Question Windows 10 installer from USB loading loop

Jan 17, 2020
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My Specs:
CPU - Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard - Asus Prime B450M-A
GPU - MSI RX 5700 Evoke OC
Ram - G-skill ripjaws 3000mhz 2x8gb
Powersupply - EVGA 600w
Storange - Samsung 860 QVO 1TB SSD
Case - Corsair 100R Atx mid tower case

Hi all, I just built my first gaming PC and I'm having issues installing Windows 10 to my SSD from the bootable USB made by the Windows 10 Creation tool 1909.

It repeats one of three things so far. If I go into BIOS and select the UEFI USB as the first boot it'll load the Asus logo and Windows loading dots but it'll loop for quite a while. (Longest I've waited for is 2hrs). If I use legacy boot then it'll load the Windows logo and either start the loading dots and freeze or restart soon after.

I originally had another motherboard which was the Asus Prime B450-Plus which I succesfully installed Windows 10 on but after installing the latest drivers for Windows and my GPU it kept quickly restarting the PC up until the point where it couldn't enter Windows.

So I replaced that motherboard with another (B450M-A) but the issue still persists. I've tried mutliple USBs and they all seem to fail. A friend said it could be a RAM issue.

Are there any solutions to this?

EDIT: So I went and bought Ram that is compatible with my motherboard and CPU,
G.SKILL F4-2400C16D-16GFXR 16 GB (8 GB x 2) Flare X Series DDR4 2400 MHz PC4-19200 CL16 Dual Channel Memory Kit - Red, and I was able to install windows 10 on my SSD after several
restarts and pc freeze. But when the installer says "Must restart in PC in 10seconds" and restarts itself (I've removed the USB boot at this point so only the SSD remained) and when it loads up, the Windows Logo appears but it either freezes or restarts again which leads me to my original problem.
 
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Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
According to G.Skill, who is the most qualified to know, those sticks are not compatible with that motherboard. In fact, there are ZERO 3000mhz sticks that are compatible. Furthermore, in extensive an extensive number of threads and research I have yet to see any memory kit with odd numbered timings, especially a CL15 kit, that IS compatible with a Ryzen based platform out of the box.

That doesn't mean they CAN'T work with that platform, but it is going to take considerable tweaking and manual configuration to do so most likely and even then there are no guarantees. You are MUCH better off and would be well advised to return those sticks and get a get that shows as compatible according to the G.Skill memory configurator, such as these.

PCPartPicker Part List

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $69.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-18 13:44 EST-0500
 
Jan 17, 2020
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According to G.Skill, who is the most qualified to know, those sticks are not compatible with that motherboard. In fact, there are ZERO 3000mhz sticks that are compatible. Furthermore, in extensive an extensive number of threads and research I have yet to see any memory kit with odd numbered timings, especially a CL15 kit, that IS compatible with a Ryzen based platform out of the box.

That doesn't mean they CAN'T work with that platform, but it is going to take considerable tweaking and manual configuration to do so most likely and even then there are no guarantees. You are MUCH better off and would be well advised to return those sticks and get a get that shows as compatible according to the G.Skill memory configurator, such as these.

PCPartPicker Part List

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $69.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-18 13:44 EST-0500
Ah thank you so much, I used PC partpicker and it didn't list any incompatibilities.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
No problem. For Ryzen, none of the memory manufacturers show any 3000mhz sticks as "compatible". They show either 2933mhz or 3200mhz, or some lower or higher speed kits, but none of them show 3000mhz because Ryzen literally won't run, in almost every case, at 3000mhz. At least not without a great deal of tweaking settings and timings, and usually not then. Lower or higher speeds, much better, so even 3000mhz kits you could manually set to 2933mhz and probably get them to run well enough but honestly for your configuration you'd be much better off with the 3200mhz sticks.
 
Jan 17, 2020
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No problem. For Ryzen, none of the memory manufacturers show any 3000mhz sticks as "compatible". They show either 2933mhz or 3200mhz, or some lower or higher speed kits, but none of them show 3000mhz because Ryzen literally won't run, in almost every case, at 3000mhz. At least not without a great deal of tweaking settings and timings, and usually not then. Lower or higher speeds, much better, so even 3000mhz kits you could manually set to 2933mhz and probably get them to run well enough but honestly for your configuration you'd be much better off with the 3200mhz sticks.
One more query, I have checked Crucials and Corsairs Mobo Ram compatibility list and they list some ram that aren't on the motherboards QVL.
Must I only buy from the QVL?
 
Jan 17, 2020
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Trust the memory manufacturers listings MORE than the motherboard QVL, but the motherboard QVL can be used to supplement it. Where there is conflict, err to the side of the memory manufacturer.
Hi again, sorry to bother you but I have an update regarding my situation.
So I went and bought Ram that is compatible with my motherboard and CPU,
G.SKILL F4-2400C16D-16GFXR 16 GB (8 GB x 2) Flare X Series DDR4 2400 MHz PC4-19200 CL16 Dual Channel Memory Kit - Red, and I was able to install windows 10 on my SSD after several
restarts and pc freeze. But when the installer says "Must restart in PC in 10seconds" and restarts itself (I've removed the USB boot at this point so only the SSD remained) and when it loads up, the Windows Logo appears but it either freezes or restarts again which leads me to my original problem.

Most of this happened before except this time I was able to actually install Windows 10 onto my SSD, although it doesn't want to load at all and either restarts itself or freezes. I've replaced the motherboard before, the ram and tried different USBs/GPUS. Is this issue related to Software or is it my Power Supply thats causing this?
 
Jan 17, 2020
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What is the exact model of your PSU and how long has it been in service?

Have you checked to see if you have the latest motherboard BIOS version? If you do not, I would suggest that you update.
My PSU is the EVGA 100-W1-0600-K3 600W Black power supply unit and I bought it new from morecomputers.com on 31/12/2019 but only used it on and off for about a week. I have the latest BIOS update, which I updated through the Asus flash feature on the BIOS.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I would take it all back apart and bench test it.

The fact is, that is a lousy quality power supply. We see a lot of issues with gaming builds that use the EVGA B1, N1 or W1 PSU models. I'm not sure by any means that's the issue in your case, but it certainly could be. I'd be inclined to think it might be something else BUT I wouldn't overlook the possibility that it could simply be a bad power supply. I'm doubtful but not willing to completely ignore the possibility. Even if it is not the problem, I'd be inclined to say return this and get something better because even if it is not THE problem, that model is A problem regardless.



Bench testing might be a necessity. I'd look for bent pins on the CPU and make absolutely certain that there are not motherboard standoffs installed in the motherboard tray portion of the case that are not used on your micro ATX motherboard. Often cases will come with the standoffs preinstalled OR users will install them all thinking they all need to be there when they don't necessarily. If there are any standoffs installed that don't exactly line up with the mounting holes on your motherboard, then they are likely shorting out the motherboard on the bottom.



If you can borrow a different graphics card, you might want to try that as well just to rule out that this might be an issue with your card.

Also, make sure you have enabled the D.O.C.P profile for the memory in the BIOS.

As well, before doing any of the above, it would be a good idea to make sure you have installed ALL of these:

BIOS version 2006 dated 11-25-2019 (DO NOT trust the automatic utility. Manually VERIFY that you HAVE this version installed)


AMD chipset drivers:

https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b450



Realtek audio chipset driver:


https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/01AUDIO/DRV_Audio_RTK_SZ_RTK_TSD_W10_64_VER6087021_20190611R.zip



Realtek LAN/Ethernet driver:

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/04LAN/DRV_LAN_Realtek_19H1_SZ_TSD_W10_64_VER10355102019_20190801R.zip



It is imperative that you have THESE specific driver versions installed. Install them and see if things improve. Make SURE you have BIOS version 2006 installed.
 
Jan 17, 2020
10
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I would take it all back apart and bench test it.

The fact is, that is a lousy quality power supply. We see a lot of issues with gaming builds that use the EVGA B1, N1 or W1 PSU models. I'm not sure by any means that's the issue in your case, but it certainly could be. I'd be inclined to think it might be something else BUT I wouldn't overlook the possibility that it could simply be a bad power supply. I'm doubtful but not willing to completely ignore the possibility. Even if it is not the problem, I'd be inclined to say return this and get something better because even if it is not THE problem, that model is A problem regardless.



Bench testing might be a necessity. I'd look for bent pins on the CPU and make absolutely certain that there are not motherboard standoffs installed in the motherboard tray portion of the case that are not used on your micro ATX motherboard. Often cases will come with the standoffs preinstalled OR users will install them all thinking they all need to be there when they don't necessarily. If there are any standoffs installed that don't exactly line up with the mounting holes on your motherboard, then they are likely shorting out the motherboard on the bottom.



If you can borrow a different graphics card, you might want to try that as well just to rule out that this might be an issue with your card.

Also, make sure you have enabled the D.O.C.P profile for the memory in the BIOS.

As well, before doing any of the above, it would be a good idea to make sure you have installed ALL of these:

BIOS version 2006 dated 11-25-2019 (DO NOT trust the automatic utility. Manually VERIFY that you HAVE this version installed)


AMD chipset drivers:

https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b450



Realtek audio chipset driver:


https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/01AUDIO/DRV_Audio_RTK_SZ_RTK_TSD_W10_64_VER6087021_20190611R.zip



Realtek LAN/Ethernet driver:

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/04LAN/DRV_LAN_Realtek_19H1_SZ_TSD_W10_64_VER10355102019_20190801R.zip



It is imperative that you have THESE specific driver versions installed. Install them and see if things improve. Make SURE you have BIOS version 2006 installed.
I have removed everything from my case to do some benchtesting with a different PSU and a different graphics card. Still the same issues unfortunately. I still can't use the UEFI boot for my USB despite having fast boot off and replacing the motherboard and the ram. I have put my PSU into my older PC and placed my RX 5700 into it and they both work (althought the graphics card is heavily bottlenecked due to old pc specs). D.O.C.P is enabled too.

I have the latest version of the BIOS but I have to ask how do I install the chipset, audio and LAN/ethernet driver if I can't access Windows.

I am going to check my CPU for any bent pins and try different DIMM slots for my ram soon.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
You can't. But once you CAN access Windows, you'll want to do that right away. If that means using only a single stick of RAM, in ANY slot that will work, then try it. It can't hurt to try although at this point I suspect that it's probably a hardware issue, not a software issue.
 
Jan 17, 2020
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You can't. But once you CAN access Windows, you'll want to do that right away. If that means using only a single stick of RAM, in ANY slot that will work, then try it. It can't hurt to try although at this point I suspect that it's probably a hardware issue, not a software issue.
I've tried every DIMM slot with each ram slot. Same issue. The USB installer (UEFI and Legacy) keeps restarting or freezing no matter what I do. The USB works on my other PC (that has my 600w PSU and RX5700). Both the original motherboard and the replacement are like this. CPU has no damage on it and I haven't installed either MOBO in a case. Both are updated to their latest BIOS. I don't understand what the issue is, even with a ram change and a motherboard change the USB still couldn't install Windows 10 on my SDD despite everything being new. I'm gonna try to downgrade the BIOS and see if that works.

What really annoys me is that my build originally worked the first time I put everything together. It was after I installed Windows Updates, the latest NVIDIA drivers and changed the DOCP for my ram the system kept restarting. And now after a motherboard change and ram change the issue persists.

EDIT: So in one of the many restarts/crashes, I booted the USB through legacy and it BSOD with a code at the bottom: Driver PNP watchdog error. Am googling to see what that means.
Also trying MemTest86 to see if Ram is faulty.
 
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Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Have you tried a DIFFERENT flash drive, or tried it in a different USB port. Some boards don't have full driver support for USB 3.0 installations unless you enable full early driver support in the BIOS first. If it starts the installation though, then that isn't the issue.

Try a different flash drive or a different USB port. Also, try disconnecting ALL storage devices from the motherboard except the target drive for the OS. Try attaching a different drive to install the OS on. A bad drive could cause this issue.

Try a different keyboard and mouse.

Honestly, the MOST likely reason is that terrible W1 power supply and the fact that you tried a different power supply doesn't mean much. In fact, it may not mean ANYTHING, especially if it's even worse than the original one or has a lower capacity.

What is the exact model of the PSU you tried in place of the W1? Chances are good they are both just crappy power supplies.
 
Jan 17, 2020
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Have you tried a DIFFERENT flash drive, or tried it in a different USB port. Some boards don't have full driver support for USB 3.0 installations unless you enable full early driver support in the BIOS first. If it starts the installation though, then that isn't the issue.

Try a different flash drive or a different USB port. Also, try disconnecting ALL storage devices from the motherboard except the target drive for the OS. Try attaching a different drive to install the OS on. A bad drive could cause this issue.

Try a different keyboard and mouse.

Honestly, the MOST likely reason is that terrible W1 power supply and the fact that you tried a different power supply doesn't mean much. In fact, it may not mean ANYTHING, especially if it's even worse than the original one or has a lower capacity.

What is the exact model of the PSU you tried in place of the W1? Chances are good they are both just crappy power supplies.
I've tried three different USBs on both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 slots to no avail. These USBs work on my old PC as I am able to enter the installation screen then repair or install/upgrade windows. I've used and swapped the Samsung 1TB QVO SSD and a Western Digital 2TB HDD as sole target drives for the OS but nothing changed as the USB kept freezing or restarting. The same results when I swapped out the mouse and keyboard with older ones.

The PSU I am using over the W1 is a Corsair VS350 which is powering a Ryzen 5 3600, GT 1030 and 2x8gb 2400mhz ram. There is something that has caught my attention. In the BIOS voltage monitor, the +12V is 12.099 V with tiny changes, the +5 is constantly either 4.959 V or sometimes 4.986 V (never hits 5 V) and the +3.3V is around 3.379 V with tiny changes.

Oh and I've run MemTest86 from a USB on the motherboard and my ram has 0 errors after 4 passes.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
You're trying to run a system with an RX 5700 that needs a VERY GOOD 500w or higher PSU, with a 600w W1 power supply AND a Corsair 350w VS power supply, and you wonder why it isn't working?

Neither of those power supplies is even halfway decent. At all. They are about as poor quality as it gets for a name brand. Plus, one of them is grossly under the required capacity. That PSU should not even be used with this system at all. At all, at all, at all. LOL.

The other one, is sufficient capacity, technically, but those W1 units can never supply their rated wattage and I've seen so many problems, over and over again, with these units, that I don't even know where to start guessing it may be faltering because it could be five different shortcomings. In truth, they are just not good enough for this system.

The problem it would appear you are having is that the system works fine when it is using the most basic, plain Jane graphics drivers. As soon as the full featured card specific drivers try to load into memory and a higher power draw occurs, then the system balks, or freezes, or resets, or whatever it is currently doing and could even include some black screens, because of a lack of power.

You've checked everything else. It is the only answer that makes any sense at all. If it not PSU related, and right now based on WHICH power supplies you are trying to use it is REALLY likely that it is, then you have to have bent pins on the CPU or something along those lines like a CPU cooler that is tweaking the CPU because it is not evenly tightened, or something like that.
 
Jan 17, 2020
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I went and bought a Athlon 200GE and managed to install Windows on my system. It seems that there is something wrong with my CPU (no bent pins) as the Athlon 200GE felt smooth on the BIOS while the Ryzen 5 3600 was lagging in the BIOS and was not able to enter Windows despite it being installed already.

So far the system is working with my 600w PSU and RX 5700 and I'm probably going to send back the CPU for refund/replacement.
 
Feb 13, 2020
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Hey, I just got almost the same problem.
After I updated Windows 10 1903 to 1909, my pc restarted sometimes and was stuck on the dots loading page. And then, I tryed to repair it. But I failed.
I tryed to reinstall windows 10. But failed again.
I installed Ubuntu 19.10, and I got a usable pc.
And then, I created a boot windows 10 boot usb. It always restarted on the loading page.

As your pc, I also used Ryzen 5 3600 and Asus Prime B450M Plus

How is your refund / replacement? I'm waiting for your result.
 

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