TECH: Qbert...is switcher an option?

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hey all,

I just picked up a decent dedicated Qbert project with all matching
numbers. My problem lies in the fact that the original power supply was
hacked up pretty badly. The two 2200uf, 75volt caps were replaced with
one 4700uf, 50volt cap (one is not there at all). Also the resistor at
R14 (12ohm, 2watt) was replaced with a mass of 3 resistors of unknown
value, basically soldered in parallel and put on the board. These
started to smoke when I tried to power it up.

Problem is that I can't find these parts anywhere. Bob Roberts doesn't
have them and I can't find them on Mouser....

Would a switcher be more reliable on this machine? I can always mount it
on the door and one day when I get the parts to fix the original, I can
just replace it. Has anyone made this change successfully? Would I need
the 30 volt circuit to run the sound board and knocker...and if I do, do
I need these components for that?

Finally, where can I get the Dallas DS1220AB SRAM?...I removed the
battery and want to do the Jrok save mod...

Thanks in advance for any help...you can email me directly if you want,
just remove the DONTWANTSPAM. Now back to the archives for more
research.....

Jeff

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

> I just picked up a decent dedicated Qbert project with all matching
> numbers. My problem lies in the fact that the original power supply was
> hacked up pretty badly. The two 2200uf, 75volt caps were replaced with one
> 4700uf, 50volt cap (one is not there at all). Also the resistor at R14
> (12ohm, 2watt) was replaced with a mass of 3 resistors of unknown value,
> basically soldered in parallel and put on the board. These started to
> smoke when I tried to power it up.
>
> Problem is that I can't find these parts anywhere. Bob Roberts doesn't
> have them and I can't find them on Mouser....
>

They were hard to track down. I bought enough for about 10 rebuild kits.
I'll sell you one at cost if you want one.


> Would a switcher be more reliable on this machine? I can always mount it
> on the door and one day when I get the parts to fix the original, I can
> just replace it. Has anyone made this change successfully? Would I need
> the 30 volt circuit to run the sound board and knocker...and if I do, do I
> need these components for that?
>

Yes you need the 30v for sound and knocker You will need the 2200uf caps
for the +30. R14 is in the +5 circuit I believe. There isn't much to the
power supply, I'd just try to shotgun it with a rebuild kit and see how that
goes.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

You'll need the original PS board for the +30 volts. A switcher wont
provide that.

Mark

"matt" <gamefixer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4rmdnRQRtsZ9qv7fRVn-rg@starstream.net...
> That 4700 @ 50 volts cap should be fine so long as its wired in correctly.
> Were the 2200's in parallel? I'd put a switcher into the cab and use the
> +5 only from it. That way the old supply wont have much work to do and you
> wont have to worry about it frying again.
>
> --
> Matt
> M and M Electronics
> 6661 Stanford Ranch Road
> Suite F, PMB 105
> Rocklin, Ca 95677
> 916-275-5871
> "Chuk" <chuk@ourcade.com> wrote in message
> news:1113793667.3468556ed2d3de03726779d606fd52b5@teranews...
>>> I just picked up a decent dedicated Qbert project with all matching
>>> numbers. My problem lies in the fact that the original power supply was
>>> hacked up pretty badly. The two 2200uf, 75volt caps were replaced with
>>> one 4700uf, 50volt cap (one is not there at all). Also the resistor at
>>> R14 (12ohm, 2watt) was replaced with a mass of 3 resistors of unknown
>>> value, basically soldered in parallel and put on the board. These
>>> started to smoke when I tried to power it up.
>>>
>>> Problem is that I can't find these parts anywhere. Bob Roberts doesn't
>>> have them and I can't find them on Mouser....
>>>
>>
>> They were hard to track down. I bought enough for about 10 rebuild kits.
>> I'll sell you one at cost if you want one.
>>
>>
>>> Would a switcher be more reliable on this machine? I can always mount it
>>> on the door and one day when I get the parts to fix the original, I can
>>> just replace it. Has anyone made this change successfully? Would I need
>>> the 30 volt circuit to run the sound board and knocker...and if I do, do
>>> I need these components for that?
>>>
>>
>> Yes you need the 30v for sound and knocker You will need the 2200uf caps
>> for the +30. R14 is in the +5 circuit I believe. There isn't much to
>> the power supply, I'd just try to shotgun it with a rebuild kit and see
>> how that goes.
>>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

A standard "coin-op" switcher does not have 30V, but you can buy switching
supplies for just about any voltage. I have an adjustable 24V supply that when
cranked up produces around 28V, which is more than enough for Q*bert sound.
I picked it up for someone (Rob C?) just for that purpose, but he apparently
didn't need it. First person to respond can have it for $10.

Matt

"Mark Hooks" <markhooks@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:8uP8e.11688$44.5525@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> You'll need the original PS board for the +30 volts. A switcher wont provide that.
>
> Mark

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

28V switcher is gone.

Matt

"Matt Osborn" <osborn@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message news:1113845850.600211@hqnntp01.autodesk.com...
>A standard "coin-op" switcher does not have 30V, but you can buy switching
> supplies for just about any voltage. I have an adjustable 24V supply that when
> cranked up produces around 28V, which is more than enough for Q*bert sound.
> I picked it up for someone (Rob C?) just for that purpose, but he apparently
> didn't need it. First person to respond can have it for $10.
>
> Matt
>
> "Mark Hooks" <markhooks@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:8uP8e.11688$44.5525@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>> You'll need the original PS board for the +30 volts. A switcher wont provide that.
>>
>> Mark
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Thanks everyone, for all your help. I think once I get the parts for a
PS rebuild (Chuk, you have mail), I'll opt at putting a switcher in for
the 5 volt section...

Where can I get those dallas SRAMS at?
Jeff

Chuk wrote:
>>I just picked up a decent dedicated Qbert project with all matching
>>numbers. My problem lies in the fact that the original power supply was
>>hacked up pretty badly. The two 2200uf, 75volt caps were replaced with one
>>4700uf, 50volt cap (one is not there at all). Also the resistor at R14
>>(12ohm, 2watt) was replaced with a mass of 3 resistors of unknown value,
>>basically soldered in parallel and put on the board. These started to
>>smoke when I tried to power it up.
>>
>>Problem is that I can't find these parts anywhere. Bob Roberts doesn't
>>have them and I can't find them on Mouser....
>>
>
>
> They were hard to track down. I bought enough for about 10 rebuild kits.
> I'll sell you one at cost if you want one.
>
>
>
>>Would a switcher be more reliable on this machine? I can always mount it
>>on the door and one day when I get the parts to fix the original, I can
>>just replace it. Has anyone made this change successfully? Would I need
>>the 30 volt circuit to run the sound board and knocker...and if I do, do I
>>need these components for that?
>>
>
>
> Yes you need the 30v for sound and knocker You will need the 2200uf caps
> for the +30. R14 is in the +5 circuit I believe. There isn't much to the
> power supply, I'd just try to shotgun it with a rebuild kit and see how that
> goes.
>
>