So whenever I turn it on it runs for a few seconds before turning off then doing the process again. It shows no error on my PC monitor so possibly a hardware problem
Without any additional info (full system specs including PSU make & model (or part number) and what you did before that issue appeared), what you're looking towards is either dead: CPU, dead MoBo, dead RAM, dead GPU or all of them dead.
Corsair CXm series PSU, at best, is mediocre quality PSU and your PC randomly shutting down during gameplay is obvious sign of PSU not being able to power your PC during heavy load.
Here, my best guess is that your PSU eventually failed completely and fried something else as well. MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU starts acting up but PSUs have "magical" ability to fry everything they are connected to. The lower the PSU's build quality - the higher of a chance it frying something else as well.
So, bare minimum what you're looking towards is new PSU. This time, don't cheap out on PSU, instead buy a good quality unit since PSU is the most important component inside the PC. For your PC, any Seasonic PSU in 500W range will do fine, e.g: Focus 550, Focus+ 550, PRIME Ultra 550 Gold or PRIME Ultra 550 Platinum,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/bkp323,9nmxFT,KmgzK8,XndxFT/
Warranty wise:
CXm: 5 years
Focus: 7 years
Focus+: 10 years
PRIME: 12 years (includes all PRIME models: regular, Fanless, AirTouch, SnowSilent, Ultra)
All 3 of my PCs: Skylake, Haswell and AMD are also powered by Seasonic. Full specs with pics in my sig.
Note: getting new PSU alone doesn't fix your system. What new PSU does, is preventing any replacement components also from frying.
To know if your CPU, MoBo, RAM and GPU also survived, you need 2nd, compatible system in where to test out your components. As far as what might be dead, i'd suspect MoBo and/or RAM (since you had RAM errors and removing one stick fixed it for a while, suggesting one stick got damaged already).
Hey forgot to write this but my brother fixed my PC by changing ram sticks around and it worked again then a week or 2 later it crashes I just assume it's nothing but then couple more weeks later I'm having the same problemCorsair CXm series PSU, at best, is mediocre quality PSU and your PC randomly shutting down during gameplay is obvious sign of PSU not being able to power your PC during heavy load.
Here, my best guess is that your PSU eventually failed completely and fried something else as well. MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU starts acting up but PSUs have "magical" ability to fry everything they are connected to. The lower the PSU's build quality - the higher of a chance it frying something else as well.
So, bare minimum what you're looking towards is new PSU. This time, don't cheap out on PSU, instead buy a good quality unit since PSU is the most important component inside the PC. For your PC, any Seasonic PSU in 500W range will do fine, e.g: Focus 550, Focus+ 550, PRIME Ultra 550 Gold or PRIME Ultra 550 Platinum,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/bkp323,9nmxFT,KmgzK8,XndxFT/
Warranty wise:
CXm: 5 years
Focus: 7 years
Focus+: 10 years
PRIME: 12 years (includes all PRIME models: regular, Fanless, AirTouch, SnowSilent, Ultra)
All 3 of my PCs: Skylake, Haswell and AMD are also powered by Seasonic. Full specs with pics in my sig.
Note: getting new PSU alone doesn't fix your system. What new PSU does, is preventing any replacement components also from frying.
To know if your CPU, MoBo, RAM and GPU also survived, you need 2nd, compatible system in where to test out your components. As far as what might be dead, i'd suspect MoBo and/or RAM (since you had RAM errors and removing one stick fixed it for a while, suggesting one stick got damaged already).
Could audit events have been dropped to 0 be the problem. I also forgot to mention I'm using windows 10 but it's not activated and I have no virus protection so. It could be something to do with that I'm not sureIf the RAM switching helped then issue is within RAM. Here, replace the RAM with new one to get rid of the problem for good.
Ok all buy some new ram and keep you updated once I doAudit is another term for notification and it does play 0 role on how PC operates.
E.g:
Successful log-in security audit = user has successfully logged into Win.
Failed log-in security audit = user has entered wrong password in Win log-in screen.
If your PC would be infected with malware, it wouldn't be completely nonoperational every two weeks, especially when changing RAM around to get it working again.
New RAM can come as cheap as $62 (3000 Mhz, 2x 8GB),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DH...-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-memory-tlgd416g3000hc16cdc01
Hey I'm back. The reason I haven't wrote back is because I thought I had fix the problem by USB resesting my PC but the problem is back. I made a video so you can seeAudit is another term for notification and it does play 0 role on how PC operates.
E.g:
Successful log-in security audit = user has successfully logged into Win.
Failed log-in security audit = user has entered wrong password in Win log-in screen.
If your PC would be infected with malware, it wouldn't be completely nonoperational every two weeks, especially when changing RAM around to get it working again.
New RAM can come as cheap as $62 (3000 Mhz, 2x 8GB),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DH...-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-memory-tlgd416g3000hc16cdc01
It boots into windows. I fixed it by moving the ram to the outer slots but it rebooted not crashed while playing gta 5. I will test less intense games I will also test both ram sticks and will move gpu.Why you have your GPU on the bottom PCI-E slot and not in the upper one?
Besides choking GPUs airflow (since it's facing PSU shroud), upper PCI-E slot has PCI-E lanes taken directly from CPU, while other PCI-E slots take their PCI-E lanes from MoBo chipset and they are also shared with other components (e.g SATA drives).
Move your GPU to the upper PCI-E x16 slot and look if you can get image to your monitor.
One of my ram sticks doesn't work by itself in 3 of the slots but works in the 4th one and the other one works in all of them I'm about to them in the proper slots againTest your ram with memtest86.
Download it to a usb stick and boot from that.
You should be able to complete a full pass with NO errors.
Ryzen seems to have many ram issues. Often tthey are fixed with a motherboard bios update.
it is 2 separate sticksRyzen is tightly tied to ram, unlike intel.
If you are going to use just one ram stick, place it in the slot required by your motherboard manual.
What is the make/model of your ram?
Did it come in a 2 stick matched kit, or is it two separate sticks?
Ram must be matched to operate properly.
Even two sticks of the same part number can cause a mismatch.
CPU-Z SPD tab will identify the ram and part number installed.
Look for the bios level of your motherboard.
The bios display will tell you.
CPU-Z will also give you the bios level.
If it is not current, look to see if the updates seem to address ram compatibility issues.
OK do I was able to play just fine with both ramsticks in for 3 days then it just crashes out of nowhereRyzen is tightly tied to ram, unlike intel.
If you are going to use just one ram stick, place it in the slot required by your motherboard manual.
What is the make/model of your ram?
Did it come in a 2 stick matched kit, or is it two separate sticks?
Ram must be matched to operate properly.
Even two sticks of the same part number can cause a mismatch.
CPU-Z SPD tab will identify the ram and part number installed.
Look for the bios level of your motherboard.
The bios display will tell you.
CPU-Z will also give you the bios level.
If it is not current, look to see if the updates seem to address ram compatibility issues.
I'm seeing if it is my head phones cause it to crash because sometimes when it crashes it made strange sounds through them and I've had issues in the past with them. Once or if it crashes I will turn up the voltage. It may take along time or not at all but until then my headphones are probably the problemIn the bios, see if you can't increase the ram voltage a bit past the default 1.2v.
Try 1.25. You can usually go as high as 1.35v
Sometimes, that can correct minor incompatibilities. I think you are close here.