[SOLVED] AIO suddenly not doing its job

[Kacpers25]

Hi everyone,
I have recently moved house and when booting up a game I noticed some choppy frames and in idle noticed my fan speeds were a bit high. I replaced the thermal paste as it was a 2 year old hydronaut paste, and it got even worse (however the paste I reapplied was no name). I proceeded to order some more hydronaut and after reapplying it I found the temps to be lower however they are still very high, around 70C on idle. To me the pump seems to be running when I touch the tubes, and HWinfo seems to confirm that. I've also retightened the cooler with quite a lot of pressure so I doubt bad contact is the cause. I have also tried to flip my PC around to move any air bubbles that may be obstructing water flow, with no avail. As I seem to be unable to add an image I have added raw data, this is quite soon after launching the system.

My temps prior would be idling at low 40s, so this is very high in comparison. I am desperate for help at this point, massively appreciate any help!


CPU: R5 5600X
MBD: ASUS B550-E
GPU: ASUS 3060Ti TUF
RAM: 3000MT/s 16T G.SKILL
AIO: 240mm Lian Li Galahad

Voltage 0 5.00 Volts [0x7D] (+5V)
Voltage 1 3.34 Volts [0xD1] (+3.3V)
Voltage 2 12.00 Volts [0x7D] (+12V)
Voltage 3 0.50 Volts [0x3E] (VIN3)
Voltage 4 0.46 Volts [0x1D] (VIN4)
Voltage 5 1.30 Volts [0x51] (VCORE)
Voltage 6 1.02 Volts [0x80] (VIN6)
Voltage 7 0.64 Volts [0x28] (VIN7)
Temperature 0 26 degC (78 degF) [0x1A] (Mainboard)
Temperature 1 71 degC (159 degF) [0x47] (CPU)
Temperature 2 26 degC (78 degF) [0x1A] (TMPIN2)
Temperature 3 55 degC (131 degF) [0x37] (TMPIN3)
Temperature 4 95 degC (203 degF) [0x5F] (TMPIN4)
Temperature 5 26 degC (78 degF) [0x1A] (TMPIN5)
Temperature 6 26 degC (78 degF) [0x1A] (TMPIN6)
Temperature 8 71 degC (159 degF) [0x47] (TMPIN8)
Fan 1 1244 RPM [0x4DC] (CPU)
Fan 2 1155 RPM [0x483] (Chassis #2)
Fan 3 1170 RPM [0x492] (Chassis #3)
Fan 4 3479 RPM [0xD97] (Chassis #4)

 

[Ralston18]

PSU: make, model, wattage , age, condition (original to build, new, refurbished, used)?

History of heavy use for gaming, video editing,, or even bit mining?

Are there any older printouts showing earlier/baseline voltages or documentation showing what the expected voltages and voltage ranges should be?

Likewise for the listed temperatures and fan speeds.

Fan 4 - wondering about that 3479 RPM measurement. 3 x the other fans. Seems astray....

 

[LordVile]

PSU: make, model, wattage , age, condition (original to build, new, refurbished, used)?

History of heavy use for gaming, video editing,, or even bit mining?

Are there any older printouts showing earlier/baseline voltages or documentation showing what the expected voltages and voltage ranges should be?

Likewise for the listed temperatures and fan speeds.

Fan 4 - wondering about that 3479 RPM measurement. 3 x the other fans. Seems astray....

Fan 4 might be at the rear of the case and a smaller size

 

[Kacpers25]

PSU: make, model, wattage , age, condition (original to build, new, refurbished, used)?

History of heavy use for gaming, video editing,, or even bit mining?

Are there any older printouts showing earlier/baseline voltages or documentation showing what the expected voltages and voltage ranges should be?

Likewise for the listed temperatures and fan speeds.

Fan 4 - wondering about that 3479 RPM measurement. 3 x the other fans. Seems astray....

PSU: EVGA 750BQ 80 Plus BRONZE, purchased new December 2018. Mostly used for gaming, but majority of the time for esports games.

In terms of power use the CPU normally ranges between 90-130W under load (usually 1.20V-1.35V), while now it is limited by temps.

Unfortunately I do not have any older print outs, I have an old time spy run but that does not show anything other than that the CPU boosted to 4,874 MHz.

My fan config is 2 intake stock fractal case fans, and the top mounted AIO Lian Li fans.

Any idea how I could provide useful readouts?
Thanks for the help!

 

[Ralston18]

That 4 year old PSU is an immediate suspect, All the more so with a history of gaming use.

Remember that PSU's provide three different voltages (3.3, 5, and 12) to various system components. Any voltages out of tolerance or any PSU inability to meet peak/sudden power demands is going to cause problems.

Normally I would expect BSODs, freeze ups, or other problems that result from a faltering or failing PSU. With such problems being captured by Reliability History logs or Event Viewer logs.

Do you you have any access to another known working (no problems) PSU? If possible swap in another PSU and remember to only use the power cables that come with that PSU.

If a test PSU is not possible then there are still other things you can do.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Clean out dust and debris.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers, and case connections are fully and firmly in place.

Use a bright flashlight to inspect for any signs of damage: bare conductor showing, melting, kinked or pinched wires, missing or loose screws, browned or blackened areas or components. Swollen or wet looking components. Cracks.

As for images: Use imgur to post images herein (www.imgur.com).

Also:

"My fan config is 2 intake stock fractal case fans, and the top mounted AIO Lian Li fans. "

How does that map to the four fans listed in your original post? Per @LordVile 's post - where is Fan 4? Specs- make, model, size?

 

[DSzymborski]

Feel the cooler tubes when the system is running. Do the tubes feel like different temperatures or the same/nearly the same?

 

[Kacpers25]

That 4 year old PSU is an immediate suspect, All the more so with a history of gaming use.

Remember that PSU's provide three different voltages (3.3, 5, and 12) to various system components. Any voltages out of tolerance or any PSU inability to meet peak/sudden power demands is going to cause problems.

Normally I would expect BSODs, freeze ups, or other problems that result from a faltering or failing PSU. With such problems being captured by Reliability History logs or Event Viewer logs.

Do you you have any access to another known working (no problems) PSU? If possible swap in another PSU and remember to only use the power cables that come with that PSU.

If a test PSU is not possible then there are still other things you can do.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Clean out dust and debris.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers, and case connections are fully and firmly in place.

Use a bright flashlight to inspect for any signs of damage: bare conductor showing, melting, kinked or pinched wires, missing or loose screws, browned or blackened areas or components. Swollen or wet looking components. Cracks.

As for images: Use imgur to post images herein (www.imgur.com).

Also:

"My fan config is 2 intake stock fractal case fans, and the top mounted AIO Lian Li fans. "

How does that map to the four fans listed in your original post? Per @LordVile 's post - where is Fan 4? Specs- make, model, size?

Now that you mention it, I have been experiencing BSODs. Initially I thought this was due to me adding an M.2 SSD as it started occurring after I added it. Turning the computer on and off would not fix the BSOD so I would disconnect it, resit the SSD and turn it on again after which it would work. I eventually figured out I only had to flick the PSU switch to fix the issue. I might have a PSU that I can borrow from my roommates PC and try to test it as it does seem rather suspicious.

Not sure if this is still necessary but the 2 front fans are 12V120mm 1200RPM Dynamic X2 GP-12 Fractal Design fans, while the AIO fans are 12V 800-1900RPM PWM.

I'm just wondering how can a faulty power supply cause my CPU to overheat?

Here are HWinfo readings after a few hours of runtime:

https://imgur.com/a/OmwTkfn

View: https://imgur.com/a/OmwTkfn

 

[Kacpers25]

Feel the cooler tubes when the system is running. Do the tubes feel like different temperatures or the same/nearly the same?

One tube is definitely cooler than the other, which makes me think the AIO is doing its job right? It all seems very confusing to me right now.

 

[Phaaze88]

One tube is definitely cooler than the other, which makes me think the AIO is doing its job right?

No, quite the opposite. If flow is good, you should have a hard time telling the difference, or a slight one, between the 2.

 

[Kacpers25]

No, quite the opposite. If flow is good, you should have a hard time telling the difference, or a slight one, between the 2.

So I have just put on the stock Ryzen cooler, hovering just below 80C in Cinebench. The AIO was hitting 95 seconds after running the test. Looks like I've got an RMA to fill out.

Voltages seem fine, should I still consider changing my PSU? The random BSODs still intrigue me.

Anyways thanks for all the help guys!

https://imgur.com/VFgne2G

View: https://imgur.com/VFgne2G

 

[DSzymborski]

To expand on Phaaze's correct post, while it may seem counter-intuitive that the tubes should feel the same temperature, that's actually accurate. AIOs are able to cool effectively because of the speed in which the liquid flows. If the second tube is cooler, it means that one little trip to the radiator and being blown on in a fan cools far more than is possible. Think of a cup of coffee; you can blow much harder in a short burst than the typical cooling fan, but even the top of your coffee isn't going to get much cooler from a single burst of blown air.

In the end because of the speed of an AIO, the difference in temperature between the liquid going into the radiator and the cooled liquid leaving the radiator is only a couple of degrees C. I doubt many could detect that difference by feel! So when you feel a hot tube and a cold tube, it almost always means either a blockage or a pump failure.

Now, it's different with your home central air conditioner, which uses a very different process by highly compressing a refrigerant. The pipes will feel quite different because of this and it's why an AC unit can cool below ambient temperature while the AIO in your PC can't. You'll occasionally see people play with phase change cooling in PCs, but it's impractical consumer applications because condensation can become a very big problem if the cooling is effective.

 

[Kacpers25]

To expand on Phaaze's correct post, while it may seem counter-intuitive that the tubes should feel the same temperature, that's actually accurate. AIOs are able to cool effectively because of the speed in which the liquid flows. If the second tube is cooler, it means that one little trip to the radiator and being blown on in a fan cools far more than is possible. Think of a cup of coffee; you can blow much harder in a short burst than the typical cooling fan, but even the top of your coffee isn't going to get much cooler from a single burst of blown air.

In the end because of the speed of an AIO, the difference in temperature between the liquid going into the radiator and the cooled liquid leaving the radiator is only a couple of degrees C. I doubt many could detect that difference by feel! So when you feel a hot tube and a cold tube, it almost always means either a blockage or a pump failure.

Now, it's different with your home central air conditioner, which uses a very different process by highly compressing a refrigerant. The pipes will feel quite different because of this and it's why an AC unit can cool below ambient temperature while the AIO in your PC can't. You'll occasionally see people play with phase change cooling in PCs, but it's impractical consumer applications because condensation can become a very big problem if the cooling is effective.

Thank you for elaborating! I'm going to guess it's a pump failure as I'm not sure how a blockage would suddenly form. However, this did happen after I moved flats so maybe there is a possibility of a blockage.

All in all I've tried to RMA the damn thing but Lian Li seems to keep closing their RMA forms for every little holiday they can find.