Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue

[sys2021]

I have owned a Compaq Presario R3000 for about 2 years now and I've been having this extremely annoying issue lately.

The computer keeps going into battery mode (the screen is darker) even with the power cord plugged in. I thought it was the power cord so I went out and bought a brand new plug. No such luck. I really have to shove the plug into the computer to get it to recognize the cord itself, and even then the screen turns bright for about 1 second, then goes back to battery mode.

This is quite irritating since I use this computer all the time, and can't properly charge the thing unless by some miracle the screen stays lit.

I just need a solution to this problem. I don't want to have to send my computer away to get a new case for it or something, because that is just ridiculous. Is there any easy way to remedy this issue?

 

[gpfear]

Nope. System board needs to be replaced. If its under warranty, bite the bullet and have it fixed.

 

[BrettBates]

Hey sys2021;

Having the same problem you are with my Compaq R3000.

The damn battery light on the front representing the power always turns off and I pull the plug out and then push it back in and have the same results as you.

Went to HPs website and downloaded the latest BIOS software:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareList?lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=442915&os=228

So far, I have not seen the problem occuring for about 10 Minutes or so, so this may or may not have solved the problem.

Anyway, it is worth a try and much cheaper than a new motherboard.

Brett

 

[BrettBates]

Well;

The CMOS update didn't solve the problem. I am going to attempt to open the thing up and see if the plug may need to be reattached to the motherboard.

Will keep you updated.

Brett

 

[Douglas]

I can't believe I'm hearing this. I am having the same annoying issue and thought as well that it was the power cord. I went and bought a new one to the tune of $110. Everythign seemed to be okay for a couple of days. I travel between multiple offices and home on a daily basis and therefore use my laptop extensivley. Somethign peculiar about mine is that when this issue starts happening, it will continue for about 30 minutes, with me inserting and pulling the cord in and out with the same very annoying result. After that it seems to be okay. Is there anything that can be done to resolve this issue???

Douglas

 

[BrettBates]

Ok;

Confirmed that it is the plug on the motherboard.

I opened up and resoldered the middle pin to the mother board and everything is fine now.


Brett

 

[Douglas]

For those of us lacking both the tools and expertise to solder the pin back into place, what are the other options?

Douglas

 

[BrettBates]

Not sure, since I have not looked into the other options.

As far as the tools are concerned, the soldering iron can be picked up at Walmart for around 5-10 bucks, however, it does require a bit of patience and caution to get the pin soldered back on.

Anyway, sorry I don't have the answer on the other options, but you might also look into a local computer store and see if they would be willing to solder the pin back on for you for a small fee.

 

[DougMcC2]

Brett: I have the same issue but haven't figured out how to get to the power connector - mother board side. Would you tell me how to remove the key board / top cover to access for soldering? Thanks a million! Doug McCullough

 

[hotair]

o get to the keyboard, remove the thin silver top portion of the case above the keyboard. Its rather delicate, but if you pry up one piece you can slowly snap the rest of the piece off. Then there are 4 screws underneath, remove those. Once those are off, you have to carefully unhook the ribbon cable below the keyboard from the motherboard. when you are at that stage, just use a fine tool to gently push the brown security clip forward on the sides of the ribbon and it will slide out easily, just do the reverse to hook it back up. However, this is the 4th machine of that model that I have tried this on and the pin was only the issue one of them having power problems. Good luck though!

 

[DougMcC2]

Thanks a million! Will let you know how it goes...Doug

 

[DougMcC2]

I have tried a couple of times... can't find the silver strip you are referring to ... is it on the keyboard surface side or on the front/side/back side? Thanks... desparate..Doug

 

[hotair]

Doug, it is on the keyboard surface side. The strip covers the entire upper portion of the keyboard surface and includes the top portion of the hindges as well as the power button. I would start on the outside of the case up where the Warning sticker is, work gently across the top including the hindges. It should pop off pretty easily...just be gentle.

 

[DougMcC2]

Thanks ... I caved in and went to Computer ER...they charged me $30 to pull apart and solder...works great! Thanks for pointing me in that direction though... Doug

 

[phil42]

Don't forget to remove the three screws on the bottom of the computer that hold that strip on.

 

[Gastr1c]

I consider myself skilled enough to solder a pin to a board. However, I cannot read the brief instructions posted here and locate the power connector on the motherboard. Here's what I've done:

* Removed screws from underside of laptop that retain the plate above the keyboard.
* Removed plate above keyboard.
* Removed 4 retaining screws for keyboard
* Removed keyboard
* Looked and looked for the connector in question... where is it?

I assumed it'd be painfully obvious. However, the AC power connector is mounted in the back right of the laptop. It is seemingly underneath a bunch of other hardware when attempting to access it from under the keyboard. Are you even referring to the power connector where the AC adapter plugs in? Or are you referring to the power button which I assumed has nothing to do with this issue as my laptop ran great off batteries... until they ran out and I couldn't recharge them.

A picture is worth a million words.

 

[DougMcC2]

Yes...I was referring to the power connector, not the power button. I was not able to even get my top portion off as far as you show here... so I carried it to a "Computer ER" and they soldered it for me for about $30... looking back on the attempts to access and the time, I'd have to say it was worth the $30 for sure.

I know I could solder it IF I could get to it. That was my challenge.

Now I am keeping my batteries (yes, I bought an extra one prior to understanding the power connector was my problem) charged, carefully plugging in my LT overnight to keep them up and running off batteries for the most part...just to avoid the danger of popping the solder loose again.

Thanks everyone for your info and input. For those of you like me that haven't been able to get it open all the way, I hope you have someone in your area that can. It is certainly much less expensive than a mother board replacement.

Best regards, Doug

 

[phil42]

The bottom covers can be removed in 3 pieces (counting the CD/DVD drive and not counting the memory cover, hard disk, battery, etc.).

1. Remove the CD/DVD drive ( 2 screws, it slides out of the side).

2. Remove the smaller bottom cover over the processor/fan.

3. Remove the large bottom cover.

 

[Gastr1c]

So what was the point of me disassembling the keyboard?

Apparently I'll have to figure it out myself and then provide complete directions with some photos. Not that I'm ungrateful for the help provided thus far. It's just much less informative than I'd have hoped. I was expecting to pull a cover and see the part in question, make a single solder, and go back to work.

 

[phil42]

Don't blame me! The only reason I found out about the 3 screws holding the top strip is that I noticed that one of them was about to break.

 

[Gastr1c]

I wasn't blaming you.

I gave up on the self repair. I literally disassembled nearly all of the notebook - took the LCD off, the entire bottom of the casing, keyboard, etc. However, I still couldn't access the board where the power jack is soldered on. It was still hidden under the silver top casing which I couldn't easily figure out how to remove.

It was a fun adventure but I give up and will pay a "professional" to repair it. I'm assuming they'll want $500 to slap a new motherboard to fix it.

 

[phil42]

I would have been tempted to cut an opening in the silver case part and to try to solder it through the hole. But, with my luck, there would probably be something important right there.

 

[rschultz]

Here is how to disassemble it, and a link to the maintainence manual, which explains the process of disassembly in detail

http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00212209.pdf

http://www.takeitapart.net/archives/compaq-presario-r3000/

I am going to do this immediately, as the PC will not stay powered anymore. I was hoping that I would have time to buy a new jack, but now, that is not going to happen.

 

[phil42]

I am deeply indebted to you for finding this.

 

[rschultz]

Phil,

I completed the repair. The factory solders were obviously "cold solders". All connection points were loose, and dull gray in color. Also, the sound on / off switch on the right side of the machine stopped working about 6 months ago, and the switch solder connection had come off the board. I fixed that also, and then vacuumed all the dust out, reassembled the machine and now it works like new.

Make sure you wear a anti static wrist strap connected to your home ground when doing this work.

Print the important maintainence manual pages and follow the instructions. The maintainence manual kind of sucks, as you have to jump around in it, and some things are incorrect. For example, just before you take out the main board assembly, there is a black connector that has to be disconnected, the number of screws is incorrect, etc. Also, it is a good idea to put fasteners for each part removed into a separate small bowl or other container.

When putting the top strip back on, work from left to right, ensuring that the center clip is snapped before the right clip is snapped in. I did not do that and the center screw would not go in until I took the strip off and put it back on.

One more thing. My combo DVD/CD drive did not have a ribbon cable, just a connector inside, including power, I suppose. Take all 4 screws out behind the drive, or it wont come out. Then gently pry the drive out. If you are too forceful, you will break the drive bezel, like I did.

Your model might be as shown in the manual, but mine was not.

The entire repair took about 4 hours, with breaks and a few brews. I would not trust anyone else to do it. Most of the time was just figgerin' out how to do it from the manual. Actual work was about an hour. I used a weller WE550 soldering station, Temperature set at 73.

Ripped apart link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Ripped Apart.jpg

Solder Here Link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Solder_Here.jpg

Sound On/Off Button Resolder Link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Sound OnOff Switch Bad Solder.jpg

Rod