Question How to fix no boot and no video on a PC? I have tried many solutions and none of them have worked. Please read the description for alot of more info.

[rodrix]

TLDR: No Beep and No Video, most possible faulty parts are CPU, RAM, MOBO, PSU. Issue appeared after rearranging SSD and HDD SATA connectors, and reseating GPU.

Please read full description for entire story and details. Thank you very much.

I recently got an Acer Veriton M4620G, and a GTX 950, both seperately. I had an SSD laying around as well and decided to combine all these parts to create a decent gaming pc, for my usage it was enough. This PC worked flawlessly even through rough transportation and never had an issue, not even ONCE throughout the upgrade process. Not when I was swapping drives and installing windows, not when I added graphics card and downloaded drivers for everything and not when I would play for hours everyday and turn it on and off atleast 2 times a day.

Now I've been waiting for December break to upgrade it even further and get to enjoy more time with it. So on the first day I decided to upgrade it with more storage. 240 GB SSD was already in, so I added in a 500 GB HDD, in order to do this I had to take out the GPU to create space for me to work with the SATA cables. I took GPU out, HDD in, configured the HDD in windows while my CPU's integrated GPU handled video output into windows, and then I shut it off, reseated the GPU, and this is where the problems begin.

I pressed the power button, and as usual I expected the fans to make some noise, the hard drive to spin up, and the helpful SINGLE beep from the mobo speaker to tell me that everything in life is good. But that's not what happened. The cpu fan spun up for half a second, halted, then went full speed, which never happened before. And then, silence, no post successful beep.

When the beep is supposed to happen, it doesn't, and then all fans in the PC will be running at a relatively high speed, including the HDD disk. There will be no video or post or any signs of functionality for hours. I haven't tried running it in this strange zombie state for more than around a couple of hours, but in the end it only achieved to make my room hotter, there was no progress made. Also leaving it off and unplugged for overnight and then trying to turn it on gets me nowhere too.

I am not a complete newbie with PCs, so I did what I thought could help, and with some research I was able to isolate the following. (I may be wrong with these assumptions but it just doesn't seem likely that the following parts are causing the issues, from my case and from what I see others experiencing online)

Storage is OK
GPU is OK
CMOS battery ( I tried multiple different) is OK
CMOS Jumper was used multiple times, it is OK

This leaves the RAM, Mobo, CPU and PSU.

First off, It seems unlikely that the RAM just out of nowhere stopped working, especially since it was not malfunctioning prior to, or when the issue appeared. I was able to run this PC before with one of the two sticks, I tried both individually to make sure they work. But I have no way to check now that the issue is present, wether or not RAM is OK.

The motherboard COULD be bad, but I have no way of isolating it because I lack a spare set of PC parts or a different PC altogether to test the mobo with.

CPU could be dead, but like the RAM, it and the pins on the socket are in perfect condition, the thermal paste is properly applied aswell, and it was untouched prior to and during the appearance of the issue. I ordered a new cpu minutes before the issue arose so hopefully when that arrives I'll try to isolate CPU as an OK part.

Last but not least the PSU. I'm thinking the PSU isn't really the issue here, because it powers the fans (thru mobo pins), GPU, and HDD perfectly fine even when there is no post beep and no video. I can't be 100% sure however because I do not have another PC or set of parts to test it with.

Of these possible parts I can only really isolate the CPU when the new one arrives, but until then what can I do to fix this issue? I've waited so long for all this to be together and cleared my schedule to have some fun in my break, and now on the first day, for no reason, it just stops.

Literally any help is appreciated and I will respond as best as I can to any replies and will follow all suggestions. If there are any details or specifications you would like to have my provide I absolutely will. Thank you very much.

SPECS:
i3 2130
Ordered CPU: Xeon E3-1220 v2 ($10)
Zotac AMP GTX 950
B75H2-AM
8gb DDR3 1333
240 gb HP M700 SSD, 500gb Seagate Barracuda

 

[Darkbreeze]

So the only thing you changed was the HDD. So, have you tried REMOVING the HDD you added? 500GB hard drives are mostly going to be older drives. so was this a new HDD or a used one? I'd pull the HDD and see if that resolves the problem.

Also, I'm assuming after you reinstalled the graphics card that you ALSO moved the display cable back to the graphics card and that if your card model requires any auxiliary power from the PSU you reconnected that cable as well?

First thing to do would be remove the HDD you added, since that is the only thing that has changed. Second thing would be to TRIPLE check EVERY SINGLE ITEM listed here:

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[rodrix]

So the only thing you changed was the HDD. So, have you tried REMOVING the HDD you added? 500GB hard drives are mostly going to be older drives. so was this a new HDD or a used one? I'd pull the HDD and see if that resolves the problem.

Also, I'm assuming after you reinstalled the graphics card that you ALSO moved the display cable back to the graphics card and that if your card model requires any auxiliary power from the PSU you reconnected that cable as well?

First thing to do would be remove the HDD you added, since that is the only thing that has changed. Second thing would be to TRIPLE check EVERY SINGLE ITEM listed here:

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

Yes I've tried all storage configurations to try and post, no storage, only SSD, and SSD and HDD. HDD was old/used but confirmed working, I had windows 7 on it before.

Yes, when I switched to integrated GPU I moved DVI cable to MOBO I/O, and then back to GPU DVI port when I reinstalled it. I also reconnected the necessary 6 pin connector when GPU was put back in.

I've tested everything multiple times, the only things I haven't tested multiple times are the things I cannot test at all (CPU, MOBO, PSU and RAM, Although each stick of RAM was confirmed working prior to issue, changing ram config does not effect outcome now)

Edits: clarified HDD was used before, Confirmed GPU power connector was connected during reinstallation.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Since it seems you got these parts used, I would say we need to wait until you get the other CPU and try it before going any further. While it's totally possible that with two CPUs of this age there could in fact be two bad CPUs, the chances are not terrific of that happening because CPUs don't usually just "go bad" unless they've been greatly overclocked for a long time or abused in some other manner. As far as motherboard, there is no way to really test that, you simply have to eliminate everything else until there is nothing else left.

The fact that your PSU powers some things up means literally nothing, at all. So get that kind of thinking right out of your head. Faulty PSU can be anything from only 3v rail (Or 5v. Or 12v rail) not working, to all rails work but intermittently fail, to just overheats because fans or caps are failing, to seems to work because everything comes on but system won't POST, to nothing works at all, and anything in between. In fact, EVERY SINGLE THING that can be wrong with a system can be due to or imitated by the PSU since every single thing relies on it. So don't ever think just because some fans or lights come on that it means a PSU is good. It does not. You can TEST the PSU, but even that is no guarantee without an acceptable load being present.

What is the ACTUAL and EXACT model of the PSU and approximately how old is it, if you have any idea?

 

[rodrix]

Since it seems you got these parts used, I would say we need to wait until you get the other CPU and try it before going any further. While it's totally possible that with two CPUs of this age there could in fact be two bad CPUs, the chances are not terrific of that happening because CPUs don't usually just "go bad" unless they've been greatly overclocked for a long time or abused in some other manner. As far as motherboard, there is no way to really test that, you simply have to eliminate everything else until there is nothing else left.

Yeah I kinda thought that would be the case. But what I do know is that the cpu that is arriving is in working condition, so it would be pretty crazy if they both ended up being bad, but for that I'd still need to verify PSU and RAM right? Is there anyway I can test those two now with what I have or can get ahold of quickly?

(and if I understand correctly, the mobo cannot be blamed immediately since the rest need to be verified first for us to confirm that the mobo is bad?)

and thank you for your quick response on the thread and advice

 

[rodrix]

Since it seems you got these parts used, I would say we need to wait until you get the other CPU and try it before going any further. While it's totally possible that with two CPUs of this age there could in fact be two bad CPUs, the chances are not terrific of that happening because CPUs don't usually just "go bad" unless they've been greatly overclocked for a long time or abused in some other manner. As far as motherboard, there is no way to really test that, you simply have to eliminate everything else until there is nothing else left.

The fact that your PSU powers some things up means literally nothing, at all. So get that kind of thinking right out of your head. Faulty PSU can be anything from only 3v rail (Or 5v. Or 12v rail) not working, to all rails work but intermittently fail, to just overheats because fans or caps are failing, to seems to work because everything comes on but system won't POST, to nothing works at all, and anything in between. In fact, EVERY SINGLE THING that can be wrong with a system can be due to or imitated by the PSU since every single thing relies on it. So don't ever think just because some fans or lights come on that it means a PSU is good. It does not. You can TEST the PSU, but even that is no guarantee without an acceptable load being present.

What is the ACTUAL and EXACT model of the PSU and approximately how old is it, if you have any idea?

Understood.

The PSU is not good from what I can tell

300 W
80+ Bronze rating
( 80+ sticker is not visible in picture due to it being kind of on the inside of the case near the mobo)
a decade old it seems
Model No: FSP300-60EP(1)
Link to photo of PSU's details

https://imgur.com/a/u4cea8a

View: https://imgur.com/gallery/u4cea8a

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, not a great PSU. That PSU isn't even a 300w unit, it's actually only even LISTED as 240w capable on the 12v rails, and Zotac recommends a MINIMUM of a good 300w unit for your GTX 960 AMP edition card. And being very likely, as you say, probably ten years old, that power supply is almost certainly not capable of supporting the requirements of your system. Now, I'm not saying that the PSU "IS" the problem, but I would very much not be surprised if it was and even if it isn't, it is "A" problem because it's underpowered, old and was very much lower end mediocre to begin with even though it's FSP who is an OEM (Meaning, unlike most PSU brands they actually design and manufacturer power supplies, not just under their own name but for other companies like Antec, Corsair, BeQuiet, etc., who do not manufacturer them themselves) known to make SOME good PSU platforms, because they are also known for some real turds as well. And with this kind of OEM style prebuilt system unit, you can almost be certain that this is one of them, on top of which it is LOOOOONG past it's probable expiration date. Likely that unit only ever had a one year warranty to begin with.

I'd replace that FIRST, with something that has at least half decent quality, and go from there. In order to make sure you don't buy another turd, do us both the favor of asking about any model you are considering before you buy one, and don't buy one used. Buying a used power supply is, well, might as well just go outside and light your money on fire unless you are buying it from somebody you know personally and have a great deal of trust in. And, you can use both of these links to help with finding a reasonably decent model. For a system like this, you could realistically probably get away with something 450w or higher off the Tier C list, but you'd be best trying if possible to get something that is listed on Tiers A or B, or is listed on my recommendations as probably good but by all means feel free to ask here first before pulling the trigger on anything.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

PSU Tier List rev. 17.0g - Cultists Network

PSU Tier List will help you to choose the best PSU out of hundreds of models on the market. From budget to the highest end Power Supplies.

cultists.network

There's a good chance this might be the entire problem, but even if it isn't, it's very hard to convict anything else if you don't know for CERTAIN that the PSU isn't the problem. Even testing it is pointless with it being as old as it likely is.

 

[rodrix]

Yes, not a great PSU. That PSU isn't even a 300w unit, it's actually only even LISTED as 240w capable on the 12v rails, and Zotac recommends a MINIMUM of a good 300w unit for your GTX 960 AMP edition card. And being very likely, as you say, probably ten years old, that power supply is almost certainly not capable of supporting the requirements of your system. Now, I'm not saying that the PSU "IS" the problem, but I would very much not be surprised if it was and even if it isn't, it is "A" problem because it's underpowered, old and was very much lower end mediocre to begin with even though it's FSP who is an OEM (Meaning, unlike most PSU brands they actually design and manufacturer power supplies, not just under their own name but for other companies like Antec, Corsair, BeQuiet, etc., who do not manufacturer them themselves) known to make SOME good PSU platforms, because they are also known for some real turds as well. And with this kind of OEM style prebuilt system unit, you can almost be certain that this is one of them, on top of which it is LOOOOONG past it's probable expiration date. Likely that unit only ever had a one year warranty to begin with.

I'd replace that FIRST, with something that has at least half decent quality, and go from there. In order to make sure you don't buy another turd, do us both the favor of asking about any model you are considering before you buy one, and don't buy one used. Buying a used power supply is, well, might as well just go outside and light your money on fire unless you are buying it from somebody you know personally and have a great deal of trust in. And, you can use both of these links to help with finding a reasonably decent model. For a system like this, you could realistically probably get away with something 450w or higher off the Tier C list, but you'd be best trying if possible to get something that is listed on Tiers A or B, or is listed on my recommendations as probably good but by all means feel free to ask here first before pulling the trigger on anything.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

PSU Tier List rev. 17.0g - Cultists Network

PSU Tier List will help you to choose the best PSU out of hundreds of models on the market. From budget to the highest end Power Supplies.

cultists.network

There's a good chance this might be the entire problem, but even if it isn't, it's very hard to convict anything else if you don't know for CERTAIN that the PSU isn't the problem. Even testing it is pointless with it being as old as it likely is.

Alright I'll look through some options for that, and in the meantime something interesting finally happened. Until now whenever I tried switching around ram sticks nothing would change, even if I had no ram in it at all, but today I tried and it gives a long constant beep with no ram in, I mean it makes sense, a pretty important part is missing, but why make a sound about it now and never before? The sound it makes is just a constant never ending beep tone, not repeated beeps, like Beep beep beep... But just beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee



If we assume that PSU is fine, then what would you bet is causing these issues?

 

[Darkbreeze]

That doesn't change anything really, because that's what it's supposed to do. With no CPU installed, should do that. With no memory installed, it should do that. And I honestly don't understand why people always seem to want to "change RAM sticks around" as is commonly stated?

There is NEVER any reason to do that. At all. Ever.

If it's a microATX or miniITX board with only two DIMM slots, assuming there is a problem that you THINK might be memory related, you put one stick in the A1 slot and try it. If it doesn't work you put a different stick in the A1 slot and try it. You repeat until you have no DIMMs left to try. If nothing works in the A1 slot then either it is not a memory problem or there is a problem with ALL your sticks, which is very unlikely, making it likely something else like CPU or motherboard.

If you have an ATX motherboard, which will have four DIMM slots, or a microATX motherboard that has four DIMM slots (A few of them DO), assuming there is a problem that you THINK might be memory releated, you put one stick in the A2 slot and try it. If it doesn't work you put a different stick in the A2 slot and try it. You repeat until you have no DIMMs left to try. If nothing works in the A2 slot then either it is not a memory problem or there is a problem with ALL your sticks, which again, is very unlikely, making it likely something else like CPU or motherboard is to blame. In some cases, might even be something like CPU cooler mounting hardware is not EVENLY tight all the way around which can cause it to act like it has bent pins.

In ANY case, if it is a board that has four DIMM slots you ALWAYS put them in the A2 and B2 slots which are the 2nd and 4th slots to the right of the CPU socket. That is ALWAYS the population rule if this is a four DIMM ATX or microATX motherboard using DDR 3, 4 or 5 memory. If you have to use A1 orB1 then there is a problem with the CPU or motherboard or the CPU cooler installation is not right.

 

[rodrix]

That doesn't change anything really, because that's what it's supposed to do. With no CPU installed, should do that. With no memory installed, it should do that. And I honestly don't understand why people always seem to want to "change RAM sticks around" as is commonly stated?

There is NEVER any reason to do that. At all. Ever.

If it's a microATX or miniITX board with only two DIMM slots, assuming there is a problem that you THINK might be memory related, you put one stick in the A1 slot and try it. If it doesn't work you put a different stick in the A1 slot and try it. You repeat until you have no DIMMs left to try. If nothing works in the A1 slot then either it is not a memory problem or there is a problem with ALL your sticks, which is very unlikely, making it likely something else like CPU or motherboard.

If you have an ATX motherboard, which will have four DIMM slots, or a microATX motherboard that has four DIMM slots (A few of them DO), assuming there is a problem that you THINK might be memory releated, you put one stick in the A2 slot and try it. If it doesn't work you put a different stick in the A2 slot and try it. You repeat until you have no DIMMs left to try. If nothing works in the A2 slot then either it is not a memory problem or there is a problem with ALL your sticks, which again, is very unlikely, making it likely something else like CPU or motherboard is to blame. In some cases, might even be something like CPU cooler mounting hardware is not EVENLY tight all the way around which can cause it to act like it has bent pins.

In ANY case, if it is a board that has four DIMM slots you ALWAYS put them in the A2 and B2 slots which are the 2nd and 4th slots to the right of the CPU socket. That is ALWAYS the population rule if this is a four DIMM ATX or microATX motherboard using DDR 3, 4 or 5 memory. If you have to use A1 orB1 then there is a problem with the CPU or motherboard or the CPU cooler installation is not right.

Alright that seems fair, I tried both sticks in A2 and B2 individually and both together and there was no beep, so I guess it's fair to assume that the RAM is alright, because if it wasn't then we would hear a constant beeeeeee like before, because it would act as if it wasn't there at all right?

So I guess it's down to CPU, which we'll see when it arrives and the PSU and MOBO. I think my guess would be the latter 2. Thanks for your help till now, is there anything else I can do in the meantime besides research?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, bad RAM that is installed can cause a few different reactions, but yes, if it was a constant long beep when the memory was installed, then it would almost certainly mean something was wrong with the memory. But honestly it could do that and it be the motherboard or CPU since the memory controller is IN the CPU these days and as well it could be the CPU because it would offer the same unending beep. Not really much you can do until you get the new CPU and try it, and a good PSU and try that. I'm betting it's the PSU but it could definitely be the CPU or anything when talking about used parts. Motherboard and PSU are the usual suspects when they are very old.

This might be helpful too.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

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