[SOLVED] Computer Freezes with still image with brand new parts. Help?

[Alex_Lexa]

Hello Forum.
I recently bought new parts for my PC and i have freezing problems, can you please help? :/

----PC----

● GPU : RTX 3080 ZOTAC AMP HOLO 10GB
● CPU : Intel i5-13600k
● RAM : Kingston HyperX Fury RGB 32GB CL16 3200Mhz
● MOBO : ASUS ROG STRIX z790-a wifi gaming d4
● SSD : SAMSUNG EVO 870 - 500 GB (6 Gbps) 2x
● M2 : SAMSUNG EVO 970 Pro 256 GB NVMe M2 Gen4
● HDD: Toshiba 7200 Rpm 1TB
● PSU : Seasonic Prime TX-Titanium 92+ 850w
● CPU COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition

----PERIPHERALS----

● Keyboard : ASUS ROG STRIX SCOPE
● Monitor : Samsung Odysey 27' 1920 x 1080 pixels @ 240 Hz
● Mouse : Asus ROG Chakram Core
● Case : MS Armour RGB
● Speakers : Genius GX Gaming Scorpion SW-G2.1 2000
● Headset : HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Alpha
● OS : Windows 11 Pro 64-bit Digital Licence


----PROBLEM----

New parts are MOBO and CPU.
The problem is when i boot into windows it all works (sometimes) i play games at MAX settings for like 2+hrs to stress test the stability etc...
Everything works and at a random time and random game/Youtube/internet browsing the picture just freezes, sound stops and i can't click or press anything (No excessive fan noise or anything) everything just STOPS.
When i try to reboot the system it SOMETIMES reboots right up and sometimes it powers on does the checkup with Qled diagnostics that Asus ROG MOBO has and shuts itself off and powers up again, starts loading the windows and freezes at the loading with the dotts/loading animation that windows has when booting up and i have to restart again. And the cycle goes on and on. Sometimes it work sometimes it decides to freeze. BIOS works fine without crashes or freezes.



----WHAT I HAVE TRIED----

Re-installing windows.
Plugging in just the essentials (keyboard, VGA, Mouse).
Flashing BIOS from version 3020 to 5030 and 7040.
Tried different RAM memory sticks (single and dual channel).
Used different SSD/M2 (unplugged rest and fresh win install)
Re-seating CPU and Cooler.
Updating all of the drivers POSSIBLE (Chipset, Windows, Sata, IO, Controllers, Firmware, Peripherals, Audio, VGA(nvidia), etc).
Installed IObit driver booster (didn't help)
Tried with a different PSU.
Used integrated GPU.
Different peripherals and monitor.
Re-seating all the cables and cleaning all of the pins on MOBO and attachables.
Reset BIOS to factory defaults.
Disabled C-state in BIOS.
Disabled XMP in BIOS.
Disabled Hyper Threading in BIOS.
Disabled AI Overclocking in BIOS.
Tried changing other settings suggested on the internet in BIOS (UEFI, AHCI, Fast Boot...etc).
Did memtest86 for 2,5hrs (passed).
Did Windows Memory Diagnostic (passed).
Did CPU stress test (passed with maxtemp 87c).
Did GPU stress test (passed with maxtemp 86c).
Event Viewer doesn't have anything useful except "kernel stopped working" blah blah...


----NOTE----

The PC never just shuts off to a black screen because of the Over Current Protection (it can handle the components)
Parts were purchased Brand NEW (MOBO, CPU)
Airflow and temperatures are OK
No burning smell in the case/components
PC is not slow/slower or slowing down even when fully under load
BSOD never showed up


----WHAT DO YOU THINK----


The only 2 things i haven't tried is replacing CPU or MOBO because i don't have a different one.
Do you think this is a CPU or MOBO hardware or software issue?
Are there please ANY ideas what i can try next?

 

[Lutfij]

Parts were purchased Brand NEW (MOBO, CPU)
So the system specs listed above was an upgrade with the parts outside of motherboard and CPU being carried over from a prior machine?

CPU COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition
I'd have looked into a beefy cooler that was made by Noctua(among other brands) to work with your build.

Installed IObit driver booster (didn't help)
Avoid that like you would the plague, not kidding here. It's been known to brick motherboards since it stated that their motherboard needed a BIOS update in spite of the board lacking any BIOS updates for it's platform. In general, you should manually source any and/or all drivers from the component maker's or AIB partners support site, bespoke to your device. Not take the aid of a third party app or even an app of sorts.

RAM : Kingston HyperX Fury RGB 32GB CL16 3200Mhz
Can you pass on a link to the ram kit?

Using Samsung's Magician App, can you check and see if your drives are pending any firmware updates?

 

[Alex_Lexa]

Parts were purchased Brand NEW (MOBO, CPU)
So the system specs listed above was an upgrade with the parts outside of motherboard and CPU being carried over from a prior machine?

CPU COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition
I'd have looked into a beefy cooler that was made by Noctua(among other brands) to work with your build.

Installed IObit driver booster (didn't help)
Avoid that like you would the plague, not kidding here. It's been known to brick motherboards since it stated that their motherboard needed a BIOS update in spite of the board lacking any BIOS updates for it's platform. In general, you should manually source any and/or all drivers from the component maker's or AIB partners support site, bespoke to your device. Not take the aid of a third party app or even an app of sorts.

RAM : Kingston HyperX Fury RGB 32GB CL16 3200Mhz
Can you pass on a link to the ram kit?

Using Samsung's Magician App, can you check and see if your drives are pending any firmware updates?

Thanks for the reply and suggestions


-So the system specs listed above was an upgrade with the parts outside of motherboard and CPU being carried over from a prior machine?
Everything else stayed the same from last machine only MOBO and CPU were bought brand new and combined with "old" parts (RAM, PSU, SSD,Case)

-I'd have looked into a beefy cooler that was made by Noctua(among other brands) to work with your build.
Yeah i will buy an AIO 360 cooler but for testing purposes till i get the money this one does the job so far (maxtemp 87c)

-Avoid that like you would the plague, not kidding here. It's been known to brick motherboards since it stated that their motherboard needed a BIOS update in spite of the board lacking any BIOS updates for it's platform. In general, you should manually source any and/or all drivers from the component maker's or AIB partners support site, bespoke to your device. Not take the aid of a third party app or even an app of sorts.
Yeah i know, i never used those but it was suggested on some forum so i did it as a "last resort" It did not help or made it worse (thank god)

-Can you pass on a link to the ram kit?
Sure, The ram is fine as it was tested and used before but okay https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-3200MHz-Desktop-KF432C16BBAK4-32/dp/B097HP55LP

-Using Samsung's Magician App, can you check and see if your drives are pending any firmware updates?
Did try that but i forgot to mention. All of them are "up to date"

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

If you have done many bios updates, and you haven't 'cleared CMOS', then this could be the cause.

How to clear CMOS? | Official Support | ASUS Global

 

[Alex_Lexa]

If you have done many bios updates, and you haven't 'cleared CMOS', then this could be the cause.

How to clear CMOS? | Official Support | ASUS Global

|
Hi, Roland, Thanks for the reply

This started happening 2hrs after i built the PC and started gaming. I was playing normally with the "factory BIOS"
After freezing started happening i tried to fix it with BIOS updates etc...
Also this MOBO has the Clear CMOS and FLSH BIOS integrated buttons which are very useful.
And yes, i did do it the "old fashioned way" i did remove the battery physically and waited 30sec

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

No probs. Glad to offer advice

The other issue that springs to mind is the transient power spike issue with RTX GPU's with Seasonic Platinum models. Essentially the overprotection's are set too low. Normally it manifests in random shut downs, but also hard freezes. It happens when the GPU power spikes (only for a split second), goes back to normal (typically). Some really good PSU's have this issue.

Is the PSU bought new too? If so, I'd consider swapping it out for something like an RMX850w + which would take out the whole transients issue.

Edited for clarification.

 

[Alex_Lexa]

No probs. Glad to offer advice

The other issue that springs to mind is the transient power spike issue with RTX GPU's with Seasonic Platinum models. Essentially the overprotection's are set too low. Normally it manifests in random shut downs, but also hard freezes. It happens when the GPU power spikes (only for a split second), goes back to normal (typically). Some really good PSU's have this issue.

Is the PSU bought new too? If so, I'd consider swapping it out for something like an RMX850w + which would take out the whole transients issue.

Edited for clarification.

Good suggestion. Came to my mind as well but...
I unplugged the RTX 3080 and used ONLY integrated graphics off off CPU and same thing kept happening.
That is where I left out the PSU as an culprit option.
And i also used a different PSU just to test, same results.

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

Have you run memtest86+ on the ram to test it outside of Windows?

 

[Alex_Lexa]

Have you run memtest86+ on the ram to test it outside of Windows?

Hi, Roland.

Yes i have, there is also memtest86 integrated into ASUS ROG motherboard that has ran for 2+ Hrs with no error on all 32GB.
RAM is 100% working right now on my "old" Gigabyte z590 AORUS Ultra motherboard.

 

[Alex_Lexa]

I supose no one has other suggestions. Thanks guys for the help. I will RMA the MOBO and get back to you about this

 

[Alex_Lexa]

Thank you all for sharing great ideas. I got an idea from the friend of mine to check my power outlets in the house and i exchanged OLD extension cords for brand new APC and everything is stable and working. Guess the power gremlin was hiding really good