Question Desktop PC turns on in one building, but not another

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lewisha

Jun 5, 2022
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1
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Hi everyone,

I don't usually come to message boards without trying an extensive list of options beforehand - however even the savviest of tech people I know can't seem to get their head around this, so maybe you can help me.

Backstory:

I have a desktop PC with a Gigabyte H510M-H motherboard, and a 10700 processor, GTX1050 Ti low profile (as this was initially a super small form factor build).
The 10700 was running hot, so I took it in to get it re-pasted and a new fan on it, I got a Noctua NH-L9i fan, in the shop after the guy had done the installation - he showed me it booting fine and the temperature improvements (there was about 15 degrees chipped off).

However, when I took my PC home after this upgrade, I plugged it in and it would not boot, it was giving out 5 beeps, indicating a CPU failure, however every time I take it to this guys shop it works fine on first try? Boots immediately into Windows.

Now, I have completely rebuilt everything inside a different case, tried 2 different power supplies, and yet the problem stills persists.

Could anyone please help me with any idea of what this could be? I have been using computers a long time and I never have had an issue like this.

Many thanks for all of your help,
Lewis
 
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lewisha said:
Hi everyone,

I don't usually come to message boards without trying an extensive list of options beforehand - however even the savviest of tech people I know can't seem to get their head around this, so maybe you can help me.

Backstory:

I have a desktop PC with a Gigabyte H510M-H motherboard, and a 10700 processor, GTX1050 Ti low profile (as this was initially a super small form factor build).
The 10700 was running hot, so I took it in to get it re-pasted and a new fan on it, I got a Noctua NH-L9i fan, in the shop after the guy had done the installation - he showed me it booting fine and the temperature improvements (there was about 15 degrees chipped off).

However, when I took my PC home after this upgrade, I plugged it in and it would not boot, it was giving out 5 beeps, indicating a CPU failure, however every time I take it to this guys shop it works fine on first try? Boots immediately into Windows.

Now, I have completely rebuilt everything inside a different case, tried 2 different power supplies, and yet the problem stills persists.

Could anyone please help me with any idea of what this could be? I have been using computers a long time and I never have had an issue like this.

Many thanks for all of your help,
Lewis
Click to expand...
Could your mains power be low?
Maybe a meter like this could help -- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maxcio-Electricity-Overload-Consumption-Analyzer/dp/B08HWC1XTG/
 
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Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

If the system remains the same throughout the journey from your crib to the shop and the only difference between your place and the shop is the power outlet, you might be having an issue with your power/there's a grounding issue.

Might want to list your specs like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
for better context.
 
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Thanks very much Lutfij,

My specs are as follows:

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700 (Stock non-K non-H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte H510 M H
Ram: 32GB Corsair Vengeance 2666 MHz
SSD/HDD: m.2 Intel 512gb and Samsung Evo 1TB
GPU: 1050ti Low Profile
PSU: Silverstone FX-350G Gold and also trying a 600W EVGA Bronze
Chassis: Antec Case
OS: Win10
Monitor: Benq XL2411P
for better context.
 
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May I also add that absolutely everything else in the house works fine - I have tried different plugs in different rooms, to no avail. Using the same plugs that the PC doesn't work in, anything else works absolutely fine (laptop charger, monitors etc).
 
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Weathered said:
What about the power cord? When you take it to the shop, are you using the same cord you use at home or is he using his own? Have you tried a different power cord at home?
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for your reply - yes, I have tried 3 different kettle leads at home as well as the one he was using, which he let me take home to try (he's been trying to help out with the issue).

It most likely seems to be an electrical/grounding issue so maybe I'll need to get an electrician out to the property, it is just baffling how it used to work before changing the CPU cooler.
 
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lewisha said:
Thanks very much Lutfij,

My specs are as follows:

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700 (Stock non-K non-H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte H510 M H
Ram: 32GB Corsair Vengeance 2666 MHz
SSD/HDD: m.2 Intel 512gb and Samsung Evo 1TB
GPU: 1050ti Low Profile
PSU: Silverstone FX-350G Gold and also trying a 600W EVGA Bronze
Chassis: Antec Case
OS: Win10
Monitor: Benq XL2411P
for better context.
Click to expand...


Enter this and other details into the power supply calculator here:

Power Supply Calculator - PSU Calculator | OuterVision

and see what it's recommended is.
 
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geofelt said:
Buy a outlet tester.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-T...ocphy=9011560&hvtargid=pla-571548716375&psc=1
I am guessing that the polarity or grounding is not correct.
Click to expand...
Those only say if there's voltage present or not and path of voltage. Won't test load.

Psus are auto-switching for the most part, they'll run on anything from @ 110v to 250v, so polarity or voltage isn't really a concern, other than if it's either too low or too high.

Amperage is a whole different story. If the amps aren't there to be had, the psu can't turn on. You can register 120v through a contact as fine as a baby's hair, but for amperage, that requires meat on the connection/transmission, bigger the better.

So that plug checker will only say if the socket is good, but won't say How good. If the connection in the plug itself is burned out, barely touching, it'll pass a ok signal, but psu won't budge. Same applies for any multimeter, no matter how expensive, will only check voltage ability, not amperage ability.
 
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test outlet with volt meter, check to see if there is voltage between the neutral and the ground. if yes, look for a light that is wired hot thru a switch. ie run around and turn on light and see if the voltage drops to near zero with the outlet.

or you can turn on all the light and see if your machine boots without error. then turn off light one by one and see if one runs power to neutral when powered off.
you can get I have seen 36 volts on the line in such cases. I have seen this in two houses, in both cases it was caused by a dimmer one on light switch, the other on a speed control for a blower fan for a wall exhaust. The wall plugs shared the same circuits.
 
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Neutral carries the unbalanced load back to the panel. Most times, when checking hot-neutral you see @ 120v, same as hot-ground, because they both go to the same point, the grounding bond in the service panel which ties ground/neutral together. With a load, the neutral carries what's not used, so checking the dimmer hot-neutral and getting 36v, that just means the light/fan is on and is only using 94v. If you turned the dimmer further down to almost off, you'd see that 36v raise as less voltage is allowed through the switch.

Doesn't affect anything other than the load it's tied to. If wired correctly. The plug before or after will still see 120v. No load on the plug.
 
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