They did not provide numbers. Notice that once
numbers are applies, the claims take on a different tone.
Explained is why a power strip is not good on UPS outputs,
that the APC app note assumes the reader has no electrical
knowledge, AND that AVR solves what the power supply has
already made irrelevant.
Rob wrote:
> I've read about some ups's having their outlets too close to each
> other. With that in mind, if I use my current stuff which is all
> plugged into a surge protector (in a strip) and leave that as is and
> just unplug this surge protector from the wall and plug it into the
> ups (so I will therefore use just one outlet on this ups) and assuming
> I use an adequate powered ups, will this be okay? I may elect to not
> do this for some peripherals anyway like my scanner and printer. Or
> must I separate all the devices plugged into the surge protector and
> plug them separately in the ups? I will probably use at least a
> 300watt ups which seems to be adequate based on the Tripp Lite and APC
> web sites.
>
> Also not all ups's mention AVR. Is AVR that important for Houston,
> Texas electricity?
>
> I gather APC and Tripp Lite (sp??) are the best brands to go with?