[SOLVED] Black Screen, PC Freeze, GPU Fans Run at 100%

[AnthonyStew]

SPECS:

• i7 7700K @ 4.2ghz with Hyper 212 EVO Cooler
• Asus Maximus HERO IX mobo
• 32 GB Corsair Vengeance RAM 3000Mhz
• Asus Rog 011G RTX 2080 TI
• Monitors: Asus Rog PG278QR & BenQ XL2411Z
• Samsung 850 EVO M.2 500GB

Problem:

I can replicate this issue whenever. If I start any game (usually my main game, black desert online) my fans will start revving up to 100% then back down for around 30 seconds. They will then hit 100% and spin for about 5 seconds while my screen goes black and PC locks up. My PC then recovers, sometimes the game does too. Otherwise, the PC recovers to normal but the game crashes. My PC has never shut off or not recovered during any of my attempts to recreate the problem.

Temps do not get hot at all. I haven't seen the GPU hit more than 65c before my screen goes black and game crashes. The PC could literally be off all night, then instantly crash as soon as I turn it on and start something.

If I try to play in lower settings with 1080P instead of 1440P. It seems to play fine.

Also, if I set a custom fan curve with any OC utility (ie; GPU Tweak or Afterburner) it will get overridden and go to 100% fan speed anyways.

If I check event viewer, the only error I get is "Event 4101: Display driver nvlddmkm stopped responding and successfully recovered".

When this happened:

This last Saturday, 8/24. I woke up and turned my PC on as usual. Got onto Black Desert and it started crashing. I've been troubleshooting all day, every day since then. No signs of this happening before, it just started out of nowhere.

What I have tried:

• Older/New GPU drivers. Uninstalled every time in safe made with DDU. Also tried WHQL versions without GeForce Experience and/or audio drivers.
• Clearing CMOS and using a brand new CMOS battery
• Wiping M.2 with secure erase built-in to Asus mobo, Wiping M.2 with Secure Erase from Samsung Magician Software, Installing Windows on brand new USB
• Installing Fall Windows 10 update and older builds with bootable USB windows installers. Reinstalling current windows build
• Changing RAM slots, trying only 1 RAM stick, clocking down from 3000mhz to base 2133mhz.
• Disabling Fast boot/fast startup in power options and bios
• Changing/adjusting power options
• Swapping all PSU cables. Plugging PSU connectors into different slots
• Changing between different PCIe slots for GPU
• Putting my PC into a different room/plugging into different outlets.
• Changing literally all cables I can (AC/Displayport/etc)
• Trying different monitors, going down from 144hz to 60hz, disabling GSYNC
• Disabling/uninstalling the audio drivers that come with NVIDIA drivers
• Full disassemble, cleaning, and setup of PC again. New thermal paste applied to CPU. All heatsinks/fans dusted
• Ran MEMTest86, Furmark, Unigine Valley, Intel Burn InTest. All successfully passed. Blackscreens would only happen during Unigine Valley stress testing.
• I've also heard that reapplying new thermal paste to the GPU could potentially solve the problem. But as far as I know, this voids my warranty and would disqualify me for future RMA if necessary.
• A bunch of other stuff I probably can't think of right now

I have brand new 500W Thermaltake PSU that my brother is about to use in his PC. Would 500W be sufficient to try and test with my build? My first inclination is that it would not be. I've typed my specs into some of those wattage estimator programs, and my build is over 575W draw in most of them.

Relative picture links in an album here:

https://imgur.com/a/Qmt0XVR

View: https://imgur.com/a/Qmt0XVR


If there is anything that people want me to try, I am all for it. All help is much appreciated it.

 

[Wrecker75]

500watts is plenty for testing, just don't overclock anything. But first, are you running single cable to the video card ?

 

[Deleted member 2731765]

I have brand new 500W Thermaltake PSU that my brother is about to use in his PC. Would 500W be sufficient to try and test with my build? My first inclination is that it would not be. I've typed my specs into some of those wattage estimator programs, and my build is over 575W draw in most of them.

List the exact MODEL number of this Thermaltake PSU.

 

[AnthonyStew]

500watts is plenty for testing, just don't overclock anything. But first, are you running single cable to the video card ?

I've ran a single 8pin to 6+2 double splitter cable on both top and bottom rails to the GPU. As well as 2 separate 6+2 cables into the GPU.

List the exact MODEL number of this Thermaltake PSU.

TR2-500NL2NC

 

[Wrecker75]

yeah... that's kind of pushing it since you have to be under load to test, with your specs I assumed the 500 watt was at least a decent 80+ Bronze

 

[Deleted member 2731765]

TR2-500NL2NC

That's a poor quality PSU. Kindly upgrade your current PSU if you plan to use the RTX 2080 Ti. That TR2 Model from thermaltake isn't the very best of power supplies.

I would definitely recommend you to replace this TR2 Model for some other high-quality PSU model.

 

[AnthonyStew]

That's a poor quality PSU. Kindly upgrade your current PSU if you plan to use the RTX 2080 Ti. That TR2 Model from thermaltake isn't the very best of power supplies.

I would definitely recommend you to replace this TR2 Model for some other high-quality PSU model.

I am going to order this Dark Power Pro 11 850W Plat+ from Be Quiet tomorrow. It is ranked in top tier on every PSU list I've seen recently. I planned on upgrading my 750W EVGA for my next build when the 9900KS or 3950x drop anyways. Thanks!

 

[Deleted member 2731765]

Yeah, that's an excellent PSU model from BE QUIET.