Fascinating project you are working on. Are you keeping a web-site to show progress? I like to hear more about it and see some construction pictures if there are any.
Here are a couple links to Barry Aldous website, he has done polarized with LCD monitors and with DLP projectors.
http://www.aldous.net/photo/project08.htm
http://www.aldous.net/photo/project09.htm
He got the LCD monitor idea from Co van Ekeren (Mr. Co van Ekeren called it the "cobox"), although Planar makes a setup they call the "stereomirror" that is a free-standing frame, not a box.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Cobox.jpg
http://home.hetnet.nl/~wolkers1960/3digitaal/index.html (4th picture down)
http://www.planar.com/products/flatpanel_monitors/stereoscopic/
I plan to try the frame, but I need 2 working monitors and I must compile them from broken monitors on ebay, so far I have 1 1/2 working monitors (one has a bad backlight inverter, so I need to find one for spares)
Sources for parts on the Monitor setup:
$40 for a 15x10 piece of the special mirror needed for a 17" diagonal monitor: http://www.telepromptermirrors.com/
Silver screens (be sure to get the silver matte surface):
http://www.onlyscreens.com/versatol.htm
There are $144 100" diagonal 16x9 screens on that website, new direct from factory Da-Lite, high quality, my 70"x70" is built like a tank and has a free-standing tripod with full adjustment and a keystone eliminator arm.
Here is my thread on forums.nvidia, lots of nice links for projection there:
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=31636
http://www.berezin.com/3d/3dglasses.htm#Polarized is the place to buy your glasses and polarizing bits.
Heres an example which i find interesting. Has anyone worked with anything similar?
WHY invest all the effort in a 3d projection system and stereoscopic glasse for gaming purposes? The glasses bottleneck the effect to a single user. Why not just opt for glasses which incorporate stereoscopic features and eliminate the high-price of a projector?
Obviously the large screen will have benefits for the non-gaming/home theater folks (or several screens can replicate a large field of vision) BUT the cost differential (against the system in the article) for gaming ONLY is HUGE when compared to just
glasses themselves.
I'm really curious what people think.
Note: A quick google lead to icuiti auctions listed on ebay, there are several competitors, i cannot speak or vouch for anything other than an antiquated (crap) ELSA stereoscopic glasses and nVidia bundle with a CRT over 5 years ago.
As I say, dual DLP's are coming into the $500 price range, get two and use polarizing filters, you will see 1024x768 or 1280x1024 at a 50" - 100" screen size, and you will have 2 projectors when you aren't watching 3D. The glasses cost in the $0.50-$3.00 range and everyone can watch.
See
http://www.berezin.com/3d/3dglasses.htm#Polarized for the glasses, and for the polarizing filters, the $15 polarizers are fine for 3" lenses on the DLP's.
I think for the average gamer a dual LCD polarized monitor setup would give the best results, they are very high resolution and only need the mirror posted above (get the correct size for your display, custom sizes on that link).
The direct-view monitor setup is inexpensive, literally the cost of 2 LCD's and a frame and mirror, also it doesn't take up much room on a desk, it just overhangs the second monitor. Since LCD's are so cheap and you probably already use one the cost is significantly reduced if you can find a used twin of your monitor on eBay for 1/2 or less the new MSRP, this coupled with the Nvidia dual-output mode enables true flicker and ghost-free images.
If you must do projection (can't say I blame you

), look above at Barry Aldous website for his setup, ANY DLP will work, you just need two and some inexpensive polarizers. Note that you can use $500 models and then when not projecting in 3D you could have 2 projectors for separate movies/rooms/multiplayer gaming or extra-wide-screen projection.
Like I say the technology is out there, but everyone thinks anaglyph and shutter, although the polarized setups have higher contrast than all but the most expensive shutter glasses ($200-$400), and are passive, inexpensive and suffer no timing or flickering issues (I get intense migraine headaches from refresh rates in the 60hz range, thus I would need a 120hz or higher, preferably 140hz, DLP projector and accompanying glasses, very expensive and silly considering the available alternatize).
My camera is finally working, I just need a USB cable now and I can get some pictures of all of the goodies I am working on. It is a special Fuji connector and I ordered one on eBay.