Lutfij :
@ Ryan - thanks for the honorable mention up top
means alot coming from thinkerers like yourself, in fact you're a die-ing breed in this day and age, its just gimme this and gimme that with people now-> no leverage for creativity.
and right now possible shrinking this cooling solution down to a manageable size is my most needed input,
I'll get about seeing what I can concoct.
Hey, as a small favor, can you take a pic of your office? something along the lines of a panoramic shot try getting as much of your office room+walls as possible? How small are you thinking of going?
I think it was you, Ryan , who mentioned giving up on copper blocks as the hotside/cold side stalled due to the copper retaining much of the cooled and then making the TEC think itself into reversing its cooling load...? If so, then modo's choice of going copper sinks will net negative results - me thinks.
@ Modo -Why not look for tall ally heatsink with as much surface area as possible. Possibly the old asus pin fin thermal heatsinks - I'm sure its available on egay
😀 have a windtunnel/shroud constructed around the sink and cool the hot side. Traditional heatsink designs have stagnation of air between their channels - when you have fins that are staggered, you get a vortex/stack(thermal) effect which should aid in more heat dissipation due to convection currents however in Modo's case - this will mean more air flow via fans as opposed to passive cooling which stack effects generally are situated in.
@ Ryan - would you be willing to get a hold of a copper drum and make that into a TEC plate? :lol: sounds silly but I figured the cooling surface needs to be increased and the volume of water needs to be decreased
edit: re-read some prev post, yeah you need reduced water mass and increased surface area.
I have a massive copper block in my possession which I completely wasted $150 bucks on, it's 10 times the copper mass of a traditional water block copper base, it did not work!
Because it was so massive it retained the cold to an extent it became capable of chilling the hot side of the peltier causing it to stall.
Up to this point I have absolutely discovered that cooling the hot side of the peltier is best accomplished with an air heat sink, I'm presently cooling with 2 different heat pipe versions. (questions still to be answered can a traditional finned heat sink fan combination handle the hot side?)
The answer should be yes if you take the factory design of Moto's Chillbox into consideration, however just one of my peltiers draws 5 1/2 times the power his does, so how much extra cooling is required for that increase of power, the heat pipe cooler may very well already be the best option.
With both peltiers I'm running 11 times the cooling wattage Moto has available, and that still was not enough to run my CPU and GPUs (2 580GTX with full coverage water blocks), all in the same loop.
Note: My goal is to have the same temperatures available using peltier cooling that I had with the Ice Block cooling that started this thread.
That goal is to be able to run at 10c which is 50f, for any and all overclocking possibilities at those temperatures which presently is exactly where my water temperature is right now and that's 16c below my ambient with my CPU only loop, and about 19c below my radiator cooling and still free of condensation.
Since I overclock my CPU much more than my GPUs it's much more critical keeping it as cool as possible, though I was hoping to have it all in one loop it would probably take a third peltier to accomplish that, or still run 2 loops and let the GPU loop be cooled by the 3rd peltier?
I just have to decide where to proceed from here, with shrinking it all down being at the top of the list.
ROFLMAO :lol: Seriously, I need to invest in vinyl tubing stock and tubing insulation, as I go through that stuff with all my changing and testing!
With all my testing and setup changing since this thread began, I have easily gone through $200 of vinyl tubing and pipe insulation and I'm not joking, thankfully the clamps are reuseable!
Picking up the cold is best done with a traditional water block sized to fit the peltier itself, with the water flowing through the block picking up the cold from the copper base.
Questions still to be answered does modifying the water block to increase it's flow actually need to be done?
High restriction water blocks like the XSPC Rasa have to be modified or it will freeze up on you, or are there water blocks that won't freeze up if they're not modified, by possibly completely removing a jet plate increasing the flow rate past freezing?
There's still a lot of unanswered questions, unfortunately answering these question not only requires time, it requires money to acquire what's to be tested, and that's where most shy away.
... most probably the poor guys getting laid off on the next employee roster.
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