Question Upgrading old pc

You can buy OEM keys of Windows pretty cheap, usually under 30 USD. 100 bucks for an OEM key is a rip off. You can also simply run Windows 10 without a CD key and besides some personalization restrictions and a water mark it will 100% work just fine.

Your 750ti is going to be a major bottleneck in performance, so you might want to consider upgrading to a 1650 or 1660 Super.
 
That would be a solid upgrade. But like stated above that 750ti will slow you down alot. Especially if this is for gaming. If not gaming itll probably be fine.

I also wouldn't buy that monitor, u less you already have it. 300+ for a 60hz/1080 monitor is outrageous. You could get a much nicer monitor for 150-200.

Windows will usually let you reuse a key, if you register to a Microsoft account first.
 

King_V

Distinguished
The 12nm version of the R5 1600 is available again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XTQZJ28

It is basically a slightly downclocked 2600. For a $35 savings, you're losing something like 4% performance at worst.


DO NOT use that green-label CX power supply. You're lucky it hasn't already caused you problems, and you most certainly SHOULD NOT use it on your new components! I cannot emphasize this enough!

This is a FAR better PSU:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDH48d/corsair-txm-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020133-na
 
Feb 15, 2020
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That would be a solid upgrade. But like stated above that 750ti will slow you down alot. Especially if this is for gaming. If not gaming itll probably be fine.

I also wouldn't buy that monitor, u less you already have it. 300+ for a 60hz/1080 monitor is outrageous. You could get a much nicer monitor for 150-200.

Windows will usually let you reuse a key, if you register to a Microsoft account first.
Thank you for the reply, yeah I already new the 750 is going to be my weak point after this upgrade , I was just wondering about the windows issue because I literally just did a fresh install of windows 10 like a month ago off my windows disk. Was just hopeing that that wasn't going to no be a waste basically.
 
Feb 15, 2020
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The 12nm version of the R5 1600 is available again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XTQZJ28

It is basically a slightly downclocked 2600. For a $35 savings, you're losing something like 4% performance at worst.


DO NOT use that green-label CX power supply. You're lucky it hasn't already caused you problems, and you most certainly SHOULD NOT use it on your new components! I cannot emphasize this enough!

This is a FAR better PSU:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDH48d/corsair-txm-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020133-na
Thanks for the info on the power supply, the only reason I have this one is because I got it free off my brother for my first build. What is wrong with the green label one just out of curiosity?
 

Chase Clouser

Honorable
Aug 11, 2014
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DO NOT use that green-label CX power supply. You're lucky it hasn't already caused you problems, and you most certainly SHOULD NOT use it on your new components! I cannot emphasize this enough!

This is a FAR better PSU:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDH48d/corsair-txm-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020133-na
[/QUOTE]

See the whole reasoning i am looking to upgrade anyways, or the excuse im telling myself, is that my pc keeps getting to hot. Or at least thats what i think its doing, but when im doing normal comptuer things itll sometimes just shutoff, but if im playing a game it will 100% shut off at some point. but now you have me thinking it could just be my power supply.
 

King_V

Distinguished
That the green label CX is still working and hasn't caused a problem is nothing short of a miracle.

From the first link my my sig, under the Corsair section:
The orange and black label VS models and the green and black label CX models should be avoided. Completely. Currently we just cannot justify using one of these units. The track record is terrible and if you have one, especially if it is more than a year old, it is probably either already failing or if you are having problems, is likely the reason why. If you don't already have one, avoid them.

The black and gray label VS series units are much better than the older orange and black label VS models, but they are still units you really only want to use with basic use office or internet browsing machines, or in a pinch, maybe a machine with a lower TDP slot powered card. Also, they are not a modern design, having an older group regulated platform which you can find plenty of in depth information about if you do a search for "group regulated power supplies". These are better than any of the units down below in the wall of shame list, and better than the older VS and CX units, but don't assume you that you can simply pair a graphics card that has a 550w recommendation with a 550w VS unit and not have any problems, because in all probability, you will. These units are not meant for use with high demand gaming systems. In a PINCH, for VERY short term use, they will work, but they are not going to last under the rigors of daily gaming loads.

The CXm units are fair. They are "ok" for the price and if the price is right you could do worse. The non-green label "2017" CX models are slightly better than the CXm units. For a budget entry level unit, they are fairly decent. They are not great or fantastic, but they ARE ok, if this is ALL you can possibly afford. Don't buy one of these expecting it to last as long as an RMx or EVGA G2 unit though. It's not going to. It's a good entry level offering and that is all.

The Vengeance models are a small step up from the 2017 CX units.

Aside from that, any of the TX, RM, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from good to best, with the best of these Corsair models being the AX and AXi units.
 

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