Question Numerous issues after installing new Cpu, Motherboard, and Ram

[ImTimIsMe]

I had upgraded some major components of my pc not too long ago.

Ever since then I've been having some pretty annoying issues. Everything worked fine prior. Sometimes, when using my mouse and keyboard, primarily during games, they sometimes become unresponsive, the screen freezes for a short moment, then the Keyboard and Mouse will hold any button that was pressed before the freeze until I re-input it, and the mouse will jerk in a random direction. Also, when restarting the pc, my keyboard and/or mouse will disconnect and I have to unplug and re-plug to get them working again. (The mouse will turn on but not work, and the keyboard will shut off after being on for a moment) I have a Tourbox, which is a drawing controller plugged in via usb, and that will also have issues on occasion. It will sometimes just fully stop working and have to unplug and re-plug in to get working as well.

I have already replaced my ram with new, completely different brand sticks and gotten a replacement motherboard from Asus under warranty. I've tried updating every driver, and doing temperature tests while playing and nothing is out of the ordinary. Ive tried using different keyboards and mice, using them in different usb ports. Nothing has fixed anything

Possibly unrelated but just in case it happens to be related, while playing Overwatch, the game crashes randomly in the middle of matches. Only this game has that issue, but suffers the worst from all the other issues mentioned.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Bios- American Megatrends Inc. 3222
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
CPU Cooler- NZXT Kraken 240
GPU- Radeon RX 7800 XT
PSU- EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM, 80 Plus Gold (Idk how hold, maybe 8 years minimum)
Chassis- Hyte Y60
OS- Windows 11
Monitors- Dell S3222DGM, Dell S2721HGF
SSD/HDD- Samsung 98- Pro 2 TB M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0, Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB, Seagate Barracuda St2000DM08-2FR102 (Windows main)

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.

 

[ImTimIsMe]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.

I had to upgrade to Windows 11 from 10 during the time period. Would that count as a re-install or no

 

[ImTimIsMe]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.

After a few days of testing, I can confidently say this did not fix the issue. The issues are as persistent and occasional as they were prior

 

[Misgar]

Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36

Are you running your RAM at XMP/EXPO/DOCP 6000MT/s or at the JEDEC default of 4800MT/s?

If you're overclocking your RAM, disable DOCP (Asus BIOS) and check stability at 4800MT/s.

I recommend booting the machine from a USB flash drive containing MemTest86 and leave it running for at least one complete pass (2 to 4 hours). Repeat a full MemTest86 test scan at each RAM speed you set in the BIOS, e.g. at 4800MT/s and 6000Mt/s. Aim for zero errors in MemTest86. Even one error means your RAM is not stable.
https://www.memtest86.com/

If 6000MT/s is unstable in MemTest86, learn how to manually overclock RAM and try 5200MT/s, 5400MT/s, 5600MT/s, 5800MT/s, until you start to get errors in MemTest86. Then reduce the speed by at least 200MT/s to return a stable setting. Slower stable memory is far more important than flaky high speed memory settings.

According to CPU World, the 7800X3D is "guaranteed" up to 5200MT/s. You may simply be running your CPU's Integrated Memeory Controller channels too fast if you're using 6000MT/s. There's an art to overclocking RAM and automatic XMP settings don't always work.
https://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Zen/AMD-Ryzen 7 7800X3D.html

Memory controller

Memory channels (total): 2 Supported memory: DDR5-5200 ECC supported: Yes

I had to upgrade to Windows 11 from 10 during the time period. Would that count as a re-install or no

If you upgraded from Windows 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the new motherboard, you should be OK.

If you upgraded from 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the old motherboard, then moved the drive to the new motherboard, this can cause problems.

Some people (including myself) get lazy and transfer old Windows SSDs to different motherboards. Windows may seem to work fine in the new system, but wierd things can happen because you failed to observe "best practice"". On one of my systems, things ran incredibly slowly, until I reinstalled Windows properly from scratch.

It takes me 15 to 20 minutes to install Windows on an SSD, plus several hours to tweak settings and install all my favourite programs. Total time 4 to 5 hours. Contrast this with 60 seconds to plug an existing Windows drive into a new system and you can see why some people take a chance.

If you have any doubts, reinstall Windows 11 from scratch, e.g. on a spare drive (even a 120GB SATA SSD will do as a test). Once you've sorted things out, you can wipe your main boot drive (M.2 NVMe?) and reinstall Windows.

It's often best to "nuke it from orbit" (Aliens quotation) by wiping the drive and performing a clean install (no old data or settings retained). Backup any important files elsewhere if necessary.

Make sure any other hard disks and SSDs are physically disconnected during Windows installation. This is to ensure all necessary hidden and visible partitions created by Windows are written to the correct (boot) drive only.

You can reconnect any other drives, after booting into the new Windows Desktop for the first time.

I have a Tourbox, which is a drawing controller plugged in via usb, and that will also have issues on occasion.

Whilst fault finding, unplug all external hardware apart from the essentials (mouse, keyboard, monitor). Get the basic system working first, then add peripherals.

 

[ImTimIsMe]

Are you running your RAM at XMP/EXPO/DOCP 6000MT/s or at the JEDEC default of 4800MT/s?

If you're overclocking your RAM, disable DOCP (Asus BIOS) and check stability at 4800MT/s.

I havent overclocked anything, so its whatever the default is. I can try and do an Auto Overclock via AMD Adrenaline since I dont know enough about it to confidently do it on my own.

If you upgraded from Windows 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the new motherboard, you should be OK.

If you upgraded from 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the old motherboard, then moved the drive to the new motherboard, this can cause problems.

Some people (including myself) get lazy and transfer old Windows SSDs to different motherboards. Windows may seem to work fine in the new system, but wierd things can happen because you failed to observe "best practice"". On one of my systems, things ran incredibly slowly, until I reinstalled Windows properly from scratch.

I had reset my pc and reinstalled Windows a couple days ago, and there were no improvements.
Unfortunately as well, my windows is on an HDD that I havent upgraded since my first build nearly 10 years ago. I definitely plan to upgrade, and transfer all files to a new SSD, in the near future to get rid of it.

 

[Misgar]

I can try and do an Auto Overclock via AMD Adrenaline since I dont know enough about it to confidently do it on my own.

If your system is unstable and still running at "stock" frequencies, I strongly advise against overclocking. You'll only make things worse. I'd be inclined to check carefully and to if your RAM is being overclocked. If the BIOS setting isn't obvious, try some test software and look at the memory frequency.

https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

If your RAM is running at stock JEDEC settings, you should see 2400MHz RAM clcok speed (when multiplied by 2 for DDR this gives 4800MT/s (which may be shown as 4800MHz). If you see 3000MHz (or 6000MT/s) your RAM is being overclocked. Remove the overclock if it's enabled.

Unfortunately as well, my windows is on an HDD that I havent upgraded since my first build nearly 10 years ago.

Apart from the fact Windows will be very slow running hard disk (I still have some XP systems that boot from hard disks), if the drive is 10 years old, it may be on its way out with "bad blocks", "pending sectors" or corrupted files, etc.

Three things you can try:

CHKDSK
DISM
SFC

If you run CHKDSK on drive C: with the /F switch, you can check the hard disk for errors and attempt to fix them.
https://www.howtogeek.com/1033/how-to-use-chkdsk-on-windows/

If you run sfc /scannow from the Command Prompt (with Admin rights) and DISM, they should correct most OS related problems.
https://woshub.com/dism-cleanup-image-restorehealth/

I definitely plan to upgrade, and transfer all files to a new SSD

A cheap120GB SATA SSD costing around $15 is sufficient to install Windows (but not much else) and use as a temporary replacement. If you can afford it, buy a 500GB or 1TB SATA SSD with DRAM cache (considerably more expensive).

As a rule of thumb, DRAMless SATA SSDs are half the price of equivalent sized SATA SSDs with DRAM. A DRAM cache makes Windows faster, but it's not vital. If your motherboard has an M.2 slot, check to see if it is SATA (slower) or NVMe (faster).

 

[ImTimIsMe]

If your RAM is running at stock JEDEC settings, you should see 2400MHz RAM clcok speed (when multiplied by 2 for DDR this gives 4800MT/s (which may be shown as 4800MHz). If you see 3000MHz (or 6000MT/s) your RAM is being overclocked. Remove the overclock if it's enabled.

Ram is running just under 2400, at ~2394/5.
The scan showed that the drive did have an error and I'm going through the fix now. Insanely slow, so I'll update again after it's done it's thing. ...Probably would have been a better idea to do it at night so I wouldn't be locked out of my ps for 12 hours...
As for the SSD, I plan to get a 4tb 990 evo plus. I could use the extra space anyways, better to have more than less.