[SOLVED] Help with build. Which case should I buy?

[Kazuki70]

Im building a new pc. Any help on the build would be helpful, but I'm kinda lost on which case I should buy.


SSD: M.2 2280 Western Digital Blue SN550 1TB 3D NAND NVMe

PSU: Seasonic Focus Gold GX 750W

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 2x8GB DDR4-3200MHz CL16

Cooler: CPU Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black

Motherboard: ATX Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER Gaming OC 3X

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X


Again, I would thank any help with the build too.
Does that SSD work well with this build?
Is there a better PSU in that price range and would 550W be enough even with oc?
I kinda don't know anything about RAMs...
Do I need such an expensive Cooler? I do enjoy quit noise.
Same for motherboard and the rest.

I'm trying to make my first expensive PC, mostly for gaming, watching streams, videos and occasional streaming at the same time.
The build is based on the 2070 Super, I don't know if I'm already aiming cheap but the point is trying to save all the money I can.

The case I'm in love with is the ATX Fractal Design Define 7 simple with no window, but €165 for a case is maybe a little too much.
Thing is, quiet is good but hot is bad, so i don't know.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Quiet operation is FAR more a case of what fans you use than it is a result of anything to do with the case itself. In truth, the case does have an effect on noise levels, but it isn't as big a factor as some people or some case manufacturers make it out to be. The biggest factor on noise levels from the case design are down to what sort of grill pattern is used on the fan locations.

But mostly these days it doesn't make that much difference in that regard as long as the case is not one with severely restricted airflow.

Even the best case out there is still going to be noisy if you slap a few crappy ten dollar Cooler master fans in there. And the worst case will likely be very quiet with high quality Noctua fans in use.

The Fractal design cases are very good choices for the most part. Unfortunately, right now, most of what is available to be shipped is going to come from less desirable retailers or from third party vendors on Amazon, which means the prices are going to be more than normal. So you can either bite the bullet if you want a good case and you want it now, or you can wait a few weeks to see if things don't somewhat normalize in terms of what the online retailers are doing to get product out to regular customers.

The Define 7 is ok, but honestly I'd look more closely at the Define R6, Define S2 or the Define/Define S2 meshify cases. Even the slightly older Define R5 or Define S are still very good cases, and might be a bit less expensive.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

many cases have been out of stock since the outbreak started getting worse. it may be a good idea to wait a couple months to shop around if you don't find anything at the moment.
but here's a shopping list of most of the better looking cases with better options i have found recently:

https://secure.newegg.com/wishlist/pd/34786767

 

[IDProG]

Im building a new pc. Any help on the build would be helpful, but I'm kinda lost on which case I should buy.


SSD: M.2 2280 Western Digital Blue SN550 1TB 3D NAND NVMe

PSU: Seasonic Focus Gold GX 750W

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 2x8GB DDR4-3200MHz CL16

Cooler: CPU Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black

Motherboard: ATX Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER Gaming OC 3X

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X


Again, I would thank any help with the build too.
Does that SSD work well with this build?
Is there a better PSU in that price range and would 550W be enough even with oc?
I kinda don't know anything about RAMs...
Do I need such an expensive Cooler? I do enjoy quit noise.
Same for motherboard and the rest.

I'm trying to make my first expensive PC, mostly for gaming, watching streams, videos and occasional streaming at the same time.
The build is based on the 2070 Super, I don't know if I'm already aiming cheap but the point is trying to save all the money I can.

The case I'm in love with is the ATX Fractal Design Define 7 simple with no window, but €165 for a case is maybe a little too much.
Thing is, quiet is good but hot is bad, so i don't know.

I think 650W is the sweet spot for the build. However, if you can undervolt both the CPU and the GPU, 550W should be just fine.

Your RAM is good, but 3200MHz, CL14 RAM is the best bang for the buck RAM for now.

I, however, don't recommend the SSD. It's slow for the price, but the SN750 model is quite expensive for the performance.

If you want a great performing SSD with great price, I recommend Adata's SSD. I also recommend the ever so popular Crucial P1 and Samsung 970 EVO.

If you undervolt the CPU, you can reduce heat and power usage, while maintaining the same performance. So, if you undervolt the CPU, you can use cheaper cooler no problem.

You don't need 3800X, 3700X is enough. I don't really recommend 3800X, as it's in a quite weird place, because if you need more power than 3700X, you can jump right into 3900X or 3950X, because they provide a clear increase in editing workloads thanks to their more cores

You don't need $165 case. There are lots of $60 - $100 cases that offer great airflow, like Fractal Design Meshify C and Phanteks Eclipse P300A.

And, maybe, from the money you will have saved
(3800X -> 3700X), (750W -> 650W/550W), (Define 7 -> cheaper case), you can buy 2080 instead of 2070 Super.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Your "vote" is flawed. Neither of those CPUs should be what you are considering. Every person I've interacted with that bought the 3800x wishes they had bought the 3700x. Every person who has bought the 9700k wishes they had bought the 9900k OR simply not went with Intel for this generation, and went 3900x instead. Personally, I think it is too late in the cycle for purchasing Intel 9th Gen right now, and for AMD, anything other than the 3700x or higher is currently a wasted opportunity if you are looking for a high end part. The 3600 and 3600x are enough for MOST users though, and have very good performance. If you are ONLY gaming, that is a perfectly fine choice. If you are doing heavy multitasking such as recording, streaming or running other high intensity processes WHILE you are gaming, processes that are resource intensive, then something with more cores and threads like the 3700x or higher is a much better choice.

Your build, the way you have it outlined now, looks fine to me aside from the 3800x. For the memory, I'd look to 3600mhz sticks though, and you want to make sure they are compatible by using the Corsair memory finder or the G.Skill memory configurator to make sure they are compatible with your motherboard model. Not all memory is. Some absolutely is not. Model number of the memory kit is the key to establishing whether a kit has been validated on any given motherboard or not.

 

[Kazuki70]

Quiet operation is FAR more a case of what fans you use than it is a result of anything to do with the case itself. In truth, the case does have an effect on noise levels, but it isn't as big a factor as some people or some case manufacturers make it out to be. The biggest factor on noise levels from the case design are down to what sort of grill pattern is used on the fan locations.

But mostly these days it doesn't make that much difference in that regard as long as the case is not one with severely restricted airflow.

Even the best case out there is still going to be noisy if you slap a few crappy ten dollar Cooler master fans in there. And the worst case will likely be very quiet with high quality Noctua fans in use.

The Fractal design cases are very good choices for the most part. Unfortunately, right now, most of what is available to be shipped is going to come from less desirable retailers or from third party vendors on Amazon, which means the prices are going to be more than normal. So you can either bite the bullet if you want a good case and you want it now, or you can wait a few weeks to see if things don't somewhat normalize in terms of what the online retailers are doing to get product out to regular customers.

The Define 7 is ok, but honestly I'd look more closely at the Define R6, Define S2 or the Define/Define S2 meshify cases. Even the slightly older Define R5 or Define S are still very good cases, and might be a bit less expensive.

Thanks! I'm thinking maybe the ATX Fractal Design Define R6 for €140 or Fractal Design Define C for €85. You think the R6 is that much better, or would the Defice C be the better choice?

 

[Kazuki70]

many cases have been out of stock since the outbreak started getting worse. it may be a good idea to wait a couple months to shop around if you don't find anything at the moment.
but here's a shopping list of most of the better looking cases with better options i have found recently:

https://secure.newegg.com/wishlist/md/34786767?SortBy=2

Do I need to create an account to see the wishlist?

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

Do I need to create an account to see the wishlist?

it's a public link so it should link you to it without being signed in, but Tom's adds some weird text to links some of the time though.
removing the "https://" should stop Tom's from interfering, try copy/pasting the link below in your browser:

secure.newegg.com/wishlist/pd/34786767

 

[Kazuki70]

I think 650W is the sweet spot for the build. However, if you can undervolt both the CPU and the GPU, 550W should be just fine.

Your RAM is good, but 3200MHz, CL14 RAM is the best bang for the buck RAM for now.

I, however, don't recommend the SSD. It's slow for the price, but the SN750 model is quite expensive for the performance.

If you want a great performing SSD with great price, I recommend Adata's SSD. I also recommend the ever so popular Crucial P1 and Samsung 970 EVO.

If you undervolt the CPU, you can reduce heat and power usage, while maintaining the same performance. So, if you undervolt the CPU, you can use cheaper cooler no problem.

You don't need 3800X, 3700X is enough. I don't really recommend 3800X, as it's in a quite weird place, because if you need more power than 3700X, you can jump right into 3900X or 3950X, because they provide a clear increase in editing workloads thanks to their more cores

You don't need $165 case. There are lots of $60 - $100 cases that offer great airflow, like Fractal Design Meshify C and Phanteks Eclipse P300A.

And, maybe, from the money you will have saved
(3800X -> 3700X), (750W -> 650W/550W), (Define 7 -> cheaper case), you can buy 2080 instead of 2070 Super.

I'll go for 750W then.
G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (For AMD) 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200MHz CL16 is 110€
G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (For AMD) 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200MHz CL14 is 185€
I think I'm going for that RAM.
Maybe CL14 is not worth it.

 

[IDProG]

If that's so, then 3600MHz, CL16 is great for you.

I recommended 3200MHz, CL14 because my country sells one for $80 (2x8GB), which is a steal, and it's only a little bit worse than 3600MHz, CL16.

But, since it's not the case in your country, go for 3600MHz, CL16.

It performs better than everything that has higher than CL16 (yes, even 4000MHz).

I saw the Trident Z RGB one for €135 in PCPartPicker.

 

[Kazuki70]

If that's so, then 3600MHz, CL16 is great for you.

I recommended 3200MHz, CL14 because my country sells one for $80 (2x8GB), which is a steal, and it's only a little bit worse than 3600MHz, CL16.

But, since it's not the case in your country, go for 3600MHz, CL16.

It performs better than everything that has higher than CL16 (yes, even 4000MHz).

I saw the Trident Z RGB one for €135 in PCPartPicker.

But what is the difference between CL14 an CL16?
My only other option with this RAM is G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (For AMD) 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3600MHz CL18 for €125
there is also G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3600MHz CL16 for 192€. It's too much and it's not for AMD

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

My only other option with this RAM is G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (For AMD) 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3600MHz CL18 for €125
there is also G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3600MHz CL16 for 192€. It's too much and it's not for AMD

3200MHz CL14 is a better option than 3600Mhz CL16. and the non-RGB versions are usually ~$25 cheaper.
also, they don't need to be labeled "for AMD". that is only a marketing ploy. just check the intended motherboard's compatibility list.

 

[Darkbreeze]

3600 CL 16 and 3200 CL 14 are almost identical in terms of true latency. They are very, very close. 3200 CL 14 is very slightly faster, but CL14 memory is generally more expensive, even given the slower speed.

Whichever you can get for less, that is validated for your motherboard, is a fine choice. 3600 CL 16 is better, again, very slightly, if you are willing to overclock your memory a little bit and then do the rather extensive testing required anytime you manually overclock or change memory timings. For most, it's not worth the time investment. For some of us, it is, because we enjoy the time investment and getting anything we can for free, when we can.


1 / Frequency (not DDR) x Latency = True Latency (nanoseconds).

Stock 3200 @ 14 is faster than Stock 3600 @ 16:

1 / 1.600GHz x 14 = 8.75nS
1 / 1.800GHz x 16 = 8.89nS

Stable Overclock with 3733 @ 16 is faster:

3733 @ 16 is 1 / 1.867GHz x 16 = 8.57nS

 

[Kazuki70]

Im building a new pc. Any help on the build would be helpful, but I'm kinda lost on which case I should buy.


SSD: M.2 2280 Western Digital Blue SN550 1TB 3D NAND NVMe

PSU: Seasonic Focus Gold GX 750W

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 2x8GB DDR4-3200MHz CL16

Cooler: CPU Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black

Motherboard: ATX Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER Gaming OC 3X

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X


Again, I would thank any help with the build too.
Does that SSD work well with this build?
Is there a better PSU in that price range and would 550W be enough even with oc?
I kinda don't know anything about RAMs...
Do I need such an expensive Cooler? I do enjoy quit noise.
Same for motherboard and the rest.

I'm trying to make my first expensive PC, mostly for gaming, watching streams, videos and occasional streaming at the same time.
The build is based on the 2070 Super, I don't know if I'm already aiming cheap but the point is trying to save all the money I can.

The case I'm in love with is the ATX Fractal Design Define 7 simple with no window, but €165 for a case is maybe a little too much.
Thing is, quiet is good but hot is bad, so i don't know.

Thanks for all the best answers.
Went with
3700x
2070 super
b450 tomahawk max
Ripjaws V 3600MHz CL16
970 Evo
Meshify C
212 Black Editon (came with a crappy fan)
RM750x

 

[Darkbreeze]

212 Black Editon (came with a crappy fan)

Yep, those 212 coolers come with crappy fans. Fortunately you can add a good fan to that heatsink and get some pretty good performance out of it. Unfortunately that costs more than buying a decent cooler from that start that would have COME with a good fan. But it's at least an option. Throwing a decent Noctua NF-F12 or NF-A12x25 PWM fan on there would improve things by a fair margin and lower the noise levels substantially.

 

[Kazuki70]

Yep, those 212 coolers come with crappy fans. Fortunately you can add a good fan to that heatsink and get some pretty good performance out of it. Unfortunately that costs more than buying a decent cooler from that start that would have COME with a good fan. But it's at least an option. Throwing a decent Noctua NF-F12 or NF-A12x25 PWM fan on there would improve things by a fair margin and lower the noise levels substantially.

The RM750x makes a loud popping sound ONLY when I turn the pc off, never when I turn it on.
What do you think?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Nothing should EVER make a loud popping sound on your PC. Some motherboards and power supplies DO make "clicking" sounds from relays, but a click is definitely not a pop, so getting on the same page as to what the noise actually sounds like would be a good idea. Some power supplies DO make this clicking noise as the relay is triggered during the shut down process.

First thing to do is to make SURE it is coming from the power supply. Then, double and triple check all connections to make sure everything is fully seated and connected properly.

If you can record the noise and then post a link to the video or audio recording so I can hear it, that would be helpful too.

 

[Kazuki70]

Nothing should EVER make a loud popping sound on your PC. Some motherboards and power supplies DO make "clicking" sounds from relays, but a click is definitely not a pop, so getting on the same page as to what the noise actually sounds like would be a good idea. Some power supplies DO make this clicking noise as the relay is triggered during the shut down process.

First thing to do is to make SURE it is coming from the power supply. Then, double and triple check all connections to make sure everything is fully seated and connected properly.

If you can record the noise and then post a link to the video or audio recording so I can hear it, that would be helpful too.

thanks a lot! found this and I think it's the same

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Pl6guNalHw

 

[Darkbreeze]

I think that IS the relay in the power supply, but it's overly loud. I think there's a good chance there is something wrong with it. It should not be that loud. I'd still want to verify that it's the PSU and not the motherboard, because there are relays on motherboards as well. And they are not all noticeable.

My Z170X-Gaming 5 for example had no audible indications of relay activity. My Hero VIII for the same platform, is clearly audible, but it is nowhere near the loudness of your system AND it can be heard both during the start up and shut down processes, plus the relay in my G2 power supply. All are much quieter than your noise though.