Chiller box mod project

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Motopsychojdn

Motopsychojdn

Illustrious
Jan 26, 2010
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Ok, just a headsup for the crazies out there,
Ordered my parts for the next phase of the loop,

http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/841264/Ezetil-E15-electric-cool-box-14-litres-12V
A set of QDC's and six feet of black tubing, and another Usb temp sensor to go in the water, I already have the matt black spraypaint required and more ducting I had left over from the radbox project
The chiller will be a removable module of the loop so I can run the Pc standalone, with either the radbox or chiller, or all three,
I'll do a mod log as usual of course but just wanted to let folks know the plan and get any feedback/questions answered in here so as not to clog the log up too much, that happens with my logs hehe
Speaking of which, here are links for the preceding carnage.
Main Pc
Radbox build
gfx cards mod
and I really will find time to add This into the loop at some point 😛
Lets get betting on the outcome shall we?
😛
Moto
 
looks like it will be a cool project especially if you can remove the component hot swap style....just be prepared to insulate everything when cooling sub-ambient...looking forward to seeing the pictures of the outcome...what rig are you gonna be cooling with this?
 
I run my tubing through 2" ducting already so I'm pretty sure further insulation will be unneccessary although I can do so if required 😛
975BE and two 6950 2Gb's is the heatware, links to the build logs will be added to the Op, I forgot to do that :)
I've had 4.5GHz out of the chip but run at stock day to day, cards are stock but its not about removing heat really anymore and its as silent as anyone could like, this is just icing (no pun intended), exploring possibilities and engineering
Moto
 
haha yea nice man that sounds like its gonna be a fun project....by insulation I meant around the motherboard socket so you do not get any condensation on the board. sounds like you got the whole thing down though
 
I know a lot of people think/ are led to believe that insulation is vital for S.a. cooling but what they miss is the fact that the dewpoint differs depending on local humidity, extremes of temperature meeting at XXX will drench your system but user controlled variables like water mass, restriction and fans can subtly tweak you to near the dewpoint, but far away enough to not cause condensation, thereby negating the need for extreme ugly mb padding 😛
I already experience a -2'c to +3'c delta with an idle temp of 26'c in a 21'c room so adding this *should* get me cheerfully to 7-8'c below ambient with some tuning, which is right around the mark, I'm sure I can run the radbox with fans off for normal use and turn them on for gaming when I need it to work harder,
Moto
 
haha yea you def got it all down...me personally I would add that just for peace of mind....I dont like the possibility of having that one odd chance that my rig could get ruined by condensation
 
Which is why I research and develop ideas months in advance of actually starting a project,
A lot of folks are worried about water in the Pc fullstop, with care and paying attention to what you do its safe,
If I remove that one possibility of condensation by educating myself as to how, when and why it occurs then I can feasibly keep this as a walk away low maintenance unit, but as is usual with W/c, I'd be stupid to not keep an eye on things, but thats just par for the course.
Moto
 


I did check that out before buying, I wanted to check any impending death warnings (before giggling at them)
I also exceed prescribed speed limits from time to time, eat cheese right before bedtime and go out with wet hair 😛
I see instruction manuals as information for sheeple, I'm a guerilla engineer baby,
the instruction book (and any applicable laws of physics) go out the damn window hehe
Moto
 
Ok, in the interests of science/posterity heres a rundown of the schedule such as it is,
(Which I drew up as I typed it 😛)

once I have the chiller and Usb sensor I'm going to take ambient temp and see what the chiller temp gets to when empty, 25%, 50% and 75% full, this will give me an idea of its capabilities,
then I'll hook it up to the Radbox and check the flow is strong enough, if not, I'll need another res/pump ordering
once I'm happy there I will hook it up to the Pc on its own and repeat the 25/50/75% tests at a load to see how it copes with the heat on its own, both as a passive mass and powered up
then add the radbox in, tests with all fans off
repeat fans on low
repeat fans on max
The casefans are included in the fans on/off measurement except the fan mounted over the cpu waterblock, that will remain on at all times unless I deem it necessary to remove it, but I reckon that casefans will help push any ambient moisture out of the case so would like to keep them as a separate variable, casefans and rad fans are separate so will be treated as such
Obviously when at any point I hit problems they will be assessed and addressed but thats development for you, don't stop just because theres a wall :)
If I do end up blowing things up, I'll remember Edisons words,
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work"
Another quote I've just found and like is,
"The brick walls are there for a reason. The brick walls are not there to keep us out. The brick walls are there to give us a chance to show how badly we want something. Because the brick walls are there to stop the people who don’t want it badly enough. They’re there to stop the other people.”
Very good words I think that reflect the spirit of a lot of us here,
I also got my stepped drillbits today so ready to drill up to 25mm holes in things
Moto
 


I do admire your tenacity Moto but in this situation I believe you're going to be seriously disappointed.

With this being classed as a dry cooler, and not a wet cooler there will be provisions for air circulation you cannot see from the outside.

The PDF Manual mentions many negatives besides not putting liquids or ice directly into the inside compartment.

Like pre-chilling items before placing them in the cooler.

Wiping all condensation from them etc.

Meaning if you're thinking of directly putting water into this thing no matter how much Gorilla Engineering you do, you're in for a big surprise, but good luck and please supply some pictures of what the inside of this cooler looks like?

Oh and it's not meant for continuous operation, and the aluminum fin heat sink will Ice up on you.

In most cases I will read the manual after the fact, but for this case, well, we'll see!
 
Yeah, you're supposed to switch it off after six days for about two hours 🙂
Even on a gaming weekend it wouldn't/shouldn't be on more than 16 hours,
I'm aware of possible problems and am prepared to work around/through/over them, hence the detailed approach instead of just plumbing it in and firing up,
Small steps make for better data I reckon
First off is see how the box handles/doesn't handle cooling the water, like Yoda said, "Do or not do, there is no try"
Moto
 


What part of do not put water or ice inside do you not understand?



You'll probably end up dropping a radiator inside using the chilled air to cycle through the radiator fins, but then the heat from the radiator will to a certain extent counter the cooling effect of the chiller.

I would imagine since it's classed as a dry chiller, there are return vents somewhere toward the bottom of the cooler, thus the reason not to put water or ice inside.

But seeing as how there are not detailed drawing specs to look over you'll discover that when it's in your hands.

Ryan

PS; I'm not trying to offend you Moto, just trying to give you fair warning because it seems you're totally ignoring the obvious, as one that is also into Gorilla Engineering, I do respect that, but I've learned a lot at this point of what peltier cooling can and can not do.

And a lot I learned was learned the hard way as you're soon to discover yourself. Ry
 
No offence taken man 🙂 this is the point of this thread, to get some facts, opinions and caveats, like you said, we'll know more when the box gets here,
You yourself learned that the idea of chilling the water mass is more practical and easier to manage than having the tec on the feedline,
We have to do stuff like this for several reasons
To educate others, either by showing how to achieve a target, or by ruling the method out
To break 'knowns' like a few years ago it was known that man could not fly
And Ii can't explain the main reason properly, other than
Because I have to 🙂
Some things need done and its finding a way that drives me, there are lessons ahead yes but I'm confident that any potential for damage can be minimised if not eliminated by due process and exploration of the concept, which includes debate with others like you, I may miss an obvious thing that you or someone else points out
Don't apologise for challenging me mate, I really do appreciate it and thank you for it
Moto
 




Cool Mate!

I do hope it works out for you I'm just expressing caution, if nothing more you'll have a peltier cooler in hand a lot cheaper than the expense I've gone to. :)
 
Moto, If you don't mind how about some pictures of what this thing looks like in detail, the online information was pretty lame, I'd like to see inside the cooler and detailed shots of any venting?

Ry
 
Ordered 20L of distilled and way ahead of you Ry, took a few pics this morning,

Du boite froid,
IMAG0664.jpg

Inside is basically a bucket as I needed
IMAG0666.jpg


Inside the lid, and a closeup of the label,
IMAG0665.jpg

IMAG0667.jpg

48w=4A so not the most powerful pelt in there but results will tell, remember its not cooling the Cpu or Gpu's heat, its only chilling the water,
Inside the lid coldside,
IMAG0668.jpg

and hotside
IMAG0669.jpg


Both sides use centrifugal fans,**checked it out in the other half's car, bit noisy but I'm sure I can mod proper fans onto it if the Gf says its too loud/annoying 😛** and the RL documentation is the internet pdf on paper in several languages, as well as in french 😛
I've no free time this week unfortunately to start playing, other halfs not too well and I have a charity survival run on saturday and an exhaust to refurb and fit on my bike, but the box and fittings are here and I'm only waiting on the distilled and usb sensor, although I can borrow one of the other sensors to get going for now until it arrives,
I am wondering about the flowrate though, that extra pump may be a necessity but time will tell I guess
Moto


 
Moto, That's extremely interesting!

The peltier is sandwiched between 2 passive heat sinks with air flow over the hot side vented out the top and cold side into the cooler.

Well at least there's no visible reason why you cannot put water inside the cooler.

Looking forward to your discoveries! Ry
 
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