[SOLVED] I'm having problems with my enthernet.

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Dec 2, 2015
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I bought a while ago a new network card (TP-Link TG-3468 V4 ) because my mobo network adapter is capable of only 100mbps.
It worked fine, but a few weeks ago it started deconnecting me from the internet for 1 minute then connected me back( for example when I was playing CS:GO, or when I had to screen share on Microsoft Teams and today when I was simply staying on Discord). Now when I run a speed test it says that the download speed is 90mbps ( before it was reaching 300mbps), tried to restart my router, nothing, same speed. If I test the speed on my phone on a 5Ghz connection it reaches 170mbps so I don't think my router is the problem. I tried to change the speed&duplex to 1Gbps but the speed didn't increase.
Does anyone have any ideea why it does this?
 
Solution
FYI:

Microsoft link:

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/an...0016-the-application-specific-permission.html

Right click the errors to get more information about error.

========

When you switched back to Ethernet did you disable the wireless adapter?

Also swap in another known working (at speed) Ethernet cable.

=========

Try running Windows' built in troubleshooters. The troubleshooters may find and fix something.

Then try "sfc /scannow" and "dism" via the Command Prompt.,

How to Repair Corrupted Windows System Files with the SFC and DISM Commands (howtogeek.com)

Note:

Just as a general warning you can find "fixes" on the internet. However, some fixes involve registry editing...
Make and model of your motherboard? What is the make and model of your PSU and the age of the unit? You should also include the OS version you're on if you're on Windows 10. You should keep the installer for the NIC's handy, sourcing them from manufacturer's support site. Uninstall said drivers and reinstall them in an elevated command, i.e, Right click installer>Run as Administrator.
 
Make and model of your motherboard? What is the make and model of your PSU and the age of the unit? You should also include the OS version you're on if you're on Windows 10. You should keep the installer for the NIC's handy, sourcing them from manufacturer's support site. Uninstall said drivers and reinstall them in an elevated command, i.e, Right click installer>Run as Administrator.

Mobo: Asrock H61M-HVS
PSU: Chieftec GPS-700A8
Windows 10 10.0.19041 Build 19041
Now I tried reinstalling the driver (it is a .inf file) but the speed did not increase.
 
Start by setting speed and duplex back to auto-negotiation. Do not use a manual configuration.

On your computer look in Reliability History for any error codes, warnings, or even informational events that correspond with the times that connectivity and/or speed problems occur.

Use Resource Monitor or Task Manager to observe system performance. Just use one or the other, not both at the same time.

Leave the window open but drag to one side. Work as normal and observe what changes occur.

You may be able to identify something that is taking system resources and slowing things down.
 
Start by setting speed and duplex back to auto-negotiation. Do not use a manual configuration.

On your computer look in Reliability History for any error codes, warnings, or even informational events that correspond with the times that connectivity and/or speed problems occur.

Use Resource Monitor or Task Manager to observe system performance. Just use one or the other, not both at the same time.

Leave the window open but drag to one side. Work as normal and observe what changes occur.

You may be able to identify something that is taking system resources and slowing things down.
I saw nothing that had to do with the ethernet. I've connected the ethernet cable to the motherboard and the speed was the same, when I reconnected it to the network card the speed got back to 300mbps. So at least for now the problem is solved. If it disconnects me again I'll look into the Reliability History to see if there is any error.

Edit: After a second look in the Reliability History I don't see anything that has to do with the network. In Event Viewer, under System tab, I only see errors from this: "DNS Client Events (2 of them) and DistributedCOM"
 
Last edited:
Start by setting speed and duplex back to auto-negotiation. Do not use a manual configuration.

On your computer look in Reliability History for any error codes, warnings, or even informational events that correspond with the times that connectivity and/or speed problems occur.

Use Resource Monitor or Task Manager to observe system performance. Just use one or the other, not both at the same time.

Leave the window open but drag to one side. Work as normal and observe what changes occur.

You may be able to identify something that is taking system resources and slowing things down.
Just now it got disconnected again. I looked into the Event Viewer and this are the recent errors : View: https://imgur.com/a/NjhlVKt
 
FYI:

Microsoft link:

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/an...0016-the-application-specific-permission.html

Right click the errors to get more information about error.

========

When you switched back to Ethernet did you disable the wireless adapter?

Also swap in another known working (at speed) Ethernet cable.

=========

Try running Windows' built in troubleshooters. The troubleshooters may find and fix something.

Then try "sfc /scannow" and "dism" via the Command Prompt.,

How to Repair Corrupted Windows System Files with the SFC and DISM Commands (howtogeek.com)

Note:

Just as a general warning you can find "fixes" on the internet. However, some fixes involve registry editing or perhaps some third party software.

Registry editing is a last resort and after making full backups of registry and system.

Third party "tools" should be viewed with lots of skepticism. Some of those tools will appear no matter what problem is occurring.

Do ensure that all data is backed up, proven recoverable, and readable. Especially if the end result is a necessary registry edit.

And as you narrow down the problem and post accordingly there may be other ideas and suggestions.,
 
Solution
FYI:

Microsoft link:

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/an...0016-the-application-specific-permission.html

Right click the errors to get more information about error.

========

When you switched back to Ethernet did you disable the wireless adapter?

Also swap in another known working (at speed) Ethernet cable.

=========

Try running Windows' built in troubleshooters. The troubleshooters may find and fix something.

Then try "sfc /scannow" and "dism" via the Command Prompt.,

How to Repair Corrupted Windows System Files with the SFC and DISM Commands (howtogeek.com)

Note:

Just as a general warning you can find "fixes" on the internet. However, some fixes involve registry editing or perhaps some third party software.

Registry editing is a last resort and after making full backups of registry and system.

Third party "tools" should be viewed with lots of skepticism. Some of those tools will appear no matter what problem is occurring.

Do ensure that all data is backed up, proven recoverable, and readable. Especially if the end result is a necessary registry edit.

And as you narrow down the problem and post accordingly there may be other ideas and suggestions.,
After all it was from the ethernet cable, I got a new one and now it works just fine.
I still have a question, first I bought one Cat 5E and one Cat 6 but they were manually crimped by someone and they were working only at 100mbps. Can the crimping be bad?
 
Seconding @kanewolf...

However, I will offer a more cynical view: even if the cables are factory made and tested those efforts may be more for show than any real/serious attempt at product QA (Quality Assurance).
Then why you can buy a Cat 6 cable if manually crimping it won't allow it to go over 100mbps? I mean is there a more advanced method to crimp it? Or you just have to try it until you get it right? :))
 
Then why you can buy a Cat 6 cable if manually crimping it won't allow it to go over 100mbps? I mean is there a more advanced method to crimp it? Or you just have to try it until you get it right? :))
SKILLED manual termination will allow gigabit connectivity. Most people are not skilled. Most people don't have test equipment that will allow them to verify that terminated to spec.
 
How the crimp is done (manual or machine) is just one factor.

The quality and consistency of the crimp is key. Machines are likely to be more consistent.

Also the quality of materials matter: cable, wire pairs, twists, and conductor (should be pure copper - not copper clad aluminum).

Manufacturer's can do tests - test takes time and is expensive.

Cheap test is simply conductivity along the wires.

Better tests include testing for actual speed. It is possible for 1,000 Mbps cable to fail with respect to 1,000 Mbps but pass at 100 Mbps.

Who knows what box or package any given cable may end up in.

Right now, name/known brand Cate 5e cables are all that is needed for most people.

You can easily delve as deep as you wish into the technical details.

E.g.:

https://www.ccexpert.us/interface-e...ble-is-right-for-your-users-cat5-vs-cat6.html

You can search for similar links and explanations.

Some are good, some are mostly marketing fluff to trick buyers into more expensive (and unnecessary) cable purchases, other links- best left unread.