Chiller box mod project

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Expanding foam is some messy permanent extremely difficult crap to remove, make sure that whatever you use that expanding foam on that you'll not be reusing later, because you'll not be using it later for anything other than it's original intended purpose.

Expanding foam would be a completely last resort product to use.
 
Got my eye on another res/pump and a second Psu for the rig, after christmas I should be getting a crossfire V and 8350 but I'll keep those as backups for when this mobo and chip call it a day, I really want this 4.6GHz stable hehe
Moto
 
Presently I'm running at 10c below ambient, what would that do for you 4.6ghz? :)

That's with one peltier energized, with both energized I can game down to 10c actual, and that is 14c below ambient, with zero condensation.
 
wow, I forgot he had another pump in there, thats 3 pumps of the same kind. Tell you what modo, sell both pumps(three if you've already bought it) and get something like a MCP35X(2)?

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/awards/pumpchartpdf.pdf

tubing runs should be insulated as well , not just the TEC cooler. ever thought of going with norprene tubing? I suppose they'd cut it but as for their rubbery nature, they are more prone to wear and tear.
 
**I Think, U R, Over Thinking!**
Possibly, I do that hehe, but if you saw the flow from the Pc into the chiller when I hooked it up, you'd know it needs addressing 😛
@lutfij, insulation in my scenario won't involve the Peltier, thats already sandwiched in polystyrene,
and my tubing between modules is mostly in 2" ducting that as well as looking better insulates the tubing to a degree,
so its just a few bare areas I need to ensure are covered but I had to mention it in case anyone started screaming about condensation hehe
And I won't swap pumps, just one of my foibles hehe
:)
Moto
 
ok, now sound like me - and I tend to loose days of sleep like that. Kudos, I'll encourage you then, however I also see myself doing an about turn and taking the next right on the off ramp 😀
 
Hehe, well I just bought....
Cx500 *Arrived
x20 750 respump *Arrived
10M 18awg wire *Arrived
5 pair molex plugs and pins *Arrived
Xspc temps sensor thing in white *Arrived
2m of foam tubing and 50 zipties *Arrived
Still waiting on fittings **Arrived
Merry xmas me yay!!
:)
Now, I need to 'borrow' a white coat from work to finish the 'Eccentric' scientist look...
Moto
 
I assumed that the mad was implied hehe,
Igor, raise the multiplier to 23 and hike the Nb voltage once the lightning strikes!!!!
young-frankenstein.jpg


Yeth marthter.....
8vmrLIOQL6kGfMyprVU3AMBKoVs.jpg


I'll show you, I'll Show you all hahahahahaaaaaaaaa!!!!
Moto
 
Some new toys arrived today,
IMAG0707.jpg

I'm still waiting on the wire, foam tube, temp sensor thing and fittings and I'm good to go,
I'm thinking the Psu might go in the Radbox, some modding required ofc 😛
I'm off for christmas after thursday night so plenty of time to get it done and some testing in :)
Moto

 
Wire arrived today, foam, sensor and the fittings to go :)
The other half is working up till Christmas eve so when i finish friday morning i'll have around 10 days off to solder scream and laugh, plenty of time :)
I may have one issue though Ryan, I checked my old Psu over and the Catalysers shot on the port compression coil,
some things get broke can't be fixed...
for everything else theres me hehe
😛
Moto
 


Learned the hard way:

Radiator Cooling is always on the plus ambient side, no matter how many radiators there are.

Radiator plus Chilled water will yield close to actual ambient, but the radiator tends to warm the chilled water because it operates in ambient.

Chilled Water produces below ambient, how far below ambient depends on how you are chilling it.

Thoughts about using a radiator to drop the water temperature before going to the chillbox seem to be a good idea, I thought it was, but it became the opposite of what I wanted as it kept the chilled water from going as low as I wanted.

Because the chilled water is circulated back through the radiator, don't forget how a radiator is actually used in a car, 2 different radiator principles are used.

The main radiator cools the engine, the secondary heater core radiator heats the inside of the car, the reason I brought that up was to consider the uses of radiators before they were ever modified for use in the computer water cooling.

The radiator itself is not an active cooling component, the water flows through it period and it's only means to affect the waters temperature is the air flowing through the cooling fins.

If the air in the room is cooler than the water flowing through the radiator it cools, if the air in the room is hotter than the water flowing through the radiator it heats.

The whole purpose of the chillbox is to give you below ambient water to cool with, and combinations with radiators will negate that goal.

If you go that route, you will discover exactly the same results as I did.
 
The best chillbox cooling performance will be using the chillbox by itself to cool the CPU, cooling factors are insulation to keep the chilled water cool at the chillbox and through out the entire water loop, and the wattage of the peltier/TEC providing the cooling power being used to counter the wattage heat load the CPU is adding to the water.

The best TEC results is using an independent TEC to cool the water being dumped into the chillbox, the chillbox is already insulated and acts as a stable temperature reservoir.

Moto, You can either go for it!, or half step your way there through wasted money, but the cooling you're after will require an independent Peltier cooling the water before the chillbox, and your present chillbox cooling capabilities will help to maintain the chilled storage water temperature.

Where I was having to have a floating insulation layer in my cooler, you will not, as the chillbox can maintain the the cold inside, which gives you a great advantage, but you do not have the CPU wattage heat load lowering capability yet.

Your present chillbox by itself will not be enough to counter the heat coming from the overclocked CPU, the CPU will be able to heat the water faster than the chillbox cooling circulation can handle.

You have to at least neutralize the heat load coming from the CPU, but to reach below ambient you'll need more wattage cooling than the CPUs wattage heating.

Edit: Granted you can leave your chillbox running overnight and drop your water temperature as low as it can through the night, and have some short lived cooling time, until the CPU warms the water in the chillbox, but you wanted an overclocked 4.6ghz stability range of cooling for your CPU didn't you?

 
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