[SOLVED] Consulting some of the Overclocking decisions and noisy watercooling, plus transferring the setting after reinstalling ?

[themiziko]

Hello! About 9 months ago I decided to upgrade my PC. I trusted them with building my previous build, and they were quite reliable, but the company insisted on also dabbling into water cooling they haven't really done previously, and messing with overclocking. Since I'm not a specialist, and most definitely wouldn't be able to solve any long-term damages to the PC or spot mistakes in the BIOS and overclocking in general to prevent them, I was hesitant, but finally caved in.

The issues started when I started playing video games and my motherboard made noise warning me about high CPU temperatures and they were close to 88 degrees. The only resolution was to uncover permanently one side of the case and add one more fan. I brushed it off as a general issue with this specific case from "Be Quiet" model 601 which definitely does not equal to "be cool" and the generally bad foam in the case supposed to "reduce the noise" and choke my pc. definitely I didn't connect them any overclocking or settings per say.

Now 8 months after, that is the noise that my pc makes, idle, every 3-4 minutes:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egkXqf8enSQ&feature=youtu.be


Also the PC does seem to have some problems and occasional "freezings", plus from what I researched, they used GPU Tweak II which, from what I gather is not the best for that?

Here is my hardware:
https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/46330264

BIOS, GPU Tweak II, and CPU-Z

https://imgur.com/a/6FzaUvs

View: https://imgur.com/a/6FzaUvs


Basically, I'm trying eliminate overclocking and BIOS issues before jumping to diagnosing the water cooling itself. However, if the setting are in the safe range and are not in any way related to the noise, I also had some more Windows 10 related issues that started appearing after each updated and accumulated, so I am planning to reinstall it, and if indeed the overclocking is just fine I would like to prevent and save the settings before installation. What would be the best way to go about it?

 

[Eximo]

Well, they sold you slow memory. It does have an XMP profile of 2400Mhz, you should enable that. Image 2 and 5 there, Extreme Memory Profile.

I saw 1.32 volts, which is okay for a 10700k, but really there is no overclock applied at all. Everything is on auto, so the voltage is regulating itself according to what the chip is asking for. MCE (Multicore Enhancement) is set to auto, you could go in and disable that to be sure, but doesn't look like it is doing anything (That would put all cores at 5.1Ghz)

What CPU cooler is that? If it is a 120mm radiator, probably just a little small for a 10700K.

Orientation also matters somewhat. Ideally the pump (CPU block) should be at the bottom to prevent air bubbles from settling at the pump. So if the bulk of the radiator is lower then the CPU, that could be the source of your problem. You would then just need to move the radiator to the top of the case. (doing so will likely shake loose any bubbles that might be trapped in the pump/block)

 

[mamasan2000]

Sounds very similar to a pump failure. Did the freezes start recently? Same with high temps? Pumps do not like air at all, it kills them. But it looks like your AIO is at the top so air shouldn't get to pump. What AIO is it?

 

[themiziko]

Well, they sold you slow memory. It does have an XMP profile of 2400Mhz, you should enable that. Image 2 and 5 there, Extreme Memory Profile.

I saw 1.32 volts, which is okay for a 10700k, but really there is no overclock applied at all. Everything is on auto, so the voltage is regulating itself according to what the chip is asking for. MCE (Multicore Enhancement) is set to auto, you could go in and disable that to be sure, but doesn't look like it is doing anything (That would put all cores at 5.1Ghz)

What CPU cooler is that? If it is a 120mm radiator, probably just a little small for a 10700K.

Orientation also matters somewhat. Ideally the pump (CPU block) should be at the bottom to prevent air bubbles from settling at the pump. So if the bulk of the radiator is lower then the CPU, that could be the source of your problem. You would then just need to move the radiator to the top of the case. (doing so will likely shake loose any bubbles that might be trapped in the pump/block)

Sounds very similar to a pump failure. Did the freezes start recently? Same with high temps? Pumps do not like air at all, it kills them. But it looks like your AIO is at the top so air shouldn't get to pump. What AIO is it?

It started getting progressively worst over time since I got the PC. As I mentioned, my first reaction was to open up the left panel permanently and add one more fan to provide more cooling, because my motherboard gave me overheating warning anyways. And though it's 100% the fault of the 602/603 case from BeQuiet with tons of thick foam, but apparently not, so the sound started getting more frequent and loud, but the temperatures are not that high with the open case from the left, and people from other forum advised me to open up the top, and it seems providing space for the air from the radiator to circulate out did decrease the nose.

It's Navis EVO ARGB 280 v2 and here are some more photos of the loop :

https://imgur.com/a/5zU4f5F

View: https://imgur.com/a/5zU4f5F


If I can manage something inside this specific case to make the placement better for the pump, and maybe fix the issue before the pump is dead entirely, that would be amazing! But also it's still on warranty so worst case scenario I can also replace it, but I doubt they will if it was a human error and not a manufacturing issue itself

 

[mamasan2000]

It started getting progressively worst over time since I got the PC. As I mentioned, my first reaction was to open up the left panel permanently and add one more fan to provide more cooling, because my motherboard gave me overheating warning anyways. And though it's 100% the fault of the 602/603 case from BeQuiet with tons of thick foam, but apparently not, so the sound started getting more frequent and loud, but the temperatures are not that high with the open case from the left, and people from other forum advised me to open up the top, and it seems providing space for the air from the radiator to circulate out did decrease the nose.

It's Navis EVO ARGB 280 v2 and here are some more photos of the loop :

https://imgur.com/a/5zU4f5F

View: https://imgur.com/a/5zU4f5F


If I can manage something inside this specific case to make the placement better for the pump, and maybe fix the issue before the pump is dead entirely, that would be amazing! But also it's still on warranty so worst case scenario I can also replace it, but I doubt they will if it was a human error and not a manufacturing issue itself

Can you see the pumpspeed anywhere? Should be a couple thousand RPM and it should be running 100% at all times.
Do the fans ramp up the hotter the CPU gets? Have you tried playing with fancurves?

Looking at this, Noctua D15 is better. https://tech-legend.com/reviews/silentiumpc-navis-evo-argb-280-v2/3/ It doesn't seem like that efficient a cooler. If even Air beats it.
Compared to H100x

View: https://youtu.be/yGsgSUihxS4?t=101
Probably the same priceclass but H100x is only 240mm.