PSU tier list 2.0

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I'm going to open up my Rosewill PSU, for fun, and look at what's inside. What precautions do I have to take? What can I touch and what can I not touch? I'd rather not get shocked. I once had this shocky gum, and I was always so tempted to pull it. It was a fun prank to do on others. Anyway, I eventually threw it out because it was too tempting, but I regret it now.
 


That's easy for you to say, but when I look at myself 1.5-2 years ago, I realize that I made the mistake twice. First my crap Rosewill PSU, secondly my crap EVGA 500W PSU. So the question I asked myself is, why didn't I do my research then Darkbreeze? You know why I didn't do my research? Because of rated wattage. It's the only thing I saw on PSU covers, so I assumed that a 400W PSU somehow magically "delivers" 400W, and the 500W PSU magically "delivers" 500W. And that was that. I didn't do my research because I never realized that the PSU is the one component where outside specifications like rated wattage are meaningless. Much of the fault is that they put the most unimportant arbitrary trait of a PSU, rated wattage, smack-dab in the name.

Much of the fault is also contributed to the way we talk about electricity. People say "it has enough power" but power is not a stuff, charge is a stuff. Or people will say it "supplies power" but really it pumps charge. If they were called "Charge pumps" instead of power supplies, a lot of misconceptions for newbies would be cleared. People get this idea that a PSU is like a squirt gun that shoots lightning at components, and some store more lightning, hence have more rated wattage. This is a horrible misunderstanding so many new people have. But then there's one problem left: how are we going to specify which charge pumps can create a current with higher amperage? This is when the rated wattage barrier is broken.

What happens then is no power supply can be sold until it passes testing done by some official CPU (charge pump unit) corporation. They overload the crap out of the thing and see how much amperage on each rail it can create until it:

1) Burns or blows
2) Shuts down from protections
3) Has voltage and/or ripple and noise out of spec

Once any of the above happens, that is the maximum value of a CPU or charge pump. So in a CPU, let's call it the Turkey3 Pro Charge Pump 10-10-50-5, the name would mean that this PSU was officially tested and can safely handle 10A on the 3.3V rail, 10A on the 5V, 50A on the 12V, and 5A on the 5VSB rail, and that'd be the new naming spectrum. Then, when new users look for a PSU, they will see 10-10-50-5 and be like "what?" and they'll have to actually do research.

If we make the naming system confusing, people are forced to do research. If we stick to rated wattage, people buy junk.
 
By you own admission, 1.5-2 years ago, you didn't know crap, in which case, you too should not have ever been selected to win any contest based on configuring the best build for the budget. Which of course, you weren't, because you weren't anybody's PCPartpicker pet. Again, end of story.
 
Rated wattage is just as good a measure as current, even more so back before the 12V rail did everything useful.

Making stuff more complicated doesn't help. You just get 'I heard Corsair is good'. Stopping the sale of all the products that aren't correctly UL listed would be far more effective at getting rid of the real fire hazards, and a few false advertising lawsuits against people selling 'ATX compliant' ones that don't meet the ripple specs or output rated wattage would do the rest.

The build with the CX750 was the 'randomly selected' one - people didn't vote for it. I don't see a problem with that. There would be massively legal and accountability issues if they removed builds for reasons not in the contest rules, plus they'd probably be facing a libel/slander lawsuit from Corsair if they didn't have proof beyond 'Corsair PSUs bad trollolol'.

Saying that they should ignore the voter decisions simply because 'they made the wrong decision' is a very bad precedent, although admittedly this isn't an election and there's a little less at stake.

Better to just give them the parts then point them at the retailer/manufacturer if something goes wrong.

 
Hey guys im planning to set up a new rig soon. is it alright for me to use an old psu ? if not which one would be the most cheapest yet reliable option, considering im not going to be overclocking or doing sli? thanks in advance
 


That depends on the specs of the new PC and the quality of the old PSU.
 
Would you please add K-Mex, Pixxo and Acteck to tier 5? Those are mexican brands starting to be marketed on the USA. Nobody that I know has ever had a good experience with any of those models. Also, stup*dly cheap. like $20 the 500W models. Lack of any certification. die at 6 months or less, and cause system unstability when starting to draw 100W or more from the wall. Acteck and Pixxo already destroyed me two builds, at least they were low-end rigs.
 
Unfortunately we cannot update the list, only Dotorrent can, so it's up to him if he'll add them or not.

Every day I learn of a new PSU brand, not even kidding. It's amazing how many no-name brands are out there.

If you look here http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/power-supplies-with-fake-80-plus-badges/2/ Kmex is there for fake 80 Plus badges.
 


I was actually talking to him 😛
Lol I didn't know that, I just bought a couple of pre-built PCs for my parents and they both died like 3 months later and they called and asked "Son, why isn't the computer starting?" I went to their house, swapped the PSUs with my evga 500b, -I know it's not a great unit but has worked for my office PC so far- and they both worked, but the video cards died, my guess is some problem with voltage. Different brands but died pretty much at the same time
I know there are around 3 or more brands that have the same problems here, but I can't remember the names right now, maybe I'll add them to my first comment later. Dottorrent, you would be making a favor to a lot of mexicans and potentially a lot of americans as well, these are brands you can find ANYWHERE on Mexico. It sucks.
 




I might be getting either an i5 or i7 skylake series with a z series board, ssd and another sata hdd. gpu is a gtx 760 and one legacy wifi card. and give or take 3 cooling fans no water cooling . with regards to my power supply. its not a well branded one tbh. i bought in Asia a few years and i haven't had any problems with it whatsoever. anything i can do to test or judge it? its a 500w power supply
 
Anyone know anything about these new units: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817328007&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= ?

Besides that they are CWT.
 
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