- May 13, 2019
- 4
- 0
- 10
--CONTEXT--
Greetings, everyone.
So, over the past five weeks I've been dealing with a corrupted ssd after I unplugged the desktop from the power socket. I was getting impatient when the computer took longer than usual to boot up. Bad move, I know. I've been learning that the hard way.
About two weeks of hopelessly trying to reinstall Windows 10 with a bootable usb on my corrupted drive have passed, and after numerous BSOD's, I decided to install it on my 1TB hard drive, and it worked! However, Windows had an update for my MOBO's BIOS, and it corrupted my Main BIOS (and caused a boot loop), so I had to short pins on the chip to force it into recovery mode. I dared not to plug back in my 1 TB hard drive again.
Fast forward to now, May 13th, and I've bought a new Sandisk SSD. I attempted to install it with my bootable usb and I noticed that the process had been at like 0% for about 10 minutes, so I cancelled the process. But, just my luck, the installation media froze after it cancelled, but when I restarted the computer (by holding down the case power button this time) I reboot it and notice that my new ssd was registered as containing 0.0 mb of storage. This happened before, while I was trying to work with my broken ssd from before, and now I fear that I've just broken it again 5 days after I just bought the thing.
--CONTEXT--
I looked up somewhere that changing the SATA controller from AHCI mode to IDE could solve the problem. I go into my BIOS and notice that an IDE option is not available to me except on the 4th and 5th ports for some reason. However, I do notice that I can switch it to RAID mode. So, without doing any research on what this actually is, yet another bad move, I switch it to that and save and exit the BIOS. The computer reboots and unbeknownst to me it goes to "check the drives", obviously fails to find any compatible drives and prompts me to press Ctrl-F to enter the RAID Rom's Utility, which thankfully does not work on my keyboard, even though it is on.
So you might suggest that I should press Delete to enter the BIOS and switch it off, which was my original solution to this problem. But guess what? Pressing those keys that appear below the MOBO's logo doesn't work! Believe me, I've spammed these buttons faster than twenty angry hornets and it just. doesn't. work.
In addition, I've tried taking out that little CMOS battery for 15 minutes. I've tried shorting the CLR_CMOS pins using a paper clip while booting the computer up, I've tried shorting the pins on the Main BIOS, though I may have a harder time with that since someone was actually shorting them with the paper clip while I turned the computer on. And besides, I don't want to risk shorting the whole MOBO since I'm not the most confident with the steadiness of my hands.
So here I am, after five weeks of going through all of this ssd nonsense, including my MOBO's annoying boot loop, and I feel like I've gotton nowhere with this. It's like I'm back at square one with this complete nightmare. After hours of google searches, youtube videos, and old forum posts, and I've gained nothing from this. I've resorted to finally opening up in this online forum because I feel this is the best course of action to take now. This issue has strayed too far from my current skill level, I have realized. So I believe that opening this whole situation up on an online forum is the best course of action to make right now.
At this point, I am very fed up with this computer. I would very much appreciate at least some sort of lead or suggestion, because at this point, I've run out of options.
Here are my computer's specs for reference:
��������������
Greetings, everyone.
So, over the past five weeks I've been dealing with a corrupted ssd after I unplugged the desktop from the power socket. I was getting impatient when the computer took longer than usual to boot up. Bad move, I know. I've been learning that the hard way.
About two weeks of hopelessly trying to reinstall Windows 10 with a bootable usb on my corrupted drive have passed, and after numerous BSOD's, I decided to install it on my 1TB hard drive, and it worked! However, Windows had an update for my MOBO's BIOS, and it corrupted my Main BIOS (and caused a boot loop), so I had to short pins on the chip to force it into recovery mode. I dared not to plug back in my 1 TB hard drive again.
Fast forward to now, May 13th, and I've bought a new Sandisk SSD. I attempted to install it with my bootable usb and I noticed that the process had been at like 0% for about 10 minutes, so I cancelled the process. But, just my luck, the installation media froze after it cancelled, but when I restarted the computer (by holding down the case power button this time) I reboot it and notice that my new ssd was registered as containing 0.0 mb of storage. This happened before, while I was trying to work with my broken ssd from before, and now I fear that I've just broken it again 5 days after I just bought the thing.
--CONTEXT--
I looked up somewhere that changing the SATA controller from AHCI mode to IDE could solve the problem. I go into my BIOS and notice that an IDE option is not available to me except on the 4th and 5th ports for some reason. However, I do notice that I can switch it to RAID mode. So, without doing any research on what this actually is, yet another bad move, I switch it to that and save and exit the BIOS. The computer reboots and unbeknownst to me it goes to "check the drives", obviously fails to find any compatible drives and prompts me to press Ctrl-F to enter the RAID Rom's Utility, which thankfully does not work on my keyboard, even though it is on.
So you might suggest that I should press Delete to enter the BIOS and switch it off, which was my original solution to this problem. But guess what? Pressing those keys that appear below the MOBO's logo doesn't work! Believe me, I've spammed these buttons faster than twenty angry hornets and it just. doesn't. work.
In addition, I've tried taking out that little CMOS battery for 15 minutes. I've tried shorting the CLR_CMOS pins using a paper clip while booting the computer up, I've tried shorting the pins on the Main BIOS, though I may have a harder time with that since someone was actually shorting them with the paper clip while I turned the computer on. And besides, I don't want to risk shorting the whole MOBO since I'm not the most confident with the steadiness of my hands.
So here I am, after five weeks of going through all of this ssd nonsense, including my MOBO's annoying boot loop, and I feel like I've gotton nowhere with this. It's like I'm back at square one with this complete nightmare. After hours of google searches, youtube videos, and old forum posts, and I've gained nothing from this. I've resorted to finally opening up in this online forum because I feel this is the best course of action to take now. This issue has strayed too far from my current skill level, I have realized. So I believe that opening this whole situation up on an online forum is the best course of action to make right now.
At this point, I am very fed up with this computer. I would very much appreciate at least some sort of lead or suggestion, because at this point, I've run out of options.
Here are my computer's specs for reference:
��������������
| Component | Selection | |
|---|---|---|
| CPU | AMD - FX-8320E 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | |
| CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.69 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | |
| Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-990FXA-UD5 R5 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | |
| Memory | Mushkin - Essentials 12 GB (3 x 4 GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | |
| Storage (My 1 TB drive mentioned earlier) | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | |
| Storage 2 (My corrupted SSD from the beginning that caused all of this) | SanDisk - Z400s 256 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | |
| Storage 3 (My new SSD, may be corrupted too) | SanDisk SDSSDA-120G-G27 SSD PLUS, 120GB | |
| Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 960 4 GB Video Card | |
| Case | Corsair - 750D ATX Full Tower Case | |
| Power Supply | CoolMax - 700 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | |
| Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | |
| Wireless Network Adapter | Belkin - F9L1001 USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | |
| Monitor | Asus - VX228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor | |
| Keyboard | Cooler Master - CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard With Optical Mouse |
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