[SOLVED] The time has officially come, is this $1200(ish) setup good?

TheUltraMarine

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Sep 24, 2016
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How is it going everyone! After 4 years, after so many part lists I've posted on here and saving up money, the time has finally come to build my Gaming PC! This setup has the idea in mind that I won't have to change it for about the next 4-7 years (hopefully), I've included 5 fans, 3 for intake and 2 for the exhaust for about as optimal as I can get for positive pressure airflow for the case and budget, now keep in mind, I included this much RGB to not regret not having enough in the future. This specific part list has been edited over the course of 6 months with suggestions from the community here and I am so thankful for all of your help, now, for one last time (for specifically parts, again, hopefully), let's rate this setup! PCPartPicker Part List

Memory: OLOy WarHawk RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($128.99 @ Dell)
Case: Aerocool Bolt ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.63 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MasterFan MF120R ARGB 59 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MasterFan MF120R ARGB 59 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MF120R ARGB 3in1 59 CFM 120 mm Fans ($54.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($199.66 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Corsair K55 + HARPOON RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard With Optical Mouse ($59.99 @ Best Buy)
Custom: Windows 10 (G2A Key) ($21.63)
Custom: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - Micro Center ($159.99)
Custom: ASUS GeForce GTX 1660 Super Dual Overclocked Dual-Fan 6GB - Micro Center ($239.99)
Custom: MSI B450-A Pro Max - Amazon ($99.99)
Custom: HyperX CloudX Stinger Core Gaming Headset - Micro Center ($39.99)
Total: $1243.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-04 05:21 EDT-0400
 
Solution
1660 Super is a little on the short side unless your budget is already stretched thin. It'll be ok as long as you are fine with some lowered settings to get the most out of the monitor. You'll find many of the AAA games peaking in the 90-120fps range.

The CX450 is fine, for what it is, it's the newer dc-dc type after the revamp and subsequent releases, but 450w is a limitation. It will work just fine, but you have little breathing room for expansion. Or a move to a stronger gpu in a year or 3.

Ryzen are quite particular about Ram. I've seen plenty of people use the OLOy, but have no real knowledge of their reliability or dependability or even compatibility. Might be great, might not, but for a 3000 series cpu 3600 is as good as it...
How is it going everyone! After 4 years, after so many part lists I've posted on here and saving up money, the time has finally come to build my Gaming PC! This setup has the idea in mind that I won't have to change it for about the next 4-7 years (hopefully), I've included 5 fans, 3 for intake and 2 for the exhaust for about as optimal as I can get for positive pressure airflow for the case and budget, now keep in mind, I included this much RGB to not regret not having enough in the future. This specific part list has been edited over the course of 6 months with suggestions from the community here and I am so thankful for all of your help, now, for one last time (for specifically parts, again, hopefully), let's rate this setup! PCPartPicker Part List

Memory: OLOy WarHawk RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($128.99 @ Dell)
Case: Aerocool Bolt ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.63 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MasterFan MF120R ARGB 59 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MasterFan MF120R ARGB 59 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MF120R ARGB 3in1 59 CFM 120 mm Fans ($54.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($199.66 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Corsair K55 + HARPOON RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard With Optical Mouse ($59.99 @ Best Buy)
Custom: Windows 10 (G2A Key) ($21.63)
Custom: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - Micro Center ($159.99)
Custom: ASUS GeForce GTX 1660 Super Dual Overclocked Dual-Fan 6GB - Micro Center ($239.99)
Custom: MSI B450-A Pro Max - Amazon ($99.99)
Custom: HyperX CloudX Stinger Core Gaming Headset - Micro Center ($39.99)
Total: $1243.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-04 05:21 EDT-0400

There are no problems whatsoever, incompatibilities, defections, nothing so it looks fine. However I really don't think a GTX1660 super will manage to pull 144fps in modern titles unless you set graphics down, what games will you be playing?
 
Custom: Windows 10 (G2A Key) ($21.63)
You should be very cautious buying a Windows key from a key seller. It could potentially be revoked and you will need to buy another key. Also, you may want to budget at least up to $60 for a 120mm 4-6 pipe tower CPU cooler, because even with the extra fans, you are going to have a warm CPU with the stock Wraith Stealth CPU cooler that comes with the R5 3600. Your maximum boost during gaming will be higher if you have a decent 120mm cooler like the $35 Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo or other socket AM4 compatible Hyper 212 versions. There is also a Black Edition with RGB for $10 more than the Evo. These are just examples, there are some coolers that perform a bit better, but most of them are a bit more expensive.
 
Some thoughts:

1. Cases are a personal thing. But it seems to me that something is wrong if you need to spend more on fans than on the case. There are some nice cases out there that are well ventilated and include fans.
For example the cm H500:
https://www.newegg.com/gunmetal-cooler-master-mastercase-h500-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811119350

2. Older CX power supplies are not well regarded.
Looks to be tier 5/6 on this list:
Look for a quality unit. Seasonic is always good.
I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

I would buy 550-650w to accomodate a future graphics card upgrade.

3. Do not buy a windows key that has a discount over 10%. It may be bogus, previously used, for an oem motherboard, or even contain tracking malware
 
1660 Super is a little on the short side unless your budget is already stretched thin. It'll be ok as long as you are fine with some lowered settings to get the most out of the monitor. You'll find many of the AAA games peaking in the 90-120fps range.

The CX450 is fine, for what it is, it's the newer dc-dc type after the revamp and subsequent releases, but 450w is a limitation. It will work just fine, but you have little breathing room for expansion. Or a move to a stronger gpu in a year or 3.

Ryzen are quite particular about Ram. I've seen plenty of people use the OLOy, but have no real knowledge of their reliability or dependability or even compatibility. Might be great, might not, but for a 3000 series cpu 3600 is as good as it gets, and a few $ more. You can get corsair lpx or gskills in 3600 for @ $79 for 16Gb.

If you can live with the stock cooler, great, it does the job. Barely. You could end up turning your earphone volume up during heavy gaming sessions, it was named Stealth for its size, not ability. You can't beat the Deepcool Gammax 400 for ability at a low price. $29 currently and goes heag to head with the hyper212 without having the worst designed mounting system ever.

Your pc will work as you have it, it'll even work great, especially coming from an older platform, it'll be night and day, any upgrades mentioned so far will be not much more than icing on the cake.
 
Solution
There are no problems whatsoever, incompatibilities, defections, nothing so it looks fine. However I really don't think a GTX1660 super will manage to pull 144fps in modern titles unless you set graphics down, what games will you be playing?
Well, I'm not gonna be playing in Ultra, I more of a performance/FPS guy, but I still like my settings on High to give me good visuals, but I mainly picked that monitor so down the line, when I upgrade my graphics card, I'll already have the monitor and the refresh rate to go with it, and even for now, either I had to go with 75 Hz or 144Hz for a $100-200 price point, (prices with 100Hz and 120 Hz get finicky) so I couldn't argue there since the 1660 Super still is able to push 100 FPS with the 3600, but would getting the Ti variant help?
 
1660 Super is a little on the short side unless your budget is already stretched thin. It'll be ok as long as you are fine with some lowered settings to get the most out of the monitor. You'll find many of the AAA games peaking in the 90-120fps range.

The CX450 is fine, for what it is, it's the newer dc-dc type after the revamp and subsequent releases, but 450w is a limitation. It will work just fine, but you have little breathing room for expansion. Or a move to a stronger gpu in a year or 3.

Ryzen are quite particular about Ram. I've seen plenty of people use the OLOy, but have no real knowledge of their reliability or dependability or even compatibility. Might be great, might not, but for a 3000 series cpu 3600 is as good as it gets, and a few $ more. You can get corsair lpx or gskills in 3600 for @ $79 for 16Gb.

If you can live with the stock cooler, great, it does the job. Barely. You could end up turning your earphone volume up during heavy gaming sessions, it was named Stealth for its size, not ability. You can't beat the Deepcool Gammax 400 for ability at a low price. $29 currently and goes heag to head with the hyper212 without having the worst designed mounting system ever.

Your pc will work as you have it, it'll even work great, especially coming from an older platform, it'll be night and day, any upgrades mentioned so far will be not much more than icing on the cake.
Thank you everyone for your feedback! Especially for the PSU, would this SeaSonic power supply work? Power Supply: SeaSonic S12III 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($78.98 @ Newegg)

And like I asked in my other reply, would a switch to the 1660 Ti be a good choice?
 
I have also gone ahead and added an aftermarket cooler (Cooler Master Hyper T4), since the 212 is currently not available, but please correct me if I am indeed wrong, I've also swapped the 3200mhz ram with Crucial Ballistics (RGB) 3600mhz ram. Since I now have new RAM and an aftermarket cooler, I removed one of the fans from the list, now there is 2 for intake and 2 for exhaust, creating a neutral pressure within the case. But to those who are saying that I shouldn't get a code from G2A, which is been used by tens of thousands of PC users when there are in fact reliable sellers on the site, why shouldn't I? Because I don't want $100 of the budget to go towards OS alone.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T4 70 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($92.85 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($128.99 @ Dell)
Case: Aerocool Bolt ATX Mid Tower Case ($56.03 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12III 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($78.98 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MasterFan MF120R ARGB 59 CFM 120 mm Fan ($27.48 @ Best Buy)
Case Fan: Cooler Master MF120R ARGB 3in1 59 CFM 120 mm Fans ($54.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Acer XFA240 bmjdpr 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($196.53 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Corsair K55 + HARPOON RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard With Optical Mouse ($59.99 @ Best Buy)
Custom: Windows 10 (G2A Key) ($21.63)
Custom: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - Micro Center ($159.99)
Custom: ASUS GeForce GTX 1660 Super Dual Overclocked Dual-Fan 6GB - Micro Center ($239.99)
Custom: MSI B450-A Pro Max - Amazon ($99.99)
Custom: HyperX CloudX Stinger Core Gaming Headset - Micro Center ($39.99)
Total: $1293.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-04 14:27 EDT-0400
 
Last edited:
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T4 70 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.99 @ Amazon)

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-04 14:27 EDT-0400
This cooler is worse than the Hyper 212 Evo and the same price. If you don't mind not having an RGB fan, get the Hyper 212 Black Edition for $38 because it has a better mounting method than the Evo and comes with a higher quality fan. Although, that fan doesn't move as much air as the fan on Hyper 212 Black Edition RGB at $45. There is around a 2C temperature difference in favor of the BE RGB because of that higher airflow fan. You could buy a higher CFM fan for better airflow, but that is going to increase the cost of the CPU cooler by $20ish, so in the long run you may be better off just getting the H212 BE RGB
 
This cooler is worse than the Hyper 212 Evo and the same price. If you don't mind not having an RGB fan, get the Hyper 212 Black Edition for $38 because it has a better mounting method than the Evo and comes with a higher quality fan. Although, that fan doesn't move as much air as the fan on Hyper 212 Black Edition RGB at $45. There is around a 2C temperature difference in favor of the BE RGB because of that higher airflow fan. You could buy a higher CFM fan for better airflow, but that is going to increase the cost of the CPU cooler by $20ish, so in the long run you may be better off just getting the H212 BE RGB
Thanks for telling me! Just swapped it on the part list, anything else I should know?