Question Red CPU DEBUG light on Motherboard turns on only when playing games (PC WORKS FINE)

[jumanjistevensen]

I have a PC built in mid 2020 that I have been using pretty extensively for the past 3 years. This past month, my computer has been running into more problems with random crashing (display cuts out, then the computer auto restarts). However, it has not been bad to the point where I had to get it checked out as it would resolve itself and I can play games and do work on it as normal (happens maybe 3 times a month). This past month I downloaded and started playing Dark and Darker, and during one play session (3+ hours) my computer crashed with a WHEA error (unfortunately I did not take a screenshot). My computer was definitely hot to the touch. I only know this as I have never before received a crash screen like that and it said WHEA error on it. After restarting and resuming to play games, I noticed certain games I usually was able to run now ran at slightly slower (approx. 30-40 fps less). I chalked it up to the rig getting old, but then as I started to play Dark and Darker again, I noticed that my CPU red light on the motherboard would turn on, and stay on (only during times in which I am actively playing in a game). Then I noticed that this red light would turn on for other games that I had no problem running for the past 3 years. For example, in the loading lobby for Valorant, or CSGO, I don't get the red light, but as soon as I enter a match and have to physically play the game, the light turns back on.

I checked temps and it seems that my computer was both dusty and overheating. I cleaned it out, reapplied the thermal paste and thought that would do the trick but the light would still come on when playing games.

I proceeded to download HWINFO per recommendations of other folks on this forum and found that my CPU would jump to 5.1 GHZ on all cores at 1.4-1.5 voltage when running some of these games, causing my CPU temp to reach 100 (which is the TJMAX according to my CPU model). It is when the loads become this high while playing games that my CPU red light turns on. Additionally my computer with very little applications running (lets say just Google Chrome), will sit at around 30-45 Celsius basically while idle, which from my understanding is relatively high.

When I initially set-up the PC, I did "overclock" (with very little knowledge) by activating intel boost which caused my core clock to go from 3.8 (stock) to the 5.1.

I haven't had any issues thus far and my computer continues to work during these games even when the red light is on. Albeit, I have not really been using the computer extensively out of fear that I could push it over the limit.

I have XMP profiles also activated if this affects this. My question is how can I turn this light off, what could be the potential reasons for it, and whether I should be concerned about it. Additionally on what the recommended voltage to set in BIOS would be as to not cause my CPU to reach over 100 celsius in temp.

My Specs:

CPU: i7 10700k
Motherboard: Rog Strix z490 F Gaming
GPU: RTX 2070 Super (gigabyte) 8gb
PSU: Corsair rm 750x
RAM: Gskillz DDR4-3603 / PC4-28800 DDR4 SDRAM
Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100x Extreme Performance Liquid / Water 240mm CPU Cooler

I can provide any additional OC settings applied in the BIOS, but as I did not know much, I left everything to Auto for the most part apart from the option that syncs all cores and the XMP, as well as activating the Intel Turbo.

I felt this was weird as I had not applied any updates or new peripherals prior to this issue becoming apparent. Just the overheating and crashing event with the new game (Dark and darker)

Thank you once again.

 

[punkncat]

Case/fans/airflow?

are you cleaning dust from this rig?

 

[jumanjistevensen]

Case/fans/airflow?

are you cleaning dust from this rig?

Hi thank you for your reply.

Yes. I cleaned every 6 months (not ideal, I understand). But most recently, I took the cooler and fans out, dusted and cleaned everything. So as of now the rig if very clean. The air flow should be good as I have an intake chassis fan in the back and the AIO cooler at the top for flowing the heat out.

The case is an old one from thermaltake from my very first rig built in 2018.

 

[punkncat]

Without more detail, try dropping the side panel and see if those temps get better. I may have missed, have you tried a repaste?

Also, if that AIO is more than 5yo it could be failing.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

Hi what more in terms of details would you like?

To note I did some experimenting and limited the maximum core clock for the CPU to be at 4.9 rather than the original 5.1.

The voltage setting I have left at auto but it has not gone over 1.4 since I changed the cpu core max clock.

I was able to run a session of dark and darker without the red light appearing, and the temps did not reach above 100 celsius (hovered at max around 80-90).

I believe this further confirms that this is potentially a cooling issue?

The AIO is from 2020 so it is not that old. However, an important detail I forgot to include is for the first two years of the pumps use, I did not connect the pump connector head to the aio pump motherboard connection, and instead plugged it into a CPU chassis fan header, which may or may not have caused my CPU to be used for 2 years + without the actual pump being utilized. This was corrected earlier in the year.

 

[Unolocogringo]

Is your rear fan blowing air out or pulling air in your case?
"intake chassis fan in the back and the AIO cooler at the top for flowing the heat out."

 

[jumanjistevensen]

Upon further inspection I am unsure as air is slightly blowing out in both directions for both fans. The AIO is situated on the topside panel of the rig. The chassis fan came as a default (already installed into case) with the case situated on the back side of the case.

I understand optimal airflow is important but if I have the case opened and there is access to outer air, would this still be an issue? I currently am running tests with the case open so I feel as if air flow would minimally impact the readings in this case but then again that is exactly why I am on these forums asking these questions.

 

[SorryBella]

I currently am running tests with the case open so I feel as if air flow would minimally impact the readings in this case but then again that is exactly why I am on these forums asking these questions.

Heavily depends on what case you're using here. Most cases do see some improvements in temps but some only marginally as they're already pretty open as is. But either way, open case at 90 degrees is suspicious to say at the VERY least.

Also, Asus boards defaults to really high voltage on boost, so try turning off Multicore Enhancement for a bit if it is on Auto or Enabled.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

Heavily depends on what case you're using here. Most cases do see some improvements in temps but some only marginally as they're already pretty open as is. But either way, open case at 90 degrees is suspicious to say at the VERY least.

Also, Asus boards defaults to really high voltage on boost, so try turning off Multicore Enhancement for a bit if it is on Auto or Enabled.

Hi! Thank you for the reply.

I actually was curious as there is an ASUS bios optimized core enhancement option which I have left at Auto -Bios optimized. Was not too sure whether I wanted to play around with this setting initially but I can definitely see whether disabling this option will keep the voltages lower than 1.3-1.4 (as I am currently limiting the corecpu clock to 4.9.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

AN UPDATE:

After adjusting settings to limit the max core cpu clock at 4.9 ghz rather than the original uncapped 5.1 ghz, I have seen significant drops in average cpu temps as well as not seeing the red CPU light on the motherboard turning on throughout longer game sessions.

I still do not think that this problem has been "resolved" as HWINFO is still showing that I am hovering between 80-95 celsius in temps while playing games. The voltage still goes up to 1.35, 1.4 at times which I believe is the culprit behind the higher temps and causing the red cpu light on MOBO to turn on.

I will attempt to adjust the setting for multicore enhancements off per SorryBella's suggestion and see if this can further improve my average CPU temps while under load.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

Hey folks,

Just wanted to refresh this thread with another update.

I believe the red light turns on during moments of heavy load when the CPU is experiencing overheating.

I have tried everything from reseating CPU/repasting thermals and additionally lowering the max clock to 4.9 and disabling multicore enhancements within the ASUS bios.

I was able to play for 3 days without any problems and today when I ran a game the light came back.

I am slightly defeated in a sense - the max voltages sit around 1.39, slightly under 1.4. I still have not tried to manually undervolt but this may be my next option.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Phaaze88]

I believe the red light turns on during moments of heavy load when the CPU is experiencing overheating.

If at least one core reaches 99.5C, then yes, the cpu LED will come on as a warning. The LED not staying on is proof that the thermal protection is working.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Going by all the other posts, replace that cooler. AIOs inevitably fail, wherein the pump has died, or the biocides or corrosion inhibitors have expired, leading to nasty crud building up in the loop.
Without knowing what exactly the Thermaltake case is, recommending a good value cooler would be difficult - I mean, besides knowing that a standard 240mm AIO fits.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

If at least one core reaches 99.5C, then yes, the cpu LED will come on as a warning. The LED not staying on is proof that the thermal protection is working.


Going by all the other posts, replace that cooler. AIOs inevitably fail, wherein the pump has died, or the biocides or corrosion inhibitors have expired, leading to nasty crud building up in the loop.
Without knowing what exactly the Thermaltake case is, recommending a good value cooler would be difficult - I mean, besides knowing that a standard 240mm AIO fits.

Hi and thank you for your reply.

It can potentially be that my AIO is no longer working. It is tough to tell. As one pipe does seem to get significantly hotter than the other and both fans are seemingly spinning and adjusting its RPM when under heavier loads. However I am also aware that this is not necessarily a tell tale sign that the pump is actually moving heat and "working".

I also wanted to note that the temperature for the CPU jumps insanely high during games that I have otherwise not had any problems with in the past few years. It will sit at 45-50 with just chrome open (which is still hot) and then will jump to mid 80s and up to 100 within 5 seconds of opening a game. On games that are full screen, if I tab out, the cpu red light on the MB will turn off and the temps will drop from the dangerous 80-90s to 50-60 within an instant. I am unsure if these dramatic jumps and changes in temperature are also pointing to the AIO not working properly.

I mentioned this before but I also did not have the pump header for the AIO cooler plugged in for almost two years of the 3 years I have been using this build. I had plugged the header into a regular fan header, which I corrected earlier in the year. I am unsure if not using the actual pump for so long caused the liquid to go bad.

I believe the case is a full ATX case and I currently have the AIO positioned on the top panel of the case.

 

[Phaaze88]

It is tough to tell. As one pipe does seem to get significantly hotter than the other and both fans are seemingly spinning and adjusting its RPM when under heavier loads. However I am also aware that this is not necessarily a tell tale sign that the pump is actually moving heat and "working".

That is the telltale sign that fluid flow is being impeded. If it's flowing normally, you're not supposed to be able to tell the difference, or if you can, it should be a slight one.

I mentioned this before but I also did not have the pump header for the AIO cooler plugged in for almost two years of the 3 years I have been using this build. I had plugged the header into a regular fan header, which I corrected earlier in the year. I am unsure if not using the actual pump for so long caused the liquid to go bad.

I don't get what the 'wrong header' stuff is about. The difference is the default curve, which can be adjusted in bios; set up any header to run like an AIO_PUMP header, or vice versa.
The chemicals in the premixed fluid still have a finite lifespan. If mechanical failure doesn't claim the cooler, then biological or chemical failure(corrosion) will.

I believe the case is a full ATX and I currently have the AIO positioned on the top panel of the case.

Apologies, but that doesn't narrow it down very much: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#m=56&t=4,3
I get 182 hits that support the current cooler...
Perhaps provide some pictures of the case? It should help narrow it down.
[You must use an image hosting site to post pics here.]

 

[Unolocogringo]

If one tube is more than a couple degrees hotter than the other in a liquid cooled system, something is wrong.
pump clogged or dead.
CPU block fins clogged or corroded blocking flow .
Air trapped in the pump.
Or coolant has evaporated out of the AIO.

Solution is to replace.
They have no user serviceable parts, beside changing fans.
Well technically you could, if you had the proper tools. to do the repair.
But the tools cost more than a new cooler.
It was nice while it lasted ,but now it is dead. resurrected many times, but finally dead.

Most motherboards tie the case fan speeds to the CPU temp. So plugging a pump to a case fan header is not detrimental. It will work but some work better when the pump is ran at full speed. Most motherboards have the "Pump" header set to run 100% as default. It is just a fan header pre-set to 100% instead of variable for newbies.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

That is the telltale sign that fluid flow is being impeded. If it's flowing normally, you're not supposed to be able to tell the difference, or if you can, it should be a slight one.


I don't get what the 'wrong header' stuff is about. The difference is the default curve, which can be adjusted in bios; set up any header to run like an AIO_PUMP header, or vice versa.
The chemicals in the premixed fluid still have a finite lifespan. If mechanical failure doesn't claim the cooler, then biological or chemical failure(corrosion) will.


Apologies, but that doesn't narrow it down very much: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#m=56&t=4,3
I get 182 hits that support the current cooler...
Perhaps provide some pictures of the case? It should help narrow it down.
[You must use an image hosting site to post pics here.]

https://imgur.com/a/VyLf3AN

View: https://imgur.com/a/VyLf3AN


I am unsure if that imgur link will work but the following images are of the inside of my PC and the outside shot of the thermaltake case. I believe it is called the thermaltake VIEW 22. Is there a recommended AIO for i7 10700k?

I am assuming the smartest option is to simply replace the AIO and monitor if this will be the difference. I also wanted to note I will want to be building a new PC soon so I was wondering if this would be a smart financial decision to purchase an AIO for this set up. I guess I would be able to re purpose the AIO for a new set up regardless.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

If one tube is more than a couple degrees hotter than the other in a liquid cooled system, something is wrong.
pump clogged or dead.
CPU block fins clogged or corroded blocking flow .
Air trapped in the pump.
Or coolant has evaporated out of the AIO.

Solution is to replace.
They have no user serviceable parts, beside changing fans.
Well technically you could, if you had the proper tools. to do the repair.
But the tools cost more than a new cooler.
It was nice while it lasted ,but now it is dead. resurrected many times, but finally dead.

Most motherboards tie the case fan speeds to the CPU temp. So plugging a pump to a case fan header is not detrimental. It will work but some work better when the pump is ran at full speed. Most motherboards have the "Pump" header set to run 100% as default. It is just a fan header pre-set to 100% instead of variable for newbies.

Thank you for the reply! It seems that through further investigation throughout the week that I am narrowing the problem down to the AIO cooler so it may be the next step to just purchase a new one.

I neglected to understand how important cooling setups were for my PC and am now paying for it. Based off the photos I provided, any recommendations for fans or cooling set ups would also be appreciated.

 

[Unolocogringo]

With your case I would suggest a 360 in the top. If you must have an AIO.
Reasoning>
your case has very restricted air flow.
The closed off front panel only lets air in along the edge.(Which appear to be clogged with dust). So mounting there would increase GPU and CPU temps.
This creates negative pressure drawing air in all of the vents around the PCI slots.
instead of some getting pulled in the open top fan position. Which is partially recirculated exhaust air.
Next remove the top fan filter. It restricts exhaus and causes more recirculation.
A 360 to compensate for low air flow. and less noise than cranking up the fans on a 240 for the same temps.

 

[jumanjistevensen]

With your case I would suggest a 360 in the top. If you must have an AIO.
Reasoning>
your case has very restricted air flow.
The closed off front panel only lets air in along the edge.(Which appear to be clogged with dust). So mounting there would increase GPU and CPU temps.
This creates negative pressure drawing air in all of the vents around the PCI slots.
instead of some getting pulled in the open top fan position. Which is partially recirculated exhaust air.
Next remove the top fan filter. It restricts exhaus and causes more recirculation.
A 360 to compensate for low air flow. and less noise than cranking up the fans on a 240 for the same temps.

Understood.

I will look into 360 AIOs - I am not too keen on RGB, I prefer non LED set ups or at least minimal lighting (only the functional lights that are required to understand the components are working). Would you happen to have any recommendations for brands? Ideally I would like to make a purchase now that can be used for a later setup.

Additionally, would any extra support fans be recommended? As of now, as you can see in the photo, I have only one chassis fan at the back of the case above the VRM heat sinks. I believe this is a fan that came with the case so it will be close to 6 years old now. I could replace this as well as adding more fans as my case has adequate spacing for additional fans.

Thank you once again for your replies, it is highly appreciated.