Question PC powers on only after 20 minutes delay after wall switch is turned on

[krzuri]

Hello, everyone!
I've been experiencing a peculiar and frustrating issue with my office PC lately and I'm at my wits' end trying to resolve it.

PC config:
AMD 3600xt (stock fan)
Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2 (rev. 1.0) motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (1x16GB) DDR4 3200MHZ x3 [48GB in total)
ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 3080 Trinity
WD Blue™ SN570 NVMe™ 500GB SSD
DQ750M-V2L fully modular 750W 80 PLUS Gold power supply (220 V input)
(PC routed through Luminous PowerX 2250 Pure Sinewave UPS Inverter)
1TB 2.5" HDD x1
500GB 3.5" HDD x1
Two monitors connected using DP and HDMI


This PC is being used for rendering and office work.

Symptoms:
1. Erratic/unpredictable power-on behavior: I leave my office at 6pm, shutdown/hibernate the PC and switch off the PC from the wall socket before leaving. I turn on the wall socket the next day at 10, it won't start immediately as I push the cabinet button. I've found that it turns on if I leave the wall socket on for about 15-20 minutes. Once the wall socket is on for the stated duration, pressing the power button usually turns on the computer. At times, to avoid inconvenience in the next morning, I shutdown/hibernate this PC but leave the wall socket on. There is no problem the next morning when I push the power button. It powers on immediately.
2. Time change in BIOS: once it starts after 15-20 minutes, the time is never synced.
3. RGB on USB keyboard stays on even while PC refuses to power on.

What all I've tried:
1. Swapping CMOS battery: I swapped the CMOS battery with another PC's. To no avail! The other PC with my PC's CMOS battery works just fine without any date and time issues. I've tried turning on my PC without CMOS battery as well, to no avail.
2. Resetting BIOS: Resetting BIOS through BIOS reset jumper (and CMOS battery too) but to no avail.
3. Updating BIOS: My bios was version 1 from 2020 august. Just updated it to the latest 17th version. It behaved well for one day, same issue thereafter.
4. Shorting PSU: I tried shorting PSU through motherboard power connector (while it is still plugged into the motherboard) using a metal pin. It powers on like a zombie. All fans and RBGs turn on but no display, and no usual fan speed drop (as is after normal boot up). As soon as I remove the pin, the PC and PSU drop dead. Problem persists thereafter.
5. Swapping PSU: Tried swapping Deepcool PSU with a 650W Thermaltake PSU (80+) but to no avail. Thermaltake PSU works just fine in the other PC. I've not yet tried using the Deepcool PSU in another PC.
6. RAM swap/realignment: I've tried all permutations and combinations to plug the RAM sticks to my motherboard. Nothing helps.
7. Cabinet Power switch: I've checked PC cabinet power switch using continuity feature on my multimeter. It works just fine, everytime!

Final comments:
I'm so frustrated due to this problem. I have no clue what has gone wrong. Please help with this issue. Has my motherboard gone bad? Is it my PSU, or something else?
Please help! I can try troubleshooting as you friends instruct.
Thank you so much, everyone! Really appreciate it.
Cheers to Tom's Hardware

 

[Ralston18]

This:

" switch off the PC from the wall socket"

Do not do that. The end effects can be very much the same as if power went off.

Windows requires a proper shutdown via the Windows ' power icon.

A proper shutdown includes preparing for the next startup, completing updates, closing apps/utilities, possibly some sort of interim restart, maybe finishing a backup, etc..

The loss of power via the wall switch interupts what Windows is doing which is turn is likely causing file corruption and damage.
Making things worse.

Let Windows complete the full shutdown.

Likely there are damaged and corrupted files.

Run "dism" and "sfc /scannow" - hopefully either one or both will find and fix things.

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

Side note: Look in Reliability History/Monitor. Do you see lots of "Windows was not properly shutdown" errors. Or other errors, warnings, and informational events for that matter?

 

[artk2219]

Hello, everyone!
I've been experiencing a peculiar and frustrating issue with my office PC lately and I'm at my wits' end trying to resolve it.

PC config:
AMD 3600xt (stock fan)
Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2 (rev. 1.0) motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (1x16GB) DDR4 3200MHZ x3 [48GB in total)
ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 3080 Trinity
WD Blue™ SN570 NVMe™ 500GB SSD
DQ750M-V2L fully modular 750W 80 PLUS Gold power supply (220 V input)
(PC routed through Luminous PowerX 2250 Pure Sinewave UPS Inverter)
1TB 2.5" HDD x1
500GB 3.5" HDD x1
Two monitors connected using DP and HDMI


This PC is being used for rendering and office work.

Symptoms:
1. Erratic/unpredictable power-on behavior: I leave my office at 6pm, shutdown/hibernate the PC and switch off the PC from the wall socket before leaving. I turn on the wall socket the next day at 10, it won't start immediately as I push the cabinet button. I've found that it turns on if I leave the wall socket on for about 15-20 minutes. Once the wall socket is on for the stated duration, pressing the power button usually turns on the computer. At times, to avoid inconvenience in the next morning, I shutdown/hibernate this PC but leave the wall socket on. There is no problem the next morning when I push the power button. It powers on immediately.
2. Time change in BIOS: once it starts after 15-20 minutes, the time is never synced.
3. RGB on USB keyboard stays on even while PC refuses to power on.

What all I've tried:
1. Swapping CMOS battery: I swapped the CMOS battery with another PC's. To no avail! The other PC with my PC's CMOS battery works just fine without any date and time issues. I've tried turning on my PC without CMOS battery as well, to no avail.
2. Resetting BIOS: Resetting BIOS through BIOS reset jumper (and CMOS battery too) but to no avail.
3. Updating BIOS: My bios was version 1 from 2020 august. Just updated it to the latest 17th version. It behaved well for one day, same issue thereafter.
4. Shorting PSU: I tried shorting PSU through motherboard power connector (while it is still plugged into the motherboard) using a metal pin. It powers on like a zombie. All fans and RBGs turn on but no display, and no usual fan speed drop (as is after normal boot up). As soon as I remove the pin, the PC and PSU drop dead. Problem persists thereafter.
5. Swapping PSU: Tried swapping Deepcool PSU with a 650W Thermaltake PSU (80+) but to no avail. Thermaltake PSU works just fine in the other PC. I've not yet tried using the Deepcool PSU in another PC.
6. RAM swap/realignment: I've tried all permutations and combinations to plug the RAM sticks to my motherboard. Nothing helps.
7. Cabinet Power switch: I've checked PC cabinet power switch using continuity feature on my multimeter. It works just fine, everytime!

Final comments:
I'm so frustrated due to this problem. I have no clue what has gone wrong. Please help with this issue. Has my motherboard gone bad? Is it my PSU, or something else?
Please help! I can try troubleshooting as you friends instruct.
Thank you so much, everyone! Really appreciate it.
Cheers to Tom's Hardware

Sounds like either the motherboards wonky, or you have a weird power issue, do you have a battery backup \ UPS that you can plug into for testing? Unclean power can cause weird issues, if you have a store near you with a decent return policy you could pickup the parts and see if either helps and then return them if they dont make a difference. Rarely, and i mean super rarely, it could be your CPU, but its not usually the first on my list.

 

[krzuri]

This:

" switch off the PC from the wall socket"

Do not do that. The end effects can be very much the same as if power went off.

Windows requires a proper shutdown via the Windows ' power icon.

A proper shutdown includes preparing for the next startup, completing updates, closing apps/utilities, possibly some sort of interim restart, maybe finishing a backup, etc..

The loss of power via the wall switch interupts what Windows is doing which is turn is likely causing file corruption and damage.
Making things worse.

Let Windows complete the full shutdown.

Likely there are damaged and corrupted files.

Run "dism" and "sfc /scannow" - hopefully either one or both will find and fix things.

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

Side note: Look in Reliability History/Monitor. Do you see lots of "Windows was not properly shutdown" errors. Or other errors, warnings, and informational events for that matter?

Hi,
Thank you for your reply.
I think you misunderstood my statement. I do not switch computer off from the wall that way. I always shut it down or hibernate before switching off the wall socket. When I switch on the power from the wall the next morning, I encounter this issue.
It has nothing to do with windows os, I think. This is a hardware issue.
I hope this clarifies.
Thanks

 

[krzuri]

Sounds like either the motherboards wonky, or you have a weird power issue, do you have a battery backup \ UPS that you can plug into for testing? Unclean power can cause weird issues, if you have a store near you with a decent return policy you could pickup the parts and see if either helps and then return them if they dont make a difference. Rarely, and i mean super rarely, it could be your CPU, but its not usually the first on my list.

Hi,
Thank you for your reply.
Actually the pc works flawlessly once power on. I don't suspect cpu right now. Do you have any suggestions on which part should I try replacing first?
Thanks

 

[stonecarver]

switch off the PC from the wall socket"

Do not do that. The end effects can be very much the same as if power went off.

What Ralston 18 said.

Do this for three days follow your hibernate nightly thing. BUT LEAVE THE WALL SWITCH ON. Did it fix your issue.

 

[Ralston18]

What else is shutdown and again turned on in the morning?

Has the wall switch been tested? Is it a dimmer switch by any chance?

And do you specifically select shutdown or hibernate on the PC before turning off the wall switch? What is the criteria for the choice you make?

Doublecheck the configuration settings.

For example:

https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/...er-or-monitor-from-sleep-suspend-or-hibernate

That 15 - 20 minute delay suggests to me that something is loose and needs to warm up, expand, and allow power to the devices being served on that connection.

Not sure about "2. Time change in BIOS: once it starts after 15-20 minutes, the time is never synced."

Meaning that if you turn on the computer at 10 a.m. that when the computer does power up 15-20 minutes later the system clock is reading 10 a.m. andf you have to manually update the system clock accordingly to say 10:20 a.m. for example?

And the keyboard remaining on ( "RGB on USB keyboard stays on even while PC refuses to power on.") suggests that power is flowing somewhere it should not be going.

This also: "All fans and RBGs turn on but no display, and no usual fan speed drop (as is after normal boot up). As soon as I remove the pin, the PC and PSU drop dead. Problem persists thereafter."

I am also wondering about what pins were shorted in the motherboard connector?

= = = =

Consider that there could be a grounding/earth issue.

Sketch out a diagram of all devices and all connections (power, network, video, audio). Include all power strips, surge protectors, wall outlets, and wall switches.

Look for any kind of a loop. Device A connected to Device B connected to Device C connected to Device D connected to Device A again.

One reason the situation is so frustrating is that there may multiple problems.

Try simplifying the computer's setup: basic PC, single monitor, keyboard, mouse. Nothing else connected. Determine if the problem continues. If not - then add back devices one by one allowing time between additions.

The key being, I believe, is to identify the source of that 15-20 minute delay.