blukatz

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Hi! I'm hoping someone here can help with some annoying blue screens I've been getting lately.

Basically, I'm getting various blue screens, seemingly at random (I've yet to find any connecting trends so far). I'm running Windows 10 on a self built PC that's been running fine for years. The most recent hardware change was a new GPU last year (upgraded an R9 270 to RX 580). The blue screens started about a month ago. The message varies from SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION to KERNAL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE to FAULTY_HARDWARE_CORRUPTED_PAGE. Most of these point to ntoskrnl.exe in the minidump.

When the BSODs first started, I was also getting MEMORY_MANAGEMENT and UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_TRAP, but after RMAing my RAM (which had failed a memtest check), I haven't seen them since.

I ran Driver Verifier, which has seemed to have found some problematic drivers. I received a DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION blue screen for SteamStreamingMicrophone.sys, so I uninstalled it, as I don't use Steam Streaming often. On reboot, I got another of the same BSOD, but for SteamStreamingSpeakers.sys, so I uninstalled that. Reboot again, this time dfx11_1x64.sys+519a caused the Driver Verifier blue screen. This is an audio enhancer program I've been using for years with no issue before, but for sake of argument I removed it as well. Rebooted again and this time rzendpt.sys+26e5 caused the Verifier BSOD. I have a Razer Ornata keyboard and Razer Kraken headset, but I'm not sure I want to uninstall any Razer drivers, because that's the only keyboard I have that works with my desktop (no PS2 port on my motherboard).

It's like one long chain of supposedly faulty drivers, which seems weird that it's all failing at once. Is there something else that could be causing these errors? The RAM is brand new, it's even marked that is was manufactured this month. I ran memtest for 10 passes with no error, sfc/scannow doesn't find any problems, AVG and Malwarebytes say my system is clean, nothing is overclocked and I've fully wiped and reinstalled my AMD GPU drivers.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Could be related to a driver that Windows or you updated and the system either doesn't like or isn't compatible. If you know about when this started you might look through your Windows update history to see if there were any driver or major system updates that were done at about the same time. I'm sure you might have trouble knowing EXACTLY when that might be, but Windows really doesn't update drivers often so if there is a driver update anywhere in history near the date it might at least give you a clue. You can look through the history on the same page in settings that you'd check for updates.

Another option would be that you DIDN'T update any drivers to an unliked version, but that Windows updated some OTHER part of the system that isn't playing nice with a driver that was ALREADY installed, and it may be necessary to find an updated driver from the manufacturer. Usually if this happens, it happens to more than one person. I'd check and update, and maybe just RE-install regardless of whether there are updates or not, the drivers for all of your hardware.

Go to your motherboard product page and download all of the latest drivers for the chipset, audio controller, network adapters (Wireless and LAN, if both are applicable), storage controllers and anything else. Might also be a good idea to check and see if there is a newer motherboard BIOS version available. Often, older BIOS versions may not play nice with some of the newer drivers releases from other manufacturers. May have already been addressed in a BIOS update.

Then go to the manufacturer websites for all of your peripheral hardware, keyboard, mouse, etc., even printer, and check for updates or reinstall those latest versions even if you already know they are up to date. Sometimes a driver becomes corrupted or gets borked for no apparent reason, or as I said, Windows thinks it knows what it's doing and changes it on it's own, making a mess in the meantime.

Since your memory is ok, and there seems to be no malware or malicious software at play, I'd guess this is most probably a driver related issue.

You MIGHT however want to also look at the possibility that you have a problem with your power supply or motherboard. Since you mention the Razer keyboard I'm assuming it's not a laptop. Can you list your full system hardware specifications including CPU model, motherboard model, power supply (EXACT model number), memory part or kit model and graphics card model as well as ALL connected storage devices and peripheral hardware?
 

blukatz

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I'll try looking through the Event Viewer logs to see if I can find the earliest incidents of blue screens. Could at least help narrow down approximately when to look in the update history.

Yeah, this is a desktop I built myself about 8 years ago. Here's my hardware:
  • CPU: Ryzen 1500X (installed at the beginning of 2018)
  • Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaw V Series 8GB (2x4GB) 3200Mhz DDR4 (RMA'd last week, original set failed memtest, current set does not)
  • GPU: Asus Strix RX 580 8GB
  • PSU: OCZ ZS Series 650W 80 Plus Bronze (admittedly, this is over 8 years old now)
  • SSD: Samsung 860 Evo 500GB - Windows 10 installed to this drive
  • HDD: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200rpm
  • Keyboard: Razer Ornata Chroma
  • Mouse: CM Storm Recon
  • Headset: Razer Kraken V2 7.1ch USB
  • Wifi: Netgear A6210 AC1200 USB adapter
Nothing is overclocked, never has been, the only setting in BIOS that has been modified is RAM speed and timings (to match the manufacturer's recommendation, which I used the DOCP Profile mode which automatically detects the intended RAM settings. Before sending my RAM for RMA, I updated my motherboard's UEFI BIOS to the most recent version, as well as update the chipset drivers. Would it be worth updating them again after having my RAM replaced?

Some quick skimming through some of the event logs prior to my memory replacement, I forgot to mention that I used to have Asus AI Suite installed, which was causing crashes and blue screens at the time. At this point now, I have logs claiming the Asus software, Razer software, Steam software, and audio enhancement software have been the causes of crashes. You know, it's may or may not be relevant, but every one of those programs/drivers has something to do with audio. The DFX program helps with balancing fidelity and volume, the Steam drivers were for the microphone and virtual speakers used in the In-Home Streaming service, and both the Razer and Asus software included features that enhanced directional audio so you could tell what direction sounds came from in games. The Asus, DFX, and Steam drivers are uninstalled currently and I still got another blue screen last night, but I think I'll check all my audio drivers as well. I got my headset for Christmas, so the time frame for that versus when the blue screens began isn't far apart.

Thanks for your help so far!
 
My advice would be, replace the PSU before you go any further. Sounds like you have a random intermittent failure or random intermittent high voltage fluctuation problem that might be triggering a driver error (Yes, lack of power to hardware can do that) or triggering protection (If there have been any shut downs as well, but only applies regarding the protection not the potential for low power or out of spec voltage triggering driver errors).

Basically, ANY problem that PC or computing device can have, can be replicated/mimicked by a faulty power supply since everything relies on the power supply. Motherboard, memory, graphics card, storage devices, other hardware can ALL show signs of fault if they are not getting adequate, clean power. At 8 years old, I'd say there's a very good chance that unit is showing signs of fatigue. Might not even have been a memory problem, could have been lack of power delivery to the memory unless you also tested those sticks in another machine and they failed Memtest there as well.

Plus, that is an older group regulated design rather than a modern DC-DC platform. You could definitely be seeing symptoms of crossloading or other issues although that usually results in a shut down not a blue screen, but who knows. Modern systems use the 12v rails a lot more than older platforms, so using a group regulated power supply is not recommended on anything Haswell era or newer for Intel platforms or for Ryzen platforms, in general and aside from any specific problems like those that have been noted with the Haswell and newer C states.

Click the spoiler for model recommendations in the event you decide to replace the power supply.


Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 

blukatz

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Ok, well on that note I found a good deal on Newegg for a Corsair RM550x Gold. It's listed as good in the post in your spoiler, and Tomshardware's review is pretty glowing and it has a 10 year warranty, so I might pull the trigger on that.

As far as drivers go, I did find that Windows put in a bunch of outdated chipset drivers, the SMBus, GPIO, System, and Security Device drivers were all dated for 2016/2017, so I downloaded and installed the latest chipset drivers from the Asus driver page, as well as my LAN and Realtek audio drivers. Either way, I'll still consider the PSU upgrade due to the age of my current one.
 
That is a good unit. Good deal on finding the drivers issue. Hopefully that was the main problem but I'd still probably replace the PSU even if it isn't. An old unit that that is likely degraded and filtering is not what it once was which can mean that it's feeding higher levels of ripple and noise to the motherboard and graphics card capacitors as well as potentially being out of spec on voltage fluctuation. All these things, even in low doses, can accumulatively resulty in death by inches for your hardware.
 

blukatz

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Hmm. Got two new blue screens, one when I shut down last night and a another today while watching a video on YouTube on Chrome.

The one last night happened as a clicked on shut down, which triggered a reboot instead. The message I got was Kernal_Security_Check_Failure. Today I got Attempted_Execute_Of_Noexecute_Memory, with faults ntoskrnl.exe and wdf01000.sys.

I ran Driver Verifier again and it crashed during boot, faulting ntoskrnl.exe, wdf01000.sys, and netr28ux.sys, which is my wireless adapter driver. I uninstalled and reinstalled the latest drivers for that, though I already had them.

Geez this is annoying.... I really hope it's just a faulty PSU, haha
 
You need to quit using Driver verifier, and uninstall it. Nothing but junk, as are ALL driver utilities aside from the Display driver uninstaller by Wagnard tools. That is the ONLY driver utility of any kind that ought to be installed on anybody's system, and only when needed even then. ALL drivers should be manually installed based on what is available from the product page for THAT particular piece of hardware or for any of the sub systems on a motherboard such as chipset, audio, network adapters and storage controllers, from the motherboard product page. Other utilities simply create issues or make existing issues worse. Up to you though. I can't help if you continue to use that. Might even have already caused irreversible corruption.

I'd uninstall it, and go download the CORRECT and most recent drivers based on your hardware, FROM the manufacturer of that hardware. Also, you might want to turn OFF automatic driver updating in Windows, as follows.

 

blukatz

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Oh, yeah disabling driver updates would be good, since I've already found Windows doesn't always pick the best ones. Will definitely do that!

As for Driver Verifier, it's not a program I installed, it's used via command prompt directly from the OS. Since it's built into the OS, I can't get rid of it. It's specifically designed by Microsoft for the purpose of testing signed drivers, so I would hope it's not causing damage to my system. I've been using it because Microsoft's support page suggests using it in their Knowledge Base articles.
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/devtest/driver-verifier

At this point, I have gone through my entire Device Manager and triple checked that every driver I have installed is the most recent one. In each case, I completely uninstalled the old driver before installing the new one. So far, I haven't had any more crashes since the one this morning, so knock on wood hopefully I don't get any more.
 
My bad. I was thinking of a different 3rd party utility. Apologies for that.

As for driver verifier itself, it can be enabled and disabled, but there's no reason to do so unless IT causes issues.


Hopefully the updates did the trick.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
glad you corrected DB, I was about to point out DV is part of windows itself.

as a precaution, in case its not the PSU, Can you follow option one on the following link - here and then do this step below: Small memory dumps - Have Windows Create a Small Memory Dump (Minidump) on BSOD

that creates a file in c windows/minidump after the next BSOD
copy that file to documents
upload the copy from documents to a file sharing web site, and share the link here and I will get someone to convert file into a format I can read
 
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blukatz

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Hi Colif, here's a link to a Google Drive with some minidumps in it.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1K5cM5ZapoOXqOcSDbSEBa1d7dZxG8I42?usp=sharing

I have since replaced the PSU, however I have gotten a handful of BSODs even afterwards, though so far they have not been anywhere as frequent as they previously were. Unfortunately, the most recent ones did not leave a minidump, even though I have it set to do so. I did catch the error on the blue screen itself, it was IRQL_Not_Less_Or_Equal, with AFD.sys being reported. The minidumps I linked are the most recent that I have. I also included a seperate folder with a couple minidumps specifically from Driver Verifier, in case those might help.

I actually did get a new incident earlier today; I was playing Skyrim and I started to turn on the AMD overlay, which shows things like fps, clock speeds, temp, fan speeds, etc, and my screen flashed green, my headset (plugged in to the front audio port) started making buzzing static noises, then the signal was lost on my screen. I waited about a minute with no change, no audio, no video, so I power off the computer, waited another minutes, then tried booting it. On boot, it powered up, the DRAM light flashed orange, then it powered down. It repeated this a few times, then the red CPU light came on, then powered down again. After this it booted up normally (though it did have me go to BIOS to check settings). I have an ASUS motherboard which has a QLED indicator; white for VGA, orange for DRAM, and red for CPU. I'm concerned about the orange lights blinking because that implies I'm still having RAM issues despite just RMAing a new set. Anyways- thanks for your help on this!
 
If you had RAM problems before, and RAM problems now, after replacing the memory, and there are not bent pins on the CPU or motherboard (Which you SHOULD check for) then it's almost GOT to be the motherboard. Memory itself, CPU and motherboard, so long as there is clean and stable power, are about all that can cause actual memory problems.

What exactly has indicated to you that you ARE having memory problems? Have you run Memtest86 since replacing the memory, at the default JEDEC settings, to see if there is an actual issue OUTSIDE of the Windows environment?

Have you tried running an Ubuntu bootable USB environment to see if you have any problems there, which if not might indicate that the problem actually IS with Windows itself?
 

gardenman

Splendid
Moderator
Hi, I put all of the dumps together. If driver verifier caused the crash (and that is what it suppose to do) then the error/bugcheck usually has the word "VERIFIER" in it. Results: https://pste.eu/p/J4ud.html

File information:031719-6500-01.dmp (Mar 18 2019 - 00:43:48)
Bugcheck:SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (3B)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: DFX.exe)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 21 Min(s), and 28 Sec(s)

File information:031719-5031-01.dmp (Mar 18 2019 - 01:41:06)
Bugcheck:DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION (C4)
Driver warnings:*** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for rzendpt.sys
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: System)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 00 Min(s), and 16 Sec(s)

File information:031719-5000-01.dmp (Mar 18 2019 - 01:05:48)
Bugcheck:DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION (C4)
Driver warnings:*** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for dfx11_1x64.sys
Probably caused by:dfx11_1x64.sys (Process: System)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 00 Min(s), and 09 Sec(s)

File information:031719-4984-01.dmp (Mar 18 2019 - 01:37:53)
Bugcheck:DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION (C4)
Driver warnings:*** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for dfx11_1x64.sys
Probably caused by:dfx11_1x64.sys (Process: System)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 00 Min(s), and 13 Sec(s)

File information:031719-4968-01.dmp (Mar 18 2019 - 01:00:58)
Bugcheck:DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION (C4)
Driver warnings:*** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for SteamStreamingSpeakers.sys
Probably caused by:SteamStreamingSpeakers.sys (Process: System)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 00 Min(s), and 15 Sec(s)

File information:031719-21750-01.dmp (Mar 17 2019 - 21:36:56)
Bugcheck:KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE (139)
Probably caused by:ntkrnlmp.exe (Process: svchost.exe)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 02 Min(s), and 07 Sec(s)

File information:031719-20718-01.dmp (Mar 17 2019 - 21:32:25)
Bugcheck:FAULTY_HARDWARE_CORRUPTED_PAGE (12B)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: MemCompression)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 6 Hour(s), 41 Min(s), and 30 Sec(s)

This information may help others help you. I can't help you with this. Someone else will post with more information soon. Please wait for more answers. Good luck.
 
You wrote, you set memory with "the DOCP Profile mode which automatically detects the intended RAM settings"

I don't believe you can run 3200MHz with a non-overclocked Ryzen 5 1500X. I would try DDR4-2666MHz.

Ryzen 2000 Series processors featured an improved memory contoller over the preceding 1000 Series models such as the Ryzen 5 1500X. This allowed the next higher memory clock speed to be supported.
 

blukatz

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At this point, the IRQL BSOD and the orange error light on my motherboard are the only things that suggest more memory issues. I'll try another Memtest on a bootable USB to see if it shows anything. How would I test with Ubuntu to see if it's a Windows issue? I'm not particularly familiar with Linux, but I'm willing to try it.

Thanks Gardenman! That will hopefully give a little more info on what's going on.

Edit: @Calvin7 - At this point, couldn't hurt to try. For what it's worth though, this setup WAS working okay for about a year prior to the issues, and my specific RAM is on the QVL for my motherboard, even back when I purchased both parts, which was before the 2000 series was released.
 
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blukatz

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Alright, so I the BSODs are back in full force. Today I received a KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED, SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION, and MEMORY_MANAGEMENT errors. I uploaded those to my Google Drive in case they help. After every one of these BSODs, when Windows booted back in, it automatically initiated a scan and repair of my C Drive, though it only took about 10 seconds before loading Windows, so I'm not sure what it was actually doing, if anything at all.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1K5cM5ZapoOXqOcSDbSEBa1d7dZxG8I42

I have also noticed that the RGB LEDs for my ASUS Aura motherboard are off. I tried launching the software, but it kept crashing. Unsure if this is related, but it does suggest something is wrong with my motherboard.

I installed a copy of Ubuntu 18.04 AMD64 on a 32GB USB3.0 drive. I was able to boot into Ubuntu with no issues, though I had to use an older Wifi adapter because my Netgear wasn't being recognized. Anyways, I looked into installing Checkbox-qt to test my hardware but I couldn't seem to get it to work. The installer bar would blink, the bar would rapidly fill to 50% then go blank like nothing happened. I tried a few other mirror downloads (I was on packages.ubuntu.com) but none would work. I went into the default programs list to see if anything useful was in preinstalled, and then Ubuntu hard crashed. No mouse or keyboard inputs worked, so I tried Alt-SysRq-RESIUB, but that didn't work either so I had to hard reset. My first thought is this could still be motherboard related- since I'm running off of a USB.

Edit- And I just discovered that Windows shows the time as 7 hours later than it actually is. It's almost 1:30 where I'm at, but the clock reads after 8PM (minutes are correct, hours are wrong). I booted into Ubuntu and it shows the same erroneous time.
 
So, first I'd get and install a new CMOS battery. That's the usual culprit when time is wrong, but check the BIOS first and if it's off set it to the correct time. If it doesn't hold, replace the battery. If that doesn't fix the issue, look for a setting called HPET (High precision even timer) in the BIOS and make sure it is enabled. IF it's not, enable it and try again. If it is, and the rest didn't help, and the time continues to be off along with your motherboard LEDs not working correctly, then pursuing an RMA on the motherboard would be my advice.
 
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Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
Driver verifer blames razer drivers and the drivers for Power Technology's DFX Audio Enhancer

Ram errors can be totally random as well so I don't know if to blame the drivers for this one. If you getting errors in linux and Windows, it is highly likely to be hardware
 

gardenman

Splendid
Moderator
I ran the 3 new dump files through the debugger and got the following information: https://pste.eu/p/mHrR.html

File information:032919-6171-01.dmp (Mar 29 2019 - 05:04:23)
Bugcheck:KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (1E)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: System)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 1 Hour(s), 22 Min(s), and 01 Sec(s)

File information:032919-20312-01.dmp (Mar 29 2019 - 15:01:45)
Bugcheck:SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (3B)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: AVGSvc.exe)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 09 Min(s), and 53 Sec(s)

File information:032919-20265-01.dmp (Mar 29 2019 - 22:53:05)
Bugcheck:MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (1A)
Driver warnings:*** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for avgSnx.sys
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: svchost.exe)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 01 Min(s), and 02 Sec(s)

The last 2 crashes were possibly caused by AVG (avgSnx.sys).