Question What is the problem here and how do I resolve this ?

[aroy1995]

LINK TO MY DISPLAY PROBLEM

This issue is with a working 1080 Ti graphics card. This issue is happening with a new system I built, and I tried to boot it.

 

[Aeacus]

Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

Based on screenshot - video artifacts. Either GPU or monitor issue.

Also, when do you see such image? At POST? At boot up (in OS)? At some point when you do what exactly?
With 0 info about issue or how it came about - it is impossible to diagnose it.

 

[aroy1995]

Full specs are as follows:

Processor: i5 12400f
RAM: 32 GB DDR4 (2x16 GB)
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC 11G
PSU: CORSAIR CV650 (New)
MOBO: MSI Pro H610M E
Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G3 24-inch Gaming Monitor

This issue is happening at POST. Just after switching on the PC.

I’m happy to share any additional info.

PS.: Monitor is working fine when connected as an external display to my laptop.

 

[Aeacus]

PSU: CORSAIR CV650 (New)

Any particular reason why you bought it, other than the cheap price? 🤔

This issue is happening at POST. Just after switching on the PC.

Then, it most likely is your GPU.

Since you have F-suffix CPU, you do not have iGPU. So, to validate GPU issue, you need 2nd, known to work GPU, to test how system fares.
You can also plop your GTX 1080 Ti into another system and look if it artifacts there as well.

But before you put replacement GPU in your system, do replace the PSU. Since what you have, is a low quality PSU. And most likely the reason why you have your issues.

For 2nd opinion about your PSU, look it up from PSU tier list,
link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet.../htmlview?pli=1&gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078

You'll find it being Tier C. While for the build what you have (especially due to GTX 1080 Ti), bare minimum would be Tier A PSU, while Tier A+ is preferred.

(E.g my 3x PCs are powered by Seasonic. I have PRIME 650 Titanium (Tier A+), PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium (Tier A+) and Focus PX-550 unit (Tier A). Full specs with pics in my sig.)

 

[aroy1995]

Thanks!

You're right, I’m using a CPU with the F-suffix, so no iGPU fallback here. I’ll test the GTX 1080 Ti in another known-working system to see if the artifacting persists.

Also, I appreciate the heads-up about the PSU. I got the Corsair CV650 with my build for free, but I see now that it's a Tier C unit on the PSU tier list.

Could you please suggest a good Tier A or A+ PSU? ( I saw the list online but I’m fairly confused)

Thanks again for the guidance!

 

[Eximo]

Since you just built it, also try re-seating the CPU.

On the cheaper side:
A+
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jZ...ular-atx-power-supply-corereactorii650g-bkcus
A
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zn...ertified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn503

Recommended:
A+
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zf...ular-atx-power-supply-corereactorii750g-bkcus

There are a few others I might take a swing on from the likes of MSI and Thermaltake, but they are very new models and haven't been reviewed much.

 

[Aeacus]

Could you please suggest a good Tier A or A+ PSU? ( I saw the list online but I’m fairly confused)

Depends on your budget and IF your GTX 1080 Ti survived.

If it did survived, your GPU can spike up to 474W. ~200W for the rest of the system and total combined ~675W. Meaning 850W PSU to power it all.

Here's video about GPU transient power spikes:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRyyCsuHFQ


That being said, take your pick: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/4/

If not and you're looking towards new GPU, then 850W unit can comfortably power up to RTX 5070 Ti. Step up from it, RTX 5080, would require 1kW PSU.

For new unit, and from the link i gave, Super Flower Leadex VII is great (Tier A+). Same with NZXT C850 (Tier A+). Seasonic Focus GX-850 ATX 3.1 is also good (Tier A-).

On the cheaper side:
A+
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jZ...ular-atx-power-supply-corereactorii650g-bkcus
A
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zn...ertified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn503

That's new, GTX 1080 Ti spikes to ~475W, CPU turbos to 117W and you're suggesting 650W unit for the whole build?

 

[geofelt]

Without a review from a respected psu review site, your best indicator of quality is the warranty.
7 years is decent, but 10 or 12 years gets you a very good quality unit.

Also, 650w may do you for now, but you may want to install a much stronger graphics card in the future.
Look for 750w or 850w. The price differential is usually modest.
A psu will only consume the wattage demanded of it, regardless of the max capability.

 

[Eximo]

I would classify the 5070Ti and 5080 together at 850W, though 1000W would be more margin with the 360W 5080. If you include overclocking.

10 series isn't as well known for the high transient spikes as the 20 series and up. Any decent ATX 3.0/3.1 unit should be able to handle double its load for transient GPU spike durations.

I run a 350W 3080Ti + 12700kf on a RM850x (2016) with no issues. They aren't cheap but you can still get RM850x units, the Shift is usually the cheapest, but it has power cables coming out the side instead of the usual position, so you have double check your case for compatibility.

I would feel comfortable with a 750W unit for the 12400F and 1080 Ti. CPU might draw 60-80W in games.

 

[Aeacus]

I would classify the 5070Ti and 5080 together at 850W, though 1000W would be more margin with the 360W 5080. If you include overclocking.

It doesn't hurt to over-provision wattage wise. So, personally, i draw the line at 300W GPU (850W PSU). 320W GPU (e.g RTX 4080), i'd look at 1kW unit.

Any decent ATX 3.0/3.1 unit should be able to handle double its load for transient GPU spike durations.

Yes, but that then relies on the protections of the PSU (that may fail once PSU gets older). Going higher with wattage is a safer bet. And 850W unit doesn't cost a lot more than 750W unit. Usually they cost the same (or can be even a bit cheaper depending on stock amounts).

 

[aroy1995]

Since you just built it, also try re-seating the CPU.

On the cheaper side:
A+
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jZ...ular-atx-power-supply-corereactorii650g-bkcus
A
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zn...ertified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn503

Recommended:
A+
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zf...ular-atx-power-supply-corereactorii750g-bkcus

There are a few others I might take a swing on from the likes of MSI and Thermaltake, but they are very new models and haven't been reviewed much.

Thanks for the suggestion!
Yes, I did try reseating the CPU, but it didn’t work.

 

[Eximo]

Not lately it seems to me. The price difference between a good 750W unit and a good 850W unit can be as much as $40-50. Not much in the grand scheme of things, but a significant chunk of many budget builds.

The mid-range PSUs and the high end lower wattage units have more overlap. My current issue with recommendations is all the new ATX 3.1 PSUs that don't yet have reviews or teardowns. A minefield of similar model names and brand recognition.

In the case of transient spikes, relying on the protection is possibly desirable? Allows the PSU to briefly go beyond 100% duty cycle. Selecting your PSU so that it is larger than any possible transient means you are likely to be below optimal efficiency during regular operation. Not sure I have seen anyone investigate it from that perspective.

Older PSUs also allowed for excursions beyond 100%, but the duration was too short for the new larger GPUs. Seasonic Platinum units had serious issues with 3080/3090 cards as I recall, even though they were quite often 850W or 1000W units. OCP just kicked in too quickly and caused shutdowns.

 

[Eximo]

Thanks for the suggestion!
Yes, I did try reseating the CPU, but it didn’t work.

No other PCIe slot to try, so that is about it. If you can get ahold of another GPU to test with, you can confirm the CPU/Board are working correctly. Particularly if the 1080 Ti works in another system.

 

[Bo Lee]

LINK TO MY DISPLAY PROBLEM

This issue is with a working 1080 Ti graphics card. This issue is happening with a new system I built, and I tried to boot it.

i had a similar issue once. the problem rurned out to be a bad video cable.

 

[aroy1995]

i had a similar issue once. the problem rurned out to be a bad video cable.

Thanks for the suggestion. But I have checked the HDMI cable (also used another HDMI cable and monitor with my laptop (as a secondary display), and there were no artefacts during that use. Also, I used a different HDMI cable and same results. So, this possibly rules out the monitor, video cable connection/ports.

 

[aroy1995]

No other PCIe slot to try, so that is about it. If you can get a hold of another GPU to test with, you can confirm the CPU/Board are working correctly. Particularly if the 1080 Ti works in another system.

I tested my system with another GPU, and it booted up without any issues. So it looks like the problem is with the GTX 1080 Ti. Although I’m sure that it is the GPU’s fault, I’ll still test the 1080 Ti in another PC to confirm. Thanks for your help!

 

[aroy1995]

Any particular reason why you bought it, other than the cheap price? 🤔


Then, it most likely is your GPU.

Since you have F-suffix CPU, you do not have iGPU. So, to validate GPU issue, you need 2nd, known to work GPU, to test how system fares.
You can also plop your GTX 1080 Ti into another system and look if it artifacts there as well.

But before you put replacement GPU in your system, do replace the PSU. Since what you have, is a low quality PSU. And most likely the reason why you have your issues.

For 2nd opinion about your PSU, look it up from PSU tier list,
link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet.../htmlview?pli=1&gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078

You'll find it being Tier C. While for the build what you have (especially due to GTX 1080 Ti), bare minimum would be Tier A PSU, while Tier A+ is preferred.

(E.g my 3x PCs are powered by Seasonic. I have PRIME 650 Titanium (Tier A+), PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium (Tier A+) and Focus PX-550 unit (Tier A). Full specs with pics in my sig.)

Yes, I tested the system with another, known, working GPU, and everything worked perfectly. That confirms the issue is with the GTX 1080 Ti.

I also appreciate the PSU advice. I’ll be replacing this PSU with a Super Flower Leadex VII ( before trying another GPU). Hope this PSU future-proofs my current build in terms of power. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction!

Lastly, could you suggest a good replacement for the GTX 1080 Ti? I’m not looking for a newer generation card — just something with similar (or better) performance that's currently available in the market, does not require excessive cooling and won’t bottleneck my system.

• CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F
• Motherboard: MSI Pro H610M E DDR4
• RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2×16GB) 3200MHz
• Primary Storage: WD Black SN770 1TB NVMe SSD
• Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G3 24-inch Gaming Monitor

 

[SkyNetRising]

Lastly, could you suggest a good replacement for the GTX 1080 Ti?
I’m not looking for a newer generation card — just something with similar (or better) performance that's currently available in the market

Budget is your main limitation.

These cards would have similar performance:

RTX 4060​

RX 7600​

RX 6600 XT​

 

[LOGAN54321]

replacement for the GTX 1080 Ti

If available for not much more than 300 usd/euro, how about intel B580.

 

[aroy1995]

If available for not much more than 300 usd/euro, how about intel B580.

I checked, and Intel Arc B580 is out of stock in most places. But I’m getting an Intel Arc A770 at around 350 USD.

 

[aroy1995]

Budget is your main limitation.

These cards would have similar performance:

RTX 4060​

RX 7600​

RX 6600 XT​

Hi,
Aren’t these cards weaker as compared to the 1080 Ti with some performance drop?

 

[Eximo]

In some cases yes, but also no. 1080 Ti was 3584 CUDA cores and 8 years old. RTX 3060 12GB has that many cores, plus clock speed and features and only a little less bandwidth.

RTX4060 is a little smaller, but newer. Less VRAM and bandwidth though so it won't be able to load all the high res textures. RX7600 and 6600XT are a little less performance than the 4060.

5060 launches soon, and may be a competitive product.

A770 is a good choice though. Roughly an RTX 3060 in most games, but also has 16GB VRAM which means a little more flexibility.

B580 competes with the RTX 4060, but has 12GB memory which allows for some higher settings at about the same FPS.

 

[SkyNetRising]

Aren’t these cards weaker as compared to the 1080 Ti with some performance drop?

About the same.
See relative performance section in this link:

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-gtx-1080-ti.c2877

We still don't know your budget.
How much are you willing to spend?

 

[Aeacus]

Lastly, could you suggest a good replacement for the GTX 1080 Ti? I’m not looking for a newer generation card — just something with similar (or better) performance that's currently available in the market, does not require excessive cooling and won’t bottleneck my system.

A bit late to the party. But you've already had good suggestions on which GPU to go for.

Though, to see uplift from previous GPU, relative performance should be 20% or more. Else-ways, you couldn't tell much a diff.
That would give you RTX 5060 Ti,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=593&sort=price&page=1

 

[helper800]

It doesn't hurt to over-provision wattage wise. So, personally, i draw the line at 300W GPU (850W PSU). 320W GPU (e.g RTX 4080), i'd look at 1kW unit.


Yes, but that then relies on the protections of the PSU (that may fail once PSU gets older). Going higher with wattage is a safer bet. And 850W unit doesn't cost a lot more than 750W unit. Usually they cost the same (or can be even a bit cheaper depending on stock amounts).

I have a 5800X3D and a 5090 at an 80% power limit on a Prime Titanium 850w PSU from 2019. I have also run it at 100% power. The max power draw I saw from the wall was 760w. That means that the PC was using around 690 watts. The TG wire pro never went above 470w at the 80% limit and 580w without the power limit. I was testing with Cyberpunk 2077 at 4k. I have been running this fine for about 2 months now. A quality 850w unit for a 5080 and below assuming an AMD 8 core CPU and platform is used should not be an issue. 1KW for a 5090/4090 is fine. I know I am pushing the limits with an 850w PSU, however, I don't like how people assume wattage minimums arbitrarily with no testing or references to testing by reviewers.