Question PC build crashes on every game after about 1 minute

[idkX4F1]

My PC build has had a lot of problems, but now that its finally running it can't even run any games. With my previous problems, I had to replace my motherboard and GPU after getting it checked, but now the PC can't run any games.

It crashes on Fortnite (Crashes right after getting into a lobby), Valorant (crashes randomly, about 1 minute into a game), and even on Roblox( crashes from about 30seconds-5minutes into a game).
I even undervolted and underclocked my card using MSI afterburner and it still has the same crashes. I'm not sure if I got another bad GPU or if my PSU is bad. (or if its something else like my drives, or windows)

I'm just trying to finally finish dealing with returns and bad parts and finally use the PC.

Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 4500
MOBO: ASUS Prime B550-A wifi II
RAM: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16GB
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 2060 D6 6G (rev. 2.0)
PSU: Cooler Master MWE Bronze 500 80+ Bronze 500W
M2: Team Group MS30 M.2 2280 512GB
HDD: WD Blue 1TB

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, so I don't know what you've done or not done already, so bear with me.

What is the current motherboard BIOS version? I don't want to hear "it's the latest". I want to know what version, exactly, is installed?

Have you manually GONE to the product support page for the Prime B550-A WiFi II and downloaded the drivers for chipset (.inf), LAN/Ethernet and Wifi/BT adapters and audio controller, then installed them, or are you relying on the Windows natively supplied drivers?

Your MWE, I'm very sorry to say, but it's kind of a POS. Honestly, it's not a very good power supply AND it's underpowered even if it was a very good 500w unit. The recommended capacity for an RTX 2060 is a minimum of 500w but that MWE has only 459w on the 12v rail. Still, that would likely be fine if it was capable of fully supporting that capacity but we've seen innumerable problems with the first gen MWE units. The MWE v2 units aren't nearly as bad, but still not really great, but the first gen MWE units were problematic in a lot of cases.

Your problem MIGHT be something other than the PSU, but considering that you've had "lots of problems" and have "likely" had this same PSU through all of them, and replacing other hardware didn't solve the issue, I think that's absolutely where I'd start. And to be honest, it's usually where I start anyhow because more often than not unless you already have a very good quality "known good" PSU, it is quite often the problem to begin with. And even if it isn't, I'd still highly recommend replacing that unit with something that has at least halfway decent quality.

I'd start there, but if that WD 1TB drive has a lot of miles on it, you might want to completely disconnect it and see if you still have issues gaming especially if the games are living on that drive. You may have to just install a game on your primary drive temporarily to test the theory, but be sure to have the other drive completely disconnected from data and power cables when you do.

 

[idkX4F1]

Ok, so I don't know what you've done or not done already, so bear with me.

What is the current motherboard BIOS version? I don't want to hear "it's the latest". I want to know what version, exactly, is installed?

Have you manually GONE to the product support page for the Prime B550-A WiFi II and downloaded the drivers for chipset (.inf), LAN/Ethernet and Wifi/BT adapters and audio controller, then installed them, or are you relying on the Windows natively supplied drivers?

Your MWE, I'm very sorry to say, but it's kind of a POS. Honestly, it's not a very good power supply AND it's underpowered even if it was a very good 500w unit. The recommended capacity for an RTX 2060 is a minimum of 500w but that MWE has only 459w on the 12v rail. Still, that would likely be fine if it was capable of fully supporting that capacity but we've seen innumerable problems with the first gen MWE units. The MWE v2 units aren't nearly as bad, but still not really great, but the first gen MWE units were problematic in a lot of cases.

Your problem MIGHT be something other than the PSU, but considering that you've had "lots of problems" and have "likely" had this same PSU through all of them, and replacing other hardware didn't solve the issue, I think that's absolutely where I'd start. And to be honest, it's usually where I start anyhow because more often than not unless you already have a very good quality "known good" PSU, it is quite often the problem to begin with. And even if it isn't, I'd still highly recommend replacing that unit with something that has at least halfway decent quality.

I'd start there, but if that WD 1TB drive has a lot of miles on it, you might want to completely disconnect it and see if you still have issues gaming especially if the games are living on that drive. You may have to just install a game on your primary drive temporarily to test the theory, but be sure to have the other drive completely disconnected from data and power cables when you do.

Ok, so my bios version is 2604. (which is 2 updates behind the latest version).
And yes, I downloaded all my drivers straight from the asus website for chipset/lan/wifi/bluetooth/audio.

But, I will try to replace the PSU and see if that works.
But could it be a bad GPU, since my PC doesn't shut off or anything, the games just close and give me a crash error.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Update the BIOS to the latest version and replace the PSU. If doing both of those doesn't fix the problem then we can go from there. And before you buy a different PSU, do yourself a favor and check with me first so I can give you a thumbs up or down on whether it is a model worth even considering or just another problem.

Have you tried doing a CLEAN install of Windows at some point? If so, how long ago?

 

[idkX4F1]

Update the BIOS to the latest version and replace the PSU. If doing both of those doesn't fix the problem then we can go from there. And before you buy a different PSU, do yourself a favor and check with me first so I can give you a thumbs up or down on whether it is a model worth even considering or just another problem.

Have you tried doing a CLEAN install of Windows at some point? If so, how long ago?

Ok, so I need to get a power supply that's under 70 dollars that will work for my PC. If you have any recommendations, that would be great.

I was looking at this one:

https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-...cription=psu&cm_re=psu-_-17-153-415-_-Product

Regarding windows, after I replaced the motherboard, I did do a new clean installation of windows.

 

[Darkbreeze]

What country are you in?

 

[idkX4F1]

What country are you in?

US

 

[Darkbreeze]

No. Look closely at who the seller is on that link. It is NOT Newegg. It is a 3rd party seller "Henry's store" who has a whole TWO ratings on record for their storefront and looking at their storefront it looks very eclectic. I'd be willing to bet almost 100% that if you buy from this seller you are going to either have problems getting your product, or get a product that is either not new or not what you expect OR more importantly, get a product that is not backed by the manufacturer's warranty because it is not an official Thermaltake retail partner. Personally, I'd avoid it.

That unit sells everywhere else for no less than $65.98 right now so the fact that that unit is so cheap should be throwing a whole truck bed of red flags out. It might be ok, but it is seriously rolling the dice.

Power supplies simply aren't that cheap for anything with halfway decent quality and performance except in very rare circumstances like when Newegg has their Rosewill Capstone M units on sale for half price. But those are coming directly from Newegg who is both the seller and the shipper in those cases.

This would be the the least of what I'd recommend, going very bottom of the barrel in terms of being adequate for the job and reliable enough to not be a waste of money.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair CX650M (2021) 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Corsair)
Total: $54.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-12-19 20:45 EST-0500



But this would be WELL worth the extra cost and a FAR better choice both in the short and long runs.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: NZXT C650 (2022) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-12-19 20:46 EST-0500

 

[idkX4F1]

No. Look closely at who the seller is on that link. It is NOT Newegg. It is a 3rd party seller "Henry's store" who has a whole TWO ratings on record for their storefront and looking at their storefront it looks very eclectic. I'd be willing to bet almost 100% that if you buy from this seller you are going to either have problems getting your product, or get a product that is either not new or not what you expect OR more importantly, get a product that is not backed by the manufacturer's warranty because it is not an official Thermaltake retail partner. Personally, I'd avoid it.

That unit sells everywhere else for no less than $65.98 right now so the fact that that unit is so cheap should be throwing a whole truck bed of red flags out. It might be ok, but it is seriously rolling the dice.

Power supplies simply aren't that cheap for anything with halfway decent quality and performance except in very rare circumstances like when Newegg has their Rosewill Capstone M units on sale for half price. But those are coming directly from Newegg who is both the seller and the shipper in those cases.

This would be the the least of what I'd recommend, going very bottom of the barrel in terms of being adequate for the job and reliable enough to not be a waste of money.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair CX650M (2021) 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Corsair)
Total: $54.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-12-19 20:45 EST-0500



But this would be WELL worth the extra cost and a FAR better choice both in the short and long runs.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: NZXT C650 (2022) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-12-19 20:46 EST-0500

Thank you for pointing out the seller discrepancy on newegg. I decided to just get the corsair one you sent, since I have to stay in my budget.
I will update this thread after getting and installing the new PSU. Thank you!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Of course. Let me know how it goes.

 

[idkX4F1]

Of course. Let me know how it goes.

Ok, so I installed the new PSU and it seemed to be fine. But once I got into windows and chrome and launched a game(Roblox), I can see small white bars every once in a while. Then in the game, it crashed again after about 30 seconds
Even while browsing through the computer these small white bars show up for like 1 frame and go away. So is it a GPU problem?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, it certainly seems related.

So, you've tried different cables right?

You've tried different inputs (HDMI, Displayport, DVI, VGA, whatever) right?

Replaced the power supply. Seems a lot more likely now that it's the graphics card. But, you've replaced the graphics card once you said, right? Are you SURE they replaced it and didn't just send you back the same one? Replaced the motherboard too right?

Might very well be the CPU. Seem to be seeing quite a few of these on AMD lately.

 

[idkX4F1]

Well, it certainly seems related.

So, you've tried different cables right?

You've tried different inputs (HDMI, Displayport, DVI, VGA, whatever) right?

Replaced the power supply. Seems a lot more likely now that it's the graphics card. But, you've replaced the graphics card once you said, right? Are you SURE they replaced it and didn't just send you back the same one? Replaced the motherboard too right?

Might very well be the CPU. Seem to be seeing quite a few of these on AMD lately.

Ok, so for the GPU I had an RX 6600 before with my old motherboard. The drivers kept on crashing (the adrenaline software said it's crashing every couple minutes into windows boot). So then I returned it and bought an RTX 2060. But My computer was still crashing so I just went to micro-center to get a diagnosis. Then I found out that the motherboard was defective and they replaced it with a new motherboard (different model from the original one I had, probably had none in stock of the one I had).

So yea the GPU is a different model from amazon. And yea the Motherboard is also a different model from my original one so I know its new.


Yea I've tried the other ports too, the same result. It's crazy how many defective parts I've had on this build.


edit: also is there any way for me to check and see what is crashing these games so I know for sure?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Did you ever update the BIOS?

As far as the hardware goes, different board, different video card, clean install of Windows, drivers up to date, tried different display TYPES.

Have you ever run Memtest86 to test the memory?

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

 

[idkX4F1]

Did you ever update the BIOS?

As far as the hardware goes, different board, different video card, clean install of Windows, drivers up to date, tried different display TYPES.

Have you ever run Memtest86 to test the memory?

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

So I ran memtest86 and it passed all tests. ( Idk how long it's supposed to run for, but I got 2 passes with no errors)
Memtest86 results:

https://imgur.com/a/KU5YHvm

View: https://imgur.com/a/KU5YHvm


So I'm guessing it's not a ram or CPU problem. All my drives are new and working fine so, I'm sure it's not any of my drives. So does that narrow it down to my GPU?

(regarding BIOS, for some reason the ASUS support download page isnt loading on any of my browsers or devices, so I haven't been able to update it)

 

[Darkbreeze]

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests,

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes

One pass, two passes or three passes, is just a waste of time. I've seen dozens and dozens of memory configurations that tested perfectly fine up until the fourth pass. If it cannot complete ALL FOUR passes without ANY errors at all, then there is a problem with either the memory itself or the memory configuration. I would do the four passes even though it is time consuming.

Probably it's not what is causing games to "crash after about a minute" but it certainly could be depending on what is making it crash.

You bought this graphics card used?

 

[idkX4F1]

One pass, two passes or three passes, is just a waste of time. I've seen dozens and dozens of memory configurations that tested perfectly fine up until the fourth pass. If it cannot complete ALL FOUR passes without ANY errors at all, then there is a problem with either the memory itself or the memory configuration. I would do the four passes even though it is time consuming.

Probably it's not what is causing games to "crash after about a minute" but it certainly could be depending on what is making it crash.

You bought this graphics card used?

https://imgur.com/a/jcYdILA

View: https://imgur.com/a/jcYdILA


Yea it passed 4 tests with 0 errors.

And no the graphics card was not used it was from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HYPDL4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, so memory passes. Not memory.

PSU was replaced. Had same problem before replacing PSU. Not PSU.

Motherboard was replaced. Had same problem before replacing motherboard. Not motherboard.

Graphics card was replaced. Had same problem before replacing graphics card. Pretty unlikely it's graphics card since it was replaced with a new card and not a used one. Can't rule it out though, but it's not very likely if the same problem was there before buying this one.

Basically all that's left are the CPU, storage devices, cables, installation goof ups like maybe a standoff in the wrong place under the motherboard, CPU cooler improperly installed and cocking the CPU in the socket, wiring problems or OS/driver problems.

Have you done a clean install of Windows since you changed graphics cards OR at the very least, used the DDU to remove all of the AMD graphics drivers, then all of the Nvidia drivers, then reinstall the AMD chipset drivers (Just to be sure since there is potential for them to be borked up when removing any AMD All in one drivers (Chipset and graphics)) and then reinstall the Nvidia drivers?

Or, simply do a clean install of Windows, then install the AMD chipset drivers, then install the Nvidia drivers, then install a game and test it out without installing ANY other software you normally use which will hopefully tell us whether it's a driver or OS issue.

And when you do a clean install, if you do, you need to be sure you DO a CLEAN install. Doing so requires creating new installation media using the Microsoft Windows media creation tool, then disconnecting all drives except the drive you are putting Windows on and the drive you are using to install it from, then choosing the "Custom" option during the installation, then deleting ALL of the existing partitions shown on the "where do you want to install Windows" list of partitions and then clicking on the remaining unpartitioned and unformatted drive space and clicking next.

Windows installer will create any required partitions and perform any necessary formatting, automatically.

Before going through all that though it would make sense to double and triple check all wiring, make sure there are no standoffs under the motherboard where there is no standoff hole that lines directly up with it, make sure there are no bent pins on the CPU and make sure you have installed all the latest drivers from the motherboard and Nvidia product pages.

I would also recommend that you download Hard disk sentinel or WD lifeguard tools, and test the HD and SSD by running first the short drive self test (DST)/Quick test and if they pass that run the Long generic/extended test to make sure this isn't a drive problem. If you get failures, try a different SATA data and a different SATA power cable to your HDD and make sure your NVME drive is fully and properly seated.

 

[idkX4F1]

Ok, so memory passes. Not memory.

PSU was replaced. Had same problem before replacing PSU. Not PSU.

Motherboard was replaced. Had same problem before replacing motherboard. Not motherboard.

Graphics card was replaced. Had same problem before replacing graphics card. Pretty unlikely it's graphics card since it was replaced with a new card and not a used one. Can't rule it out though, but it's not very likely if the same problem was there before buying this one.

Basically all that's left are the CPU, storage devices, cables, installation goof ups like maybe a standoff in the wrong place under the motherboard, CPU cooler improperly installed and cocking the CPU in the socket, wiring problems or OS/driver problems.

Have you done a clean install of Windows since you changed graphics cards OR at the very least, used the DDU to remove all of the AMD graphics drivers, then all of the Nvidia drivers, then reinstall the AMD chipset drivers (Just to be sure since there is potential for them to be borked up when removing any AMD All in one drivers (Chipset and graphics)) and then reinstall the Nvidia drivers?

Or, simply do a clean install of Windows, then install the AMD chipset drivers, then install the Nvidia drivers, then install a game and test it out without installing ANY other software you normally use which will hopefully tell us whether it's a driver or OS issue.

And when you do a clean install, if you do, you need to be sure you DO a CLEAN install. Doing so requires creating new installation media using the Microsoft Windows media creation tool, then disconnecting all drives except the drive you are putting Windows on and the drive you are using to install it from, then choosing the "Custom" option during the installation, then deleting ALL of the existing partitions shown on the "where do you want to install Windows" list of partitions and then clicking on the remaining unpartitioned and unformatted drive space and clicking next.

Windows installer will create any required partitions and perform any necessary formatting, automatically.

Before going through all that though it would make sense to double and triple check all wiring, make sure there are no standoffs under the motherboard where there is no standoff hole that lines directly up with it, make sure there are no bent pins on the CPU and make sure you have installed all the latest drivers from the motherboard and Nvidia product pages.

I would also recommend that you download Hard disk sentinel or WD lifeguard tools, and test the HD and SSD by running first the short drive self test (DST)/Quick test and if they pass that run the Long generic/extended test to make sure this isn't a drive problem. If you get failures, try a different SATA data and a different SATA power cable to your HDD and make sure your NVME drive is fully and properly seated.

Ok so I started with a clean install of windows. I deleted all previous partitions and selected my nvme ssd as boot drive. And my hdd isnt even formatted yet, so I haven't used it yet.
Then I installed amd chipset drivers (chipset, wifi, lan, audio). Eveyrthing was still going smoothly. Then I installed the 2060 drivers and then after installation my screen went black a couple of times, which I thought was normal for most driver installations. Then I rebooted my PC and every few seconds my screen keeps going black and monitor loosing signal. And it keeps going black and back to normal. Then once I got to windows homepage after the continous black screens, the whole page went black and the the screen of the homepage is like not loaded(black), but I can move my mouse. And I can right click and left click but everything is black. So i have to guess where eveyrthing is. I feel lilke this all sort of happened after installing the graphics driver, as the last time I installed it it did that also. I don't know I feel like it is the GPU, but I honestly dont know for sure.

Some images to sort of understand better:

https://imgur.com/a/N23iFLk

View: https://imgur.com/a/N23iFLk

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok. I figured out what your problem is.

God hates you. It's ok. He usually hates me too. You are not alone. LOL.