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Hootla1

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Hardware:

Motherboard: X670 AORUS Elite AX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X

GPU: AMD Radeon 6800

RAM: 32GB DDR5 2400Mhz

I get crazy stuttering when playing new games even when I play in 1080p with gaphics on medium.

This was noticed most recently on Black Ops 6, it was unplayable.

I recently updated my Radeon drivers for this in preparation and it's really bad.

I can play Counter Strike & Rocket League and it is okay but when I was playing God of War Ragnarok I could only play for 1-2 hours before it started stuttering.

Black Ops 6 was instant, my GPU temp was around 60-70C.

Some gameplay

I am not sure what it causing this stuttering but I'd be so grateful if someone could help me out.
 
Solution
Not Overclocking

Idle: GPU 55C, CPU 45C

50%

I think it might be my motherboard failing;

To boot my PC it can sometime take 5-10mins to get past the AORUS boot screen and into Windows screen, especially if I restart.

3 of my 7 fans aren't spinning.

I can't listen to audio without is skipping/stuttering every 10 seconds

Earlier in the year I had a really bad online stutter that was only resolved once I changed from various ethernet cables to a wireless dongle (Maybe the ethernet port in mobo was failing)
Your motherboard isn't old enough to be "failing", so unless it was simply faulty out of the box, which is very possible, I wouldn't think it likely. A bad motherboard is a different thing than a "failing" motherboard...
If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

Make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.



And last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates, it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
 
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Hootla1

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Are you overclocking anything (GPU, CPU, memory)?

What are your operating temperatures (CPU and GPU) at idle and under load?

What is the make/model of your PSU?

How full is your primary storage device?
Not Overclocking

Idle: GPU 55C, CPU 45C

50%

I think it might be my motherboard failing;

To boot my PC it can sometime take 5-10mins to get past the AORUS boot screen and into Windows screen, especially if I restart.

3 of my 7 fans aren't spinning.

I can't listen to audio without is skipping/stuttering every 10 seconds

Earlier in the year I had a really bad online stutter that was only resolved once I changed from various ethernet cables to a wireless dongle (Maybe the ethernet port in mobo was failing)
 

COLGeek

Cybernaut
Moderator
Not Overclocking

Idle: GPU 55C, CPU 45C

50%

I think it might be my motherboard failing;

To boot my PC it can sometime take 5-10mins to get past the AORUS boot screen and into Windows screen, especially if I restart.

3 of my 7 fans aren't spinning.

I can't listen to audio without is skipping/stuttering every 10 seconds

Earlier in the year I had a really bad online stutter that was only resolved once I changed from various ethernet cables to a wireless dongle (Maybe the ethernet port in mobo was failing)
You didn't mention the make/model of your power supply. Details matter.

Consider this, try booting from a Live Linux distro via a USB drive. This will not install anything, but will give some clues whether you have a hardware or software (Windows) issue.
 
Two thoughts:

1) Stuttering is the temporary loss of a critical resource. Usually cpu, but it could be ram.
Or, interference by a higher priority app such as monitors, discord and such.

2) Failure after a time smacks of a heat issue.
If your cpu is throttling, you will get stutters as the cpu is downclocked momentarily.
 
Not Overclocking

Idle: GPU 55C, CPU 45C

50%

I think it might be my motherboard failing;

To boot my PC it can sometime take 5-10mins to get past the AORUS boot screen and into Windows screen, especially if I restart.

3 of my 7 fans aren't spinning.

I can't listen to audio without is skipping/stuttering every 10 seconds

Earlier in the year I had a really bad online stutter that was only resolved once I changed from various ethernet cables to a wireless dongle (Maybe the ethernet port in mobo was failing)
Your motherboard isn't old enough to be "failing", so unless it was simply faulty out of the box, which is very possible, I wouldn't think it likely. A bad motherboard is a different thing than a "failing" motherboard, which is generally due to capacitor fatigue although there are many ways in which a board can fail.

Did you address ANY of the things, and hopefully ALL of them, that I suggested? What is your current BIOS version AND what is the EXACT model of your power supply? I cannot overstate the importance of this information, just as the COLGeek asked already.

Also, when you built this system, did you do a CLEAN install of Windows or are you running a Windows installation that already existed from a previous built? Did you go to the motherboard product page, download the latest chipset, audio, network adapter and bluetooth drivers, and install them?
 
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Solution

Hootla1

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Your motherboard isn't old enough to be "failing", so unless it was simply faulty out of the box, which is very possible, I wouldn't think it likely. A bad motherboard is a different thing than a "failing" motherboard, which is generally due to capacitor fatigue although there are many ways in which a board can fail.

Did you address ANY of the things, and hopefully ALL of them, that I suggested? What is your current BIOS version AND what is the EXACT model of your power supply? I cannot overstate the importance of this information, just as the COLGeek asked already.

Also, when you built this system, did you do a CLEAN install of Windows or are you running a Windows installation that already existed from a previous built? Did you go to the motherboard product page, download the latest chipset, audio, network adapter and bluetooth drivers, and install them?
I have an EVGA Gold 850 PSU.

I have just updated every chipset, storage, network driver etc. including updated my BIOS (Which took around 2hrs) which was 2 years out of date.

My PC is even worse. The entire thing freezes/stutters constantly, even scrolling down to reply to this comment. If I try and watch and video the freezing is ramped up severely, I won't even attempt to launch a game.

It now takes 10-15mins to boot up after the AORUS screen.

I can't tell you the exact version of my BIOS as to get back on to the BIOS is about an hour round trip but it was came out this month and is the most recent one.

It was booted on a clean install of windows

I suppose the only remaining thing to try is the BIOS hard reset although I am skeptical as it is very much unfamiliar ground. I will try it now.

*Edit* I have completed the reset but it has not improved anything.

Thanks to Geofelt I can tell you I am using version F31 08/14/24 for my BIOS.
 
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Hootla1

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Two thoughts:

1) Stuttering is the temporary loss of a critical resource. Usually cpu, but it could be ram.
Or, interference by a higher priority app such as monitors, discord and such.

2) Failure after a time smacks of a heat issue.
If your cpu is throttling, you will get stutters as the cpu is downclocked momentarily.
As the BIOS hard reset & updates didn't work this is sounding highly likely.

Would these affect start up times? As I am recently sitting on the boot screen for 10 mins or so.

I am guessing you'd recommend trying to get a different CPU or RAM to see if that improves things.

I'm leaning away from higher priority apps as I basically now have nothing running.
 
I have an EVGA Gold 850 PSU.
If you are going to post, post DETAILS, not generalizations. Because that's what that is. "EVGA Gold 850" literally means NOTHING, at all. EVGA has MANY "Gold" power supplies, that are complete fracking junk. And many that are really good, although, the ones that are good are mostly older models. Since slinking away from Super Flower, CWT and Seasonic, as builders of their units, and mostly Super Flower, they haven't had much lately EXCEPT the G6 and G7 series, that has been ANY good AT ALL. So, if you're going to post something related and specific to the PSU model, it would be REALLY prudent to POST the PSU model, because, even within the same series, some models are trash while others are ok or good. Let's be clear, not ambiguous.

Sorry, bad day, didn't mean to get "on" you, and actually thought that was somebody else chiming in. Let me rephrase. PLEASE, give us the ACTUAL model, because it makes a world of difference sometimes. There are MANY times when the 650w version is fine, or the 750w version is fine, but the 850w or the 650w, or the 550w, is not. So it REALLY matters. And if we can eliminate that as a PROBABLE cause, we can move on. And if we cannot, then you can feel better about trying to address a bad model of PSU.
 

Hootla1

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If you are going to post, post DETAILS, not generalizations. Because that's what that is. "EVGA Gold 850" literally means NOTHING, at all. EVGA has MANY "Gold" power supplies, that are complete fracking junk. And many that are really good, although, the ones that are good are mostly older models. Since slinking away from Super Flower, CWT and Seasonic, as builders of their units, and mostly Super Flower, they haven't had much lately EXCEPT the G6 and G7 series, that has been ANY good AT ALL. So, if you're going to post something related and specific to the PSU model, it would be REALLY prudent to POST the PSU model, because, even within the same series, some models are trash while others are ok or good. Let's be clear, not ambiguous.

Sorry, bad day, didn't mean to get "on" you, and actually thought that was somebody else chiming in. Let me rephrase. PLEASE, give us the ACTUAL model, because it makes a world of difference sometimes. There are MANY times when the 650w version is fine, or the 750w version is fine, but the 850w or the 650w, or the 550w, is not. So it REALLY matters. And if we can eliminate that as a PROBABLE cause, we can move on. And if we cannot, then you can feel better about trying to address a bad model of PSU.
Man why are you so angry? You don’t have to help me

EVGA Supernova 850 G6 Power Supply, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, Includes Power on Self Tester​

 
Yeah, that is a fine PSU. Not that there can't still be an issue with it, but in general, it's a good unit.

If it's taking that long, I would say next, remove or disconnect ALL storage devices, then power on and see if it acts the same. In fact, using the steps listed at the following link should get you where you need to go.

 

Hootla1

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Yeah, that is a fine PSU. Not that there can't still be an issue with it, but in general, it's a good unit.

If it's taking that long, I would say next, remove or disconnect ALL storage devices, then power on and see if it acts the same. In fact, using the steps listed at the following link should get you where you need to go.

Ok I will try this when I get home, I assume with all Harddrives/SSDs disconnected I will still be able to access the BIOS - hopefully with an improvement of speed indicating that the storage devices might be the issue.

Couple things to mention - When I was on last night I was monitoring hardware on resource monitor and noticed my SSD (Main C drive) would go from 1% -22% usage even just idle on desktop.

Also I don’t know if you see in another comment but 3 of my 7 fans aren’t working even though they are connected.
 
Yeah, it's sounding more and more like a bad board, but also other faulty hardware can make it seem that way sometimes as well. I'd really recommend pulling the board out of the case and working it on a counter or bench top as outlined in my guide. As far as the fans go, you might want to verify if they are three or four pin fans and then in the BIOS make sure that each specific fan header is assigned to the correct type of output, whether 3 pin DC controlled or 4 pin PWM. Sometimes updating the BIOS can change those settings so even if they worked correctly before it could be relevant. Of course, if they were already not working prior to updating the BIOS or if they never worked, then that's a different issue. Also, might want to try each of those fans on one of the fan headers that are working just to be sure it's not a fan issue, although it's unlikely to have three fans all not working at the same time.
 

Hootla1

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Yeah, that is a fine PSU. Not that there can't still be an issue with it, but in general, it's a good unit.

If it's taking that long, I would say next, remove or disconnect ALL storage devices, then power on and see if it acts the same. In fact, using the steps listed at the following link should get you where you need to go.

No luck with removing the storage devices.

Another thing to note is it now takes 20 seconds between pushing my power button and my keyboard/monitor lighting up whereas it’s used to be maybe 5 seconds.

Does this also lean towards a problem with the motherboard?
 

Mugsy

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Hardware:

Motherboard: X670 AORUS Elite AX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X

GPU: AMD Radeon 6800

RAM: 32GB DDR5 2400Mhz

I get crazy stuttering when playing new games even when I play in 1080p with gaphics on medium.

This was noticed most recently on Black Ops 6, it was unplayable.

I recently updated my Radeon drivers for this in preparation and it's really bad.

I can play Counter Strike & Rocket League and it is okay but when I was playing God of War Ragnarok I could only play for 1-2 hours before it started stuttering.

Black Ops 6 was instant, my GPU temp was around 60-70C.

Some gameplay

I am not sure what it causing this stuttering but I'd be so grateful if someone could help me out.

If the game offers it, try checking the box for "vSync".
 
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If the game offers it, try checking the box for "vSync".
The problem isn't a "game". Clearly. So, appreciate it, but not really helpful. I won't be snarky, but, details DO matter.

I'm going with board. I think you've explained enough that could, on a very slim detail, be something else, but honestly, this very much outlines itself as a board issue at this point. If I'm wrong, I'll be extremely surprised.
 

Hootla1

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The problem isn't a "game". Clearly. So, appreciate it, but not really helpful. I won't be snarky, but, details DO matter.

I'm going with board. I think you've explained enough that could, on a very slim detail, be something else, but honestly, this very much outlines itself as a board issue at this point. If I'm wrong, I'll be extremely surprised.
Any ideas what might cause this Darkbreeze? -

I just booted the PC for the first time today and the boot time was like the old days, within 10-15secs of pressing the power button I was on the windows screen, everything was instant, there was no freezing/stuttering/lagging at all and I even booted up Black Ops 6 and it ran perfectly smooth at 144fps no problem.

I thought this is too good to be true so I restarted the PC and straight away was back to 10 minute boot time and freezing even idle.

Any ideas why first time boot is perfect but a restart brings all the problems back?
 
Have you in fact removed the board from the case, and made any attempt to boot it with absolute minimal connected hardware?

I mean, at this point just on principal I'm leaning way towards it being the board but really you want to eliminate everything else first. But, should be under warranty. Might just want to go that way first but it would suck to send it in only to find out it's something else.
 
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