TEC/Peltier CPU Chilled Water Cooling

[4Ryan6]

This may sound Absurd but perhaps you could seal the case and have Silica Dioxide Filters. Silica absorbs 40% of it's weight in moisture and you can simply dry them off. There's got to be something that will control humidity in the air for electronics. Industrial Technology.

You are correct, that does sound Absurd!

Seal the case?

I still need airflow through the case!

 

[CustomBuilt]

Wow Ryan, I am quite surprised by your choice to do this. While I currently have no idea's for you, I do wonder why you are choosing to do this?
Are you just wanting to see how far you can push your chip?

 

[4Ryan6]

Wow Ryan, I am quite surprised by your choice to do this. While I currently have no idea's for you, I do wonder why you are choosing to do this?
Are you just wanting to see how far you can push your chip?

After weighing out the pros and cons of going sub zero, and the additional work and cost to insulate the motherboard, and be forced to use anti-freeze as well, I decided Not to do it!

 

[4Ryan6]

I had my first failure in almost 2 years, I noticed my usual reservoir water temperature was higher temperature than it was supposed to be? (It was only 6c below ambient?)

Checked out the setup and the 2nd TEC assembly was not outputting heat, reason was the 30a 12v automotive paddle toggle switch that controlled that assembly getting it's electricity had failed, (A Sold in US part, Made in China Go Figure!), since I wasn't even actively using it anymore just leaving it switched On, I took it out of the wiring loop and hard wired the ends together.

All is well now, the switch was the cheapest element of the entire setup anyway, Back in Business!

I really though a 30a switch would never be a problem?

I was wrong!

I have no need of the switch anymore because the 2nd TEC assembly is always energized, the 5ghz overclocked heat load vs the chilled water temperature, can be simply controlled by controlling the ambient room temperature, it is that balanced. (It is balanced for a 5ghz overclock, lowering the overclock would require replacing the switch, but I have no intention of lowering the overclock, I may increase it, but not lower it.)

Happy Holidays! Ryan

 

[Motopsychojdn]

Glad to see that your first 'Failure' was as easily addressed as I'd have expected from you mate, 6'C below ambients a sketchy place to be sitting hehe
Moto

 

[4Ryan6]

Yeah, I'm normally about 15c below ambient.

All is well since I cut the switch out of the wiring loop, no more problems!

 

[Motopsychojdn]

there are no problems anyway mate, only challenges hehe
Moto

 

[4Ryan6]

there are no problems anyway mate, only challenges hehe
Moto

I'm glad you're back Moto!

Ry

 

[Motopsychojdn]

Yeah me too man
Moto

 

[4Ryan6]

Kinda getting excited now, 7 days away from 2 years of this setup being in operation, then I have further testing I'm going to do and the last piece of the puzzle was ordered today, don't ask what, as I will only divulge that information if the testing is a successful venture.

Christmas is 3 days away, so, Merry Christmas to all! and a Happy New Year as well! Ry

 

[4Ryan6]

Today, December 29th 2014 is finally here, the Peltier/TEC chilled water cooling system has reached a 2 year in operation mark in it's history!

The only failure so far was a 30a 12v automotive switch I bought from a local auto parts store, (Made in China!).

 

[Motopsychojdn]

[No message]

 

[Memhorder]

Congratulations! Solid.

 

[4Ryan6]

Thanks Guys!

 

[Memhorder]

Ok Christmas is over. I can now funnel funds back into fun projects. This one caught my eye awhile ago but I had to think of how it was going to be approached. First off. I live in the country so there is some dirty naughty power around here. Every time it rains hard or storm the power fluctuates or Browns out. That being said A Uninterrupted Power Supply has become one of my priority's. I thought it would be amusing to have a Power hungry Machine to keep cool (Also I don't pay for power It's by no means power efficient except power supply. Anyway that has bit me in the ass for choosing a UPS. Now I'd have the load of a TEC/P on it. This machine is pulling (And I'm guessing) Around 500-550w under load.

Ryan. You said somewhere your TEC/P setup was pulling 277w ? Don't quote me. So my approx guess for UPS which comes first would support around 900-1000 watts.

Also. I'm gonna try a cheap route to achieving some of this. I was thinking of buying a pair of these just to burn up ans see how that goes so cheap.

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0085H925O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28EQG1I9FXSF5&coliid=I3KSJVS4MKB0U9

You think these guys have what it takes? If not then there's this

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EQ1X5EC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28EQG1I9FXSF5&coliid=I3NLUXUWHG675Q

I wanted to sandwich the tec with this

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GYVJL6I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28EQG1I9FXSF5&coliid=IVCAJ9Q11OQAJ

And the Hyper 212 EVO.
The pump will suck water from tank directly to CPU then to the TEC and finally to TANK. Also that toggle switch. It's probably a good idea for the TEC right? Even though it failed it's good? I also notice or maybe blind and forgetful that your not controlling the voltage on the TEC. You just plug it in directly to the power supply? Through the switch of course
Water pump

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=14480AC9207&vpn=MCP655&manufacture=SWIFTECH

Power Supply

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_442&item_id=063157

CPU Water block

http://www.amazon.ca/XSPC-Raystorm-CPU-Block-Socket/dp/B005T19CO0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420665067&sr=8-5&keywords=xspc

Still a little unsure of the water block. I want it to look as good as the Corsair one
Water Tank will be PVC like yours.

Glad you never closed this thread and thanks for starting it. Good place to start if any.

 

[4Ryan6]

@Memhorder

I will only comment on what I know and have tested, and see blatantly wrong that will be a problem for you.

The 2 peltiers you're considering a possible sandwich have you paid any attention to their size vs the size of the aluminum water block?

IMO an aluminum cold collection block is a bad idea, because aluminum and copper do not play well together, you'll be forced to use a coolant with various metal protection, like auto anti-freeze.

Auto anti-freeze is great for cooling cars and trucks but sucks cooling CPU water blocks it is not a coolant designed to cool CPU water blocks.

I honestly do not know if a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO can handle cooling a peltier, you'll have to test that yourself?

But I know this will work!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ther...remium-heatpipe-cooler-for-intel-lga1366.html

Can you buy from Performance-PCs? You cannot beat their prices right now!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-cpu-apu-waterblock-amd.html

 

[Memhorder]

Yeah those 100 watters will fit on the block. Blocks a littler bigger, haven't considered the effects of mixing metals.

Wow that is cheap. I'll look into that. Just I have a hard time getting places to ship to post office box.

Yeah that block is kinda flimsey. What about these?

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LO5NE5S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28EQG1I9FXSF5&coliid=I3PTWIXRXEY43Q

Again Aluminum and copper

 

[faye__kane]

memhorder:
(I'm not clear on whether you plan to do up two TECs, but this holds for one, too.)

If you were planning on putting two 277-watt TECs through a UPS along with your PC, you'll pay a FORTUNE for the UPS! You can save big money by not running the TECs through it. The TECs don't care about conditioned power. Intermittent brownouts (i.e. low voltage for a few seconds) don't matter.

To save more money, don't put your monitor or speaker amp on the UPS either. As long as they're on a good surge protector, everything else can tolerate brownouts (though your screen might go off for a moment).

Get a 12v electronics bench or lab ps (not a PC ps which is more expensive and you don't need the 5v or 3v). It has to be relatively hi-amp (i.e. device chargers won't work). Plug it into the same place as you do the UPS.

=============

Also, I think someone in this thread abandoned a project because he was worried about insulating the MB. Presumably he thought it was either a hassle or expensive. It is neither!

It is fast and VERY EASY. Just electrical-tape cover the slots, heatsinks, pin headers, and VRMs; then spray cheap silicone rubber on the whole thing (back of the MB too). Then, bang, a waterproof MB! The whole process takes 5 minutes.

After assembling your system, the last thing before you power on for the first time, seal the extra cold stuff (CPU and waterblock) in 1/4 " of cheap, clear silicone sealant. The surface will not even get cold, much less condense.

Also put 1/4" of silicone on the bottom of the board, under the CPU mount. Use a plastic backplate rather than a metal one, or you'll be spreading out your cold all over the underneath! I found that out the hard way.

I've done this with two boards and have had absolutely no problem. In particular, I have had no problem from the acetic acid released by the silicone as it cures. It just evaporates into the air.

My point here is that 1) you don't have to buy extreeeeemely expensive electronic sealant and 2) it isn't a lot of trouble. I decided to waterproof every MB I install (like for friends) if it has liquid cooling, because it's so protective and so easy.

--faye kane ♀ girl brain

 

[Memhorder]

Hi Faye.

No I think I'm just going to do the single TEC loop with the 62mm 253 Watt. Those 15$ for 2 100 watt ones though I might just get to see how they burn up for fun or maybe one of them at least. Maybe film it IDK

So you think it's not feasable to put the TEC setup and computer on UPS?
I was thinking this one.

http://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-BRG1500AVRLCD-1500VA-Outlets-GENERATION/dp/B00LEFYISA/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420689061&sr=1-12&keywords=ups+battery+backup+1000

I'm thinking it will handle the load of the 2 plus monitor for a few minutes. I'm just not sure it would be good to have the CPU cooler down while say heavy tasks are Running if brown out occurs.

Hey Faye? Have you ever done a Graphic card with that sealant procedure? Will the CPU Waterblock start sweating?

 

[4Ryan6]

memhorder:
(I'm not clear on whether you plan to do up two TECs, but this holds for one, too.)

If you were planning on putting two 277-watt TECs through a UPS along with your PC, you'll pay a FORTUNE for the UPS! You can save big money by not running the TECs through it. The TECs don't care about conditioned power. Intermittent brownouts (i.e. low voltage for a few seconds) don't matter.

To save more money, don't put your monitor or speaker amp on the UPS either. As long as they're on a good surge protector, everything else can tolerate brownouts (though your screen might go off for a moment).

Get a 12v electronics bench or lab ps (not a PC ps which is more expensive and you don't need the 5v or 3v). It has to be relatively hi-amp (i.e. device chargers won't work). Plug it into the same place as you do the UPS.

Hi Faye, Welcome back to the thread!

I agree absolutely run the peltiers independently of the UPS, except I do run my monitor along with my main computer, so I can see to properly shut down, if I'm in a situation I need to shut down the machine, as I do not use the auto shut down UPS feature.

 

[4Ryan6]

Also, I think someone in this thread abandoned a project because he was worried about insulating the MB. Presumably he thought it was either a hassle or expensive. It is neither!

It is fast and VERY EASY. Just electrical-tape cover the slots, heatsinks, pin headers, and VRMs; then spray cheap silicone rubber on the whole thing (back of the MB too). Then, bang, a waterproof MB! The whole process takes 5 minutes.

After assembling your system, the last thing before you power on for the first time, seal the extra cold stuff (CPU and waterblock) in 1/4 " of cheap, clear silicone sealant. The surface will not even get cold, much less condense.

Also put 1/4" of silicone on the bottom of the board, under the CPU mount. Use a plastic backplate rather than a metal one, or you'll be spreading out your cold all over the underneath! I found that out the hard way.

I've done this with two boards and have had absolutely no problem. In particular, I have had no problem from the acetic acid released by the silicone as it cures. It just evaporates into the air.

My point here is that 1) you don't have to buy extreeeeemely expensive electronic sealant and 2) it isn't a lot of trouble. I decided to waterproof every MB I install (like for friends) if it has liquid cooling, because it's so protective and so easy.

For the setup this thread covers insulating the motherboard is not required, as long as it is operated below ambient but above the dew point, and it has been in operation over two years with zero water damage problems.

However that is as long as it is operated above the dew point, because it is more than capable of going below that.

If the operational intentions of this chilled water cooling are to go below the dew point where condensation forms, then insulating the motherboard is not only a good idea but necessary.

Going below zero will also require running some type of anti-freeze coolant.

 

[4Ryan6]

Yeah those 100 watters will fit on the block. Blocks a littler bigger, haven't considered the effects of mixing metals.

Wow that is cheap. I'll look into that. Just I have a hard time getting places to ship to post office box.

Yeah that block is kinda flimsey. What about these?

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LO5NE5S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28EQG1I9FXSF5&coliid=I3PTWIXRXEY43Q

Again Aluminum and copper

The thread covers CPU water block modification for the cold side pickup.

The type of water block you're looking at may or may not work I don't know, reason being you cannot see inside the water block itself?

If you are determined to go with that type of water block at least choose an all copper block large enough to fully cover the peltier, and know whats under the hood, meaning how it is flow channeled inside.

http://customthermoelectric.com/Water_blocks.html

And the water block you linked it is an aluminum/copper water block.

 

[Memhorder]

Alright. Thank you. I didn't think you had to insulate Motherboard. Interesting to read how you've done it though. Not sure I'll be doing it just yet.

That aluminum block says it's an M so I'm assuming M channel. Can kinda see it too if you look at the holes they drilled into the side of it. Also that block is 8mm tubing. Anyway. Think I might have to go for a better block if I can find one.

Has anyone tried to manipulate temperature using Pump speed?

That swiftec pump has variable speed control. I'm thinking I could make the water colder or warmer by raising and lowering speed.

 

[Motopsychojdn]

I'd say the degree of temp control through flowrates would be negligible and difficult to control to any level of accuracy tbh, flow is important obviously but its not something I'd consider as a method of temp control, too slow and it heats up, too fast and it doesnt pick up the heat efficiently enough
Moto

 

[Motopsychojdn]

Another idea to throw in the pot as it were, your block, http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LO5NE5S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28EQG1I9FXSF5&coliid=I3PTWIXRXEY43Q
You could line the aluminium part with a yacht varnish or similar to keep the aluminium from contacting the water, I have an aluminium fire extinguisher for a reservoir and I sealed it similarly, no corrosion problems so it works
I'd prefer all copper block really though if you can afford it but if they're cheap blocks to grind out for Tec cooling its an option
Moto