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Question 2x SATA -> 8-pin for GTX 1660 Ti ?

Toby_K

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Jan 7, 2022
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Hi, my old GTX 1060 3GB has recently died, and I got a great deal on an almost brand new GTX 1660Ti (for 120 bucks, with still valid warranty...). When I bought my PC, I knew very little about the hardware, that was 4 years ago. The previous 1060 was powered by: MBD->6-pin Pcie->SATA->MOLEX->6-pin Pcie on the GPU. The SATA is also split into two more, in which the SSD and the HDD is plugged. The max TDP for both the cards is 120W.

Only one yellow wire (which I assume is +12V) goes out from the motherboard itself (from a 6-pin), along with 2 ground (black) wires and one 5V red wire. All this was (and is) powering both the drives and the GPU.

Since this is an upgraded HP tower 800 G1, the PSU is OEM, and does't have any GPU outputs by default. Currently, the new 1660Ti is being wired up like this: MBD->6-pin Pcie on the MBD->SATA->MOLEX->8-pin. I bought a MOLEX to 8-pin adaptor, but there are 2 molexes and just one is connected as of now, which means there's only 3/8 pins really connected into the GPU, which seems to be running just fine.

The max Pcie slot output on the MBD is 75W, but under load, out of 120W the 8-pin supplies around 90W and the rest is via Pcie slot. (the SATA and molex are HEAVILY overloaded, and all of it goes from a single 6-pin on the MBD.)

Now, I ordered a 1 MOLEX->2 MOLEX adaptor, which I wanna put inbetween the GPU and the SATA->MOLEX cable, to have all 8 pins on the GPU utilised, so the wattage will be split inbetween all +12V pins, instead of one (that's how it's now).
The second idea was to buy a 1 SATA->2 SATA, which will power the drives, and I will buy a 2SATA->8-pin which will power the GPU.

Schematic 1 is the current wiring; schematic 2 is how I'll wire it later today once the reduction gets delivered; schematic 3 is the idea with the SATA->8-pin reduction. All the color and wires are 1:1 how it is (going to be) in real life. I'll also add pics of my PC and the current wiring.

The question is: is using 2x SATA -> 8-pin (schematic 3) better than the current setup? And until I set it up that way, is using 1 molex->2 molex->8-pin (schematic 2) better than what I have now (schematic 1)?

Thanks so much for help, everything is really appreciated.

Pictures:
 

STOP


Given a proper PSU, there is no need for all this adapter and assuming nonsense.

So....what specific PSU do you have?
It's an OEM PSU (320W) in an HP 800 G1 tower, unfortunately, a PSU upgrade would be really hard because the motherboard doesn't have a 24-pin, but different specific HP OEM connectors...

edit: there's an adaptor sold on Amazon, for 24-pin to HP MBD weird pins, but it would supposedly take a month to deliver and will also cost me 28 bucks.
 
It's an OEM PSU (320W) in an HP 800 G1 tower, unfortunately, a PSU upgrade would be really hard because the motherboard doesn't have a 24-pin, but different specific HP OEM connectors...
As suspected.

Given that....your system is not really viable for a good GPU.
It is basically a low to average quality office level PC.

The PSU lacks the proper connections.

And for a 1660 ti, the minimum recommended PSU is a (good quality) 450 watt.
And not proprietary HP, but with regular ATX connections.

Going down this road brings a significant chance of releasing the magic smoke.
 
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As suspected.

Given that....your system is not really viable for a good GPU.
It is basically a low to average quality office level PC.

The PSU lacks the proper connections.

And for a 1660 ti, the minimum recommended PSU is a (good quality) 450 watt.
And not proprietary HP, but with regular ATX connections.

Going down this road brings a significant chance of releasing the magic smoke.
Yea, unfortunately, when I bought it, I didn't know what I was going into, but looking back at it, the GTX 1060 did draw around 90W max from the SATA->Molex->6Pin aswell, assuming it behaved the same like the 1660Ti. Worked like that for 3 years minimum.
Getting a new PSU and the reduction alongside it seems like the best option at the moment.

But until I decide to spend some money on that, is using two satas a more viable option than using just one? And is using all 8 pins better than using just those 3? (Talking about the 1Molex -> 2Molex, schematic 2.)?

On the other hand, if I decide to use two SATAs to power up the 8-pin, the SATA setup is wired up in series, so the first SATA would still get a full blast... You can see the wiring in the photos as well.
 
Yea, unfortunately, when I bought it, I didn't know what I was going into, but looking back at it, the GTX 1060 did draw around 90W max from the SATA->Molex->6Pin aswell, assuming it behaved the same like the 1660Ti. Worked like that for 3 years minimum.
Getting a new PSU and the reduction alongside it seems like the best option at the moment.

But until I decide to spend some money on that, is using two satas a more viable option than using just one? And is using all 8 pins better than using just those 3? (Talking about the 1Molex -> 2Molex, schematic 2.)?

On the other hand, if I decide to use two SATAs to power up the 8-pin, the SATA setup is wired up in series, so the first SATA would still get a full blast... You can see the wiring in the photos as well.
Personally, I would not try to Frankenstein this thing.
At all.

Drop back and punt, with a whole new PC.
Seriously.

You're trying to draw gaming PC performance out of a low end office system.

What CPU is in this?
 
Personally, I would not try to Frankenstein this thing.
At all.

Drop back and punt, with a whole new PC.
Seriously.

You're trying to draw gaming PC performance out of a low end office system.

What CPU is in this?
I5-4570, 16GB DDR3 RAM, new HDD and SSD. Overall, the gaming performance is good enough for me, I am able to play all the games I’m playing at ultra setting with decent framerate.

I know that frankensteining it is not the best option, but since I’m on a budget (need a new car, saving up), I need a more of a temporary solution, and I really need to know about the 2 SATA and the 2-Molex-instead-of-one things.

Thanks so much
 
I5-4570, 16GB DDR3 RAM. Overall, the gaming performance is good enough for me, I am able to play all the games I’m playing at ultra setting with decent framerate.

I know that frankensteining it is not the best option, but since I’m on a budget (need a new car, saving up), I need a more of a temporary solution, and I really need to know about the 2 SATA and the 2-Molex-instead-of-one things.

Thanks so much
Put the 1660ti in a box on the shelf.

Leave it until such time as you can build up a whole new PC.

No matter what connections you try to finagle, that PSU is underpowered for this GPU.
 
Put the 1660ti in a box on the shelf.

Leave it until such time as you can build up a whole new PC.

No matter what connections you try to finagle, that PSU is underpowered for this GPU.
I was thinking that I sell the skeleton of this, keep the Drives and the GPU, and buy a pre-owned MBD+CPU+RAM setup, something with 7th gen intel or newer. And get the rest new, of course.

Until then tho, I will decrease the max voltage in MSI afterburner, plug in the double Molex and pray I don’t end up with a house fire.
Please, all things apart, until I buy a better setup, what’s the best answer for the question posed above about the double SATA?

Sorry if this is starting to be a bit irritating.
Thanks sm.
 
No guarantee but how about this? Looks like that may allow the op to upgrade the power supply?



Any opinions as I’ve not used one of these. So I make no guarantees if you use something like this that it won’t blow your card along with the rest of the pc sky high.
I was looking at this exact one earlier today, even saw some videos of people upgrading this exact PC with the help of this cable. Still, I’ve already invested a lot of cash in a lot of crap, see my PC 😀d

Getting a new one is probably really a lot better…
 
I was thinking that I sell the skeleton of this, keep the Drives and the GPU, and buy a pre-owned MBD+CPU+RAM setup, something with 7th gen intel or newer. And get the rest new, of course.

Until then tho, I will decrease the max voltage in MSI afterburner, plug in the double Molex and pray I don’t end up with a house fire.
Please, all things apart, until I buy a better setup, what’s the best answer for the question posed above about the double SATA?

Sorry if this is starting to be a bit irritating.
Thanks sm.
The bones of that thing will sell for maybe $50 (US), and only to a local buyer.
 
You asked for advice...
Consider listening to it.
I am a bit stubborn, sorry for that…

I’ll buy a new one, keep the GPU and the HDD drive and get rid of the rest. For 270$, I can get a i7-6700K + decent MBD + 16GB DDR4 RAM combo, the rest will be 200 more bucks and I’ll be good to go
 
Do you have a microcenter nearby? They’ve got a nice combo for 129 bucks with a ryzen 5 3600 and a b450 board.


A 16gb ram kit runs about 40 bucks


You should be able to find a case for about 50 and a psu probably close to the same price. Carry over your old drives etc and you’ve got a half decent box you could upgrade to zen 3 later.
 
2 power supplies?
That is ALSO a bad idea.
Well,
I ended up going the best path and bought a PC with an i5-10500, 520W seasonic PSU, 16GB DDR4 RAM, Samsung M.2 NVME 980 512GB, 2TB HDD and all of that on a decent H470M PLUS MB in a nice case, all of that for 320 bucks. The guy even sent me a detailed AIDA64 report before I'm gonna buy it tomorrow. (Anything to look out for in the AIDA report?) I'll smash the 1660Ti and my second 2TB HDD in it, it already has Windows 11 Pro installed on the NVME, so I'll be good to go.
I'll sell what I have now, but I need to figure out this: I have the OS on an SSD, but the default downloads, pictures, videos, etc. folders are on the HDD (D drive). How should I proceed, if I want to take out the HDD, but keep the SSD with the OS on it, and have it ready to use for the next owner with all the download, picture etc. folders on the SSD? (without the need to move all the folders and my data to it before making a factory reset)
Thanks for all the advice!
 
Last edited:
I am a bit stubborn, sorry for that…

I’ll buy a new one, keep the GPU and the HDD drive and get rid of the rest. For 270$, I can get a i7-6700K + decent MBD + 16GB DDR4 RAM combo, the rest will be 200 more bucks and I’ll be good to go
I7-6700K has 8 threads and a passmark rating of 8954/2523. The last number is the single thread rating which is most important for games.
By comparison, you can buy a new I3-12100F for $84:
8 threads but a passmark rating of 14540/3550
A new B660m motherboard for $85:
And a 2 x 8gb DDR4 ram kit for $42:
total $171. Microcenter may even do better.
 
Well,
I ended up going the best path and bought a PC with an i5-10500, 520W seasonic PSU, 16GB DDR4 RAM, Samsung M.2 NVME 980 512GB, 2TB HDD and all of that on a decent H470M PLUS MB in a nice case, all of that for 320 bucks. The guy even sent me a detailed AIDA64 report before I'm gonna buy it tomorrow. (Anything to look out for in the AIDA report?) I'll smash the 1660Ti and my second 2TB HDD in it, it already has Windows 11 Pro installed on the NVME, so I'll be good to go.
I'll sell what I have now, but I need to figure out this: I have the OS on an SSD, but the default downloads, pictures, videos, etc. folders are on the HDD (D drive). How should I proceed, if I want to take out the HDD, but keep the SSD with the OS on it, and have it ready to use for the next owner with all the download, picture etc. folders on the SSD? (without the need to move all the folders and my data to it before making a factory reset)
Thanks for all the advice!

Wish you had a spent a little more and gotten a good PSU, but it's way better than your current one.

Also, from the sounds of it, it sounds like your pictures and downloads aren't properly backed up, which means sooner or later you're going to lose all of them, which means that this is a bigger priority.
 
Wish you had a spent a little more and gotten a good PSU, but it's way better than your current one.

Also, from the sounds of it, it sounds like your pictures and downloads aren't properly backed up, which means sooner or later you're going to lose all of them, which means that this is a bigger priority.
I have all my pics etc. backed up on two different servers + a flash drive, plus I don't have that many of them in total. Now I just need to figure out how to move the default docs, pics, download folders to C:, without moving all the stuff in them, and then take out the HDD and make a factory reset, keeping just the SSD inside...
 
Now I just need to figure out how to move the default docs, pics, download folders to C:, without moving all the stuff in them, and then take out the HDD and make a factory reset, keeping just the SSD inside...
Not entirely sure of what you mean here.

A whole new system == a full wipe and reinstall of the OS.

Save all your data to some other drive.
After the new system is up and running, simply copy it back to where you want.
 
but I need to figure out this: I have the OS on an SSD, but the default downloads, pictures, videos, etc. folders are on the HDD (D drive). How should I proceed, if I want to take out the HDD, but keep the SSD with the OS on it, and have it ready to use for the next owner with all the download, picture etc. folders on the SSD? (without the need to move all the folders and my data to it before making a factory reset)
1. For giving this system to a new owner - Full wipe and reinstall
2. For your data, copy it somewhere. Have it offline during this new build process. After the new system is fully built, copy the data back.