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🙁 Noticed this today...

htya.jpg


A very slow leak, I've tried tightening the fitting, replaced the O-ring and even tried a completely different fitting....

Not impressed. I'll have to buy a new waterblock.
 


I've just ordered a EK Supremacy Clean, seems to do well in reviews for the price, certainly much better than the POS I've got now argh! (Deep breaths...).
 
Rusty - the reason your block has developed a slow leak is because of the blocks internal threading. It was subject to alot of debate from the makers and reviewer's. Alphacool also developed the same kind of block(sans the plate channels) with a half threaded port (which I think is the In port) and on Strens review, it was disqualified since that should cause a fitting to come loose during a small jolt probably from moving your case around or even touching the tubing connected to it.

FWIW - that Phobya should've been avoided but now its a confirming point when suggesting blocks to people. If you haven't confirmed, you could look into the Swiftech Apogee HD. My 2 cents. Any plans on dealing with the UC-2LT?
 
I'm partial to the XSPC Raystorm, better cooling performance than the XSPC Rasa with less flow restriction and for what it's worth both of those XSPC water blocks out performed the Swiftech Apogee XT rev.2 and the Danger Den MC-TDX.

@ Rustyy117

Just for the record your picture shows the blue rubber O-ring on the lower side of intake port partially out from under the fitting, you should not be seeing that outside the cupped sealing area, you don't see it on any of your other fittings as it should be, to be properly seated.

In most cases if the O-ring is too large it will do that and leak as well, the O-ring size is very important, it has to be the proper size.
 


No, it's not the O-ring.
It's a very small amount of white coolant, I wiped it away with a bit of tissue so it can't be the O-ring.
Also the O-ring is black, not blue.



Ah ok thanks for the info. I did knock the piece of tubing that connects to the intake fittings you see in the pic when I was removing the 24 pin power cable, then I noticed the leak.

The project has pretty much left me skint so I'm trying to get a good block but cheap, the apogee is a nice block (I've had one before) but it's too expensive. I'm hoping the EK supremacy block won't have the same issue as the phoyba.
I think I'll try and RMA the phoyba block, though it might be quite hard to prove it's faulty, maybe I'll have to make a video of it leaking or something...
 
PM me and we'll see what can be done about your block :) and for a moment there I didn't realize who you were until I saw your fatal sig 😛 how've you been? Long time and you changed your alias !
 


Awesome, I'll PM you momentarily :)

Yeah I come and go on this forum, If I have some free time I like to try and help people out but if I'm really busy with work then Toms takes a back foot, and yeah I'm good thanks :) you okay?

I thought it was time for a change and "omgitzfatal" felt abit juvenile...
I should really update that sig, thanks for reminding me 😉
 


I sent the faulty block back for a refund and bought a different block which is working perfectly. :)
 
Nice, can tell its going to be a very clean build once those final cables are cleared up.
Is all that cooled by a 360mm rad or am I missing something?!

Maybe a 45 or 30­º bracket screwed to the rear fan grill, to angle the fan so its drawing air off that massive VRM heatsink.
 


Looks good just make sure the 120mm fan is blowing into the case as it will be blowing directly on the VRs, when you water cool traditional case airflow for cooling is irrelevant, so instead of it's original exhaust intention use it as an intake, VRs cooled!

A traditional cooling fan outputs the maximum air on the 360 outer area, with low center pressure because of the fan motor body.

Reversing it will blow air directly on the VRs, wet your finger and test the air flow concentration on the exhaust side of the fan and you'll see what I'm saying.

Presently the fan is mounted exhausting air as the blue ring is on the intake side of the fan, flip it around and it will directly cool the VR heatsink, problem solved, no further rigging necessary.

Also will be cooling the memory modules as well.

 
It's one thick 360mm rad at the bottom with a 240mm rad in the front.

The back fan is a 140mm blowing out, was thinking if I should reverse it or not. At the top are two 120mm fans blowing down.

I'm going to get a 140mm fan grill / dust guard for the back fan so it doesn't blow dust into the case. Also need a 12-24v pump controller so I can run my pump at full speed.

The CPU is currently 4.7Ghz @ 1.452v. Prime95 runs full speed and the CPU never gets over ~45. But if I go higher it starts crapping out in a few threads, if I turn the voltage up my VRM's start having serious issues. Known problem with the Sabertooth 990FX boards.
 
Yea, if your going to flip that rear 140mm definitely get a dust filter or DIY one. I ran an unfiltered rear intake for a while, internals were covered in dust pretty quickly.

Koolance PMP-450S pump?
Think the only ones with a 12-24v controller are Koolance, don't know of any others.

Have you thought of running your GPU's in parallel?
 


They get HOT lol. I have a 120mm blowing on mine, and I have an exhaust 120mm in my case blowing at it as well. Keeps em cooler -& cooler VRM's = cooler CPU too 😀

But I think there are waterblocks you can use on them. I think EKs. Not 100% sure exactly which.
 
On my sabertooth I have a 200mm blowing right on the vrm as well as 120mm in the back exhaust and my 240mm rad in the top of the case, I'm good past 1.55v vcore. Given it's running a phenom II x4 and not an 8 core fx chip.
 


My PC now is running at 0v because 331.65 from nvidia killed my GPU. It won't get past the BIOS screen, and everything is green and black. THANKS NVIDIA. (Who remember the drivers the stopped your fans from working)
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/hardware/warning-nvidia-196-75-drivers-can-kill-your-graphics-card/7551
 



Well I did a little rearranging. I already have a detachable filter plate for a 120mm fan so I moved the top 120mm fan to the back and pointed in inward. Moved the 140mm fan to the top and pointed it down, so now I got both blowing across the MB. It did the trick and got it working Prime95 stable at 4.8Ghz 1.488v and NB at 2.4Ghz.

Yes I'm using the PMP-450S with the kit that you can get for it.

Are you talking two completely separate loops or just two lines that run into the same rads?

The primary goal of this build isn't super clocks but rather being incredibly quiet. I absolutely can not stand the sound of loud fans when I'm playing games and doing stuff.
 
The one loop with everything in it, GPU's arranged like this.
Click to expand...

Would need a powerful pump to ensure card #1 doesn't get lots of air trapped. The fittings on the WB's are pass through so without a back stamp water to force the water into the block it'll keep going straight down. It'll need lots of head pressure to be forced into the cavities.

Might look into it later on, would need a 2nd SLI bridge adapter though.
 
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